[Aquahullic]

Hello guys I am having a difficult time trying to figure out what speakers to put on what amp and where I should wire my subs too. and how to wire the amps correctly here is what I all have sorry for how long it is but i know someone wants all the info. I don’t want to put any speakers on zone 1 of the head unit as I want all the speakers connected through amp or is there a way to have the amp hooked to that zone each piece I have had description from manufacture

1 1000 watt 4 channel amp (how do I hook the speakers together before the amp and RCAs
General Specifications

Type	Multi-channel Marine Amplifier
Class	A/B
Bridgeable	Yes
Strappable	No
Fuse Rating	120 Amp
MOSFET Type	High Speed MOSFET Power Supply
Damping Factor	150<
Amplifier Width	6.20"
Bass EQ (Boost)	Yes (0‚+6 dB‚+12 dB)
Output Channels	4
RCA Line Output	No
Turn-On Circuit	Soft Turn-on Circuit
Working Voltage	8.5V - 16V
Amplifier Height	2.40"
Amplifier Length	18.75"
Tri-Mode Capable	Yes
Frequency Response	20Hz - 20kHz
Built-in Crossovers	HPF / Full-Range / LPF
RMS Power at 2 Ohms	250 Watts x 4 Channels (14.4v)
RMS Power at 4 Ohms	150 Watts x 4 Channels (14.4v)
Efficiency at 4 Ohms	0.65
Protection Built-in?	Yes - 4-Way (Thermal‚Voltage‚Speaker‚DC)
Power & Ground Inputs	4 Gauge
Signal-to-Noise Ratio	105 dB
Low Level Input (Gain)	6V - 0.2mV
Low Pass Filter (Variable)	50Hz - 500Hz
High Pass Filter (Variable)	20Hz - 5kHz
Power & Protection Indicators	Yes - LED Indicators
RMS Power at 4 Ohms (Bridged)	500 Watts x 2 Channels (14.4v)
Remote Bass Knob & Cable Included	No

Channel 1/2 Crossovers

Low-Pass Filter	50Hz - 500Hz
High-Pass Filter	20Hz - 5kHz
Crossover Multiplier	N/A
Crossover Type (Switchable)	High-Pass Filter / Full-Range / Low-Pass Filter

1 1500 watt mono amp

General Specifications

Type	Monoblock Car Amplifier
Class	D
Bridgeable	No
Strappable	No
Fuse Rating	150 Amp
MOSFET Type	High Speed MOSFET Power Supply
Damping Factor	150<
Amplifier Width	6.20"
Bass EQ (Boost)	Yes (0‚+6 dB‚+12 dB)
Output Channels	1
RCA Line Output	No
Turn-On Circuit	Soft Turn-on Circuit
Working Voltage	8.5V - 16V
Amplifier Height	2.25"
Amplifier Length	14.37"
Subsonic Control	Off - 50Hz
Tri-Mode Capable	No
Frequency Response	20Hz - 250Hz
RMS Power at 1 Ohm	1500 Watts x 1 Channel (14.4v)
Peak Power at 1 Ohm	2300 Watts x 1 Channel (14.4v)
RMS Power at 2 Ohms	930 Watts x 1 Channel (14.4v)
RMS Power at 4 Ohms	550 Watts x 1 Channel (14.4v)
Efficiency at 4 Ohms	0.9
Protection Built-in?	Yes - 4-Way (Thermal‚Voltage‚Speaker‚DC)
Power & Ground Inputs	4 Gauge
Signal-to-Noise Ratio	85 dB
Low Level Input (Gain)	6V - 0.2mV
Low Pass Filter (Variable)	50Hz - 220Hz
Power & Protection Indicators	Yes - LED Indicators
Remote Bass Knob & Cable Included	Yes

2 12 in skar DVC 4 OHM subs underneath back seat facing down
General Specifications

Size	12"
Type	Car Subwoofer
Cone Type	Competition Grade Pressed Paper Cone
RMS Power	500 Watts
Peak Power	800 Watts
Surround Type	Stitched High Roll Foam Surround
Voice Coil Size	2.00"
Magnet Slug Count	Single
Voice Coil Layers	4
Voice Coil Material	Copper (Pure Copper)
Voice Coil Impedance	Dual 2 Ω

T/S Parameters

Bl	15.6 n/a
Fs	35.3 Hz
Re	Dual 2 Ω
Cms	0.12 mm/N
Qes	0.62
Qms	4.42
Qts	0.55
Vas	43.5 L
Nref	0.30%
Xmax	11 mm (one-way)
Sensitvity	86.7 dB

4 6.5in Skar front speakers 2 in the bow and 2 on each side of the driver
General Specifications

Size	6.5"
Type	2-Way Marine Grade Speaker
RMS Power	160 Watts (Pair)
Peak Power	320 Watts (Pair)
Sensitivity	88 dB
Sold As Pair	Yes
Tweeter Size	1"
Magnet Material	Ferrite
Voice Coil Size	1.25"
Frequency Response	57 Hz - 20,000 Hz
Voice Coil Impedance	Single 4 Ω

2 8in Skar speakers located in backseat facing out towards the bow
General Specifications

Size	8"
Type	2-Way Marine Grade Speaker
RMS Power	250 Watts (Pair)
Peak Power	500 Watts (Pair)
Sensitivity	90.5 dB
Sold As Pair	Yes
Tweeter Size	1"
Magnet Material	Ferrite
Voice Coil Size	1.5"
Frequency Response	49 Hz - 20,000 Hz
Voice Coil Impedance	Single 4 Ω

2 pair of Dual tower speakers 6.5in port and starboard sides total 4 speakers both pairs wired to one set of terminals obviously on my wakeboard tower

• Pair Rockville RKL65MBW 6.5” 2-Way 700 Watt Marine Boat Speakers with LED Lights
• CEA Compliant Power Ratings
• Power Rating: 350 Watts Peak /85 Watts RMS Per Speaker
• Total Power: 700 Watts
• Beat sync LED’s flash to the rhythm of the music
• You can select either red or blue color LED’s on the wire harness
• No extra installation for the LED. It gets a power signal through your speaker wire
• The louder the music the more intense the LED’s flash
• Black and White detachable Grills
• Fully Marinized Against Salt & Fresh Water Conditions
• UV treated cone makes this completely Waterproof and rustproof
• Anti-corrosion Stainless Steel Terminals
• Molded ABS plastic for amazing sound and protection from the elements while out on the water
• Polypropylene Formed Cone
• 10 Oz Y30 top of the line magnet supports high power handling
• Rubber Surround
• High quality ferrite magnet
• 1” inch Polymer Tweeter
• Oversized 1” CCAW Kapton Voice Coil
• Pre-installed Stainless-Steel mounting screws included
• Perfect for Marine, Car, ATV and UTV applications
• Impedance: 4-Ohm
• Frequency Response: 35Hz - 20KHz
• Sound Pressure Level: 90dB @ 1w/1m
• Total Diameter: 7.3”
• Cutout Diameter: 5.6”
• Total Height: 3.86”
• Mounting Depth: 2.56
  
  also have 2 tweeters CT haven’t placed them yet or if I should?

Quick Facts:
RMS Power:	90 Watts (Pair)
MAX Power:	180 Watts (Pair)
Speaker Type:	4" Aluminum Super Tweeter
Voice Coil Configuration:	Single 4-Ohm

and my head unit has 4 separate zones it’s a Rockville RGHR45

• Rockville RGHR45 Weather Resistant Gauge-Hole Digital Media Receiver with 4 Zones that each have independent volume control
• Includes wired remote with the ability to control the volume in each zone
• 3” TFT color display makes it easy to navigate
• Built in Bluetooth/USB/AM/FM playback
• Fits into a standard Gauge-Hole (Tachometer) Opening
• Built-in 72 x 4 Watt Peak high powered amplifier (28 x 4 RMS)
• 3 pairs of pre-amp outputs
• 4 zones each with volume control (zone 1 = built in amplifier, zone 2 and 3 are RCA outputs, and zone 4 is the sub output)
• Built in EQ with preset EQ curves (Pop, Classic, Rock, Jazz, Beat, Flat)
• IP66 Waterproof Certification (Tested to withstand the elements)
• USB Input to play back audio files store on a USB thumb drive or any other USB device
• USB plays video
• RCA A/V input to play back a video source
• Rear camera input
• RCA Aux Input
• AM/FM Radio Built In with 18 FM and 12 AM presets + US and European tuning
• Bluetooth built in to stream audio from any Bluetooth enabled device
• USB Input Charges Your Phone
• Big easy to use buttons
• Back-lit 3 inch TFT display
• IP66 waterproof level
• meet ASTM B117 and ASTM D4329 standards
• Humiseal coated PCB board for waterproofing and protection from the elements
• Required cutout: 2.99" (diameter) x 4.96" (depth) x 4.53” (top plate diameter)
• 6.24 inch depth included the top plate
• USB is 500mA and 5V and supports 16GB max
• Specs of the built in amplifier
• TDA7851L quadbridge power amplifier
• 4 x 72 watts peak @ 2 ohm
• 4 x 48 watts peak @ 4 ohms
• Highly efficient even when running at 2 ohms!
• Low distortion even at top volume
• 
  also I have a EQ I have no clue how to hook this up
• General Specifications
  

  THD	0.000005
  Type	Equalizer
  Output	6-Channel RCA Output (Front, Rear, and Subwoofer)
  DIN Size	1/2 DIN
  AUX Input	RCA Auxiliary Input with Variable Gaine Adjustment w/ Aux Input Selectable Switch
  Main Input	Balanced RCA Main Input
  EQ Dimensions	7.00" W x 4.50" D x 1.00" H
  Volume Controls	Master & Subwoofer
  Operating Voltage	11v - 15v
  Built-In Line Driver	Yes
  Signal-to-Noise Ratio	100 dB
  Max RCA Output Voltage	7 Volts
  Lowpass Frequency Switch	60Hz / 120 Hz
  Number of Frequency Bands	7
  Adjustable Frequency Bands	50Hz, 125Hz, 320Hz, 750Hz, 2.2kHz, 6kHz, 16kHz
  Ground Loop Isolation Circuit	Yes
  Installation Hardware Included	Yes
  Frequency Bands Adjustment Range	-12 dB to +12 dB

• 
  

 

[Aquahullic]

Or do I put the tweeters on the head unit zone 1 as zone one is hard wired to the head units wiring harness. And zone 2 and 3 have RCA red and white and then zone 4 is a subwoofer zone with only one RCA coming out??? I’m really having a hard time on what to do with all the speaker wires do I connect sets of speakers before hooking them into amp and I know someone on here will know exactly what should be the best way to do this

 

[ShuManChu]

Alright, I'll take a stab at this. First off, you're going to need more amps if you want to send enough power to all your speakers. Another 4 channel amp to power your tower speakers and Tweeters.

Not using Equalizer:

Amp 1, 1000W, 4ch
Zone 1 RCA -> Ch1 - Bow + Driver left 6.5" speakers wired in parallel - 250W at 2ohm - 125W to each speaker
Zone 1 RCA -> Ch2 - Bow + Driver right 6.5" speakers wired in parallel - 250W at 2ohm - 125W to each speaker
Zone 1 RCA -> Ch3 - Back seat left 6.5" speaker - 150W at 4ohm
Zone 1 RCA -> Ch4 - Back seat right 6.5" speaker - 150W at 4ohm

Amp 2, ????W, 4ch (this is the one you have to buy)
Zone 1 RCA -> Ch1 - Tweeter left speaker - 90W at 4ohm
Zone 1 RCA -> Ch2 - Tweeter right speaker - 90W at 4ohm
Zone 2 RCA -> Ch3 - Tower left 6.5" pair wired in parallel - 170W at 2ohm - 85W to each speaker
Zone 2 RCA -> Ch4 - Tower left 6.5" pair wired in parallel - 170W at 2ohm - 85W to each speaker

Amp 3, 1500W, 1ch
Zone 3 RCA -> Ch1 - Subwoofer left + right speakers configured for 4 ohm wired in parallel - 930W at 2ohm - 465W each

Do not use Zone 1 on the head unit.

If you want to use the equalizer, then just feed Zone2 from your head unit to it's input, then the equalizer "front" goes where it says "Zone 1" above, "rear" goes where it says "Zone 2" above, and "sub" goes where it says "Zone 3" above. I see the equalizer as unnecessary given your head unit allows you to have the same level of control. If the equalizer is easier to operate than navigating the menus on the head unit, then use it. If not, just leave it out.

With this configuration, you wont have a traditional Front/rear fade control, instead Front/rear fade will control cabin/tower. This way you can turn up or down the boat speakers relative to the tower speakers and vice versa. Normal front/rear fade is kinda useless in a boat.

FYI you will need a RCA Y splitter and two RCA cables to be able to send Zone 1 (or Front if using equalizer) to two different Amp's inputs.
On Amp 2, you will want to get one that allows you to set the crossover to high pass filter for the tweeters.