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Discussion Starter #181
Got the driver door wrapped up last night. Speakers wired, CCF'd, MLV'd. Had to bear hug the door panel with the window down to get it to snap back and bolt in place. Door feels like a concrete wall. Heavy and solid as hell. Last time I took the panel off, there was a small rattle that I could not pin point. Well, that's gone now and the door is dead silent.



Didn't get a pic of the MLV, too much of a hassle trying to get it to stick to the door while trying to get the panel back on.

Wired the speaker for 8 ohms. Amp does 460 @ 4 bridged, so I figure roughly half that at 8 should be plenty enough juice.



Terrible night pic of the tweeter in place. I'll snap more in daylight.





Started on the passenger door and to my surprise... The Fu***** G** d*** piece of S*** a** f****** b**** of a plug was identical to the driver side, even though there's only 2 buttons on the door. Wtf...

I little more informed this time around, I skinned the tech flex off before trying to pass it through. Here's what I'm dealing with.

With the kick panel removed, the white box in the upper portion is covering the hole to get the wires out the car


Using my fat fingers, had to snake it up between the dash and the wall if he jeep




A few cuts and curse words later they're out! Now to get them through the rubber boot. Here's what I got to work with



With the tech flex, the next pic is not possible...








Didn't get any more pics but basically got the wires through and everything back in place. Hopefully tonight I will be able to get the wires to the speakers and ccf/MLV the door and be ready for the next step.
 

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This is really becoming a special build. You're really making me consider buying a Jeep as I love everything about this. Would love to hear what it sounds like, but I don't think I'm gonna be in the Orleans area anytime in the near future LOL.
 

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Discussion Starter #183
This is really becoming a special build. You're really making me consider buying a Jeep as I love everything about this. Would love to hear what it sounds like, but I don't think I'm gonna be in the Orleans area anytime in the near future LOL.

Thanks bud!

I love this vehicle. Very nice quiet comfortable ride from the factory. And besides the damn plugs that go into the doors, it's almost like Chrysler had us audio guys in mind when building the jeep. There's tons of room along the sides under the carpet where the wires run. (Fit 10 channels of RCA, 3 tech flexed 12ga runs and 7 - 16ga runs for the signal to DSP all on one side with no problem getting panels back on). Plus the huge hole in the back floor for subs and amps. The doors are nearly competently sealed. And the sail panels were designed specifically for Audiofrog GB10s. lol
 

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With the tech flex, the next pic is not possible...









Didn't get any more pics but basically got the wires through and everything back in place. Hopefully tonight I will be able to get the wires to the speakers and ccf/MLV the door and be ready for the next step.
I have the exact same wire in 12 gauge and am planning out my build on 2015 Durango. I've been wondering if I should step down the size and this is very helpful. Thanks for sharing the pics.

Great work so far! Those tweeters look great in the stock location and the chrome accents match the dash trim perfectly.
 

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I have the exact same wire in 12 gauge and am planning out my build on 2015 Durango. I've been wondering if I should step down the size and this is very helpful. Thanks for sharing the pics.

Great work so far! Those tweeters look great in the stock location and the chrome accents match the dash trim perfectly.
I would say 12 gauge is rampant unnecessary overkill, and is causing much more of an issue than the value it adds. But I can tell that use of sheathed wiring looks smart, in these doors. I mean I typically use sheathed Monoprice all the time (in varying sizes) for all my builds, but in these doors it looks like a particularly good idea to use a sheath to protect them through these sharp spots. So, either 16 gauge 4 conductor for me, or I might go with 16 gauge 2 conductor for the tweeter and 14 gauge 2 conductor for the woofer. Noteven remotely audibly detectable either way.

edit: Haven't worked on a Molex-type door in a while. The Vette that's currently being worked on had some of the easiest doors ever, and prior to that its all been working around the Molex instead of through it.
 

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Those are some big ass connectors lol. And wire! Interesting to see you going to 8 ohm. While I understand ohms I've never grasped the reason to go 8 over 4 when it comes to Sq. Any thoughts on that?

Nice to see more progress. Jealous as heck that you are wearing shorts in the one pic. ;)
 

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Discussion Starter #187
I can't lie, 12ga is overkill for sure but it's what I got so it's gotta work. If I had to start over id run some 12 ga and keep it tech flexed.


As for running 8 ohm...
The TMs are dual 4 ohm so 2 and 8 ohm are my options.

The GZ amp is rated...
110 X 4 @ 4 ohm
190 X 4 @ 2 ohm
460 X 2 @ 4 ohm bridged.
230(ish) X 2 @ 8 ohm bridged.( my assumption, not listed in specs)

From my understanding, which could be way off, amps run cooler or more efficient at higher ohms. So I figured running 8 ohms bridged would be the best power to efficiency ratio. I ran my zed leviathan to my 3-MKIV @ 8 ohms bridged per channel and that thing never broke a sweat.

What I am curious about is....does 200 watts @ 2 ohm and 200 watts @ 8 ohm put the same stress on the amp? The amp is producing 200 watts either way so it shouldn't matter. So what I'm doing may be putting the amp under more stress, which is to be expected being that it's producing more power.
 

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Discussion Starter #188
Nice to see more progress. Jealous as heck that you are wearing shorts in the one pic. ;)


If I took that pic 2 days ago it was 30'degrees and I would be in 4 layers of clothes. (Yea, that's really really cold for us, we're pussies leave us alone) Last night, 74 degrees with a cool brees. Welcome to south lowsyana.
 

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Discussion Starter #189
Better shot of the tweeters. They're maybe 30 degree off axis. We'll see how it works out.

Pic taken by my head to show how they're aimed...





 

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Not yet, eBay is the best price so far. Once I get this thing making noise, that will be my next venture.








Yea! Wtf is this shit? Leave me alone.

And I meant match visibly..... Until I find a set of GB60s in the classifieds
Uuh hmmm. Your wish was just granted check the classifieds. Lol.. :laugh:
 

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Discussion Starter #192
I see what you did there.



Uuh hmmm. Your wish was just granted check the classifieds. Lol.. :laugh:

I saw that. Was like no fkn way....Lolololo. He actually posted those a couple m.onths ago for $450.

Ima hold out a little bit. Wanna get everything going and get it tuned up and go from there. Also I don't wanna have to take those door panels off and try to put them back on again. PITA! With the ccf and MLV on there.

I got the passenger side finished tonight. Getting close!!

 

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Great looking build Brad. I agree the GB10 looks absolutely perfect in your Jeep.

I will be following your build as I just started procuring equipment to put a system of my own together. I plan to do an A-pillar install of a small mid and tweet and bought the GB25 last week when it popped up in the classifieds. I also ordered some TM65s for my build and will use those in the doors if I don't decide to put some beefier midbasses or subs in the kick panels like Erinh is doing. Now I just need to watch for some GB10s to show up in the classifieds.

Your interest in the GB60 piqued my interest as well so I decided to model the TM65 against the GB60 to see if there is much difference. I haven't heard either so don't have an opinion but it is possible there wouldn't be much difference when used in such a limited pass band. But I wanted to see what the low end on each looked like in simulation and this is what I came up with using WinISD. For the simulation, I gave each speaker 150w and a 60 l sealed "enclosure" to simulate IB; the 60 l being 10 x VAS for the GB60. At least from a simulation viewpoint, doesn't look like there is much difference. I could see the potential for a greater difference if playing up to 2,000 Hz but I wonder if there would be that much sonic difference when mating up to the GB25 at 500/600 Hz.

 

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Discussion Starter #194
Great looking build Brad. I agree the GB10 looks absolutely perfect in your Jeep.



I will be following your build as I just started procuring equipment to put a system of my own together. I plan to do an A-pillar install of a small mid and tweet and bought the GB25 last week when it popped up in the classifieds. I also ordered some TM65s for my build and will use those in the doors if I don't decide to put some beefier midbasses or subs in the kick panels like Erinh is doing. Now I just need to watch for some GB10s to show up in the classifieds.



Your interest in the GB60 piqued my interest as well so I decided to model the TM65 against the GB60 to see if there is much difference. I haven't heard either so don't have an opinion but it is possible there wouldn't be much difference when used in such a limited pass band. But I wanted to see what the low end on each looked like in simulation and this is what I came up with using WinISD. For the simulation, I gave each speaker 150w and a 60 l sealed "enclosure" to simulate IB; the 60 l being 10 x VAS for the GB60. At least from a simulation viewpoint, doesn't look like there is much difference. I could see the potential for a greater difference if playing up to 2,000 Hz but I wonder if there would be that much sonic difference when mating up to the GB25 at 500/600 Hz.

Good deal dude. For the price difference I can't see there being THAT much of an improvement. I'd like to see some real world frequency response graphs between the two. Hell I just can't wait to see some actual power on the TMs.

I threw the GB25s on my desktop to break em in/test them out.



Not the prettiest but it works. They're replacing a pair of bamboo come tang bands which I think sounded very nice. Running off a lepai 20 watt amp. I'll come back with some initial impressions once I get some time with them.
 

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Discussion Starter #195
10 speakers....38 wires



Please be right...



Now I just gotta plug the other ends to the DSP and plug in amps. Hoping to find time in the next couple days.
 

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OOh you are bringing back some memories for sure, Brad. Here's what I had to do to hook a Flex up to an MS-8.




Sometimes that part takes all damn day! I enjoy those moments but it sucks when you're, oh, like 24 wire connections in and you realize that you're only about 1/2 way done. There's a sense of dread that only the promise of some sound coming out of speakers can overcome.


10 speakers....38 wires



Please be right...



Now I just gotta plug the other ends to the DSP and plug in amps. Hoping to find time in the next couple days.
 

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Discussion Starter #197
Yea PITA, u feel my pain. I actually started making a molex connector but wasn't happy with the connections. The pins kept backing out so I ditched the idea

 

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Discussion Starter #198
Earlier I mentioned the huge valleys on the sides of the jeep. This is what's running along the passenger side. Door sil goes back on with no problem

 

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Seems like a lot of wasted space to most. Leave it to the DIYMA crowd to fill that void! (That's what she said...)
 

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Fuuuuck that!

Yea PITA, u feel my pain. I actually started making a molex connector but wasn't happy with the connections. The pins kept backing out so I ditched the idea


Making connectors is crazy work.

However if you do ever NEED to make one, consider working with Delphi Weatherpack kits. They sell whole complete kits on Amazon, and they are phenomenal...as good as it gets from terminal connections that need to be removable. Here's one Robot Check
 
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