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Discussion Starter #22
^^^ No experience with those, but looking at the specs, they are rated at only 20w and 80db so they MIGHT have trouble keeping up with the rest of your system if it is anything like the awesome one that you built in your Ram. Anyway, while much more spend, I would suggest looking at he new Audible Physics AR2.6 full range driver-- Pics and specs on this page--

https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.861686433919789.1073741829.810328909055542&type=3

Very interesting. Price wasn't the concern as much as size/performance. I was just wondering if them being on directly on axis in a smaller vehicle could over come the poor efficiency .... I was also looking at the audiofrog GB25. But that AP 2.6 looks mighty fine... Who can I talk to about those? Any idea who's a dealer for them on the forum?
 

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Very interesting. Price wasn't the concern as much as size/performance. I was just wondering if them being on directly on axis in a smaller vehicle could over come the poor efficiency .... I was also looking at the audiofrog GB25. But that AP 2.6 looks mighty fine... Who can I talk to about those? Any idea who's a dealer for them on the forum?
Member Rishi is the owner/designer of AP and is very accessible to end users….you can pm him directly for info. That being said, member papasin has long term use experience and relation with AP and has been helpful providing me with info about the NZ3 and NZ3AlBE that I own. I would contact either of them.
 

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The GZUA 2.250SQ will power it. Whenever I get it. Does 1200 @ 2ohm.

I'm pretty excited about the TMs. The jeep door speaker location is knee height or a little higher compared to down by the ankles like the RAM. I think that should help. Although they still have some big shoes to fill.
Make sure that you deaden the crap out of the window switches. They buzz like crazy. Also there is much more space to be had if you lose thr plastic spare tire thing. See my build for pics. I have a 13w7 ported with a dsp pro, 300 /2 times 3 and a 1000/1 with two distribution blocks all stuffed back there.I still have plenty of room. Also theres a huge area where the factory sub goes too.

Any questions please feel free to ask but response may be slow since I am currently deployed outside the US right now. I would love to know how much deadening you use since I will be doing a full reinstall with a crapload of deadening when I return home.
 

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Guess I finally have enough pieces of the puzzle to start a log for my 2014 Jeep Grand Cherokee Limited....


Those of you that followed my RAM build know that It was nearly complete until it met its fate in the form of a Mini Cooper.
2012 Ram crew cab sport build... - Car Audio | DiyMobileAudio.com | Car Stereo Forum


A few days after that mishap, my first daughter was born so I opted for a more family friendly vehicle, which would need a more "family friendly" system. Therefore the old gear was sold or traded in order to down size a bit. The vehicle will be used a decent amount by the wife when I'm working and those of you with kids know, they require A LOT of crap just for a simple trip to the store. So This build can take up about zero of the available cargo area. Now on to the good stuff.



The victim....

Was a little too grocery getter-ish at first so I dropped it 2" and put some jeep SRT8 wheels on it.



Helix DSP pro
ground zero GZUA 4.150SQ X 2
Ground zero GZUA 2.250SQ (coming soon)
Audio frog GB12 subwoofer
SI TM65 mids
Scanspeak ring radiators.
A lot of deadener

The unknown....


-Mid range for 3 way front. If I decide to take that route.
-5-1/4" for rear fill.
-my main concern, is how to deal with the oem head unit signal. The factory amp applies eq and time alignment so I'm unsure how that will affect things if I feed it directly to the helix. Wondering if I need a clean sweep or something similar to clean it up before the signal goes to the DSP?? May just hook it up as is and see what happens. Any suggestions on this?


The plan....

After I deaden, mlv, and ccf the crap out of everything, I plan to use the factory locations for the front mid and tweeter. Sail panel and door. If I do 3 way, I will build another set of pillars. I will replace the spare tire with a 12v compressor and plug kit and utilize the giant spare tire well for sub and amps.... Simplicity in sound style. I will make it to where the floor can be put back in when I need to throw all the baby crap back there.

Stay tuned...
The factry amp signal will be a pain in the butt. I found that the easiest way to deal with it was to forget doing any signal cleaning. It does weird things that cause phase issues when you try to signal sum the front channels. I would go to a 3way and use the factory crossover points or get the factory signal before the amp but you lose volume control. You would have to use the helix director for volume control.

I opted in the end to use an aftermarket head unit. You are stuck with your factory head unit though.

See my driiive link below for a graph of my factory signal. Yours will be a little different but not too far off. I would test it though. Maybe yours has a full range front with no 3 way. Mine is a factory 3 way with 6x9 mb, 3inch mr and a tweeter.

Also be prepared to wire up resistors to fool the factory amps into thinking that speakers are still hooked up. The mosconi 6to8v8 that I used previously did not need them but the helix does not have the resistors built in so the factory amp might mute the channels after the speakers are disconnected to feed the helix.

Good luck sir and nice ride
 

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Discussion Starter #29
Make sure that you deaden the crap out of the window switches. They buzz like crazy. Also there is much more space to be had if you lose thr plastic spare tire thing. See my build for pics. I have a 13w7 ported with a dsp pro, 300 /2 times 3 and a 1000/1 with two distribution blocks all stuffed back there.I still have plenty of room. Also theres a huge area where the factory sub goes too.



Any questions please feel free to ask but response may be slow since I am currently deployed outside the US right now. I would love to know how much deadening you use since I will be doing a full reinstall with a crapload of deadening when I return home.

Yessir, I have checked out your build. I admire your not give a fuckness of cutting the floor out of a $65k vehicle. Lol love your ride.

I appreciate all the info, there's so mush integrated in these things, your suggestions are priceless. I will keep tabs on the deadening I do. I even plan on RTAing the interior before and after to see if all the effort is worth the reward.

I've convinced myself to run 3 way, so I'll prob just get it all in place and playing, then determine how I address the oem signal issues after that. I'd like to eventually go optical and use the director, but that's a ways down the road.


I also said screw the pillar defrost vent, I'd rather the space back there and after reading Erinh's test results, I think I like the scan speak 10f because of its shallow depth and great off axis response. Price is nice too...

https://www.madisoundspeakerstore.com/approx-4-fullrange/scanspeak-discovery-10f/8414g-10-4-full-range/
 

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Check out soundman's video. He does a 2014 Jeep grand Cherokee install. He talks about the same thing regarding the signal issues.

Here is the link
"https://youtu.be/TBqxq033Eus"]https://youtu.be/TBqxq033Eus

Either cut and paste it or Google it. Site wouldnt let me post the link cause i dont have 5 post yet. Lol
 

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Discussion Starter #33
Check out soundman's video. He does a 2014 Jeep grand Cherokee install. He talks about the same thing regarding the signal issues.

Here is the link
"https://youtu.be/TBqxq033Eus"]https://youtu.be/TBqxq033Eus

Either cut and paste it or Google it. Site wouldnt let me post the link cause i dont have 5 post yet. Lol
Awesome! My first idea was to do a similar sub enclosure but I'm in no mood to do that much fiberglassing at this point. Dunno how 3 month olds and fiberglass fumes react to each other yet.

Def gonna see how they handled the oem signal. Thanks for the link



Brad I'm pretty sure you know, but just want to mention it. There is another scan 10F.
https://www.madisoundspeakerstore.com/approx-4-midrange/scanspeak-discovery-10f/4424g-4-midrange-4-ohm/
Just incase you want to compare the 2 and decide.
I apologize if you are already aware of this.


Yessir..... That was my first choice until I saw this...
http://medleysmusings.com/10f8414g10/

The smaller neo magnet will make it a bit easier to stuff in the pillar. And it's great off axis response makes it the winner for me.
 

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Awesome! My first idea was to do a similar sub enclosure but I'm in no mood to do that much fiberglassing at this point. Dunno how 3 month olds and fiberglass fumes react to each other yet.

Def gonna see how they handled the oem signal. Thanks for the link







Yessir..... That was my first choice until I saw this...
http://medleysmusings.com/10f8414g10/

The smaller neo magnet will make it a bit easier to stuff in the pillar. And it's great off axis response makes it the winner for me.
I would not want fiberglass near that baby. I switched to epoxy resins due to smell but I still do not want my 3 year old exposed to it.

You can literally do all mdf though with the layout of the cargo area. It is quite ideal.there is enough space to fit a ton of gear under that floor. I will say that the load floor soaks up a noticeable amount of bass though due to its flimsyness. I disassembled mine to remove the factory fabric and made a heavier mdf replacement with a vent and reused the fabric. It is non backed carpet so the sound can travel through.

I dont know if you knew it but by removing the factory spare you freed up about 70ish pounds. The factory sub is like 10 pounds. You will probably end up dropping a little weight in the rear by doing this setup. I removed my resonators thereby dropping damn near 120 pounds before putting my setup in. With everything, I am probably only 20 pounds heavier than stock. Not bad huh? I am going to switch amps and drop more weight. Then i will redo my enclosure to get even lighter.

Ok....enough senseless babble.....get to work....
 

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Subbing, I have a 15 Durango R/T and will definitely need the inspiration! Our cargo area (devoid of a spare) is definitely smaller though.

I wonder if an MS-8 will work without needing a resistor bank.
 

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Great to see you starting your build on the new ride. That summing is going to be interesting, interested to see how it ends up.



Really?! Damn!
Yes sir. :blush:
 

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Discussion Starter #38
Finally feel like I did something worth while...

I made these baffles and sprayed them with bed under coating. And crossed my fingers that they fit



Pulled the factory speaker and compared the depth of the baffle. And like magic....



The shiny virgin door innards...



Picked up a pack of this for cheap a while back. Decent stuff.



Sorry for the crappy pics but u get the idea...





About 12 sq ft later.... Yea over kill, dnc... The vault door is ready for the baffles and speakers. For the time being Im just running them on factory amp power.






Now that's done, next comes the passenger side. I'll save any real impressions until I have both the TM65s in and they are broken in. But I must say I'm excited about the potential I see in them. Can't wait to dump about 200 watts on them.




Another decision I made is that I will build my own remote for the helix with volume and bass knob. Found the schematics so won't be very difficult, I hope, and will save me about $250. I think Ima go the HEC BT module route or get a nice hifi media player with optical out (fiio x5 or similar) for critical listening and also use oem signal when I just need radio or something.
 

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Finally feel like I did something worth while...

I made these baffles and sprayed them with bed under coating. And crossed my fingers that they fit


Now that's done, next comes the passenger side. I'll save any real impressions until I have both the TM65s in and they are broken in. But I must say I'm excited about the potential I see in them. Can't wait to dump about 200 watts on them.




Another decision I made is that I will build my own remote for the helix with volume and bass knob. Found the schematics so won't be very difficult, I hope, and will save me about $250. I think Ima go the HEC BT module route or get a nice hifi media player with optical out (fiio x5 or similar) for critical listening and also use oem signal when I just need radio or something.
Looks great Brad! The GC door card looks to be more sealed (less holes) than the Rams, right?
 

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Discussion Starter #40
Looks great Brad! The GC door card looks to be more sealed (less holes) than the Rams, right?

Yes! Besides the speaker there are actually no holes in the door. There is one panel that opens up, that I used to help get the deadener inside the door. Then covered it in deadener after

ImageUploadedByTapatalk1445527156.908487.jpg
 
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