^^^ No experience with those, but looking at the specs, they are rated at only 20w and 80db so they MIGHT have trouble keeping up with the rest of your system if it is anything like the awesome one that you built in your Ram. Anyway, while much more spend, I would suggest looking at he new Audible Physics AR2.6 full range driver-- Pics and specs on this page--
Member Rishi is the owner/designer of AP and is very accessible to end users….you can pm him directly for info. That being said, member papasin has long term use experience and relation with AP and has been helpful providing me with info about the NZ3 and NZ3AlBE that I own. I would contact either of them.Very interesting. Price wasn't the concern as much as size/performance. I was just wondering if them being on directly on axis in a smaller vehicle could over come the poor efficiency .... I was also looking at the audiofrog GB25. But that AP 2.6 looks mighty fine... Who can I talk to about those? Any idea who's a dealer for them on the forum?
Make sure that you deaden the crap out of the window switches. They buzz like crazy. Also there is much more space to be had if you lose thr plastic spare tire thing. See my build for pics. I have a 13w7 ported with a dsp pro, 300 /2 times 3 and a 1000/1 with two distribution blocks all stuffed back there.I still have plenty of room. Also theres a huge area where the factory sub goes too.The GZUA 2.250SQ will power it. Whenever I get it. Does 1200 @ 2ohm.
I'm pretty excited about the TMs. The jeep door speaker location is knee height or a little higher compared to down by the ankles like the RAM. I think that should help. Although they still have some big shoes to fill.
The factry amp signal will be a pain in the butt. I found that the easiest way to deal with it was to forget doing any signal cleaning. It does weird things that cause phase issues when you try to signal sum the front channels. I would go to a 3way and use the factory crossover points or get the factory signal before the amp but you lose volume control. You would have to use the helix director for volume control.Guess I finally have enough pieces of the puzzle to start a log for my 2014 Jeep Grand Cherokee Limited....
Those of you that followed my RAM build know that It was nearly complete until it met its fate in the form of a Mini Cooper.
2012 Ram crew cab sport build... - Car Audio | DiyMobileAudio.com | Car Stereo Forum
A few days after that mishap, my first daughter was born so I opted for a more family friendly vehicle, which would need a more "family friendly" system. Therefore the old gear was sold or traded in order to down size a bit. The vehicle will be used a decent amount by the wife when I'm working and those of you with kids know, they require A LOT of crap just for a simple trip to the store. So This build can take up about zero of the available cargo area. Now on to the good stuff.
Was a little too grocery getter-ish at first so I dropped it 2" and put some jeep SRT8 wheels on it.
Helix DSP pro
ground zero GZUA 4.150SQ X 2
Ground zero GZUA 2.250SQ (coming soon)
Audio frog GB12 subwoofer
SI TM65 mids
Scanspeak ring radiators.
A lot of deadener
-Mid range for 3 way front. If I decide to take that route.
-5-1/4" for rear fill.
-my main concern, is how to deal with the oem head unit signal. The factory amp applies eq and time alignment so I'm unsure how that will affect things if I feed it directly to the helix. Wondering if I need a clean sweep or something similar to clean it up before the signal goes to the DSP?? May just hook it up as is and see what happens. Any suggestions on this?
After I deaden, mlv, and ccf the crap out of everything, I plan to use the factory locations for the front mid and tweeter. Sail panel and door. If I do 3 way, I will build another set of pillars. I will replace the spare tire with a 12v compressor and plug kit and utilize the giant spare tire well for sub and amps.... Simplicity in sound style. I will make it to where the floor can be put back in when I need to throw all the baby crap back there.
Make sure that you deaden the crap out of the window switches. They buzz like crazy. Also there is much more space to be had if you lose thr plastic spare tire thing. See my build for pics. I have a 13w7 ported with a dsp pro, 300 /2 times 3 and a 1000/1 with two distribution blocks all stuffed back there.I still have plenty of room. Also theres a huge area where the factory sub goes too.
Any questions please feel free to ask but response may be slow since I am currently deployed outside the US right now. I would love to know how much deadening you use since I will be doing a full reinstall with a crapload of deadening when I return home.
Awesome! My first idea was to do a similar sub enclosure but I'm in no mood to do that much fiberglassing at this point. Dunno how 3 month olds and fiberglass fumes react to each other yet.Check out soundman's video. He does a 2014 Jeep grand Cherokee install. He talks about the same thing regarding the signal issues.
Here is the link
Either cut and paste it or Google it. Site wouldnt let me post the link cause i dont have 5 post yet. Lol
Brad I'm pretty sure you know, but just want to mention it. There is another scan 10F.
Just incase you want to compare the 2 and decide.
I apologize if you are already aware of this.
I would not want fiberglass near that baby. I switched to epoxy resins due to smell but I still do not want my 3 year old exposed to it.Awesome! My first idea was to do a similar sub enclosure but I'm in no mood to do that much fiberglassing at this point. Dunno how 3 month olds and fiberglass fumes react to each other yet.
Def gonna see how they handled the oem signal. Thanks for the link
Yessir..... That was my first choice until I saw this...
The smaller neo magnet will make it a bit easier to stuff in the pillar. And it's great off axis response makes it the winner for me.
Looks great Brad! The GC door card looks to be more sealed (less holes) than the Rams, right?Finally feel like I did something worth while...
I made these baffles and sprayed them with bed under coating. And crossed my fingers that they fit
Now that's done, next comes the passenger side. I'll save any real impressions until I have both the TM65s in and they are broken in. But I must say I'm excited about the potential I see in them. Can't wait to dump about 200 watts on them.
Another decision I made is that I will build my own remote for the helix with volume and bass knob. Found the schematics so won't be very difficult, I hope, and will save me about $250. I think Ima go the HEC BT module route or get a nice hifi media player with optical out (fiio x5 or similar) for critical listening and also use oem signal when I just need radio or something.
Looks great Brad! The GC door card looks to be more sealed (less holes) than the Rams, right?