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Discussion Starter #1
I’m a new member here at DIYMA but not necessarily new to car audio. I was just more so in the early/mid ‘90s through the early 2000s. For the sake of context I’ll provide a rundown of my current setup when I got the itch and waded back into the scene about a year ago. Vehicle is a 2006 Honda Accord EX-L V6 Coupe. The only gear that I had leftover from my last install were 3 JL amps; Slash 300/4 V1, Slash 500/1 V2 and an e2150. All are in excellent condition with original boxes, paperwork and DOB.

For my HU I purchased a Pioneer DEH-80prs, a set of Image Dynamics CXS64 V2 comps for my front stage and a pair of ID69s for rear fill (they were cheap so just bot em) subwoofer is a 10” Eclipse aluminum 88100 DVC based on the TC Sounds Motor which is excellent condition. (I owe this gem of a find to my installer.) Sub is currently NOT installed yet as my installer is currently building a custom fiberglass box for it but the 500/1 V2 is and is patiently waiting for her ?

Doors, rear deck lid and trunk are all sound deadened, etc. The Slash 300/4 is running the front comps passive along with the rear fill. A 4 gauge OFC amp kit is providing the wiring.

Forgive me for the very long segue to my question/dilemma. I just thought it would be useful information to the current setup and thus my question. Now I have to start by saying there is nothing wrong with the 300/4 as the sound coming out of the CXS64s are excellent with the 300/4. I was very impressed with how good they are within their price range. I can crank the volume and they stay crystal clear and I really like the XS28 tweets and the mids provide plenty of midrange punch. However, I can’t help but feel as though they are BEGGING for more power. So I was thinking of ditching the rear fill, picking up some Y adapters and shooting all the juice to the comps (150 watts per side obviously) Now it goes without saying that this is the most economical way of going about this BUT I cannot keeps my eyes off the Zapco Z-150.2 SP. it looks like it’s built like a tank just like the slash. Has a ducted air fan cooling system and at 4ohms is 2X165 watts.

Again, I really do apologize for the extremely long post and honestly feel a bit embarrassed & crazy writing it. Am I completely out of my mind even thinking about the Zapco in this entire equation?

I would appreciate ANY feedback, suggestions, asking any additional questions, etc., even
calling me crazy! Hahaha! I’m asking because I know a lot of member on this forum are FAR more knowledgeable than myself and perhaps someone will even suggest something that I haven’t even thought of and help point put me on a ‘better’ path I’m currently on.

For those of you who even read this far I’m incredibly grateful and appreciative. I’m certainly looking forward to your thoughts and suggestions!

Jamie
 

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I don't see much benefit it bridging the amp. If you have the extra channels from ditching the rears, you might as well, but it isn't going to do a whole lot. Doubling the power will only give you up to 3dB more output, that's it. Having the extra power could potentially give you a bit more low end output, but with a typical HPF on the mids, and after adding a sub, it isn't going to make much difference. There's no reason not to bridge the amp, if you open up the extra channels, but the difference won't be significant all, all the extra power will do is give the ability for 3 more dB, so unless you're already reaching the amp's limits, there wont be a change.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Gijoe, thank you for taking the time to share your thoughts. I agree that even bridging the amp to send the extra juice to the comps won’t make a huge difference. However, I thought it would be enough to notice. I know it’s certainly not a scenario where just because I’m doubling the power, the output won’t be anything dramatic but enough to notice, particularly at higher volumes. I also agree that if I’m gonna free up 2 channels by ditching the rear fill I may as well bridge it essentially as a “why not? I may as well.” Again, I appreciate the feedback. Would you happen to have any other suggestions regardless of what part of the system it may be as if you were in my situation? I’m not easily offended so anything good, bad or indifferent would still be appreciated, thanks!
 

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Adding power to a speaker only increases its SPL potential. Unless you are already maxing out the amp, bridging it to double the power won't make a difference. If you are maxing it out, then you'll get 3dB more output, that's it. The only way adding more power could change the frequency response is if you need the extra power for the low frequencies, it's possible in certain situations to get better low frequency response, but that will only happen with the amp is pushed to it's limits, and the extra power allows for 3dB more output. Realistically, bridging the amp won't make a noticeable difference at all, but again, if the channels are going to waste, you might as well use them.

Since you have the ability to run active, that's going to give you a much more noticeable improvement to your sound quality than adding a bit more power. Having independent control over the mids and tweeters will do much more good than doubling the power. I'd ditch the rear speakers, and use all for channels to the components, then spend a little time with the 80PRS in Network mode dialing things in.
 

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300/4 is a GREAT amp. No need to consider an upgrade to the zapco, and it would only take 5 minutes to bridge it to the comps and see how you liked it.

That being said...you could always run the ID comps active with 4 channels of the 300/4. :)
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Gijoe, that’s exactly the plan. Once everything is installed we’re going switch to Network Mode and tweak everything from there given the many advanced features and capabilities. When initially planning my build the 80prs was first on the list aside from the amps of course given that I still had them from my previous build.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
MiniSQ, I would absolutely agree that the 300/4 is a fantastic amp. After the feedback from you and gijoe I’m gonna bridge the amp and ditch the tears. They do exactly what they say they do and in my opinion they do it flawlessly. They are built like tanks and sexy as hell IMO plus I run my gear hard and they NEVER let me down. I’m eagerly waiting how the 500/1 and Eclipse Aluminum 88100 DVC sound once the custom fiberglass box is finished! I appreciate your feedback miniSQ!
 

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since you have the Pioneer DEH-80prs, why not try to run active especially since you are thinking about ditching the rears. Run the 300/4 on the tweets and mids and run the 500/1 to the sub. This is pretty much how I ran my 300/4 in my volvo with an eclipse head unit. It is a great amp and was more than enough for my front stage.
 

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Another vote for running the front stage active. It's a lot easier to learn how to tune DSP w/ just the fronts than w/ a full system. The experience will help when u start tuning the whole system.
 

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300/4 is a GREAT amp. No need to consider an upgrade to the zapco, and it would only take 5 minutes to bridge it to the comps and see how you liked it.

That being said...you could always run the ID comps active with 4 channels of the 300/4. :)
likewise you have the ability to set the crossover as high as 5k 24dp/octave (i think, but definitely 3.5k). so you could use it fully active for the front stage. again an easy thing to change if you have easy access to the crossovers.

alos you could pick up a 300.2 for small money i got one for 150 on ebay recently
 

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likewise you have the ability to set the crossover as high as 5k 24dp/octave (i think, but definitely 3.5k). so you could use it fully active for the front stage. again an easy thing to change if you have easy access to the crossovers.

alos you could pick up a 300.2 for small money i got one for 150 on ebay recently
This is exactly how my system ended up right before I sold the car. I ran the 300/4 on the tweets and mids. Had a 300/2 on the midbass in the front doors and had a RF punch 800a2 bridged on the subs. If OP is thinking along those lines, I would be willing to part with my JL 300/2 for a decent price. As much as I loved the slash series, I moved over to class D in my newer car so not using any of the slash amps.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
First of all, I want to thank everyone for taking the time to post their feedback, suggestions, etc. As others have said the clear consensus here is stay with the slash 300/4, bridge it to run the front comps and go active. Admittedly I am not knowledgeable or experienced enough to tackle going active and tuning however, I have no problem paying someone is is all of those things to get everything dialed in to maximize its potential.

Jroo, would you mind going into more detail about your setup given your response to scooterfrogs response? I’m not opposed to adding the 300/2 to the system as I’m intrigued. Like I mentioned in an earlier post, the 80prs was always the go to HU given the SQ, internal components and the many tuning capabilities. I’m fairly comfortable with the 80prs but some had posted adding a DSP as well. I have zero experience with DSPs and wouldn’t even attempt to as I’m quite sure I would quickly do more damage than anything else. Also, how ‘necessary’ would adding a DSP be given the 80prs capabilities along with the capabilities of the Slash amps? I realize that I’m asking a lot of questions, mostly elementary ones to you guys but your input is not only extremely helpful but greatly appreciated.
 

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No, no, no... you won't have to bridge the JL 300/4 if you take your 80prs active (Network Mode). The RCA coming out of the Pioneer become (Highs - Mids - Lows) when set to Network Mode (Active).

Set the Head Unit to Network Mode via the switch on the chassis of the head unit.

Run the High RCA's to the front channels of the amp (For the tweeters)
Run the Mids RCA's to the Rear channels of the amp (For the Mids)
Run the Lows RCA's to the Sub amp (For the Sub)

Use the 80Prs as the DSP. Set the crossovers with the head unit, set the EQ's with the head unit, set the time alignment with the head unit... You have all you need to go active.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Evl5150, that’s essentially what I was saying in one of my earlier replies. Having the 80prs allows me to almost eliminate the need for an external DSP. The setup you described is way above my knowledge and what I said I’d certainly be willing to pay someone who does. I just want to extract the best possible sound quality out of the gear that I currently have. Your input is much appreciated.
 

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As others have said the clear consensus here is stay with the slash 300/4, bridge it to run the front comps and go active.

Jroo, would you mind going into more detail about your setup given your response to scooterfrogs response? I’m not opposed to adding the 300/2 to the system as I’m intrigued. .
You wont be able to bridge the 300/4 and run it active to a tweet and mid. If you bridge it, you will basically have a more powerful two channel.

Basically my old set up. Channel 1 + 2 of the 300/4 ran my tweeters in my a pillars. channels 3 + 4 of the 300/4 ran a pair of mids in my dash. I then sent a bandpass signal to the 300/2 that ran a pair of midbass in my front doors. Subs were handled by a different amp. Very good, clean sounding system. The JL slash amps are good amps. They are a bit of power hogs but good.
 

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Evl5150, that’s essentially what I was saying in one of my earlier replies. Having the 80prs allows me to almost eliminate the need for an external DSP. The setup you described is way above my knowledge and what I said I’d certainly be willing to pay someone who does. I just want to extract the best possible sound quality out of the gear that I currently have. Your input is much appreciated.

Depending on your vehicle and how difficult it is or isn't to take the radio out of the dash would be the hardest part I promise. If you already have your RCA cables run from the head unit to your two amps (FRONT - REAR - SUB) then that is one less thing to do. The radio is doing the work. When you flip the switch on the head unit to network mode just put the radio back in the dash.

Now your front RCA cables are the Tweeters
The rear RCA cables are the Mids
The Sub is the Sub

On the 300/4 run the front channels out speaker wires to the tweeters
On the 300/4 run the rear channels out speaker wires to the mids
On the Sub amp nothing changes

On the 300/4 set all crossovers to Off - No crossover used on the amp. DON'T use the passive crossovers that the components came with. Set the Gains on the amp.
Set the crossovers in the 80Prs for each speaker
Set the EQ's and Delays
Just read the manual for the head unit on how to set everything.
Keep the volume low until everything is set. The bulk of doing this is literally settings.

Just ask questions if you get confused or stumped.
 

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You wont be able to bridge the 300/4 and run it active to a tweet and mid. If you bridge it, you will basically have a more powerful two channel.

Basically my old set up. Channel 1 + 2 of the 300/4 ran my tweeters in my a pillars. channels 3 + 4 of the 300/4 ran a pair of mids in my dash. I then sent a bandpass signal to the 300/2 that ran a pair of midbass in my front doors. Subs were handled by a different amp. Very good, clean sounding system. The JL slash amps are good amps. They are a bit of power hogs but good.
Exactly!
 

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Depending on your vehicle and how difficult it is or isn't to take the radio out of the dash would be the hardest part I promise. If you already have your RCA cables run from the head unit to your two amps (FRONT - REAR - SUB) then that is one less thing to do. The radio is doing the work. When you flip the switch on the head unit to network mode just put the radio back in the dash.

Now your front RCA cables are the Tweeters
The rear RCA cables are the Mids
The Sub is the Sub

On the 300/4 run the front channels out speaker wires to the tweeters
On the 300/4 run the rear channels out speaker wires to the mids
On the Sub amp nothing changes

On the 300/4 set all crossovers to Off - No crossover used on the amp. DON'T use the passive crossovers that the components came with. Set the Gains on the amp.
Set the crossovers in the 80Prs for each speaker
Set the EQ's and Delays
Just read the manual for the head unit on how to set everything.
Keep the volume low until everything is set. The bulk of doing this is literally settings.

Just ask questions if you get confused or stumped.
Just to avoid potential confusion, the front RCA outputs on the 80PRS are the midbass outputs, the rear outputs are the highs. It would suck to set your crossovers and turn the stereo up only to find that you’re sending midbass to your tweeters.
 

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Just to avoid potential confusion, the front RCA outputs on the 80PRS are the midbass outputs, the rear outputs are the highs. It would suck to set your crossovers and turn the stereo up only to find that you’re sending midbass to your tweeters.
True... don't know why Pioneer did that.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Evl5150, my ‘06 Accord EX-L V6 Coupe is a “7th Generation” and just below the factory radio, AC controls, etc. there is a smallish cubby area for storage and what not that has a door that opens and closes when pushed. Metra make a dash kit that eliminates the storage room however the kit makes it convenient to install your head unit there otherwise it’s a nightmare installing in its true factory location as the radio, AC Controls and LCD screen is all one unit. In short it’s easy to remove and reinstall the HU when I have to switch my my button to Network Mode.

Gijoe, thank you for the clarification of your earlier post. I had completely forgotten that each channel of the amp would feed each tweet & each mid. I said I’ve been out of the game for some time but that one is admittedly embarrassing.

I have NO idea why Pioneer would set it up in essentially what is reverse order because like you guys said you could fry some expensive gear in a hurry. Perhaps it was karaoke night and free pour booze when drawn up. ?‍♂
 
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