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Discussion Starter #1
Hello,

Well I am new to this particular forum and I wanted some opinions on what I have planned for my system, any ideas/help would be appreciated.

Currently, I have a set of Diamond Audio D362 Components in the front and that is about it. I plan on keeping my factory HU, and running a Vibe Audio Litebox4, Polk Audio MM12 (i believe), and ditching the rear speakers. Since this is a budget build, I am not really considering getting a sound processor, instead a LOC utilizing the rear speaker wire. What is your opinion on this, will I see a drastic change if I went with a sound processor? This would be my first build, and I assume anything would be better factory.

Opinions/feedback would be greatly appreciated!
 

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Considering you want to use a factory HU and place all the emphasis on the front stage then yes, DSP would be good in this situation.

Do a search for OEM frequency response.
 

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Hello,

Well I am new to this particular forum and I wanted some opinions on what I have planned for my system, any ideas/help would be appreciated.

Currently, I have a set of Diamond Audio D362 Components in the front and that is about it. I plan on keeping my factory HU, and running a Vibe Audio Litebox4, Polk Audio MM12 (i believe), and ditching the rear speakers. Since this is a budget build, I am not really considering getting a sound processor, instead a LOC utilizing the rear speaker wire. What is your opinion on this, will I see a drastic change if I went with a sound processor? This would be my first build, and I assume anything would be better factory.

Opinions/feedback would be greatly appreciated!
Yes, you would see a huge difference with a sound processor.

But before anything, what model Accord do you have?
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Considering you want to use a factory HU and place all the emphasis on the front stage then yes, DSP would be good in this situation.

Do a search for OEM frequency response.
Okay, I will do some research on this.

Yes, you would see a huge difference with a sound processor.

But before anything, what model Accord do you have?
It is listed in the title of the thread, but it is a 2009 Honda Accord Sedan EX.
 

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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
Just a quick note, I am completely new to car audio. So if I decided to go with a sound processor, is there any that you guys/gals recommend if I am on a budget? And the reason I want to ditch the rear speakers is because someone I spoke to before recommended it. He said that with the components up front and the Polk MM12 in the back, it should fill out the sound all around. I often have some passengers, so I don't want it completely dead in the rear seats.
 

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K, so it's an EX. That mean that it is the base system with only speaker level outputs that are not flat and unprocessed. I would look into an OEM integration processor like a JBL MS-8 or Alpine PXE-H660.

They come with a feature that removes the OEM head unit's processing and restores it back to as close to the signal that comes from the CD as possible. It then takes that base signal and sends it to a sophisticated DSP which auto tunes (ie crossover, EQ, time aligns separate channels) for the unique aftermarket components and installation.

Think of it like what they do at the factory on an OEM setup but without the compromises such as limiting bass to protect speakers, staging and tonality for all seats instead of a single position which is optimum, etc.

It is also best to use the master volume control on the processor instead of the head unit, but its not mandatory.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
K, so it's an EX. That mean that it is the base system with only speaker level outputs that are not flat and unprocessed. I would look into an OEM integration processor like a JBL MS-8 or Alpine PXE-H660.

They come with a feature that removes the OEM head unit's processing and restores it back to as close to the signal that comes from the CD as possible. It then takes that base signal and sends it to a sophisticated DSP which auto tunes (ie crossover, EQ, time aligns separate channels) for the unique aftermarket components and installation.

Think of it like what they do at the factory on an OEM setup but without the compromises such as limiting bass to protect speakers, staging and tonality for all seats instead of a single position which is optimum, etc.

It is also best to use the master volume control on the processor instead of the head unit, but its not mandatory.
Thank you for your help! I may pick up the alpine pxe-h660 since it is less costly. I just picked up a Vibe Audio Litebox4, so just need a couple more things.
 

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Thank you for your help! I may pick up the alpine pxe-h660 since it is less costly. I just picked up a Vibe Audio Litebox4, so just need a couple more things.
The MS-8's are all over the place used for below $500 if you're interested. And their not going to be that old since they hit the market only a year or so ago.

There's a huge thread her on it if you wanna learn more about it.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
The MS-8's are all over the place used for below $500 if you're interested. And their not going to be that old since they hit the market only a year or so ago.

There's a huge thread her on it if you wanna learn more about it.
I wish I had $500 to spend on the processor...I know the Alpine doesn't have as many features and is a bit larger, but if it is capable of doing what I need for half the price I may have to do that. Any opinions on Rockford Fosgate 3sixty.2?
 

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I wish I had $500 to spend on the processor...I know the Alpine doesn't have as many features and is a bit larger, but if it is capable of doing what I need for half the price I may have to do that. Any opinions on Rockford Fosgate 3sixty.2?
The H660 will work nicely then.

Don't know much about the 3sixtys other that I don't think they have the advanced auto tuning that the alpine and jbl units do.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
The H660 will work nicely then.

Don't know much about the 3sixtys other that I don't think they have the advanced auto tuning that the alpine and jbl units do.
Do you happen to know if with the H660 I will lose some functionality of steering wheel controls and the factory headunit?
 

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Do you happen to know if with the H660 I will lose some functionality of steering wheel controls and the factory headunit?
Not unless you use the sterring wheel control with a device to be able to control the volume of the pxe. If not you won't need to touch anything there and it will work as it does now. You then would use the include IR remote for pxe control.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Not unless you use the sterring wheel control with a device to be able to control the volume of the pxe. If not you won't need to touch anything there and it will work as it does now. You then would use the include IR remote for pxe control.
Awesome, thank you for your help once again! And I didn't get my question answered before, but will ditching the rear speakers and just running the subwoofer along with the front stage take away from the sound produced in the rear seats?
 

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Awesome, thank you for your help once again! And I didn't get my question answered before, but will ditching the rear speakers and just running the subwoofer along with the front stage take away from the sound produced in the rear seats?
No problem

If you remove the rear speakers, it will improve the front seat performance since the stage will not be dragged to the rear (unless you use some special rear fill processing which the pxe doesnt have, but that's for another thread).

Rear passenger sound will suffer without rears though. Mainly in the midrange and highs due to the seats and passengers blocking it's path. But how exactly is easy enough to see, just fade to the front now and get in the back seat. ;)

You can leave the rears connected to the oem speaker level outputs and only use the front output to feed the pxe, which will work fine for this headunit since front and rear signal characteristics are the same. Then just fad to the front for everyday listening and when you want sound in the rear fade to center. Unless fading to the front doesn't cut out a big enough amount of audio to make it inaudible, then you have to hardwire a switch to cut them off or get an amp and feed those speakers from the rear outs of the pxe. And fade from it. Will sound better that way. (Come to think about it, make sure that the rear and front outputs are identical. just in case the front have a highpass filter on them to cut out the bass)

I would not recommend the rears if you don't absolutely need them. Removing those speakers and leaving the hole open will help the sub bass come into the cabin. Thats always a good thing. It'll still come through by a good margin but just not as much.

Also that car comes with active noise cancellation which uses two mics in the cabin to send an inverse signal to the front speakers of the noise they pic up. Any aftermarket setup will not work with them, so you need to disable that. IIRC all you need to do is unplug the two mics or a plug behind the head unit. Search "driveaccord" forum for the correct procedure and schematics on that.
 

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my rear speakers are just mids with no tweeters, not sure if the sedans are the same or not... but if so, then there wouldn't be any loss of highs from the rear.
 

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my rear speakers are just mids with no tweeters, not sure if the sedans are the same or not... but if so, then there wouldn't be any loss of highs from the rear.
Well technically there could be. A speaker that size can extend to the high range (ie full range speakers) and it would not have to be on axis to do so in this case since the rear glass would reflect those on axis only highs and give the impression of tweeters from the rear.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
No problem

If you remove the rear speakers, it will improve the front seat performance since the stage will not be dragged to the rear (unless you use some special rear fill processing which the pxe doesnt have, but that's for another thread).

Rear passenger sound will suffer without rears though. Mainly in the midrange and highs due to the seats and passengers blocking it's path. But how exactly is easy enough to see, just fade to the front now and get in the back seat. ;)

You can leave the rears connected to the oem speaker level outputs and only use the front output to feed the pxe, which will work fine for this headunit since front and rear signal characteristics are the same. Then just fad to the front for everyday listening and when you want sound in the rear fade to center. Unless fading to the front doesn't cut out a big enough amount of audio to make it inaudible, then you have to hardwire a switch to cut them off or get an amp and feed those speakers from the rear outs of the pxe. And fade from it. Will sound better that way. (Come to think about it, make sure that the rear and front outputs are identical. just in case the front have a highpass filter on them to cut out the bass)

I would not recommend the rears if you don't absolutely need them. Removing those speakers and leaving the hole open will help the sub bass come into the cabin. Thats always a good thing. It'll still come through by a good margin but just not as much.

Also that car comes with active noise cancellation which uses two mics in the cabin to send an inverse signal to the front speakers of the noise they pic up. Any aftermarket setup will not work with them, so you need to disable that. IIRC all you need to do is unplug the two mics or a plug behind the head unit. Search "driveaccord" forum for the correct procedure and schematics on that.
Okay, that makes sense. I may run the pxe off just the front output and leave the rears. I have always run the speakers more front bias and never noticed any real difference, maybe a little loss in bass but not much.

Just wondering, how would I test if there is a highpass filter on the fronts? Also, if I were to run the pxe off the front output only, how does that work exactly (in terms of wiring, a description should be suffice) running the rcas to the amp?
 

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Okay, that makes sense. I may run the pxe off just the front output and leave the rears. I have always run the speakers more front bias and never noticed any real difference, maybe a little loss in bass but not much.

Just wondering, how would I test if there is a highpass filter on the fronts? Also, if I were to run the pxe off the front output only, how does that work exactly (in terms of wiring, a description should be suffice) running the rcas to the amp?
You'd need to search the interwebz or call a reputable installer for that info. I've never looked into how it's best done for this particular head unit and car.

I assume you splice into the front speaker level outputs on the back of the head unit and run them to the rear to the pxe front speaker level input. Then the front one way RCA out to the 4 channel amps RCA inputs. You might need an RCA Y adapter for that amp you might not. check the manuals for everything, that should help with mostly everything. And the "Imprint" thread on here and on the net for tips and tricks when running the auto tune.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
You'd need to search the interwebz or call a reputable installer for that info. I've never looked into how it's best done for this particular head unit and car.

I assume you splice into the front speaker level outputs on the back of the head unit and run them to the rear to the pxe front speaker level input. Then the front one way RCA out to the 4 channel amps RCA inputs. You might need an RCA Y adapter for that amp you might not. check the manuals for everything, that should help with mostly everything. And the "Imprint" thread on here and on the net for tips and tricks when running the auto tune.
Great, you have very helpful! I will have to search the accord forums (which I am readily active on) to figure out if the front output has a highpass filter. Thanks again!
 
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