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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
2019 Civic Sedan - SQL/Daily build

Vehicle

2019 Honda Civic Sedan (w/ 7in. factory HU that I will be keeping)


Budget

Roughly $1200 all said and done. Install myself.


Current Setup

Stock. With a MRX-110 (1100W x 1 @ 2ohm) on hand from a previous car of mine.


Goals

Looking to run amped components up front and 1 12" sub. Eventually adding rear midbass woofers. I know this term isn't always well received but I'm looking for SQL in the sub and I want to go sealed for now for ease of build and space factor. I will be likely be building the enclosure myself. I listen to a variety of music. Heavy in Alternative and Hard Rock as well as Rap/Hip Hop. I want SQ but I want to be able to get loud still.

My plan so far is a JL Fix86 to restore the signal from the HU, 2 JBL GTO609C's up front, and was planning on a Sundown SA-12. Problem with the SA-12 is that anywhere I find it online is going to cost me $75+ in shipping, plus I also want to hear what other subs people may suggest.

Being in Hawaii, shipping can be tricky..

Current price list is as follows (including shipping):
  • JL Fix86 - $380 or Open Box from Sonic for $320 (Definite)
  • JBL GTO609C - $97 (Open to suggestions)
  • Pioneer GM-D8704 - $141 (Definite)
  • Sundown SA-12 - $300 (Open to suggestions)
  • Alpine MRX-110 - Already Own
  • KnuKonceptz 2x Amp Kit + 35 SqFt Sound Deadening - $250
  • Enclosure - approx. $75 to build
Total: $1183-1243
 

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Definitely do not try to run 2 sets of components up front (or anywhere for that matter). There is no benefit over a single set, and there are lots of drawbacks. Put that money toward a better set (I don't personally know anything about the ones you're looking at), or use it for some sound deadening.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Definitely do not try to run 2 sets of components up front (or anywhere for that matter). There is no benefit over a single set, and there are lots of drawbacks. Put that money toward a better set (I don't personally know anything about the ones you're looking at), or use it for some sound deadening.
What I meant was 2 components. 1 L and 1 R mid and tweeter. I guess I was redundnant.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Gotcha, just needed to clarify.
Yeah I made that confusing now that I went back and read it. Any suggestions on a subwoofer? That's where I'm really looking for advice. I've heard mixed things about the SA-12 in a sealed box.. I'm curious what other options to consider for $300 or under.
 

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For sub I would look at the FI SSD 12" Seems like it would be exactly what you're looking for. Not sure about shipping to HI though. I imagine any large sub like that is going to cost an arm and a leg to ship there. But the 12" SSD starts at $259 right now.

Josh
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
For sub I would look at the FI SSD 12" Seems like it would be exactly what you're looking for. Not sure about shipping to HI though. I imagine any large sub like that is going to cost an arm and a leg to ship there. But the 12" SSD starts at $259 right now.

Josh
Haven’t even heard about it. All I usually see is recommendations for the Fi Q. How do you think it will perform underpowered? It’s rated for 1250w but I’d probably only put 1000w to it at most. Would I want the stiff suspension or soft?
 

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Haven’t even heard about it. All I usually see is recommendations for the Fi Q. How do you think it will perform underpowered? It’s rated for 1250w but I’d probably only put 1000w to it at most. Would I want the stiff suspension or soft?
Power=SPL, if you use less power, the sub is quieter. That's all you have to worry about when using less power. We could get into dynamic headroom, but it's really not necessary at this point. You cannot damage a sub (or any speaker) by under powering it.

Also, it's good to know how power translates to SPL. It takes double the power to give a 3dB increase in SPL, 3dB is noticeable, but not significant. It's generally agreed that 10dBs equals double the perceived output, and it takes 10x the power for a 10dB increase in output.

A sub with a higher sensitivity will get louder off of less power.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Power=SPL, if you use less power, the sub is quieter. That's all you have to worry about when using less power. We could get into dynamic headroom, but it's really not necessary at this point. You cannot damage a sub (or any speaker) by under powering it.

Also, it's good to know how power translates to SPL. It takes double the power to give a 3dB increase in SPL, 3dB is noticeable, but not significant. It's generally agreed that 10dBs equals double the perceived output, and it takes 10x the power for a 10dB increase in output.

A sub with a higher sensitivity will get louder off of less power.
Appreciate it. I just wanted to clarify, because I've read stuff like the SA-12 being power hungry where it's rated for 750w but really performs well at 1000W+ so I didn't want underpowering to be a concern. Anyways, the Fi wants to charge $150 just for shipping..
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I could get the Type R's for my budget.. kinda boring going alpine, but I hear good things about them sealed. The new 5th gen R-W12 is only rated for 750 though, the previous SWR-12 is rated for the 1000. Thoughts?
 

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You can no doubt get a Type R locally. And probably cheaper than any other 1000W well regarded brand.

I am skeptical of how much better the Fix will be over a DSP. From what I can tell, the OEM EQ will change as the volume is changed. So does it rebuild the FR better than a DSP given that the EQ will change with volume. I almost bought a Fix, but since I have a DSP I plan to try it first and see.

Also, if the 19 is anything like the 16, get ready for panel rattle. The car seems to be designed to assemble very fast; there are very few metal screws holding anything, all plastic push in connectors. But I really like the car anyway.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
You can no doubt get a Type R locally. And probably cheaper than any other 1000W well regarded brand.

I am skeptical of how much better the Fix will be over a DSP. From what I can tell, the OEM EQ will change as the volume is changed. So does it rebuild the FR better than a DSP given that the EQ will change with volume. I almost bought a Fix, but since I have a DSP I plan to try it first and see.

Also, if the 19 is anything like the 16, get ready for panel rattle. The car seems to be designed to assemble very fast; there are very few metal screws holding anything, all plastic push in connectors. But I really like the car anyway.
are you familar in the difference in performance between the new Type R (750 rms) and the previous (1000w rms)?

Man I'm not really sure about the fix or dsp... I was orignally just gonna go with a LC7i but was told repeatedly on reddit that a Fix would do a better job and easier.

I'll be sound deadening the doors and rear dec so I hope rattle isn't too bad.
 

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You want to fix the TA, flexible EQ, and maybe the possibility to set your own crossover points. This is more in line with a DSP. But as I said, I'm skeptical about the Fix, not certain about it.

I don't know any specifics about the Type R other than it should be good build quality. Don't worry about the power. It's not an item to nitpick over right now. It will be loud and the amp is fine. Just build a nice box and see how it goes.
 

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The FIX is everything JL says it is. I tried like hell to just use my JL TwK 88 DSP to work around the factory EQ on my Ford Sync radio and could never get the bass to sound right. I finally gave in and bought the JL FIX 86 and the bass and everything else was perfect right after I ran the calibration. The FIX also undoes the factory time alignment as well. I also use my factory volume knob within a certain range without noticing anything off. From my experience the FIX 86 was well worth the money.
 
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The FIX is everything JL says it is. I tried like hell to just use my JL TwK 88 DSP to work around the factory EQ on my Ford Sync radio and could never get the bass to sound right. I finally gave in and bought the JL FIX 86 and the bass and everything else was perfect right after I ran the calibration. The FIX also undoes the factory time alignment as well. I also use my factory volume knob within a certain range without noticing anything off. From my experience the FIX 86 was well worth the money.
Removing TA doesn't matter does it? Using a DSP to change the TA is the same thing correct?

As for the volume, I guess I'd have to mess with it to see how narrow the range ends up being.

I was so close to buying the Fix. I'm going to do like you though and try just a DSP first.
 

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Removing TA doesn't matter does it? Using a DSP to change the TA is the same thing correct?

As for the volume, I guess I'd have to mess with it to see how narrow the range ends up being.

I was so close to buying the Fix. I'm going to do like you though and try just a DSP first.
Schmiddr2, if the factory head unit already has time alignment built in and you use a DSP without the FIX to change it than what you will likely get is a compounding error and the overall time alignment will not be right. This is what I believe is one of the issues I had when I just used the TwK88 without the FIX 86 on my Sync radio. I only use the ruler method of time alignment so that also makes a difference. If I know the time alignment is unchanged from a base start than when I input my measurements into my regular DSP (TwK 88) I know they will be right from the baseline.

What the FIX does is undo all the factory time alignment and speaker EQ and gives you a clean and flat signal just like you would get from a qaulity aftermarket radio. Trust me when I tell you the FIX works really well. I have a Pioneer 1330 in my other vehicle with a TwK 88 and the FIX 86 gives me just as good a signal as I get from that Pioneer HU.
 
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