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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I know his is a mobile site, but it seems a lot of people here have expereicne with this woofer. So, has anyone designed a passive crossover for the CA18LNX? I am thinking about using one in a 2-way home setup, but i dont know **** about building a crossover...yet.

I'm thinking about mating it with a ribbon for a really nice 2-way set i can use on my computer desk! Don't know if a ribbon would be the best choice though. Thanks!
 

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IMO, a noncoincident two-way that close is a dicey proposition. I've never heard one that summed coherently, except for some of the nearfield studio monitors that use carefully-designed waveguides on the tweets. One with two different radiation modes (point source vs. line source) can only be worse.

For a nearfield 2-way, look at the new Seas H1333. It should be even better than its predecessor, the already quite good H1144. The main difference from the graphs is that with the new tweeter you can fearlessly cross the at the ~1.8kHz range, which is about where the woofer and tweeter have the same directivity. The H1144's tweet wouldn't have been happy that low even with an 8th order Cauer-elliptic crossover.

Alternately, it make make more sense to do something like a pair of Aura NS3's in front of you and a Peerless XLS8 at your feet. You could do that active for about the cost of the H1333's and crossover components...
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
DS-21 said:
IMO, a noncoincident two-way that close is a dicey proposition. I've never heard one that summed coherently, except for some of the nearfield studio monitors that use carefully-designed waveguides on the tweets. One with two different radiation modes (point source vs. line source) can only be worse.

For a nearfield 2-way, look at the new Seas H1333. It should be even better than its predecessor, the already quite good H1144. The main difference from the graphs is that with the new tweeter you can fearlessly cross the at the ~1.8kHz range, which is about where the woofer and tweeter have the same directivity. The H1144's tweet wouldn't have been happy that low even with an 8th order Cauer-elliptic crossover.

Alternately, it make make more sense to do something like a pair of Aura NS3's in front of you and a Peerless XLS8 at your feet. You could do that active for about the cost of the H1333's and crossover components...
So basically you're saying the setup I had in mind would not be good due to the distance from me to the speakers, especially using a ribbon. I kinda thought that too but wasn't sure what people with more experience would say. This project is meant to be mainly my first pass at making my own home audio speakers. I wanted to get some more building and designing experience before I jump into making towers. I'd love to try the H1144's, an enclosure with one speaker would be easy to make.
 

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Yeah, basically what I'm saying is that to me a two-way with the drivers separated in space doesn't sound coherent in the nearfield unless lots of efforts have been made to tailor the response of the tweeter such that its directivity matches the midwoofer's. That could be a psychoacoustic effect (i.e. my mind playing tricks on me) and it should also be noted that I prefer coincident/dual-concentric drivers in just about all circumstances.

Though if you look at it another way, compare:

Two H1333's + crossover parts: About $300, give or take.

Two Aura NS3's for the satelites, a Peerless XLS8 for the sub, and one of the newer 2.1-channel plate amps: ~$260, plus or minus a few bucks. If you want to spend a bit more than the H1333 system using this approach, it would be impossible to go wrong with the Vifa 10BGS. (I never can remember the international model number - "10BGS" is the German market name - but it's the 4" fiberglass woofer on the DIY Mobile Audio spreadsheet.) Never having listened to them in the same environment, I can't say which I prefer. Probably the Aura motor on the Vifa cone in the Vifa basket :)

Big a fan as I am of the H1144 (and from what I can see, the H1333 takes care of the one weakness of the H1144), I wouldn't care to bet on which of the above three systems would sound better. That said, if you do go for the Seas drivers, resist the temptation to toe them in like you normally would. They (like the KEF Uni-Q and most coincident or dual concentric drivers) have an on-axis notch that would make them sound nasal. Either fire them straight out or "overtoe" them. (To "overtoe", aim the tweeters towards a point about 1 foot to the side of your ear, such that their axes cross well in front of you.)

The aforementioned Linkwitz Pluto is also an interesting choice, though expensive if you buy SL's amps pre-assembled. Until I lucked into the Tannoys that are going to anchor my main system for the foreseeable future my plans were to build Plutos for my study as soon as I had the time. I still might, but using Sonotube instead of PVC (easier to veneer) and probably a right angle on the Whisper's tube (again, for veneering purposes). PVC pipes would detract too much from a room with oak floors and solid mahogany furniture.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
What do you mean by toe them in?

I want to use these speakers in a stereo setup on my computer desk. The main problem I notice is each speaker firing accross the physical desk. I thought that a ribbon might not like that considering they have great vertical dispersion, so the desk would probably interfere in my mind. Again, i dont have any experience with home audio, but i wanna get started. I'm not shy on using "better" drivers either. The CA18 is in my price range.

Would it be an ok setup if I just put a Seas H1333 in a sealed enclosure and just put it on my desk? I'm gonna take care of the sub later btw.
 
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