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Discussion Starter #1
I have a factory nissan head and also an eclipse 8454. Would the factory head unit and changer through a JL cleansweep or RF 360.2 sound worse than using my eclipse head? I looked at keeping the factory head and using the RF, but both dealers in town said start with an aftermarket head like my eclipse. As one dealer stated, "you are placing eq and xovers on a dirty signal by keeping the factory stuff". Maybe I missed something, but I though the point of the 360.2 and cleansweep was to clean up factory deck signals so it sounded as good or better than aftermarket with out having to swap stuff out?
 

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Honestly, if your Nissan head is a Bose HU of recent vintage, I would use the balanced outputs directly into a balanced-capable amp and ace the CleanSweep/360 completely.

Have done this in G35 coupes and sedans with Bose with stellar results.

The point of a CS/360 is to maximize the sound quality for situations where the HU cannot be replaced - because soon, if there wasn't a solution to that problem, there wouldn't be a car audio industry.

If you can change your HU to an SQ HU, do it. If it is an act of congress (integrated climate controls, etc.) then do what you have to.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
so excluding integration issues, would an sq head always sound better head to head? I do believe the system is bose
 

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so excluding integration issues, would an sq head always sound better head to head? I do believe the system is bose
I personally think that an SQ HU sounds better than a non-SQ HU, but SQ HUs cost more too.

The bigger differences in my mind - the bigger impacts, I should say, are speaker and install and amplifier setup related.

So I think you are better off on most budgets, if you have recent Nissan Bose, spending the money on the best front speaks and setup you can afford, and then amps and bass, and use the OEM HU. Then change the HU later, if you want.

You would do better with Morels or Dynes or the like, and the OE HU, than you would lower-cost speakers and a great SQ HU - I think.
 

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I had a JBL stock radio in my car and upgraded to a Pioneer HU and I noticed a big difference but I had to buy new speakers because the HU was putting out a lot of power to my stock speakers and they weren't handling the power too well but it did sound better personally.
 

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From experience of using a 3Sixty.2 in several cars now, and of course owning several aftermarket HU's, let me say something:

The 3Sixty.2 does NOT clean up a dirty signal from the factory HU. What it does is take in the signal, and attempt to flatten each incoming channel using the 31 band EQ (less on center and sub) to get there. It does this by measuring the factory's response through the factory CD player (or aux. in if you are using the files on the RF website), and it will boost or cut up to 10dB + / - on that signal to attempt to flatten it. It can not do anything more than that, unfortunately. The other thing is that the input has a gain circuit that you can adjust to reduce clipping, plus clipping indicators to let you know when the "dirt" begins on the volume knob. Sadly, for my current vehicle the clipping occurs only 6 notches into the output, so I'm screwed and will probably need to get an aftermarket HU.


do you have other questions about the 3sixty.2?
 

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If the built-in features of the OEM HU can be equalized back to flat (equalizer, etc), and the output from the OEM HU is not audibly distorted or otherwise anomalous, and you obtain the same (or better) processing from an external unit......I don't see the need to change the OEM HU.

From my understanding some of the newer cars are using some more advanced techniques in their design, some of which may be harder to "remove" from the signal. I don't install for a living, so I could be mistaken, but IIRC Andy W. has said on here that some of the OEM units are now featuring time alignment and other more advanced DSP functions that will be a little harder to "back out" of the signal.
 

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Sadly, for my current vehicle the clipping occurs only 6 notches into the output, so I'm screwed and will probably need to get an aftermarket HU.
The clipping on the OP does somewhat depend on the load... what is the HU and car? (If you already said this in another thread I apologize, but I missed this data point).

I have seen clipping on the same OE HU at different points with different aftermarket amplifiers attached... hmm
 

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Well per the 3sixty.2 instructions you put in the test disc, and use track 1 (which is a 0-bit full-range sine spike repeatedly) and set the volume until the clip indicators dance lightly. Then, switch to track 2 and engage the auto-eq feature at that set volume. You do this entire procedure with the RCA's disconnected from your amps...thus the processor doesn't care about the amps at all. For me, that clip point was dismally low at 6 clicks on the integrated display (it has about 30 clicks possible if I counted correctly.) That means that the speaker-level outputs going to the 3sixty.2 are clipping REALLY early, which defeats the purpose of using the factory HU for signal.

Its just the nature of this car, and what sucks really bad is that it is REALLY integrated, and nobody (not one single person) makes a dash kit that will actually accommodate the factory finish and look. Here's a shot:



If you try to find a dash kit, you'll notice that they are all matte-black or silver, not gloss black. That's an issue, because the entire car's trim panels are indeed gloss piano black. Sure, I can paint, but the finish from the factory is not like typical paint. It is really thick and when it chips (in places of higher wear like the door trim), it doesn't look like paint. Still trying to figure it out, actually.


Anyway, to the OP, hope this helps w/ understanding the 3sixty.2
 

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You do this entire procedure with the RCA's disconnected from your amps...thus the processor doesn't care about the amps at all.
I mis-spoke. The HU clipping is a function of whatever input stage the outputs are driving (whether they are in an amp or the 360 or a Clean Sweep or whatever).

I just don't believe that the OE HU will clip at 6 clicks into ANY load. I don't know if it's a good or bad-sounding HU, but I don't believe that it is always going to clip at 6 clicks. This must be some weird impedance mismatch...

Do you have access to an o-scope, by any chance?
 

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I bet it does. The 3sixty.2 measures distortion (clipping) pretty accurately, and I bet even soft clipping is detectable. I can't get much above 7 to 8 clicks before I can audibly hear distortion in this particular head unit.

Stock head units blow sometimes.

BTW this is the "Audiophile" model...seriously.

No O-scope.
 

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Well, it is true that with the dozens of OE interface installs I have done, I never have even tried one in a domestic automobile... not good news or bad news, it's just the news.

You always could play a sine wave through the unit and watch the DC content with a scope... but for all I know it has clamped DC signal.
 

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Hey fourth maybe Power coat?, I can't really tell from the pic, is the radio tied in to the ac controls? Or are they all separate?
 

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Its just the nature of this car, and what sucks really bad is that it is REALLY integrated, and nobody (not one single person) makes a dash kit that will actually accommodate the factory finish and look. Here's a shot:
Ford Focus... Right? Don't have one just that I rented one a couple of days ago :p

Kelvin
 

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The Focus has a similar design but this is a 2008 Tribute iTouring.

The A/C is not tied DIRECTLY to the unit, but the top display up there would be dead if I use an aftermarket unit. Not the end of the world, but annoying.
 
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