[WisconsinBadger414]

Did some googling/DIYMA searches and couldn’t find much on this.

Knowing that an amp’s speaker wires require a thicker AWG because of the higher current, if you’re just sending that signal to the high-level inputs of an amplifier (or in my case a DSP) instead of the speakers, don’t these inputs have a high impedance, meaning low current, meaning you can use much thinner wire? Would I be fine using say, 18 or even 20 AWG wire for this?

I bet the answer is universal but if it helps, my stock HU outputs ~220W (no idea how that’s distributed amongst the speakers) and my DSP spec says its high-level inputs have an impedance of 180 ohms.

 

[Holmz]

Did some googling/DIYMA searches and couldn’t find much on this.

Knowing that an amp’s speaker wires require a thicker AWG because of the higher current, if you’re just sending that signal to the high-level inputs of an amplifier (or in my case a DSP) instead of the speakers, don’t these inputs have a high impedance, meaning low current, meaning you can use much thinner wire? Would I be fine using say, 18 or even 20 AWG wire for this?

I bet the answer is universal but if it helps, my stock HU outputs ~220W (no idea how that’s distributed amongst the speakers) and my DSP spec says its high-level inputs have an impedance of 180 ohms.

Yep... is it 180 ohms or 180k ohms?

V=IR so I = V/R

Pick a number for V, which is in the input voltage of the amp... (lets say it is 18v because the math is easy there.)

18v/180ohm = 0.1 Ampere.

So whatever is rated for 0.1 amps continuous, is way more than enough, because it will be 1/10 that in a continuous sense... it s probably like 4v or 8v, but that needs to be found out. It could even be 20v.

So 20-24 gauge seems right, but consult a chart.

If there is a resistor in there, then put it where the speakers go and not back at the amplifier... or the current then needs to flow down the 24 gauge back to the amplifier.

 

[llebcire]

@Holmz math is completely accurate!

If you’re simply asking whether you can use the factory wire - yes.

Many, including myself, use the OEM wire with aftermarket speakers and aftermarket amps as with the power we’re discussing to mids /highs the benefits from moving to a larger wire is negligible. With that in mind using ORM wire to feed your DSP isn’t an issue.

Are you creating a build log?

-Eric


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[WisconsinBadger414]

Hi

@Holmz math is completely accurate!

If you’re simply asking whether you can use the factory wire - yes.

Many, including myself, use the OEM wire with aftermarket speakers and aftermarket amps as with the power we’re discussing to mids /highs the benefits from moving to a larger wire is negligible. With that in mind using ORM wire to feed your DSP isn’t an issue.

Are you creating a build log?

-Eric


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Thanks guys! So I'm actually not creating a build log as this is a re-install of my previous system from my car that got totalled. Just making a feeeew changes to it-- I had just realized that I can probably ditch my 16-gauge wire going from the stock HU to the DSP high-level inputs because as the other guy said, there's such little current going through them! I'm going to go with 20 AWG OFC, should be fine, I'm sure I could go down to 24 AWG but I have the space.

 

[Holmz]

That Tefzel wire is prett chafe resistant...
But any wire works if one pays attention to sharp edges and take the normal precautions.