[BuBz]

Ok now that i have everyone's attention I am just a little bit curious about something. First off I have been around car audio for a very long time(eve before they put sub woofers into cars). I was never a builder of boxes or custom fabs but i know how to position things just right so it sounds the best, I know how install, wire, hide just about anything you want to put into your vehicle.


But to make a long story short I currently own a pair of Pioneer TS-W301 12 inch subs. YES YES YES I know they are a free air woofer I do understand that they DO NOT work well in a box(so Pioneer says :mean: ) I have owned them for a few years now 6 to be exact. They are not in pristine condition (now only a little dusty from storage) but i consider them great(nothing affects the operation of them) and they are daily thumpers (Alpine MRD-M500) THEY SOUND GREAT!

NOW! I am currently changing my set up in my 1996 Jimmy I am adding a Power Acoustik SL2-1000 to drive my 301fs and was thinking of building a new enclosure for them.BUT! As only being an installer and somewhat diyer i have absolutely no idea on what size (Cubic footage) would be best for them.

I do have the specs for the drivers but not sure what to do with them.

SPECS

T / S Pioneer TS-W301F:


Fs - 23.3 Hz
Qts - 0,33
Qms - 6,38
Qes - 0,35
Vas - 234,76l

Mms - 73,5g
Xmax - 8mm
Sd - 511cm^2
Re - 3Ohm
Le - 0,37mH
BL - 9,64Tm
P(RMS) - 150W R
SPL - 93dB


I know the subs are fairly old not exactly sure what year but I do know that i like them a whole lot and would like to continue to use them.


SO HELP!!! I came across this forum site one night looking for information on my old school alpine stuff and registered. And now still a nOOb here I was hoping that some one out there can help me out

Thanks for any help i may get

 

[Lanson]

Teach a man to fish:

go download WinISD Pro, a free box building calculation program, so you can figure out what box is idea for the frequency response you want to have.
http://www.linearteam.dk/default.aspx?pageid=winisdpro

Then, build to spec, and test out to make sure you like the results.

Don't forget to figure in a little cabin gain around 80hz and down.

 

[Lanson]

BTW, the quick numbers I figured out were:

Optimal sealed box of 65.39 liters...2.3 cubic feet

Ported box 121 liters, tuned to 29Hz....4.27 cubic feet.

 

[BuBz]

Is that per woofer?

 

[BuBz]

oh and i was thinking sealed because of my amp rack and im not that keen on the sound of ported I like the sound of sealed

 

[sqshoestring]

Fourthmeal has it; download winISD, enter that stuff in the driver database as new driver, and model it. That will give you a good idea of what you had in the past if you had them in a box, and you can drag the box to change size and see the response change. Its really easy and you can put any sub specs in it.

If they are IB (free-air) subs they will loose the low bass in a small box, but have good bottom that reaches down low with a huge box, and have a smooth curve. Just put in a huge number to simulate IB, you will see after a point the response changes little when enlarging the box and that is essentially IB mounting...as used in a car. They will work in a box, it just needs to be so large most don't bother (to get low bass like IB will). You can also simulate various ported configurations, and compare other drivers at the same time, and it shows SPL. Its not that hard to use is the simplest program I've found.

 

[BuBz]

pics of said drivers

 

[BuBz]

I am really glad I came across this site late one night you guys have been a big help

 

[BuBz]

Is my AP capable of this?

 

[BuBz]

sorry my Power Acoustic (fat finger moment)

 

[Lanson]

You tell us...what is its output at 2ohm? DL the manual if you need to.

 

[BuBz]

now I know why I didn't try winisd before because it wont let me ad my woofer it says the Thiele/Small Specs are wrong and as for the amp i couldn't find anything on it that i didn't have to pay for maybe i didn't look hard enough i don't know lol

 

[Lanson]

30 seconds on google show that the PA SL2-1000 only puts out about 220Wx2 @ 4ohms stereo, and 280x2 @ 2ohms, it will bridge but only to 4ohms.

This means you can't do what you want to do. You are better off running one of each channel.

Now then, for the specs:

There is a technique to WinISD that the forums will teach you (the WinISD forums, that is.) The program wants to auto-calculate some of them so let it, so the numbers match up correctly.

I put in the QMS, QES, and let it pick the Qts. Then, I pick the Fs, and the VAS in liters or cu. ft., and save it. If you want to add more specs down below, make sure to read the forums carefully for the correct procedure. The reason is that WinISD is very accurate, more accurate than the rounding that you see in T/S specs on most company's sites. This makes errors for it. Fix this and you'll be golden.

 

[Lanson]

BTW the MRD-M500 was a superior amp at 2ohms mono.

 

[BuBz]

so are you saying i should use the Alpine over the PA?

 

[BuBz]

maybe its me but i just cant seem to get winisd to work proper

 

[Lanson]

Well then just trust my numbers, and build a large 2.3 cubic foot (per sub) box.

The MRD-M500 is a vastly superior amp to Power Acoustik. In this case, it is most superior because the MRD-M500 is a monoblock amp that can run 2ohm, so your plan to parallel your two subs will work. And, work well.

 

[BuBz]

but isn't 2.3 a little small considering on how big the average trunk was when these subs were produced?

 

[monkeybutt]

but isn't 2.3 a little small considering on how big the average trunk was when these subs were produced?

I'll second Fourthmeal's numbers. Box volume net 2.3 cu ft. per sub. F3=50hz at Qtc of .707

 

[benny]

^^those #s look good bubz. And I'll give my vote to the Alpine amp as well. Where is the H-bomb anyway? Hamilton?

Almost forgot, here's your serving: Basic Car Audio Electronics