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Discussion Starter #1
I have 2 JL Audio 10wx subs that I would like to build an enclosure for. I definitely want to do a vented box as I don't have much power for them. They are in a cheap vented box now but it is much too large and tuned much too high. It sounds like crap but I think I will be happy enough with them in the right enclosure. I just don't have any experience modeling subs and I know some of you actually enjoy doing that kind of stuff so I'm asking for your help. I don't know what else to say besides that they are going in an suv so the box size isn't a huge deal and I listen to a lot of rock. Mainly grunge and harder stuff. I love that tight, accurate bass but I would like to get as much output out of these guys as I can while retaining decent SQ. I know there is only so much an entry level sub can do but I'm also aware that a properly designed enclosure can do wonders. Thanks in advance guys. Anything else you need to know, just ask. I'm here all night!

Here are the T/S parameters.

Free Air Resonance (Fs): 29.38 Hz
Electrical “Q” (Qes): 0.471
Mechanical “Q” (Qms): 10.021
Total Speaker “Q” (Qts): 0.450
Equivalent Compliance (Vas): 1.660 cu. ft. / 47.01 liters
One-Way, Linear Excursion (Xmax)*: 0.375 in. / 9.5 mm
Reference Efficiency (no): 0.243%
Efficiency (1W/1m)**: 86.06 dB SPL
Effective Piston Area (Sd): 50.690 sq. in. / 0.0327 sq. m.
DC Resistance (Re): 3.51 ohm
Nominal Impedance (Znom): 4 ohm
Thermal Power Handling (Pt): 200W
Driver Displacement: 0.032 cu. ft. / 0.91 liters
Net Weight: 5.3 lbs. / 2.40 kg
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Would this question have been better in a different area? System design perhaps?
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Could a moderator move this thread somewhere that I may have better luck getting responses?
 

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Ok. Three bumps and before forum will be damned.
Since time, modeling becomes boring and no volunteers here.
For those two speakers you need in 4-5 cubic feet enclosure tuned at 25-28Hz. Two 4” or one 5” round port with approximated length 20” would be ideal.
One 4”x11’’ flared port will be a bit small for bass dedicated tracks.
Speaker has a high Qms and main dampening is being performed due motor’s strength. So you need in amplifier with good headroom to damp excessive electromagnetic induction from speaker.
 

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get a free copy of winISD and model it. it is super easy. you just plug in the specs that you already have and go crazy.
 

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There is a guy on here that will model it for you, find that thread its pretty long. It might say 'box modelling service' or something I forget.

Try adding about 25% to the port length on your box and see what it does, that will tune it lower.
 

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There is a guy on here that will model it for you, find that thread its pretty long. It might say 'box modelling service' or something I forget.

Try adding about 25% to the port length on your box and see what it does, that will tune it lower.

pretty sure he quit. his thread was unstickied and he doesnt reply to it anymore.
 

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pretty sure he quit. his thread was unstickied and he doesnt reply to it anymore.
I kind of wondered when he would get bored, or have to do other things.

WinISD is easy to use you just punch those specs into a driver file and model away. You do have to input them in a certain order there is a couple threads I think a sticky here on that. It calculates some values so you put the rest in first or it gets mad at you. Its free too.
 

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its long story, but he didnt bored. just quit.
 

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I get time on here, and then something comes up and I'm gone for days...just the way it goes and sure it happens to others. Can be the weather, job, projects, etc.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
I get time on here, and then something comes up and I'm gone for days...just the way it goes and sure it happens to others. Can be the weather, job, projects, etc.
precisely. Had to work. Thanks for replying though guys. I have downloaded winISD and have had trouble inputting everything. I got fed up with it and that's when I came to you guys. I'll definitely go back and try again though. I kept getting all kinds of error messages so I gave up for the night. Sorry for the repeated bumping lol. It's just frustrating when you see far more dumb posts being replied to lol.
 

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if you are putting in the T/S specs and it gives you errors when you try to save a driver, take some of the specs out. I ussualy put in .qts and .qms and let it calculate .qes. its always close.
 

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There's a guide to using winisd on the12volt.com. I used it and didn't get any errors. It didn't, however, make me undertstand what i was looking at much better lol. I'm getting a little more that I knew before but I won't be making a living building boxes any time soon.
 

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Yeah it seems it's pretty finnicky as to what specs it will take in what order. I'll check out the guide on 12Volt. I'd really like to make these subs sound as good as I can considering I already have them.
 

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I always leave the qts out unless its the only Q they give. Some values are calculated from others, if the factory rounds them off or lies then it causes a problem. Find one of the guides and use that for entry.

Far as the curve you get you will have to interpret that. In general high at 50Hz will have an SPL sound, and flat to 30Hz will have more of an SQ sound. A larger peak will be harder to deal with. If you have a sub model that and compare, you can see what frequency another sub will give more. You can click and drag on the box in that tab and change the size and tuning for vented.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Thanks Sqshoestring. I was able to get it working by using a guide and have had some fun with it but I don't understand it much just as I expected I wouldn't. I am definitely going for MORE of a SQ sound, however I don't want to sacrifice too much SPL. I came up with a graph where it crosses the purple line at about 32 HZ and the red line at about 43Hz. It never gets above 1 db above the red line and stays fairly even with it (No peaks) until it begins to fall off a bit in the 70 Hz range. Does this sound like what I should be looking for?
 

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Thanks Sqshoestring. I was able to get it working by using a guide and have had some fun with it but I don't understand it much just as I expected I wouldn't. I am definitely going for MORE of a SQ sound, however I don't want to sacrifice too much SPL. I came up with a graph where it crosses the purple line at about 32 HZ and the red line at about 43Hz. It never gets above 1 db above the red line and stays fairly even with it (No peaks) until it begins to fall off a bit in the 70 Hz range. Does this sound like what I should be looking for?
If you are doing sealed, it will always roll off just a matter of how much. With vented it unloads under tuning so tuning has to be low enough for you.

When you see it drop 3dB you will hear that, about that time you need to EQ it. Note you can add a crossover a low pass (though I rarely bother on a model), so the 3 dB only really applies to the bottom end. More than 3 dB you will need big boost or bass boost to get it back up, unless your car has a pile of cabin gain. With 10s you are doing good to hit 35Hz without a lot of dB drop if I understand you right, than might not be bad at all for them. Is the purple -3dB? That is about what you will hear to without EQ, it will go away under that...depending on the car's cabin gain.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
If you are doing sealed, it will always roll off just a matter of how much. With vented it unloads under tuning so tuning has to be low enough for you.

When you see it drop 3dB you will hear that, about that time you need to EQ it. Note you can add a crossover a low pass (though I rarely bother on a model), so the 3 dB only really applies to the bottom end. More than 3 dB you will need big boost or bass boost to get it back up, unless your car has a pile of cabin gain. With 10s you are doing good to hit 35Hz without a lot of dB drop if I understand you right, than might not be bad at all for them. Is the purple -3dB? That is about what you will hear to without EQ, it will go away under that...depending on the car's cabin gain.
Yeah, the purple is -3db. When it begins to roll off in the 70 Hz range, it is very gradual. Like I said, it never gets 1 db above flat and then starts to roll off gradually until well after 100 hz so I don't think I would need any eq there. It looks like there is only a 1.9 db drop in the 35 hz range. This is all in a 2.4 cf enclosure with 28 hz tuning. It sounds like awfully low tuning to me, but from the looks of the graph, it should give a fairly flat response. If I knew how to do a screenshot and post it I would, so you could see all of this and understand it better.
 
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