DiyMobileAudio.com Car Stereo Forum banner

1 - 14 of 14 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
8 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
I have a 500 rms watt pioneer amp for my pioneer shallow sub right now and have ordered a 1600 rms watt amp to run a power acoustik mofo 152x that I am going to add to my system and what do you guys think about adding either a capacitor or an extra battery? I have a 2003 Chrysler Sebring.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,775 Posts
Battery.
Caps have been shown...and shown... To be useless other than filtering noise. They make good trunk Bling though. I got my chops busted on that when I first joined. Lol

That being said, a better alternater could also be in the loop. It's what provides the power. A battery is good for ignition off listening and reserve.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,921 Posts
For as much as a good battery costs, you could probably upgrade your alternator instead. Caps are a waste of money.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,665 Posts
Neither. Make sure your wiring ("big 3") can handle it and that your grounds are good. If things dim, get a better alternator. Your alternator should be powering the system, not the battery.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,674 Posts
What brand of amp? Also, it depends if you are going to be playing the system with the car on or off.

Playing system with car driving = upgrade alternator
Playing system with car off = upgrade battery

Both would be the best.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
12,054 Posts
Why do anything before the "problem" you are trying to solve exists?
exactly. if you want to do it by the numbers, I could work it up and tell you what alternator to get. but if your headlights dont dim and your battery stays charged. then you wont need to do anything.


and as others have said. caps have VERY limited uses. they are good for bling and voltage meter (although you can get a much cheaper voltage meter) if you add a battery on a system that is already not keeping up, you will make it worse since the battery will add another load on the alternator.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
17,149 Posts
Yup, and I've seen people add battery after battery and still not solve a dimming light issue. This is largely dependent on the internal resistance of the battery. Starting batteries really don't have that low of an internal resistance, they WILL sag. Transients in music are a wonderful thing aren't they?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
12,054 Posts
complettely agree. The dimming will come from voltage loss, plain and simple. if the alternator is putting out 14.4V and then the bass hits, overpowers the alternator and drags it down to 12V(battery voltage), then you will see a headlight dimming. doesnt matter if you have 1 extra battery or 20. if the alternator is not up to the task, then more batteries will not help.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
396 Posts
I'm not sure if anyone will agree with me on this, but from experience, "higher quality amps" eliminated essentially all my dimming, in addition to upgrading the big 3.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
17,149 Posts
complettely agree. The dimming will come from voltage loss, plain and simple. if the alternator is putting out 14.4V and then the bass hits, overpowers the alternator and drags it down to 12V(battery voltage), then you will see a headlight dimming. doesnt matter if you have 1 extra battery or 20. if the alternator is not up to the task, then more batteries will not help.
Let's put a wicked system in a prius, using the HV batteries, driving pro amps with switching power supplies.....

Like some badass Powersofts... you cold dismantle a small car with that.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
17,149 Posts
I'm not sure if anyone will agree with me on this, but from experience, "higher quality amps" eliminated essentially all my dimming, in addition to upgrading the big 3.
There's a lot to be said about adequate rail filtering in amplifiers. :D
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
12,054 Posts
I'm not sure if anyone will agree with me on this, but from experience, "higher quality amps" eliminated essentially all my dimming, in addition to upgrading the big 3.
sorry, wont agree complettely with that one. if your alternator can supply 100A and you have 120A draw, the regulator will do it best, but in the end you will go to battery voltage.(12v)

only thing a higher end amplifier might have is more internal stiffening, so it will have a larger reserve of current for transients. This is no different than adding a 1F cap. this WILL stop dimming of lights, because it evens out the current surges, but ultimately it does not solve your problem.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
216 Posts
I should note that 120 amps is a HUGE AMOUNT OF POWER. That may be the total of all the fuses of all your amps, but the amount of times you'll actually be drawing that much is - well I hope never - unless you are in an SPL competition or something. You ears would burst long before your alternator. To put it in perspective, that many amps would be like stringting together anywhere from 6 to 10 car horns and blasting them all at once, all concentrated into one small area. I've got I think 110 amps total worth of amps in my car. 110 amp is also my stock alternator. After big 3, I have never had any issues with dimming lights or voltage drops with the one time exception when my girl decided it was too cold in the car and blasted the heat to max setting (and the fan too), headlights going at the same time. Even then, no dimming lights, although the alternator sounded like it a small animal being murdered until I turned the heat down.

"The views expressed here are mine and do not reflect the official opinion of my employer or the organization through which the Internet was accessed."
 
1 - 14 of 14 Posts
Top