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I was going to explain the charging system being insufficient too but the quote Jroo posted explained it way better than I could have. After learning about an agm needing a specific charging profile I now know I'll probably never run another one in a vehicle unless it came with one from the factory. My truck came with a wet battery and periodic voltage checks while driving have showed it never gets over 14v. In previous trucks I've seen nearly 16v from the alty when under heavy demand on a volt meter in the cab. I have an agm as the cranking/acc battery in my boat but I also have an onboard charger designed for it that makes sure it's fully charged before the next trip. A wet battery will be going in my truck when the time comes.
Just get an aftermarket high output alternator, most of us around here need one of those anyway.
 

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Just get an aftermarket high output alternator, most of us around here need one of those anyway.
I might if my stock alty goes out but have never had to replace one. My system is designed where a factory truck alty does just fine. Fronts don't pull that much and only 600rms to the sub that's pulled way down from full potential for blending purposes. I bet I could put a 50a fuse under the hood and never blow it even at full MUSICAL volume.
 

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I might if my stock alty goes out but have never had to replace one. My system is designed where a factory truck alty does just fine. Fronts don't pull that much and only 600rms to the sub that's pulled way down from full potential for blending purposes. I bet I could put a 50a fuse under the hood and never blow it even at full MUSICAL volume.
Yeah, I have a theoretical 6400 watts on a stock 105 amp alternator with 2 batteries, pulling through a 300 amp fuse. The alternator dies in about 10 year intervals. But I do need a bigger alternator because the stock electrical system seems to pull about 107 amps with everything on.
 

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So, I'm going to give a suggestion for an agm with data gathered from the bass boat forum. No clue how they would do for car audio but I promise you most of the guys using these batteries cycle them WAY harder than most car audio people would and they hold up. The Duracell agm is excellent for the money. Sam's carries them. I have a group 31 interstate agm in my boat that's there just in case I need to run lights and/or aerators all day or night and STILL crank the big motor on the back when I need to. And it damn near killed me getting it in there it's so heavy! Been in there about 3 years and I'm sure it still has at least that many years left in it. I also have a PROPER charger for it. And the two wet batteries for the 24v trolling motor also have a PROPER charging profile from my upgraded 3 bank smart charger. Trojan and Deka are good too. Whichever agm you choose MAKE SURE your charging system will charge it PROPERLY. If it won't then just get the best wet cranking battery you can find/afford and keep it maintained.
 

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So, I'm going to give a suggestion for an agm with data gathered from the bass boat forum. No clue how they would do for car audio but I promise you most of the guys using these batteries cycle them WAY harder than most car audio people would and they hold up. The Duracell agm is excellent for the money. Sam's carries them. I have a group 31 interstate agm in my boat that's there just in case I need to run lights and/or aerators all day or night and STILL crank the big motor on the back when I need to. And it damn near killed me getting it in there it's so heavy! Been in there about 3 years and I'm sure it still has at least that many years left in it. I also have a PROPER charger for it. And the two wet batteries for the 24v trolling motor also have a PROPER charging profile from my upgraded 3 bank smart charger. Trojan and Deka are good too. Whichever agm you choose MAKE SURE your charging system will charge it PROPERLY. If it won't then just get the best wet cranking battery you can find/afford and keep it maintained.


I completely agree with this!!!

Most people are purely using their alternator to charge AGM after a long listening session with the engine off. This puts a lot of strain on the battery. The battery could be deep cycled but they have to be charged at a specific voltage and amperage. Anything below 10amps and 13-15v is good. But an alternator doesn't do this. It dumps way more amps on an empty battery. This fast charge will destroy AGM batteries.

I use a Noico Genius G7200 to keep my battery happy. It's smart enough to maintain the battery and desulfate during maintenance mode. I have a quick connect plug mounted to the front of my bumper.





There will be times when you're away from home and can't plug one in after a listening session somewhere but those times should be rare. You could also bring the charger with you.

Having this charger keeps my battery at 100% SOC which keeps them healthy in the long run.


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I completely agree with this!!!

Most people are purely using their alternator to charge AGM after a long listening session with the engine off. This puts a lot of strain on the battery. The battery could be deep cycled but they have to be charged at a specific voltage and amperage. Anything below 10amps and 13-15v is good. But an alternator doesn't do this. It dumps way more amps on an empty battery. This fast charge will destroy AGM batteries.

I use a Noico Genius G7200 to keep my battery happy. It's smart enough to maintain the battery and desulfate during maintenance mode. I have a quick connect plug mounted to the front of my bumper.





There will be times when you're away from home and can't plug one in after a listening session somewhere but those times should be rare. You could also bring the charger with you.

Having this charger keeps my battery at 100% SOC which keeps them healthy in the long run.


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I have a 3 bank MinnKota smart charger in the boat that does 6 amps per bank. I leave it plugged in 24/7 when at the house.
 

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What does this mean?
Looking past his d-baggery I think he means to make sure you're not paying extra for a pretty sticker. You can literally buy the same exact battery at vastly different price points. Only difference is the sticker on the top.
 

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Sigh that's such an ignorant comment. He doesn't even know what the technical difference between certain batteries are.


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bought a red top back in mid 2016.. sitting at 12.5 looks like it's gonna last just long enough to go out of warranty.



Sounds like I got decent amount of life out of this thing than most people do these days. Don't buy one.
Get that NOCO G7200 charger and run the recovery mode on it a few times. 12.5 v is barely off from the 12.6 v that a RedTop should rest at. It just needs a little love.
 

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What voltage does the G7200 charge at? Is it the 14.7V or above recommended for AGMs?
 

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I ran a Yellowtop in my Cobra forever. It lasted 9 years under heavy audio use (and racing as well). It never died or left me stranded. I loved it so much that I just put another one in my truck. Nothing but success with Optima here. I will always praise them until I find a battery that doesn't perform as it advertises.
 

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What's the problem with the battery being at 80% SOC?

From Optima's website:
"For regular charging, we recommend a maximum of 10 amps, 13.8 to 15.0 volts. For float charging, we recommend one amp maximum, 13.2 to 13.8 volts."
From reading this guys post and doing some research after reading, this is basically what kills the AGM. He said optima got a bad name over the last few years and most of it coming from people that had them years back and then go a new one and it died. He says the old one probably did better and lasted longer because it was an older car and older charging system. He is saying that modern car charging systems are not giving enough amps to get the AGM battery to 100%. If the agm, specifically optima are only getting to 80% SOC, they die early. This is why we hear so many people say my new Optima lasted 2 to 3 years and took a dump versus my old one last 7 or 8 years. In a nutshell my take was unless you are going to do all the battery protocol and know your charging system is up to task, you will waste money on an AGM and will kill them every few years.

I was basically in this boat. My old red top lasted close to 8 years in a variety of cars. I would basically just swap it out to whatever I bought. The last red top I got lasted close to two years and one day was dead as a doornail. Again this was in my newer Volvo versus my old VWs and Nissans. He is saying it was the optimas fault, it was the fault of the Volvo charging system. Who knows.
 

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From reading this guys post and doing some research after reading, this is basically what kills the AGM. He said optima got a bad name over the last few years and most of it coming from people that had them years back and then go a new one and it died. He says the old one probably did better and lasted longer because it was an older car and older charging system. He is saying that modern car charging systems are not giving enough amps to get the AGM battery to 100%. If the agm, specifically optima are only getting to 80% SOC, they die early. This is why we hear so many people say my new Optima lasted 2 to 3 years and took a dump versus my old one last 7 or 8 years. In a nutshell my take was unless you are going to do all the battery protocol and know your charging system is up to task, you will waste money on an AGM and will kill them every few years.



I was basically in this boat. My old red top lasted close to 8 years in a variety of cars. I would basically just swap it out to whatever I bought. The last red top I got lasted close to two years and one day was dead as a doornail. Again this was in my newer Volvo versus my old VWs and Nissans. He is saying it was the optimas fault, it was the fault of the Volvo charging system. Who knows.


My optima died bc I used my alt to charge it. So keep doing research.


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I'll keep this short.

Ppl who play music in their charge while the engine is off for an hour then drive the car around to charge it will kill the battery due to the alt using too much amperage to charge the battery.

Also, ppl who don't drive their cars for weeks with a parasitic draw will also kill their battery. Bc, when they do start their car up they end up charging the battery with the alt at high amps.

My battery did not die from my alternator not putting out 14.8v. I just don't want people to guess what was my issue. Get yourself a charger to properly maintain your car if you want it to last.


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