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I've had excellent luck upgrading all my batteries in all my vehicles (and any vehicle I build on) with Bosch Platinum AGM batteries, the blue top ones with 4 year unconditional un-prorated full replacement warranties. They are usually the same price as a premium lead-acid battery at Pep Boys (in fact it might be the only thing I'd buy from them) but the batteries have held up so far.



Optima, on the other hand, has been a disappointment. Back about 10 years ago, I'd say they were the bomb-diggity. While I sympathize with the discussion on modern charging systems, I don't think that's entirely the problem. A quality charger does go a long way, though. Great points there.
 

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I've had excellent luck upgrading all my batteries in all my vehicles (and any vehicle I build on) with Bosch Platinum AGM batteries, the blue top ones with 4 year unconditional un-prorated full replacement warranties. They are usually the same price as a premium lead-acid battery at Pep Boys (in fact it might be the only thing I'd buy from them) but the batteries have held up so far.



Optima, on the other hand, has been a disappointment. Back about 10 years ago, I'd say they were the bomb-diggity. While I sympathize with the discussion on modern charging systems, I don't think that's entirely the problem. A quality charger does go a long way, though. Great points there.


I'm using the same battery as you.

Need more time on them to see if they're any good. But for half the price of an XSpower battery I'm not going to complain much even if it dies after 3 years. Because I'll be getting a new one from them

I got mine for $180 without returning a core. How long have you had it?

Btw I used a CCA tester on this thing and it puts out over 1000 CCA at full charge.


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My Bosh only lasted about 18 months in my 2013 Ford Escape. I didn’t realize that the smart charging system could be the problem.

Who does Johnson controls make batteries for?
 

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I'm using the same battery as you.

Need more time on them to see if they're any good. But for half the price of an XSpower battery I'm not going to complain much even if it dies after 3 years. Because I'll be getting a new one from them

I got mine for $180 without returning a core. How long have you had it?

Btw I used a CCA tester on this thing and it puts out over 1000 CCA at full charge.


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Well my factory Durango battery (an AGM) lasted only 13 months or so before I replaced that one with my first Bosch Platinum AGM. And I had that car another 20ish months before trading it in. The other cars (a Mazda 6, a 2009 Flex, my WRX) all have been under a year so there's not enough data. But little things like, the starter in the WRX sounds much more eager to actually start the damn thing now, gives me hope. I also appreciate the clean aesthetic of this battery. If it does die in 4 years, the replacement service will be used and I'll get my ~$175 out of it for sure.
 

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I'm still running a Yellow top installed in December 2005, that's what 13.5 years old.

I also live north of Toronto.

I also keep it all fed via added 1/0 power wire and grounds.

I also run 3 amps + DSP

I've also seen guys blow the tops of their yellow tops!

Glean what you can from this.
 

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I'm still running a Yellow top installed in December 2005, that's what 13.5 years old.

I also live north of Toronto.

I also keep it all fed via added 1/0 power wire and grounds.

I also run 3 amps + DSP

I've also seen guys blow the tops of their yellow tops!

Glean what you can from this.



Ooooh I did that once. It was 2006, I accidentally hard-charged a Yellowtop full steam overnight (like 13 amps) instead of trickle-charging it. It was in an Ultimate Electronics audio bay and I pretty much smoked the whole bay out with sulfur-smelling clouds. NOT good! That actually was my last good Yellowtop
 

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Hey guys, what benefit could I see by replacing the car battery with a high performance battery? I run 2000 watts in Dodge Dart and I can't fully turn up the sound or the dash lights shut off and all sorts of stuff like that happens. I want a high output alternator but I don't plan on keeping the car much longer. Should I just replace the battery, since that can go to the next car?
 

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What battery are you running right now? The batteries may be able to help the alternator a bit but it really depends on what you have now and how bad it is.

An AGM battery has lower internal resistance so it's more happy to give you power when you need it. But the problem is that if you're constantly taking more than what you could put back in, you'll end up straining both the battery and the alternator.

It's more of a bandaid than a true solution, which is getting a high output alt.


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What battery are you running right now? The batteries may be able to help the alternator a bit but it really depends on what you have now and how bad it is.

An AGM battery has lower internal resistance so it's more happy to give you power when you need it. But the problem is that if you're constantly taking more than what you could put back in, you'll end up straining both the battery and the alternator.

It's more of a bandaid than a true solution, which is getting a high output alt.


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Thanks for that, I wouldn't know. It was probably the most affordable one at O'Reilly. Here's a picture, I obviously upgraded the alternator and ground wires.
 

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I have had 2 of the newer yellow tops for 2 years now with no issues. I have major current draw with all the crap in my car. Factory alt too but I do put them on a smart charger every week or so, especially after shows where Ill typically have a ton of led lighting on. Guess I'm lucky so far.....
 

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Thanks for that, I wouldn't know. It was probably the most affordable one at O'Reilly. Here's a picture, I obviously upgraded the alternator and ground wires.


Yeah so that battery has a really low CCA of only 500amps. You could get somewhere like 1000 switching to a quality AGM battery.


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I have had 2 of the newer yellow tops for 2 years now with no issues. I have major current draw with all the crap in my car. Factory alt too but I do put them on a smart charger every week or so, especially after shows where Ill typically have a ton of led lighting on. Guess I'm lucky so far.....

Indeed you may be! I installed a Yellowtop in my father's 2002 C5 Vette when I built his system in 2016 (if I recall), and a few months ago he let me know that despite that car sitting in the garage under a storage cover most of its life, the battery had to be replaced. Of course we all know that lack of maintenance probably killed that one (should have been on a smart trickle charger), the expectation is that they will last at least 3 years with moderate use/abuse. But then again, I knew it would be deep cycling so that's why I put a Yellowtop in it in the first place.
 

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Deep cycle batteries are intended to be used then charged right up right after they're used. Not left at low voltage for too long. The battery will begin to sulfate and crystalize.


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That's right.... NO battery does well when left to discharge and STAY discharged.
 

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That's right.... NO battery does well when left to discharge and STAY discharged.
Agreed, which means if it’s top is yellow or red in color and it’s made by Optima than no one should blame the brand regardless, but they do sometimes I guess. :rolleyes:
 

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I believe it maxes out at 16.5 v (pulses) in recovery mode, but I haven't seen anything higher than 14.7 v in AGM charge mode.
I think I'm going to get one of those Noco Genius chargers, but I don't think I have need of the 7.2A for $100. I can easily get by with the 3.5A for $60, I think. I will only use it to top off my single AGM in the Z or the Tahoe as needed. This will usually be an overnight charge, or even for several days or weeks at a time. Is there any other difference between them? They look to have essentially the same features, as far as I can tell. For an extra $40, is it really needed? I do see the spot on the 7200 that says "Repair 1.5A" which is the same as the 3500, but the thing I'm wondering about is the "Supply 5A" @13.6V... I'm not sure what that is. It sounds like it's meant to keep your car's electrical supplied if you hook it up and remove the battery?

I've been waiting to pull the trigger on an AGM battery, I think I'm going to go with the Northstar Group 35 over the Odyssey Extreme like I put in my truck (Tahoe is a Group 34/78). It's about $40 cheaper, shipped, and tests just a hair better from what I can find.
 

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I do see the spot on the 7200 that says "Repair 1.5A" which is the same as the 3500, but the thing I'm wondering about is the "Supply 5A" @13.6V... I'm not sure what that is. It sounds like it's meant to keep your car's electrical supplied if you hook it up and remove the battery?
Exactly, or to supply power for tuning.
I think I'm gonna have to upgrade to the G15000 or the G26000, my system draws 8.4 amps idle current.
 

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I think I'm going to get one of those Noco Genius chargers, but I don't think I have need of the 7.2A for $100. I can easily get by with the 3.5A for $60, I think. I will only use it to top off my single AGM in the Z or the Tahoe as needed. This will usually be an overnight charge, or even for several days or weeks at a time. Is there any other difference between them? They look to have essentially the same features, as far as I can tell. For an extra $40, is it really needed? I do see the spot on the 7200 that says "Repair 1.5A" which is the same as the 3500, but the thing I'm wondering about is the "Supply 5A" @13.6V... I'm not sure what that is. It sounds like it's meant to keep your car's electrical supplied if you hook it up and remove the battery?



I've been waiting to pull the trigger on an AGM battery, I think I'm going to go with the Northstar Group 35 over the Odyssey Extreme like I put in my truck (Tahoe is a Group 34/78). It's about $40 cheaper, shipped, and tests just a hair better from what I can find.
Get the G7300 man. It charges it twice as fast. I got both the G3500 and G7300. I love the G7300.

Nooooooo never use that mode to supply power to the battery for "tuning". If you use that to power the car without a battery it's no where near enough to keep a couple bulbs on. It's only 5A. That's nothing compared to the demand of your car's electrical demands.

I already emailed their support team. They informed me to never use supply mode like that. It's for you to test stuff. It's useful to say you want to test a head unit you could use that mode to supply power to the head unit that's out of the car.

Also never attach the battery charger while the car is on (not engine on) and drawing power. Their charger comes with processor that constantly monitors the voltage of the battery so you may be messing with the readings and the charger will not be charging the battery properly.

Don't do it guys.


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Nooooooo never use that mode to supply power to the battery for "tuning". If you use that to power the car without a battery it's no where near enough to keep a couple bulbs on. It's only 5A. That's nothing compared to the demand of your car's electrical demands.
I use power supply mode *with* the battery hooked up, but not since an amp change that pushed my draw to over 5 amps.
 
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