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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Thinking about an external processor to work with a factory system.

I may run 3 separate channels (tweets, mids, and sub) or just two channels (passive crossover to component set, and a subwoofer)
 

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How big of hurry are you in? There are some DSP's coming to the market from Cadence and Massive that may be reasonably priced. JL Audio is also coming out with an OEM integration piece but won't be out until later in the year.

You can also look out for a used Audison Bit.Ten, RF 360.3, or PPI DEQ8.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 · (Edited)
I would like eq for all channels and active ability if possible, but in truth, I don't have to have an active setup.

My car will not be totally sound dampened and the position of the speakers on the front doors suck acoustically anyways.

My main idea would be to eq and crossover the signals before they get to the amp.

The stereo I want to use actually is a factory dead-head and has low level outputs from a 13 pin din cable that originally went to the factory amp that can be converted to RCA outputs, which is what I plan on doing.

The main problem is that there is zero eq or crossovers on the head unit. The factory amp has an eq circuit and crossovers built into it but it isn't very powerful. It is a very high quality transport though and it is a 6 disc in dash changer and radio unit.
 

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Minidsp 2x4 can be had with the required mini dc for car audio and advanced tune plug-in for around $140 shipped to your door. You can either go passive up front and have processing for the sub with the other pair of outputs or go active up front and send an unprocessed signal to the sub. Not the best way to go but it's an inexpensive and reliable unit.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I think the passive up front with processing for the sub and eq for both will sound best in my situation.

that little dsp 2x4 might be a great solution.

so, I just run one pair of RCA's from the headunit to the DSP and it splits, eq's, crosses-over and mods the signals for a front output and a sub output, right?

What all do I need to go along with it?

Is the software easy to use?
 

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All you need is a single rca cable from the headunit.

You will need the mini dc for car audio to make it work. I believe it isolates the processor from the rest of the electrical system to prevent noise. And make sure you get the advanced plug-in. The amount of power this unit has in the eq and crossovers will blow your mind. Software is about as straightforward as it gets.
 

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All you need is a single rca cable from the headunit.

You will need the mini dc for car audio to make it work. I believe it isolates the processor from the rest of the electrical system to prevent noise. And make sure you get the advanced plug-in. The amount of power this unit has in the eq and crossovers will blow your mind. Software is about as straightforward as it gets.
The miniDC gives isolated 12V power and also provides a remote relay for turning on amps. miniDSP works very well and lots of advice here as a resource. A little more DIY than others, but it is a small unit with lots of features. There are two 2x4 minDSP's. You would want the "Balanced" rather than "Unbalanced" The balanced can take a higher input voltage and is designed to be mounted. The wiring uses phoenix connectors, rather than RCA, but you can cut the cable or make an adapter. I just cut some female RCA interconnects.

The software is easy to use and makes sense the way it is laid out.

If you get some RTA software and a calibrated mic (less than $20 bucks) you can really jump in to custom tuning

Shipped quickly, too, even from Hong Kong.
 
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