DiyMobileAudio.com Car Stereo Forum banner

1 - 12 of 12 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
12 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Hi,

I am in need of some assistance picking equipment for my 2010 Mazda 6. Most of the suggestions I am finding online are fairly outdated.

I am looking for something that would not overpower my stock ~110A alternator. SQ is not a high priority for me. I am looking at the Fi SSD 15 but it is a little pricey and I am concerned that 1250RMS would be too much power for my stock electrical system. I would be open to two 12" subs but from what I can see that would be much more expensive. Any suggestions or advice would be appreciated.

Thanks
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
205 Posts
How much space/volume for your box? Ported? Sealed? IB? Budget?l

We need more info before anyone can give you a real recommendation.

Josh
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
12 Posts
Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
How much space/volume for your box? Ported? Sealed? IB? Budget?l

We need more info before anyone can give you a real recommendation.

Josh
I would like to keep it near 4-5 CuFt as it needs to fit in my sedan's trunk. Ported, no IB. For the sub alone I wouldn't like to go much higher than $200 unless there is a big price to performance gain. If you would be willing to suggest a whole setup with amp and box I'm looking to go to ~$600.

Thank you!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
205 Posts
First, I'm not a SPL guy, so take this with a grain of salt, but here's what I would do.

1 15" Fi XV3 on 700-800 RMS in a custom ported box. I'm unable to model it right now, but download WINISD and play around with enclosure size and tuning frequency.

What I like about the sub is the 27mm of xmax and the power rating works as well. 110A is fine for 1000 watts as long as you're not just doing sine wave burps for extended periods of time. On music, you'll be good. Just watch the voltage drop and if it gets to low, turn it down a bit. Also remember 750W to 1500W is only a 3db(just noticable) increase in loudness. 750 should be fine if your not competing in SPL.

Josh

PS. I would definitely look into a custom built box and not a prefab. It doesn't have to be expensive, but you want to make sure it's built well.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
101 Posts
For cheap.
Skar ddx15 $180
Skar LP 1000.1 $160

Little more.
The FI audio mentioned is very good.

You can also grab a sundown b stock sa15 for $214 at car audio bargain, they are out of stock so you'll need to wait a bit.

Do you have the big 3 upgrade or a second battery?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
12 Posts
Discussion Starter #9 (Edited)
For cheap.
Skar ddx15 $180
Skar LP 1000.1 $160

Little more.
The FI audio mentioned is very good.

You can also grab a sundown b stock sa15 for $214 at car audio bargain, they are out of stock so you'll need to wait a bit.

Do you have the big 3 upgrade or a second battery?
My electrical system is 100% stock. I should have enough wire to beef up a few connetions though. And what has more SPL potential?

SA-15, DDX15, or a Fi XV3 15 all given 1000w RMS. I'm guessing the Fi due to higher Xmax?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,743 Posts
My electrical system is 100% stock. I should have enough wire to beef up a few connetions though. And what has more SPL potential?

SA-15, DDX15, or a Fi XV3 15 all given 1000w RMS. I'm guessing the Fi due to higher Xmax?
While I'm certainly no expert, I suppose that would very likely be the case if it were IB or sealed. However, with vented the cone barely moves at Fb (tuning frequency).

Your best bet to determine/compare SPL potential would be to model all three.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6,943 Posts
Highest SPL potential may not be useful, and even then you'd need to model each sub in various enclosures to know for sure anyway. Since you are trying to avoid taxing your electrical system you need the sub that will get loudest off of the least amount of power, so sensitivity will be an important spec to look at. Some of those will get louder than others, but require a lot more power, and strain the electrical system in the process.
 
1 - 12 of 12 Posts
Top