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Discussion Starter #1
Hi everyone,

I been doing incremental changes to improve the supposedly "premium" audio in my 2019 civic Si. It's loud enough but frankly, I didn't enjoy it. At anything more than half volume I find the mid and highs unclean. It's almost painful. The stock sub is also a joke. According to a very long discussion on another forum, the sub only plays 10-40hz. You can't really hear it much.

I would like to just replace some speakers. The factory amp gets loud enough.

My first step was replacing the overly sensitive center channel by a small 4 inch Vifa full range speaker. I then replaced the tweeters with Dayton ND20s which perfectly fit in the sails. As soon as the weather gets warmer, I will deaden the doors and replace the stock woofers by 6 inch SB Acoustics sb17mfc35-4 that I already have. Simply replacing the tweeters has already made a world of difference.

I'm now looking to add a subwoofer. I'm looking for something civilized and musical that would just add to what I have. I'm 45 now and pretty much done with my basshead days.

Many people have used audiocontrol lc2i hooked up to the front speaker lines with some varying degré of success. I was thinking of getting either an Lc6i or lc7i to be able to sum signals from the front and sub. I don't know if bass rolloff is an issue with these cars, I find it hard to determine. Any experience here?

For the sub itself, I have an old Phoenix gold Tantrum T500.2 that I can bridge to 4 ohms for 400 to 500 rms. I could maybe replace the amp but I'd like to try this one first. I'm looking for either a 10 or 12 inch sub that can go in a smallish sealed enclosure and blend somewhat well with the front speakers off the factory amp. I've looked at options like the Dayton HO/HF and there is maybe SB acoustics' SB34. I can look at "true" car audio subs as well.

Any help would be appreciated. I know this is not the super high end stuff that is discussed here but I'm on a family budget :)

Thanks!

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Discussion Starter #2
Just to add.. I'm open to used equipment if anyone has anything to offer in good condition. I'm located in Canada so this restricts the choices a bit due to shipping and dollar value

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Hi everyone,

I been doing incremental changes to improve the supposedly "premium" audio in my 2019 civic Si. It's loud enough but frankly, I didn't enjoy it. At anything more than half volume I find the mid and highs unclean. It's almost painful. The stock sub is also a joke. According to a very long discussion on another forum, the sub only plays 10-40hz. You can't really hear it much.

I would like to just replace some speakers. The factory amp gets loud enough.

My first step was replacing the overly sensitive center channel by a small 4 inch Vifa full range speaker. I then replaced the tweeters with Dayton ND20s which perfectly fit in the sails. As soon as the weather gets warmer, I will deaden the doors and replace the stock woofers by 6 inch SB Acoustics sb17mfc35-4 that I already have. Simply replacing the tweeters has already made a world of difference.

I'm now looking to add a subwoofer. I'm looking for something civilized and musical that would just add to what I have. I'm 45 now and pretty much done with my basshead days.

Many people have used audiocontrol lc2i hooked up to the front speaker lines with some varying degré of success. I was thinking of getting either an Lc6i or lc7i to be able to sum signals from the front and sub. I don't know if bass rolloff is an issue with these cars, I find it hard to determine. Any experience here?

For the sub itself, I have an old Phoenix gold Tantrum T500.2 that I can bridge to 4 ohms for 400 to 500 rms. I could maybe replace the amp but I'd like to try this one first. I'm looking for either a 10 or 12 inch sub that can go in a smallish sealed enclosure and blend somewhat well with the front speakers off the factory amp. I've looked at options like the Dayton HO/HF and there is maybe SB acoustics' SB34. I can look at "true" car audio subs as well.

Any help would be appreciated. I know this is not the super high end stuff that is discussed here but I'm on a family budget :)

Thanks!

Sent from my EML-L09 using Tapatalk
I have the Dayton HF 12” in a 1.25 cu ft.sealed box with some poly fill and getting 400 watts rms. It seems to be A good sub. I have only had it for a week but it blends well with my active front stage.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I ended up buying an Alpine MRV-F500 that was on sale for Black Friday. I can feed it 4 channels through the line level input so I'll pickup the front left/right and sub signal at the factory amp. It can automatically turn on when it senses signal so I'll try that and see how it goes. 2 ohm stable so it will be a bit more flexible than my old amp (and probably easier on the stock alternator). It was half the price of an lc7i to use my old amp so this seemed like a no brainer.

I can always add the Lc7i later if it does not work out like I want.

Thanks for the Dayton Hf suggestion, I'll model it along with a few others.

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I dont know about the civics but my accord had an ANC system that you need to bypass. The sub is used for cancelation so if you just tap the signal and upgrade the sub the system doesn't realize what's going on and go unstable. Personally, I would just bypass the entire stock system (leave the center channel for chimes, nav, etc and run the 2way front stage + sub independently from another source (phone). My accord ('15 coupe w/ nav) has the Nav HU so I could tab a flat signal before the factory amp (balanced) and use that as my aftermarket system input. I would look more into this option if you intend to keep and use the factory HU.

Your civic might be too new, but some folks on the honda forums figure out which factory systems have a flat signal and which do not. Someone came up with this harness that can be used for some honda. You mentioned your car has a center channel so something is probably different on your civic and this exact harness wont work.

Another dayton sub to model up would be the Ultimax. They like larger sized sealed enclosure but would cover the low end a bit more (might be too much low end depending on your tastes).
 

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Discussion Starter #6
There was somewhat of a teardown of the premium system on these cars on a civic forum. On the premium system the HU is connected to the factory amp through an optical cable but it's not sending anything standard.

Until someone figures out a way to replace the HU completely while retaining most of the functionality, we are stuck grabbing the analog signals coming out of the factory amp... Now I'm pretty sure I could do better than just adding a small sub and amp, I'm doing this in increments. Part of the fun in car audio is making changes :)

Eventually I may add in a Dsp of some sort and go fully active with an extra amp

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Discussion Starter #7
Thought I could edit my post but it doesn't seem like it.. I wanted to add.... Rather than purchase something too cheap and upgrade later, is the price difference between something like the Dayton Hf or ultimax and something like a scanspeak discovery 10 or 12 worth it?

I originally ignored these because of the low power rating but it seems these ratings are very conservative and can probably take the 300 watts available from the alpine at 4 ohms

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Model up the subs and see where they hit xmax at. They will handle the power, thermally, just fine, just see where they run out of xmax.

If I were to do a super budget system I would do a 5 channel amp with my components bridged on the 4 channels. I'd bypass the factory system and run a phone output to the amp (usb dac would be nice for a little more preamp output). I have this app on my phone called usb audio player pro. It has 10 bands graphic eq and 6 bands of parametric. I think it cost about 10 bucks or something like that.
 
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