[Finleyville]

Anyway...

I am searching for 7 ch. of amplification (100x4, 200x2, 300x1) in two amps only since I have a small hatchback. My space is at a premium. So far the only amps that I have found that are not over 2 feet long with this kind of power is the Xetec line.

However, someone in another thread here mentioned the Lanzar Opti line. It is my understanding that they are a class T amp. Has anyone used or heard any class T amps and were satisified? I would have no problem powering a sub with them but how do these sound on the front stage? All comments are welcome!

 

[dodgerblue]

i dont think lanzar made an all class t 5 or 7 ch amp ,the last lanzar opti line was all class a-b and fer diff class d amps ,if your looking at an amp 3-5-7 channels and it says class t more than likely it means the sub channels are class t and the other channels are class a-b,class t amps are not commonly used for full range high end car set ups,they dont sound horrible by any means but typically have lower damping factor, higher distortion ratings and hi freq roll off ,but are more eff than class a-b driven below its full power,class t is a good choice for driving subs for the eff., reason and watts per dollar, think of them like an class d amp with near full range output

 

[ArcL100]

I haven't been able to find much info on them as to what they are - be it typical class A/B, full-range D, or T. All work just fine. Caraudiosound or whatever it is loved the full-range class D Xtant. http://www.crutchfieldadvisor.com/S-GuDeI3hSPyk/reviews/20040720/tripath_interview.html

-aaron

 

[Finleyville]

i dont think lanzar made an all class t 5 or 7 ch amp. Class t amps are not commonly used for full range high end car set ups,they dont sound horrible by any means but typically have lower damping factor, higher distortion ratings and hi freq roll off ,but are more eff than class a-b driven below its full power,class t is a good choice for driving subs for the eff., reason and watts per dollar, think of them like an class d amp with near full range output

Thanks Dodger. Actually the amp I was looking at is here. 100W x 4 is some high power from an amp that small. It says it uses a switching power supply. I just do know if they mean class D or T.

Thanks for the interesting reading Aaron. If they truely solved the high frequency distortion plaguing the class D amps then it sounds like they have a winner design.

Has anyone actually heard a class T design full range?

 

[Infinity]

Leviathan

That looks interesting enough, but it's all A/B. I don't know what the size specs will be- probably enormous.

 

[Finleyville]

Yeah, that was my first choice. I have been in contact with Mr. Mantz and he outlined the dimensions of 700mm x 302mm x 74mm for the Leviathan. The name pretty much sums up the size. That is why the Xetec line seems a little better for my application. (11" x 11" x 2.5")

But if the class T amps sound just as fine, I could be saving hundreds of dollars. That is why I need to know.

 

[epifant]

AFAIK, there are really no such thing as Class T. They are just Tripath-based Class D-amps. Class D is "as low as it goes".

It really doesn`t mean that much, I just figured it would be ok to get it right. There are too much nonsens in the car-stereo industry that started as loose rumours and have become "truths".

 

[Finleyville]

AFAIK, there are really no such thing as Class T. They are just Tripath-based Class D-amps. Class D is "as low as it goes".

Well if I am reading the above link right, then they characterize class t amps different from class d in one important way. The switching frequency is much, much higher in the class t. (A hybrid class d?) I believe that they contribute this feature (maybe among others) to the "greatly" improved higher frequency response. I think that this gives the tripath less distoration over the entire frequency band compared to a "classic" class d design. But I do not know the degree of improvement over the D designs. I am trying to figure this out.

 

[racerraul]

Anyway...

I am searching for 7 ch. of amplification (100x4, 200x2, 300x1) in two amps only ...

I am guessing you need this much power as follows...

100x4 (Mids & Highs???)
200x2 (Midbass???)
300x1 (subs???)

If so, you could make this easier on you by realizing that 50x4 for mids & highs is plenty of power to drive them into uncomfortable listening levels...

If I am guessing right... I recently bought 2 JL e6450 & I am very pleased with them... thought you might be able to work them into your design if their size allows it...

Here is a review on them...
http://carsound.com/articles/publish/article_268.shtml

 

[Infinity]

Yeah, that was my first choice. I have been in contact with Mr. Mantz and he outlined the dimensions of 700mm x 302mm x 74mm for the Leviathan. The name pretty much sums up the size. That is why the Xetec line seems a little better for my application. (11" x 11" x 2.5")

But if the class T amps sound just as fine, I could be saving hundreds of dollars. That is why I need to know.

Wow, I was thinking about calling for just that info tomorrow. That's entirely too big for where I need to put it, but the power output is right on. What kind of class T amps are you looking at? The only ones I remember were the little Blaupunkts, and they're no longer produced, nor were there any large multichannel configurations that I can recall. C'mon, cough it up, I need the same thing that you're trying to get, but more subwoofer power.

 

[DS-21]

Anyway...

I am searching for 7 ch. of amplification (100x4, 200x2, 300x1) in two amps only since I have a small hatchback. My space is at a premium. So far the only amps that I have found that are not over 2 feet long with this kind of power is the Xetec line.

However, someone in another thread here mentioned the Lanzar Opti line. It is my understanding that they are a class T amp. Has anyone used or heard any class T amps and were satisified? I would have no problem powering a sub with them but how do these sound on the front stage? All comments are welcome!

I was very curious about the Lanzar Opti -D series amps for a while, too. I placed a few calls to Lanzar (Sounds Around) tech support for some info about how they work, what chipset they use, etc. I never was able to get a satisfactory answer, but just going by the power ratings I don't think they're Tripath (i.e. "Class T") chips. Between my inability to get hard information from Sounds Around (I guess they're used to dealing with Pyramid customers...) and my realization that I needed a more flexible onboard crossover, I ended up passing on the Lanzar in favor of a (mostly) more conventional JL slash-series amp. (JL makes nice conventional amps that are relatively compact for their output; Raul's suggestion of the Jello e-series is IMO a good one.)

As for Tripath (or other Class-D) amps sounding good, there's a mini-craze in home audio circles around various digital amps, partly from tubeophiles looking for a face-saving way into modern equipment after having idiotically denigrated solid state for so long and partly from people like me who prefer efficient and elegant solutions over the alternative. As far as sonic penalty, as long as you don't use them stupidly there is none. Here's an interesting bit of propaganda on TI's digital amp chips. I'm quite disappointed that as of yet there are no tiny car amps using the TI PurePath chips, because IMO they've completely turned the price-performance-size equation on its head in home audio.

 

[Finleyville]

... but just going by the power ratings I don't think they're Tripath (i.e. "Class T") chips. I ended up passing on the Lanzar in favor of a (mostly) more conventional JL slash-series amp.

After researching the topic myself I did realize that the Lanzar Opti line is a class D design. I am still curious to hear a class T system though.

The JL slash series is actually my alternate choice. I still may go with them if I can truly believe that 25W is good enough for the Seas Lotus silk tweets run actively. Please someone convince me! Using a JL 500/5 with a bridged JL 300/4 is the only way to closely achieve the power I want in two amps with the JL line. (25W=tweets, 100W=MR, 150W @ 8 ohms = MB, 125W=sub)

As for Tripath (or other Class-D) amps sounding good, there's a mini-craze in home audio circles around various digital amps, partly from tubeophiles looking for a face-saving way into modern equipment after having idiotically denigrated solid state for so long and partly from people like me who prefer efficient and elegant solutions over the alternative. As far as sonic penalty, as long as you don't use them stupidly there is none. Here's an interesting bit of propaganda on TI's digital amp chips.

Thanks for the article. It is very interesting. I guess there has to be some sort of tipping point in the public minds about the quality of these new T amps before they are incorporated into a myriad of product lines.

 

[anders213]

Not very experienced in it. But thought ill put in some thoughts of mine.
2 of the more famous Class T amps are the Zapco C2K 9.0 and the Arc Audio 1500XXK.

I am running the Arc Audio 1500XXK in my system but for sub duties. In terms of efficiency, i think it is pretty good. Its only warm to touch even after an hour of hard hitting 1000W RMS of sub driving.

Let me know if you guys need to know more.

 

[Rbsarve]

Well the Xtant´s would be nice setup of small units, but you do seem to need a lot of channels, which means a lot of amps, since they´re mono. New pioneers are class D and low in height, but not really an SQ choise.

 

[Melodic Acoustic]

I would like to know what drivers you are using. Why, because I have to agree with racerraul. 50 x 4 is more than enough for your mids and highs. At those frequencies you just don't need a ton of power. I know it is nice to have the extra headroom, but in most cases the mids and highs in a 3 way system it is not needed, unless you have some big midranges that have a very low sensitivity. I had to learn this one also. Save myself some money on amps also. For Midbass and subs I say yes get at least max rms rating of the driver. At these frequencies it seem to consume and need a little more power to keep the system dymanics good.

Take a look at the DLS RA40 bridged for the midbasses or the RA20 depending on what midbass drivers you have, the RA20

http://www.dls.se/english/fstark/RA40.htm
http://www.dls.se/english/fstark/RA20.htm

And the RA50 for the Mids, highs, and the sub

http://www.dls.se/english/fstark/RA50.htm

Mark

 

[Finleyville]

I have to agree with racerraul. 50 x 4 is more than enough for your mids and highs. At those frequencies you just don't need a ton of power. For Midbass and subs I say yes get at least max rms rating of the driver. At these frequencies it seem to consume and need a little more power to keep the system dymanics good.

Take a look at the DLS RA40 bridged for the midbasses or the RA20 depending on what midbass drivers you have, the RA20
And the RA50 for the Mids, highs, and the sub
Mark

I am beginning to believe the little current needed for the tweets [Seas Lotus silks or Scan/Alpine] and mids [Trius 3" if I can find them]. I will still need copious amounts of power for my midbass [current 8ohm Adire extremis or Seas nextel]

Among my biggest problems are space constraints and install timeline. I had planned on accumulating everything over the winter and installing it all in one fell swoop. But budget concerns will force me to do this over a long time. Therefore, initially I need: 2x50-100 tweets, 2x150-250 midbass(range). Later, I will add a 8"-10" sub. Finally, I will add the dedicated midrange [Trius 3"] with the second amp while the former midrange drivers will slide to midbass duties. This whole process may take up to two years. So in order to be happy with each stage of the install I have to pick the right parts of the system chronologically. I am afraid that if my first amp purchase is something like 4x50W + 1x200W then my midrange drivers will be underpowered like my Seas Lotus 6.5 w/ 75W to them in my other car.

The DLS reference line looks fine if I could find prices. The power and size both match what I am looking for.

So far the amps I am considering:
Xetec Gravity 4x110, 2x250, 1x390 $1200
JL Audio slash 2x25, 2x100, 2x150, 1x250 $900 ebay
DLS reference 4x50, 2x220, 1x250 $?????

Any other ideas?

 

[racerraul]

2 Alpine MRV-F345 (50x2 tweets & 300x1 L midbass) (50x2 mids & R 300x1 midbass)
1 Alpine MRD-M605 (400x1 4ohm, 600x1 2ohm subs)
< $900

or

2 Diamond Audio D3 400.4 (50x4 mids & highs) (200x2 midbass) 4ohms
1 Diamond Audio D3 400.2 (400x1 subs 4ohm)
<$800 (Lifetime Warranty authorized)

 

[Rbsarve]

I would use two Celestra Ra475 amps or four Ra275´s for that system. It´s one lovely performer in a compact shell, haven´t seen it in the US though. We sell the 475 for just below $1000 in Sweden.

www.celestra.it

 

[dodgerblue]

those clestra,s look nice int. rect. -ir components pretty cool, bummer we might not see them in the us.

 

[Melodic Acoustic]

I am beginning to believe the little current needed for the tweets [Seas Lotus silks or Scan/Alpine] and mids [Trius 3" if I can find them]. I will still need copious amounts of power for my midbass [current 8ohm Adire extremis or Seas nextel]

Among my biggest problems are space constraints and install timeline. I had planned on accumulating everything over the winter and installing it all in one fell swoop. But budget concerns will force me to do this over a long time. Therefore, initially I need: 2x50-100 tweets, 2x150-250 midbass(range). Later, I will add a 8"-10" sub. Finally, I will add the dedicated midrange [Trius 3"] with the second amp while the former midrange drivers will slide to midbass duties. This whole process may take up to two years. So in order to be happy with each stage of the install I have to pick the right parts of the system chronologically. I am afraid that if my first amp purchase is something like 4x50W + 1x200W then my midrange drivers will be underpowered like my Seas Lotus 6.5 w/ 75W to them in my other car.

The DLS reference line looks fine if I could find prices. The power and size both match what I am looking for.

So far the amps I am considering:
Xetec Gravity 4x110, 2x250, 1x390 $1200
JL Audio slash 2x25, 2x100, 2x150, 1x250 $900 ebay
DLS reference 4x50, 2x220, 1x250 $?????

Any other ideas?

Drop me an email I can get the DLS amps for you with warrenty. And to tell you the truth the Reference line is just as nice as the Ultimate line, Maybe a a little bit nicer. These are some really nice amps super clean.