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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Anyway...

I am searching for 7 ch. of amplification (100x4, 200x2, 300x1) in two amps only since I have a small hatchback. My space is at a premium. So far the only amps that I have found that are not over 2 feet long with this kind of power is the Xetec line.

However, someone in another thread here mentioned the Lanzar Opti line. It is my understanding that they are a class T amp. Has anyone used or heard any class T amps and were satisified? I would have no problem powering a sub with them but how do these sound on the front stage? All comments are welcome! :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
dodgerblue said:
i dont think lanzar made an all class t 5 or 7 ch amp. Class t amps are not commonly used for full range high end car set ups,they dont sound horrible by any means but typically have lower damping factor, higher distortion ratings and hi freq roll off ,but are more eff than class a-b driven below its full power,class t is a good choice for driving subs for the eff., reason and watts per dollar, think of them like an class d amp with near full range output
Thanks Dodger. Actually the amp I was looking at is here. 100W x 4 is some high power from an amp that small. It says it uses a switching power supply. I just do know if they mean class D or T.

Thanks for the interesting reading Aaron. If they truely solved the high frequency distortion plaguing the class D amps then it sounds like they have a winner design.

Has anyone actually heard a class T design full range?
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Yeah, that was my first choice. I have been in contact with Mr. Mantz and he outlined the dimensions of 700mm x 302mm x 74mm for the Leviathan. The name pretty much sums up the size. That is why the Xetec line seems a little better for my application. (11" x 11" x 2.5")

But if the class T amps sound just as fine, I could be saving hundreds of dollars. That is why I need to know. ;)
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
epifant said:
AFAIK, there are really no such thing as Class T. They are just Tripath-based Class D-amps. Class D is "as low as it goes".
Well if I am reading the above link right, then they characterize class t amps different from class d in one important way. The switching frequency is much, much higher in the class t. (A hybrid class d?) I believe that they contribute this feature (maybe among others) to the "greatly" improved higher frequency response. I think that this gives the tripath less distoration over the entire frequency band compared to a "classic" class d design. But I do not know the degree of improvement over the D designs. I am trying to figure this out.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
DS-21 said:
... but just going by the power ratings I don't think they're Tripath (i.e. "Class T") chips. I ended up passing on the Lanzar in favor of a (mostly) more conventional JL slash-series amp.
After researching the topic myself I did realize that the Lanzar Opti line is a class D design. I am still curious to hear a class T system though.

The JL slash series is actually my alternate choice. I still may go with them if I can truly believe that 25W is good enough for the Seas Lotus silk tweets run actively. Please someone convince me! :D Using a JL 500/5 with a bridged JL 300/4 is the only way to closely achieve the power I want in two amps with the JL line. (25W=tweets, 100W=MR, 150W @ 8 ohms = MB, 125W=sub)



DS-21 said:
As for Tripath (or other Class-D) amps sounding good, there's a mini-craze in home audio circles around various digital amps, partly from tubeophiles looking for a face-saving way into modern equipment after having idiotically denigrated solid state for so long and partly from people like me who prefer efficient and elegant solutions over the alternative. As far as sonic penalty, as long as you don't use them stupidly there is none. Here's an interesting bit of propaganda on TI's digital amp chips.
Thanks for the article. It is very interesting. I guess there has to be some sort of tipping point in the public minds about the quality of these new T amps before they are incorporated into a myriad of product lines.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Here-I-Come said:
I have to agree with racerraul. 50 x 4 is more than enough for your mids and highs. At those frequencies you just don't need a ton of power. For Midbass and subs I say yes get at least max rms rating of the driver. At these frequencies it seem to consume and need a little more power to keep the system dymanics good.

Take a look at the DLS RA40 bridged for the midbasses or the RA20 depending on what midbass drivers you have, the RA20
And the RA50 for the Mids, highs, and the sub
Mark
I am beginning to believe the little current needed for the tweets [Seas Lotus silks or Scan/Alpine] and mids [Trius 3" if I can find them]. I will still need copious amounts of power for my midbass [current 8ohm Adire extremis or Seas nextel]

Among my biggest problems are space constraints and install timeline. I had planned on accumulating everything over the winter and installing it all in one fell swoop. But budget concerns will force me to do this over a long time. Therefore, initially I need: 2x50-100 tweets, 2x150-250 midbass(range). Later, I will add a 8"-10" sub. Finally, I will add the dedicated midrange [Trius 3"] with the second amp while the former midrange drivers will slide to midbass duties. This whole process may take up to two years. So in order to be happy with each stage of the install I have to pick the right parts of the system chronologically. I am afraid that if my first amp purchase is something like 4x50W + 1x200W then my midrange drivers will be underpowered like my Seas Lotus 6.5 w/ 75W to them in my other car.

The DLS reference line looks fine if I could find prices. The power and size both match what I am looking for.

So far the amps I am considering:
Xetec Gravity 4x110, 2x250, 1x390 $1200
JL Audio slash 2x25, 2x100, 2x150, 1x250 $900 ebay
DLS reference 4x50, 2x220, 1x250 $?????

Any other ideas?
 

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Discussion Starter · #22 · (Edited)
racerraul said:
2 Alpine MRV-F345 (50x2 tweets & 300x1 L midbass) (50x2 mids & R 300x1 midbass)
1 Alpine MRD-M605 (400x1 4ohm, 600x1 2ohm subs)
< $900

or

2 Diamond Audio D3 400.4 (50x4 mids & highs) (200x2 midbass) 4ohms
1 Diamond Audio D3 400.2 (400x1 subs 4ohm)
<$800 (Lifetime Warranty authorized)

You guys are coming up with some good ideas. However, in order for me to avoid building a false floor in my hatch, (every square inch needs to be saved) I need to keep it to a two amp system. On top of that, one cannot be longer than 14" and the second no longer than 38" so they both fit on the back of my rear seats. The seats are not tall enough (15") to accommodate two amps side-by-side unless they are super small like the Lanzar Opti line or Xetec. Yeah, I know, this last condition is a pain in the @$$. I am sure you guys are fed up with me hamstringing all your best efforts by now. :blush: It would be so easy if I had a real trunk!
 

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Discussion Starter · #24 ·
Finleyville said:
On top of that, one cannot be longer than 14" and the second no longer than 38" so they both fit on the back of my rear seats.
I'm sorry, I misspoke. I meant that the lengths are 14" and 24" for a total of 38". Oops. :rolleyes:
 

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Discussion Starter · #26 ·
racerraul said:
Ok...

The F345 + M605 side by side would be 13" + 8" = 21" total < 24"
Another F345 would fit in the 14" space... 13" < 14"
Honestly racerraul, I am not always this stupid. :rolleyes: I totally missed that configuration. I have been looking at specs and dimensions over so many amp lines that my brain has become jumbled.

I have found that maybe a F345 (50x4) and a F545 (100x2 + 500x1) may do the job as well. The only thing I am concerned with the above configuration is 100W enough for the Adire extremis or new Seas nextel series? With your solution I have to buy a third amp, but I am more than satisified with 300W to the extremi. Decisions, decisions..... :)
 
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