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funny enough, i have a tesla in the shop right now. Another shop used another brands version (same stuff, different logo) of this stuff. our job today with it is to fix the rattles in the trunk that the previous shop couldnt handle. the stuff they used was all falling off when we took the panels of the hatch off. My feeling is the stfu also didnt hold up to heat very well..?
Good info to know. I'm waiting on your Resonix stuff to be released before starting my sound deadening.
-To clarify, post 1153 in the original test shows STFU V1 was the clear winner in heat testing. Is that the product you dealt with in the Tesla?
 

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Good info to know. I'm waiting on your Resonix stuff to be released before starting my sound deadening.
-To clarify, post 1153 in the original test shows STFU V1 was the clear winner in heat testing. Is that the product you dealt with in the Tesla?
no. the v1 must be different than all of the other generic CLD with foam products out there. I have 3 "different" products here right now and theyre all the same, with the same butyl, foam, aluminum, backing paper, dimensions, etc.. if i wanted to i could even make the same stuff with my logo on it since the manufacturer is easy to find and very cheap. i dont plan on taking the easy way out so i cant promise when my product will be done. If you get to impatient, dynamat extreme is what i suggest.
 

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Discussion Starter #103
funny enough, i have a tesla in the shop right now. Another shop used another brands version (same stuff, different logo) of this stuff. our job today with it is to fix the rattles in the trunk that the previous shop couldnt handle. the stuff they used was all falling off when we took the panels of the hatch off. My feeling is the stfu also didnt hold up to heat very well..?
Its actually one of 5 that held up to 400 degrees. The others being soundskins, dynamat, sds, and second skin.

I've heard of soundskins and stfu failing. Possibly bad quality control?
 

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Or someone just put it on wrong? I've had cld fall off because the metal was greasy or had a ton of dirt on it.

Sent from my XT1710-02 using Tapatalk
 

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@toostubborn, you know a good way to test heat resistance would be to set up a bunch of 3D printer silicone heater bed pads affixed to a piece of sheet metal.

Then use a standalone 12v temperature controller hooked up to good quality solid state relay (12v triggerable), hooked up to the heater pad and thermocouple.

12v temperature controller: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Temperature-Controller-External-heatbed-control-for-Reprap-3D-printer/141918997931

Solid state relay: https://www.verical.com/pd/crydom-solid-state-relay-d2425k-1182436?offerID=25885465&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI9-W3r7e64QIVcSCtBh131wKsEAUYASABEgJSbvD_BwE

Silicone heater pad: https://m.aliexpress.com/item/32869393982.html

The most expensive part is a non-chineesium solid state relay. About $60 total for a pretty sweet setup. You would need a 12v power brick to power the controller board, but that can be had for a few bucks on amazon.

For further safety, you can get something like a 100-120c limit switch plus a 4a fuse to apply to the 120v power input path for the heater pad. That will protect against controller malfunction and any pad meltdown situations.
 

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Discussion Starter #106
@toostubborn, you know a good way to test heat resistance would be to set up a bunch of 3D printer silicone heater bed pads affixed to a piece of sheet metal.

Then use a standalone 12v temperature controller hooked up to good quality solid state relay (12v triggerable), hooked up to the heater pad and thermocouple.

12v temperature controller: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Temperature-Controller-External-heatbed-control-for-Reprap-3D-printer/141918997931

Solid state relay: https://www.verical.com/pd/crydom-solid-state-relay-d2425k-1182436?offerID=25885465&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI9-W3r7e64QIVcSCtBh131wKsEAUYASABEgJSbvD_BwE

Silicone heater pad: https://m.aliexpress.com/item/32869393982.html

The most expensive part is a non-chineesium solid state relay. About $60 total for a pretty sweet setup. You would need a 12v power brick to power the controller board, but that can be had for a few bucks on amazon.

For further safety, you can get something like a 100-120c limit switch plus a 4a fuse to apply to the 120v power input path for the heater pad. That will protect against controller malfunction and any pad meltdown situations.
That's actually a neat idea, but my concern would be it not getting hot enough. Last time a product made it past 250 degrees, and failed at 300 degrees F, and that was a product that had failed in multiple cars. I need to look and see if you can get heaters like that that can handle higher heat.
 

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You’ll have to look for spec sheets, but many are stable at 200c (392f) for continuous use. That should be enough.
 

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Discussion Starter #112
So does he not get the money if it doesn't hit the mark?

Sent from my XT1710-02 using Tapatalk
It's been automatically being sent to a bank account that I am using solely for this project. I currently already have the wood, both microphones, measurement computer, transducers, and casters. Green glue is on the way, and tomorrow the rest of the equipment will be ordered. Assembly will take some time as green glue has a set up time, and its 88 pieces of wood that have to be cut, and assembled, and some pieces have to be cut after the green glue has been applied to make sure dimensions are correct. Basically, the last $200 is going to cover the metal work for the actual clamping mechanism.
 

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come on boys. lets make this place worth a damn again in some way
 

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Chris - I chipped in to your GoFundMe, even though I'm not a DIY Audio guy (but I do have tube audio at home). My project is a Sprinter camper van and I procrastinated too long to buy from SDS. :-( The van itself is quite loud, and now I'm left scrambling for substitute recommendations:

CLD: "Normal" for most areas, and "Thick" for wheel wells and driver's doors.

MLV: I have some, but might need more.

Closed cell foam: to suspend the MLV... this shouldn't need be too specific.

Hydrophobic Melamine Foam for thermal insulation: while it's easy to find cheap Melamine Foam, I want to find hydrophobic treated and don't have any good source!

Cheerio - Ralph
 

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Chris - I chipped in to your GoFundMe, even though I'm not a DIY Audio guy (but I do have tube audio at home). My project is a Sprinter camper van and I procrastinated too long to buy from SDS. :-( The van itself is quite loud, and now I'm left scrambling for substitute recommendations:

CLD: "Normal" for most areas, and "Thick" for wheel wells and driver's doors.

MLV: I have some, but might need more.

Closed cell foam: to suspend the MLV... this shouldn't need be too specific.

Hydrophobic Melamine Foam for thermal insulation: while it's easy to find cheap Melamine Foam, I want to find hydrophobic treated and don't have any good source!

Cheerio - Ralph
Hey Ralph, is your son Nick? Did we happen to meet at my shop a few weeks back?
 

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Hi SkizeR - nope not me. Another Ralph??? Impossible!
TBH i forget the name (i am horrible with names), but your story sounds identical to a customers father who visited my shop and followed chris's old thread where i just so happened to tell him that chris is in the process of gearing up for another test and i am in the process of starting a deadening company.
 
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