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Discussion Starter #1
Best sub to pair with a HD900/5?:

I currently have a CLS110RG-W7 (a 10w7 in a prowedge) hooked up to the sub output of a HD900/5. I asked a friend about this set up and he said he did not perfer the W7's because of how power hungry they are. It was his opinion that these do not "bottom out" so they lack the clarity and sharpness of alternate options (in fact he said his only reccomended w7 would be the 8") Any ways I was debating on selling the box and getting a CVS110RG-W6v2 because I have read that they require less power, and I am trying to avoid adding an additional amp for the sub, and that they have better SQ.

Any advice on subs to accompany a lone hd900/5 amp? Any comparisions of the 10w7's with the 10W6v2's?
 

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the W7 is a very nice sub. tell your friend to stop drooling and get his own, lol.

a statement like "its doesnt bottom out" doesnt even make sense. if you bottom out a sub, you are damaging it, lol. they are no more "power hungry" than any other high power sub. with a 1w/1m rating of 86dB, they are actually quite good. the idea that because a sub can take 1000watts that powering it with 2-300 watts will not work is silly.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
So whats wrong with you system now? So you want to change because your friend doesnt like it?
Lol, no, I was just siting a source. I feel like the sub is under powered, it does not sound clean or clear, even though JL lists the sub as adequately powered at 500, it seems to need more, I do not want to add an amp, and I am curious if other users have really compared the subs, or have any feedback on what they perceived to be the real power requirements
 

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if it doesnt sound right, that is usually enclosure more than power. does it sound "unclear" at all volume levels or just when you push the volume hard?

if it only sounds bad when you push it hard, turn it down ;) you are likely over driving the amplifier.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Also anyone running a HD900/5 to power their fronts and sub with input on what subs they've run in their system, yes YOU, please do comment. (I do appreciate the comments so far)
 

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Discussion Starter #7
if it doesnt sound right, that is usually enclosure more than power. does it sound "unclear" at all volume levels or just when you push the volume hard?

if it only sounds bad when you push it hard, turn it down ;) you are likely over driving the amplifier.
I have to crank the gain all the way up to get the sub at a decent to good level, and it starts sounding muddy. This is why I am worried it is more then my amp can really handle. Thus the consideration of downgrading.

PS. What is your icon/avatar? I am still turing my head trying to decode it.
 

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I have to crank the gain all the way up to get the sub at a decent to good level, and it starts sounding muddy. This is why I am worried it is more then my amp can really handle. Thus the consideration of downgrading.

PS. What is your icon/avatar? I am still turing my head trying to decode it.
lol, I have gotten more comment on my avatar, lol. my kid drew a picture of "splatt the cat" I really like it. very modern artsy.


what size/type of box is it in. I understand the muddy part, if you are stressing the amplifier beyond a comfortable level. but a single 12" with 500 watts of power should be able to get plenty loud.
 

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based on the specs, I am guessing around 1 cuft sealed.

according to JL 500 watts is optimum for that sub. if you want more output, think about a ported box or adding more subs. there is only so much a single 10" can do.
 

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I agree, I'd say you are just wanting more than that single 10 can provide. Turning up the gain to "11" isn't gonna get you good sound. That is a fantastic box too, so if you want more, try selling it and getting one of their ported 12" offerings. Or better yet, save some money and buy some subs and build a box for them. Might actually be fun!
 

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500rms on that 10w7 should be plenty to get loud. SQ should be on point too. I send my 12w6's 500rms each (not all the time obviously..but 500max from my PDX1.1000) and they get plenty loud. I had mine in 1.1 cuft sealed and they sounded a bit boomy and muddy. I didn't change ANYTHING..same car, same amp, same settings, etc and moved to 1.5cuft per sub and they sound MUCH better. JL's specs are known to a be a bit on the small side, pretty well know on here that they are if you didn't know.

Your sub should be able to get plenty loud and have great SQ so whatever you're hearing, likely some sort of distortion or a heavy, un-EQ'd bottom end, or lack of top end is likely due to the box or your install. What's your x-over/slope at on that channel? what's the vehicle and have you done any deadening? Is it possible you're hearing rattles and that's causing an audible distortion?
 

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Discussion Starter #13
500rms on that 10w7 should be plenty to get loud. SQ should be on point too. I send my 12w6's 500rms each (not all the time obviously..but 500max from my PDX1.1000) and they get plenty loud. I had mine in 1.1 cuft sealed and they sounded a bit boomy and muddy. I didn't change ANYTHING..same car, same amp, same settings, etc and moved to 1.5cuft per sub and they sound MUCH better. JL's specs are known to a be a bit on the small side, pretty well know on here that they are if you didn't know.

Your sub should be able to get plenty loud and have great SQ so whatever you're hearing, likely some sort of distortion or a heavy, un-EQ'd bottom end, or lack of top end is likely due to the box or your install. What's your x-over/slope at on that channel? what's the vehicle and have you done any deadening? Is it possible you're hearing rattles and that's causing an audible distortion?
I have read that the 10w6v2's have a sharper response and great sound quality, and are more geared to higher sub frequencies heard in most songs. But the 10W7's are better for SPL and hitting lower sub frequencies then most subs. It was my vague understanding from reading that the 10w7s required at a minimum 750 rms to truly perform to their specs.

As far as deadening, I have laid down a single layer (other then behind my midbass door speakers) as well as cls foam on all pannels (other then the rear hatch which is still bare at the moment) But to clarify, I have year to hear any rattling, what I hear sounds like a rumble, deep but shuttering. I almost feel this subs sound is heavier then I would like. I am not out to impress anyone outside of my vechicle, my goal for my set up focuses on the clean, clear and sharp reproduction of alternative rock type music, not looking to bump my urban tracks. ;)

Now I maybe confused, if the 10w7 truly offers better sq then a 10W6v2 then I will look no futher, but If it does not, and I would be better making up a little money down grading, I will consider that too. Also the reduction in weight could be a slight increase in driving economy.
 

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I have read that the 10w6v2's have a sharper response and great sound quality, and are more geared to higher sub frequencies heard in most songs. But the 10W7's are better for SPL and hitting lower sub frequencies then most subs. It was my vague understanding from reading that the 10w7s required at a minimum 750 rms to truly perform to their specs.

As far as deadening, I have laid down a single layer (other then behind my midbass door speakers) as well as cls foam on all pannels (other then the rear hatch which is still bare at the moment) But to clarify, I have year to hear any rattling, what I hear sounds like a rumble, deep but shuttering. I almost feel this subs sound is heavier then I would like. I am not out to impress anyone outside of my vechicle, my goal for my set up focuses on the clean, clear and sharp reproduction of alternative rock type music, not looking to bump my urban tracks. ;)

Now I maybe confused, if the 10w7 truly offers better sq then a 10W6v2 then I will look no futher, but If it does not, and I would be better making up a little money down grading, I will consider that too. Also the reduction in weight could be a slight increase in driving economy.
since 750Watts on a 10w7 is the point the JL says you invalidate the warrenty. I highly doubt it. no sub "needs" 750 watts just to start performing. I ran 800watt orion XTR (the old school original ones) on 100 watts a piece. they sounded great and barely moved at all.
 

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I used to think that also, but I was told by quite a few people that the w7 is just a beefed up version of the w6 basically. It should retain the same SQ and be able to get a little louder actually. Weight reduction won't be much so I wouldn't worry. It almost sounds like your bottoming the sub but who really knows w/o being there

What's the x-over at on the amp? If you could...just go take a pic of it
 

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Discussion Starter #16
I used to think that also, but I was told by quite a few people that the w7 is just a beefed up version of the w6 basically. It should retain the same SQ and be able to get a little louder actually. Weight reduction won't be much so I wouldn't worry. It almost sounds like your bottoming the sub but who really knows w/o being there

What's the x-over at on the amp? If you could...just go take a pic of it


PS I have a MS-8 processor running the signal from my factory hu to the amp.
 

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PS I have a MS-8 processor running the signal from my factory hu to the amp.
lol, I think he meant an actual picture, so he could see YOUR settings, lol.
 

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Hahah yeah. But if you're running an MS-8 then what you're running on your amp is pretty much useless. What's the x-over/slope setting for your subs?? Check that for us
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Hahah yeah. But if you're running an MS-8 then what you're running on your amp is pretty much useless. What's the x-over/slope setting for your subs?? Check that for us
I believe the MS-8 is just using the default options currently. I still am not well read on its set up. I prep for the install, but have not gotten into my tuning portion of research, since I am still working out kinks in the install. Like fabricating the apillars and replacing the HD900/5 since I got the red/green flashing led error after 2 hours of use.
 
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