DiyMobileAudio.com Car Stereo Forum banner

1 - 20 of 28 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
80 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
So it started with my 2006 Rav4. Wanted Bluetooth and stuff, so I got a cheap pioneer head unit. Car was totaled, so got a 2012 Subaru impreza. Moved the pioneer into that. Pioneer stopped working/started having issues, and I wanted android auto. Thought it would be nice to have maps and music on a screen there. Picked up a Kenwood DMX-7706S on sale at best buy for $350. Things were good for a bit.
Then I wanted more. Picked up a box with 2 Alpine Type E 12" and a Kenwood KAC-8401D for $150 on craigslist. Turns out both alpines didn't work, measured no connection between the terminals with my multimeter. Box was too big for my car anyway. Next day, I get a JL powerwedge box with 2 vintage 10W0 subs for $100. This was good.




Bumping with that for a while, pretty nice. But if I turned up the volume, the stock speakers couldent keep up. It was time to upgrade. Picked up some Focal ISS 165s for the front, and ISC 165 for the rear.
Stock speakers look bad, tiny magnet, plastic basket.




Then time to sound deaden doors




And seal them




And put in a bass control knob




Sound deaden cargo area




And roof


Tuned system. FR measurement after tuning:




EQ applied to get system tuned




Then things went wrong. Trying to hook up my CT Sounds CT 80.4 amp, plugging RCAs into back of head unit, and I shattered the screen. New glass/touch panel ordered, will put in when it gets here.


 

·
Registered
Joined
·
80 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
Pulling the headliner isn't fun. Are you running the Kenwood in 3-way mode?
Wasn't actually too bad. Didn't get it out all the way though, just kinda hanging like in the picture.

No, I am running the rear speakers, I am in college, often have my friends and such in the bad.
I was thinking about using my minidsp 2x4 as a crossover for the fronts, running the fronts of the 4 channel amp, and the rears of the head unit, but IDK, I would have to find the wires for the tweeters and such, lots of work. Maybe at some point.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
8,420 Posts
Wasn't actually too bad. Didn't get it out all the way though, just kinda hanging like in the picture.

No, I am running the rear speakers, I am in college, often have my friends and such in the bad.
I was thinking about using my minidsp 2x4 as a crossover for the fronts, running the fronts of the 4 channel amp, and the rears of the head unit, but IDK, I would have to find the wires for the tweeters and such, lots of work. Maybe at some point.
Just as an experiment, fade the sound all the way to the front, then sit in the backseat. You'll still hear the music perfectly well, even with the rear speakers off. Now sit in the driver seat and fade all the way to the back, and listen (it'll sound weird). Move the fader forward until you don't actually notice the rear speakers at all, you probably won't be 100% to the full front setting, but move up to the point were they aren't noticeable. Now go sit in the back again and listen to how little the rear speakers are actually contributing. It may make a small difference to the rear passengers, but they'll still be able to hear the music, and you can focus on prioritizing your listening position, since you're the one who spent all the money it should sound as good as possible to you.

The miniDSP is a great option too but things may get a bit messy adding that and still trying to run a sub, you'll need to combine forces between the miniDSP and your head unit. If you were willing to dig into the wiring, you could put together a pretty sweet setup.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
80 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
Just as an experiment, fade the sound all the way to the front, then sit in the backseat. You'll still hear the music perfectly well, even with the rear speakers off. Now sit in the driver seat and fade all the way to the back, and listen (it'll sound weird). Move the fader forward until you don't actually notice the rear speakers at all, you probably won't be 100% to the full front setting, but move up to the point were they aren't noticeable. Now go sit in the back again and listen to how little the rear speakers are actually contributing. It may make a small difference to the rear passengers, but they'll still be able to hear the music, and you can focus on prioritizing your listening position, since you're the one who spent all the money it should sound as good as possible to you.

The miniDSP is a great option too but things may get a bit messy adding that and still trying to run a sub, you'll need to combine forces between the miniDSP and your head unit. If you were willing to dig into the wiring, you could put together a pretty sweet setup.
Ok, that makes sense, I'll do some looking and see if I can get separate wires run for the tweeters. I was going to not do any fr dsp with the mini dsp, using it just as a crossover to simplify things, and still run the rears off the head unit. All eq on the head unit. Mini dsp is a little overkill, but I have it laying around.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
8,420 Posts
Ok, that makes sense, I'll do some looking and see if I can get separate wires run for the tweeters. I was going to not do any fr dsp with the mini dsp, using it just as a crossover to simplify things, and still run the rears off the head unit. All eq on the head unit. Mini dsp is a little overkill, but I have it laying around.
You've also got a pretty good head unit, so even if you don't want to dive into the whole DSP thing, you can still get the results you want. I just figured that after seeing the lengths you went to for sound deadening that running active was something you were interested in.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
80 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
You've also got a pretty good head unit, so even if you don't want to dive into the whole DSP thing, you can still get the results you want. I just figured that after seeing the lengths you went to for sound deadening that running active was something you were interested in.
Yeah, I certainly would do it if running active would improve my sound quality by a bit. I have plenty of time home with quarentine and online classes. I'll just have to figure out how to run these wires in the dash.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
80 Posts
Discussion Starter #8
Actually don't think I can use the minidsp, won't be able to take the higher voltage line level, or output it
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
8,420 Posts
I think you can use a jumper to increase the input voltage to 2volts. You'd still need to keep the head unit volume under control, but you can use the majority of the volume range without worry. I know miniDSP sells the 2x4 with a 2 volt option, maybe they can just send you the jumper?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
80 Posts
Discussion Starter #10
I think you can use a jumper to increase the input voltage to 2volts. You'd still need to keep the head unit volume under control, but you can use the majority of the volume range without worry. I know miniDSP sells the 2x4 with a 2 volt option, maybe they can just send you the jumper?
Yeah the jumper is there, I just thought 2v was still not enough, but if it is, then that's good.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
80 Posts
Discussion Starter #11
New plan. Going to hook it up as 4 channel for now. Save up, buy a miniDSP C-DSP 6x8, and a 2 channel amp, and do this thing right.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
8,420 Posts
Yeah the jumper is there, I just thought 2v was still not enough, but if it is, then that's good.
Your Kenwood has 4volt outputs. This is it's maximum output at max volume, and maybe even with some EQ/bass boost. Just a few clicks shy of max volume you'll be down to 2 volts. As long as you set your gains so that you stay out of the very top end of your volume range, you won't be using more than 2 volts.

The miniDSP 6x8 is a great choice, side by side puts the Dayton 408 neck and neck with it, and it's only $150.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
80 Posts
Discussion Starter #13
Your Kenwood has 4volt outputs. This is it's maximum output at max volume, and maybe even with some EQ/bass boost. Just a few clicks shy of max volume you'll be down to 2 volts. As long as you set your gains so that you stay out of the very top end of your volume range, you won't be using more than 2 volts.

The miniDSP 6x8 is a great choice, side by side puts the Dayton 408 neck and neck with it, and it's only $150.
You mean the Dayton is $150? The minidsp is $275 from what I see.
Is the Dayton a good option then? much cheaper....
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
8,420 Posts
You mean the Dayton is $150? The minidsp is $275 from what I see.
Is the Dayton a good option then? much cheaper....
The only complaints I've heard about the Dayton is some people having some noise issues when using the remote knob. Other than that, the Dayton has 10 EQ bands per channel, compared to the mini's 6 bands. The Dayton also has 6 programable presets compared to the mini's 4. The mini has double the amount of time delay, and is supported by REW, I don't know if the Dayton is supported by REW. The Dayton does require Windows, or the bluetooth dongle and a phone app for iOS or Android. The miniDSP is Windows and Mac compatible.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
80 Posts
Discussion Starter #16
New screen for radio arrived and installed. Amp hooked up, listening, then assembling and retuning the car
264960
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
80 Posts
Discussion Starter #18
Have you made up your mind about the DSP?
No. For now I am running the fronts and rears off the amp, but am trying to figure out what to do about the DSP. I might just wait until later this summer when I make some money (if my job isn't canceled due to coronavirus) and get something better, maybe even go to 3 way active in the front if I am feeling it.
 
1 - 20 of 28 Posts
Top