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Discussion Starter #21
Tweeters had a crossover built in in line. Had to get rid of that, that wont do when running active.
Cut it out, and added a 12 uF cap as a safeguard, to prevent any stray low frequencies from coming it. It is well below the active crossover range of 4000-4500 hz, so it wont affect anything. I could have gone with any cheaper non polarized cap, but this one looked nice, and still was very cheap. Big though...
 

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Discussion Starter #22
Both inline crossovers now removed and replaced with high pass filter (around 3300 Hz, will be actively crossing over at around 4000-4500 hz). High pass filter is just a safeguard.
 

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Discussion Starter #23
Got these installbay silicone speaker baffles, as rear speakers would get wet whenever it rained. The edge of the window where water could get in was directly above the speaker. Also have front baffle things, so they are replacing my FAST rings I didn't have too much confidence I (I don't think the open cell foam would do much to "direct" the sound, just let it pass through or absorb some)
 

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Discussion Starter #24
Amp rack thing made for DSP and 4 channel amp to go under passenger seat. 5 channel amp powering front lows and subwoofer is under drivers seat.
 

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Discussion Starter #25
Got some speaker brackets from aliexpress because the metra ones suck. Ordered 2 pair.
Plastic feels much higher quality than the metra. And they are mirrored, unlike the metra. At least they should be... I got them, one pair is mirrored, one pair is not.
$8/pair though, not bad. If only both pairs were right.
 

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Discussion Starter #28
With the DSP tuning complete, system is sounding good. Maybe ill add a bit more treble. but it seems like the system is easier to sound harsh in a car. here is where I am at. Red line is a "flatish" response, green is with the bass knob all the way up (can adjust between those two lines).
270418
 
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