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Common Man best bang for the buck/budget front sound stage

3706 Views 60 Replies 17 Participants Last post by  powerlifter405
Long story, trimmed down best I can; I'm trying to do this on a budget (U$300) and there are plenty of threads on here that are useful however it is way above what I am willing to spend.

Already have just over 50 lb of CDL covering four doors and the back wall of the cab in a 2020 F150 w/ the factory HU. I'm now running a kicker key 200.4 which is 50wx4 rms. I made door block off plates from 3/8 HDPE which significantly improved the sound quality and output of the factory drivers in the door. People will say it's not possible however I did it, and I noticed.

I will upgrade all four doors and the tweeters in the a pillar. I know plenty of people say don't do the rear doors but $50 bucks on polk DB will add a nice touch and I can hear the difference when I fade from front to rear and I need the spl from all four drivers. When I do have people in the back seat they are always asking to turn on the radio so its gonna happen.

My hearing is pretty crappy so I guarantee you I will not be able to hear the difference between a decently built $300 budget system that are some silver flutes or SB acoustics and accompanying tweeters and passive crossover. Literally I am clinically deaf, at some frequencies I have a 70 DB loss.

I throw that out there because somewhere someone will try and sell me the idea to skip the rears and spend $1,500 on audio frogs up front 🤣.

Back to the task at hand.
I'm trying to keep this simple as possible and make it realistic I don't mind piecing together drivers. I can make it simple and just buy some Rockford Fosgate or something off Crutchfield but I know if I go this route I can get a better bang for the buck and I'll be paying for a product that has more R&D versus marketing.

I have found the info below and with the help of a few other folks some ideas have been thrown out. I'd love to hear if anyone has experienced doing a budget build and how it turned out.

Thanks to mumbles for suggesting: SEAS Prestige 27TFFNC/G (H1396) 1" Textile Dome Tweeter and SB Acoustics SB17CRC35 and nectros71 for suggesting the Audison Voce AV K6's.

I'd really like to keep delivered to my door for under $300. Using the SB and tweeter from madison plus a Focal or NVX crossover would accomplish that. I did look at a lot of European products but the shipping adds a lot.

The SB above is in the $110 range each. IF possible I'd like to get that closer to $75 each, several options below do so and even the DA are in the $35 range. I listen to Slayer, Pantera or Megadeth. Sometimes Bass Mekanik or something like Phisos Jataro and a little bit of Waylon Jennings in between. With the bass songs and even stuff like Slayer (vices or pride and prejudice) has a lot of double bass, Sepultura-Procreation of the Wicked heavy bass guitar, I would like a 6" or some 8" (w/ a 1/2 spacer plate) that are able to handle LF since I'll be sub-less.

I do NOT plan on running a sub at the moment so I need the doors to cover as much of the LF as possible. I had dual 10 Infinity Kappas w/ a 1600 watt Alpine which hit decent in my previous vehicle but things change. For super duper bass I'll listen to my dual JTR 2400s at home but a sub is not going to work for the truck.

If anyone has anything to add I'm open to suggestions. I'll get mounting rings from Soundsgoodstereo or make them myself from HDPE but for a vehicle that gets driver 3-4 per month I want to keep it inexpensive. Thanks!

Dayton Audio RS225-4 8" Reference Woofer 4 Ohm
Dayton Audio RS180-4 7" Reference Woofer 4 Ohm
Dayton Audio GF180-4 6-1/2" Glass Fiber Cone Woofer 4 Ohm
Silver Flute W17RC38-04 ohm 6-1/2" Wool Cone SB Acoustics SB17MFC35-4 6" Poly Cone Woofer SB Acoustics SB17NBAC35-4 Aluminum Cone Woofer - 4 ohm
Ciare HWB200-4 - Ciare HWB200-4 is a 8 inch 4 ohm speaker with a rubber surround bass and mid-bass speaker systems- Ciare Speakers - Ciare HWB200-4 8 inch speaker for bass guitar speaker systems, PA speakers, motorcycles, car speaker systems, recording
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For the Money i like CT Sounds or Skar,great CS from them. Ive just outgrew them.
Alpine and Kicker both good for the money too.

im partial too the infinity Kappa series as my front stage 3.5”,2” softdome mid-range and Hertz tweeter. And 6x9’s in the mix.

ive had several here tell me you dont need rear fill,not me i like it to right dead center Of the stage.
my 4 6x9’s keep vocals, and add front footwell 8” sub if i go that route.
anyhow Sundown has 2 different 6x9’s i bought a box of each, to test them out.
i bought some very nice Machete3 8” mid-bass’s i may only use one.

dont let anyone tell you what to do,you know what you like.

you may get a steal,Amazon carries so much these days car audio related.
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Might be able to help. Will send you a PM.
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Might be able to help. Will send you a PM.
Hold up man. You can't leave us over here like mushrooms. :)
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Might be able to help. Will send you a PM.
Replied to your pm. Thanks!

For the Money i like CT Sounds or Skar,great CS from them. Ive just outgrew them.
Alpine and Kicker both good for the money too.

im partial too the infinity Kappa series as my front stage 3.5”,2” softdome mid-range and Hertz tweeter. And 6x9’s in the mix.

ive had several here tell me you dont need rear fill,not me i like it to right dead center Of the stage.
my 4 6x9’s keep vocals, and add front footwell 8” sub if i go that route.
anyhow Sundown has 2 different 6x9’s i bought a box of each, to test them out.
i bought some very nice Machete3 8” mid-bass’s i may only use one.

dont let anyone tell you what to do,you know what you like.

you may get a steal,Amazon carries so much these days car audio related.
The CT doesn't go a deep as I'd like. The Machete gets down to 29hz so that would give plenty of umph but how much low end would I loose w/ DA, SB or Silverflute comparably? My hearing sux but I do want something to sound decent, esp when the wife is in the truck. I suspect the SD would have good SQ but again I'm wanting more low end than 60hz FR if possible, comparing specs of one driver vs another. I know its not a perfect comparison vs real life but thats all I have to go on.

I enjoy the kappas but I suspect that something like the SB combo might have a little better low end and not be as bright on top. I've had to dial back the highs on every infinity I've owned just a bit.

I have a few ideas whittled' down so I'm hoping to have things ordered up by this weekend.
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Check this out. I don't know where your getting your info on the deaf bonce midranges. But they will definitely not play down to 29hz. This is their 8" specs

White Line Font Parallel Rectangle


They suggested an 100-125hz HPF in their manual. That's terrible for an 8"

Those are just big midranges.

Then to top it off how they perform in your doors is gonna vary anyways. I wouldn't be trying to get bass out of door mounted midbasses. It's not worth the trouble.

Just to be clear are these the speakers you are talking bout.

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Check this out. I don't know where your getting your info on the deaf bonce midranges. But they will definitely not play down to 29hz. This is their 8" specs

View attachment 373222

They suggested an 100-125hz HPF in their manual. That's terrible for an 8"

Those are just big midranges.

Then to top it off how they perform in your doors is gonna vary anyways. I wouldn't be trying to get bass out of door mounted midbasses. It's not worth the trouble.

Just to be clear are these the speakers you are talking bout.

HERE is the diagram is for the Machete LW-80A4

ModelLW-80A4
TypeMidbass
Size8"
Frequency response29 - 4000 Hz
Package quantity1 Pc

Font Line Rectangle Parallel Slope


You are showing the MW-80

MW-80 MW-80
TypeMidbass
Size8"
Frequency response60 - 6000 Hz

I need to get as much out of the doors as possible. It is what it is and a driver w/ a manufactures specified FR starting at 29hz will likely provide better bass and mid bass than a driver that starts at 60.

I can hear the bass in the house w/ the factory drivers and the kickerkey and I can only guess how anemic the factory speakers are. Like I said, I had dual 10's before etc etc etc and I have dual 18's and 4800w in my living room. I understand the concept but I'm just having to work w/in my parameters and trying to make the best of it.
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HERE is the diagram is for the Machete LW-80A4

ModelLW-80A4
TypeMidbass
Size8"
Frequency response29 - 4000 Hz
Package quantity1 Pc

View attachment 373225

You are showing the MW-80

MW-80 MW-80
TypeMidbass
Size8"
Frequency response60 - 6000 Hz

I need to get as much out of the doors as possible. It is what it is and a driver w/ a manufactures specified FR starting at 29hz will likely provide better bass and mid bass than a driver that starts at 60.

I can hear the bass in the house w/ the factory drivers and the kickerkey and I can only guess how anemic the factory speakers are. Like I said, I had dual 10's before etc etc etc and I have dual 18's and 4800w in my living room. I understand the concept but I'm just having to work w/in my parameters and trying to make the best of it.
Ok cool those play a lil lower but are more for midbass duty in a 3way configuration. You won't pair them right with a tweeter.

Manufacturer is suggesting 60-80hz HPF and a 500-600 LPF

You could run a wideband and run tweeterless, but I'm not too keen on the Kicker keys DSP capability.
If I understand, the 200.4 is supposed to have improved DSP over the 180.4. I could have got an audiocontrol, etc.. but I don't spend big money on car audio. I enjoy 'rocking out' but we just bought a house and plan on paying it off in 5 years so I can retire as soon as possible. I was on the verge of getting dual JTR215s, the accompanying center and maybe grabbing a few Cherry Amps but we want extra $$ to go towards investing or the house.

I'd say anything is a big improvement over stock but I've seen too many guys install mid level Morels in the F150s and be really let down. I installed a pair in a 72 Monte Carlo and I was very dissappointed so that was not happening w/ the truck.

I'm thinking if super budget piece meal, get the DA or Silverflute drivers w/ the SEAS tweeter or similar. I did eye ball some NVX, heard they are decent for the price. Or for a little extra get the SB.

Or go box store commercial and get some Infinity Kappas, Polk DB's(on sale) or JBLs. I had JBL's 6x9s in my exwifes vehicle pushed by a little 600w amp and Sepultura rocked pretty decent for no treatments.
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Check this thread out. There's some serious midbass comparisons in there. Even the most top of the line midbases aren't getting down to 30hz. I get what your trying to do, I'm not trying to rain on your parade. But expecting a driver to get down to sub level and mate with a tweeter are very high expectations.

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Look into Steven's audio. Ppl really like the MB8s. They are really efficient and play fairly high. They are not ment to play down to 30hz like you'd like. But they are definitely really good for the price.

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A two way with a 8" that plays low and high enough to mate with a tweeter is pretty tough to find.

What about the 7" Dayton Audio Epique? Should have decent bass and reach high enough to meet a stout tweeter.

You could do Peerless SLS 8" (44.00 open box at parts express) with a wideband.
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A two way with a 8" that plays low and high enough to mate with a tweeter is pretty tough to find.

What about the 7" Dayton Audio Epique? Should have decent bass and reach high enough to meet a stout tweeter.

You could do Peerless SLS 8" (44.00 open box at parts express) with a wideband.
Understand, but I'll try to find something reasonable in either 8 or 6.5".
I haven't looked at the Epique and I'll have to look at that Peerless. PE acts funny on my mbp for somereason. I may to have to look at work. Thx


Check this thread out. There's some serious midbass comparisons in there. Even the most top of the line midbases aren't getting down to 30hz. I get what your trying to do, I'm not trying to rain on your parade. But expecting a driver to get down to sub level and mate with a tweeter are very high expectations.

I accuately just started reading that one. I suspect I'll need to find my windows laptop and install winsd to verify some drivers but I get it. I know I can't expect the stupid bass I had w/ dual ported 15's in my 98 sh$tbox back in the day lol but I'm trying to get the best that I can. Like I was thinking, a top of the line JBL, Infinity or even a Polk DB will have more thump than the factory drivers and sound better doing it. Its that I suspect if I go more ID, like madision, SI etc.. I can get more bang for the buck and better SQ.

And I exchanged messages w/ Steve this morning and only his comp set would get me close and its out of what I want to spend.
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2020 F150? Google says it has locations in the dash for 3.5s, correct? If so, widebands... Without a doubt. I have CDT Unity 8s in the dash of my beater-with-a-heater and for the price, it's awesome. The stage and imaging may not be perfect, but having the sound solidly at eye level is just awesome. Option 4C at the bottom has a midbass oriented woofer...


You can also buy just the Unity 8 drivers. They will work very well with an 8" midbass since you can cross them over much, much lower than a tweeter

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There is a single driver in the middle of the console. Supposedly, according to multiple "gurus" on F150forum, its primarily used for chimes, vehicle noises etc and the HU blends right and left for any audio into a single channel for that center. The factory set up is 7 channel, no sub.

Have you used any other CDT equipment?
I'm in the process of finishing out an install in my pride-n-joy, using their ES-4s in kickpanels and their DT-26S tweeters in the sail panels. I mounted their 8" and one of their 6x9s in a box to see how they sounded, but my project plans changed and they're sitting in the boxes. So no, not really any history with them other than those Unity 8s in the dash.

If i just has a single speaker location in the center of the dash, widebands won't work...
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There is a single driver in the middle of the console. Supposedly, according to multiple "gurus" on F150forum, its primarily used for chimes, vehicle noises etc and the HU blends right and left for any audio into a single channel for that center. The factory set up is 7 channel, no sub.

Have you used any other CDT equipment?
The problem is that you need to use actual Subwoofer drivers in your doors to be able to handle the excursion that's needed for anything below 80Hz but that also means that they won't be much good at anything above 300-500Hz so you have to have something to fill in the space between 500-2500 where your factory A-Pillar Tweeters come in... but this flies in direct opposition to your stated intent to keep the budget controlled.

The CDT subwoofers (CDT HD-M6+) are a good choice with the above caveats but without a wideband in the dash corners you are back to the 8" midbass comparison thread for a two way install and given your budget considerations the Dayton are going to be the choice for you.

So - if you can find somewhere to install something like this: 3" Long Throw EAS8P338A6 Full-Range Speaker as a budget wideband and then use the Epique 7 or DCS165-4 for the Bass you'll get much more SPL without the bass distorting.

Alternatively you will need to stick to finding the maximum excursion with the lowest inductance in an underhung configuration to try and make the doors cover everything up to the 1" tweeters; something like this if you are willing to extend your budget an extra $100... Tang Band W8
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The problem is that you need to use actual Subwoofer drivers in your doors to be able to handle the excursion that's needed for anything below 80Hz
I won't quote it all, but solid advice.
HERE is the diagram is for the Machete LW-80A4

ModelLW-80A4
TypeMidbass
Size8"
Frequency response29 - 4000 Hz
Package quantity1 Pc

View attachment 373225

You are showing the MW-80

MW-80 MW-80
TypeMidbass
Size8"
Frequency response60 - 6000 Hz

I need to get as much out of the doors as possible. It is what it is and a driver w/ a manufactures specified FR starting at 29hz will likely provide better bass and mid bass than a driver that starts at 60.

I can hear the bass in the house w/ the factory drivers and the kickerkey and I can only guess how anemic the factory speakers are. Like I said, I had dual 10's before etc etc etc and I have dual 18's and 4800w in my living room. I understand the concept but I'm just having to work w/in my parameters and trying to make the best of it.
Have to agree with Honda, that speaker is probably not getting down to 29. Some of the highly regarded 8 inch midbass uses here won’t get there and users that did significant installation process won’t hit 29. I think that speaker also has some pro audio roots which also leads me to be believe no where close
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How much depth do you have until the speaker hits the window glass?
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