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Discussion Starter #1
Can anybody give some suggestions of other lower price alternative to the JL audio 13w7 both in output and sq? I obviously know that you often have to pay for quality. But are there any other subwoofer that have about 90% of what the JL w7 line offers at about a $500 budget. For same level of output, I am also willing to go with 2 subs. I am currently using a Audio Frog Gb10 d4 ported and pushing it with the alpine PDX V9 5th channel. I like the sub but feel it is lacking a little bit of output and was wondering if there was something else out there.
 

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Plenty of subs out there that get you there. Fi Q might be a good option. You should model a few for output to see what will get your more than your audio frog 10.
 

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The JL 12W3 is a viable option. It's not the same diameter but has a higher x-max. There is also the Sundown Audio SD-4 12"

Ge0
 

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Discussion Starter #4
The JL 12W3 is a viable option. It's not the same diameter but has a higher x-max. There is also the Sundown Audio SD-4 12"

I don't have experience with any JL subs yet but keep seeing them as a very popular option for consumers. So are you saying the 12W3, which costs around $300, will give me about 90% of what the 13W7 can produce in output and sq? If that is true, then that would be a great alternative.

Isn't the Sundown SD-4 a shallow subwoofer? It is hard to comprehend a shallow subwoofer with its limitation can compete with the Jl 13W7.

The reason I'm asking is because it seems the general consensus is that the JL 13W7 is an excellent subwoofer for both sq and output. I can save up to get one but obviously I don't want to spend the money and then be disappointed. Let's put it this way, which one would be have more output, 2 Audio Frog GB10 or just 1 JL 13w7?
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I guess this leads to another question. The Jl 13w7 requires about 1500 watts to power it. Can the stock alternator on a 2018 Honda Accord run a 5 channel PDX V9 or Arc Audio 1200.6 and another Class D mono amp running 1500 watts? I know in the past it can't handle Class AB amps putting out 2700 watts total. But since Class D amps are more efficient, I was wondering if it can now.
 

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SI RM-12 is under $500
 

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I guess this leads to another question. The Jl 13w7 requires about 1500 watts to power it. Can the stock alternator on a 2018 Honda Accord run a 5 channel PDX V9 or Arc Audio 1200.6 and another Class D mono amp running 1500 watts? I know in the past it can't handle Class AB amps putting out 2700 watts total. But since Class D amps are more efficient, I was wondering if it can now.
That's competely false about requiring 1500 watts. In fact, a true 1500 rms will burn up a 13w7. I've reached the thermal limits on mine with 1350 watts each. I couldn't believe it since they are rated at 1500. However if you go back to the original w7 literature they were rated at 1000 watts which is more accurate based on my evidence. This is real time power measurement from amm-1.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
So the same question probably still applies to the 1k watts. Can the stock alternator power both a Arc Audio 1200.6 plus a 1k or 1.2k mono class d amp?
 

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Discussion Starter #9
SI RM-12 is under $500
I don't see the Stereo Integrity website carrying the RM-12 anymore, only the SQL-12 or the BM mKV. I know many people here on the forum loves the BM mKV for its ease of installation but how does it compare to my current sub, AF GB10? If it is about the same output then that probably means I have to get 2.
 

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Only get a shallow sub if you can’t fit a regular sub’s depth, otherwise you’re giving up excursion for no good reason.

I’d recommend a pair of SI SQL-12 in sealed enclosures. They’re pretty sensitive and will have good output in a fairly small enclosure. 1-2K watts on the pair and you’ll have really nice, clean, authoritative bass.

I don’t see a mention of what vehicle you have gut if you have a trunk, I would recommend a pair of SI SQL-15 in an infinite baffle setup.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Only get a shallow sub if you can’t fit a regular sub’s depth, otherwise you’re giving up excursion for no good reason.

I’d recommend a pair of SI SQL-12 in sealed enclosures. They’re pretty sensitive and will have good output in a fairly small enclosure. 1-2K watts on the pair and you’ll have really nice, clean, authoritative bass.

I don’t see a mention of what vehicle you have gut if you have a trunk, I would recommend a pair of SI SQL-15 in an infinite baffle setup.
I have an 2018 Honda Accord, so it has a trunk. I've been doing a lot of reading on this forum and see many members running wonderful higher end amplifiers like Mosconi, Sinfoni, Arc Audio etc, that are putting out 1k watts or more. They don't really mention it, but is it a given assumption that they have all upgraded their electricals with a high output alternator and extra batteries?
 

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I have been hesistant to reply, but am frankly surprised that no one has asked about the specs for your existing box. What volume and tuning frequency?
I went ahead and plotted a GB10D4 with the WinISD recommendation which is 2.387 cuft tuned at 25.14 Hz using 500W. 111dB @ 30Hz, 109.5 dB @ 25 Hz and 101dB @ 20 Hz. That is pretty freaking loud IMO.
So ... a 13W7AE using 1500W. 113 @ 30, 110 @ 25 and 107 @ 20.
A pair of GB10D4 still only using 500W (total). 114.5 @ 30, 113.5 @ 25 and 106.5 @ 20.
A pair of GB10D4 using 1000W (total). 117 @ 30, 115.5 @ 25 and 107 @ 20

My recommendation would be to get a 2nd GB10D4, run them series parallel (for a final load of 4ohm) with the 500W you already have in a 4.775 cuft box tuned @ 25Hz and be on your merry.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
I have been hesistant to reply, but am frankly surprised that no one has asked about the specs for your existing box. What volume and tuning frequency?
I went ahead and plotted a GB10D4 with the WinISD recommendation which is 2.387 cuft tuned at 25.14 Hz using 500W. 111dB @ 30Hz, 109.5 dB @ 25 Hz and 101dB @ 20 Hz. That is pretty freaking loud IMO.
So ... a 13W7AE using 1500W. 113 @ 30, 110 @ 25 and 107 @ 20.
A pair of GB10D4 still only using 500W (total). 114.5 @ 30, 113.5 @ 25 and 106.5 @ 20.
A pair of GB10D4 using 1000W (total). 117 @ 30, 115.5 @ 25 and 107 @ 20

My recommendation would be to get a 2nd GB10D4, run them series parallel (for a final load of 4ohm) with the 500W you already have in a 4.775 cuft box tuned @ 25Hz and be on your merry.
I originally had the GB10 in a 0.7 cuft sealed box and it sounded very anemic. At this point in time I didn't know if it was the sub or the box so I decided on trying a ported box. But I didn't wanted to go wasting another $200 on a proper ported box if it happens to be the subwoofer's limited output. So I just threw it into a prefab Q-Bomb 1.4 cuft vented enclsoure. Sure enough, there was more output than the sealed box. However, it is still less output than my older pair of Image Dynamics 10 IDQs in a sealed 1 cuft each chamber sealed box.

With your recommendation of 2 GB10 in a 4.775 cuft box tuned @25 hz, can you please give me the physical dimensions of the box to see if I will have any trunk space left? Thanks.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
I went back and looked at the recommended ported enclosure for the AF GB10 and it stated the recommended ported box volume: 0.85-1.75 cubic feet. You are saying that WinISD have a recommendation of 2.387 cuft?
 

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Having owned several derivatives of the JL w7 line (including even a couple fathoms) and now presently owning an Adire Brahma, I can state unequivocally that Adire’s offering provides better bass, better spl, and equal sq for half the price.

I loved my JL’s, but this Brahma (packed in a small 1.2 sealed, although it’s almost as good in my ported 2.0 box) has been such a joy every time I listen to it. Best 300 bucks I’ve ever spent.
 

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Blended response to your questions ...
See if you can make this fit 37" wide, 14.5" deep, 16.5" tall ... that would give you a net internal volume of approximately 3.5 cuft (which is AF recommended max for 2). Tuning this at 25Hz would use a 1" slot port about 24" long.

The WinISD recommendation doesn't care about using a lot of extra space to gain a small amount of output, and also it will do what it must to produce a flat frequency response as low as possible. AF built the thing, and their recommendation is based on extensive real-world testing ... that being said, I am a huge fan of output below 30Hz so if a box can be tuned below 30 I say get er done. The lower you tune a box the longer the port gets, which also makes for a larger box. The flip side to tuning lower is that your maximum output will actually go down (which kinda helps with the flat response).
For example: using the AF recommended 1.75 cuft
tuned at their recommended 33Hz = 112.5dB @ 35Hz, 104.5dB @25Hz, 94.5dB @ 20Hz
tuned at 25Hz (still 1.75 cuft) = 110dB @ 35Hz, 107.5dB @ 25Hz, 100.5dB @ 20Hz
Using the Q-Bomb 1.4 tuned at 39Hz = 110dB @35Hz, 96.5dB @ 25 Hz, 87dB @ 20Hz ... but 115.5dB way up at 45Hz

TL;DR you are using the wrong enclosure which is making your awesome subwoofer sound like crap (compared to what it could do)
 

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So the same question probably still applies to the 1k watts. Can the stock alternator power both a Arc Audio 1200.6 plus a 1k or 1.2k mono class d amp?
The AA 1200.6 has more power than my AA 600.4. My 19' Accord hasn't skipped a beat while running the 600.4, Helix dsp and a 1k class D subwoofer amp. All I did is upgrade the battery when I first purchased the car.
 

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Having owned several derivatives of the JL w7 line (including even a couple fathoms) and now presently owning an Adire Brahma, I can state unequivocally that Adire’s offering provides better bass, better spl, and equal sq for half the price.

I loved my JL’s, but this Brahma (packed in a small 1.2 sealed, although it’s almost as good in my ported 2.0 box) has been such a joy every time I listen to it. Best 300 bucks I’ve ever spent.
i was just going to say that many Adire users have been very satisfied. Also have heard people that are very satisfied with the FI q series.
 
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