DiyMobileAudio.com Car Stereo Forum banner
1 - 20 of 33 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
33 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi,

I'm lucky to have come across DIY as this is where I've learnt a lot about what's out there in the car audio space in the U.S. (I was an absolute novice before, and I still kinda am!).

I've come down to a list with what I'll be purchasing in a few days, but am yet to finalize on quite a few items:

1. Front Stage: Hertz HSK 165XL or Audison Voce AV 6K
2. Rear Fill: Hertz HCX 165 (not finalized)
3. Head Unit: Pioneer AVH-X5500BHS or Pioneer AVH-X8500BHS
4. Sound Processor: JBL MS-8 (Finalized!)
5. Subwoofer: JL Audio 12W3V3-4 with Powerwedge enclosure
6. Amplifier(s): Boston Acoustics (GT475 for front tweeters and rear fill, GT2125 for front mid-bass, and GT24 for the subwoofer)

Now, I'm still open to suggestions about the 6.5 comps for front stage. Didn't find the HATs to my taste, and definitely not focal because I like easy on my ears and not overly bright tweeters.

I'm still contemplating between 6.5 or 6x9 for my rear fill. I will need them as I will have rear passengers riding most of the time.

With respect to subwoofers, I'm looking for sound quality mostly with a tight and punchy bass.

And the amps, why 3 BAs? Because they're A/B and they're cheap. Will cost around $420 for all of them. I'm open to suggestions.


Now, the real crazy part is that I wanna be doing the install all by myself to save $$$ required for professional installation. I am really confused what all wiring I would need to replace, and how. (2000 Honda Accord EX)

I do want to apply sound dampening material in my front doors atleast.


Any suggestions with regard to anything mentioned above, or any pointers to any DIY resources or help is greatly appreciated.

Thank you!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
186 Posts
Hi,

I'm lucky to have come across DIY as this is where I've learnt a lot about what's out there in the car audio space in the U.S. (I was an absolute novice before, and I still kinda am!).

I've come down to a list with what I'll be purchasing in a few days, but am yet to finalize on quite a few items:

1. Front Stage: Hertz HSK 165XL or Audison Voce AV 6K
2. Rear Fill: Hertz HCX 165 (not finalized)
3. Head Unit: Pioneer AVH-X5500BHS or Pioneer AVH-X8500BHS
4. Sound Processor: JBL MS-8 (Finalized!)
5. Subwoofer: JL Audio 12W3V3-4 with Powerwedge enclosure
6. Amplifier(s): Boston Acoustics (GT475 for front tweeters and rear fill, GT2125 for front mid-bass, and GT24 for the subwoofer)

Now, I'm still open to suggestions about the 6.5 comps for front stage. Didn't find the HATs to my taste, and definitely not focal because I like easy on my ears and not overly bright tweeters.

I'm still contemplating between 6.5 or 6x9 for my rear fill. I will need them as I will have rear passengers riding most of the time.

With respect to subwoofers, I'm looking for sound quality mostly with a tight and punchy bass.

And the amps, why 3 BAs? Because they're A/B and they're cheap. Will cost around $420 for all of them. I'm open to suggestions.


Now, the real crazy part is that I wanna be doing the install all by myself to save $$$ required for professional installation. I am really confused what all wiring I would need to replace, and how. (2000 Honda Accord EX)

I do want to apply sound dampening material in my front doors atleast.


Any suggestions with regard to anything mentioned above, or any pointers to any DIY resources or help is greatly appreciated.

Thank you!
Equipment selection is personal preference, so no input there. You seem to be looking at good enough brands and specs. I wouldn't be afraid of class D on the amps, especially if your alternator/electrical system is a potential problem, but that's a can of worms I don't really want to open.

As for wiring, that can be a little tricky depending on what you're planning on doing. It looks like you want to run active front and passive rear. So you'll effectively need 7/8 channel signal wires depending on if the subs are mono or stereo summing. Might as well make it 4 pairs for convenience since the MS8 should be able to handle that. Length is going to be up to you, or you can check on a Honda forum for what folks recommend.

You'll need plenty of speaker wire for this too. I'd guess somewhere around 100 feet based on my 3 way active install as that was enough for tweeters, midranges, and midbasses, plus a pair of subs IB in the trunk. Somewhere between 16-12 gauge should do you fine.

Many people like to buy a power and/or ground distribution block for their amp power and ground wiring. It's optional, but convenient in a 3 amplifier system. Definitely 0 gauge power and ground for those if you use them. Otherwise, 4 gauge should do you on an individual basis, or for the runs from the distro blocks to the amps. I doubt they can accept 0 gauge anyway. You'll need at least 1 run of 0 from your battery to your amp rack. Typically something like 15 feet should suffice for that, but you'll want to envision where the runs are going to go to get a better idea on length required. It might be as much as 20-25 feet if you have to get creative snaking them through the cabin.

You'll need a small run of REM turn-on wire from the deck or MS-8 to the amps. Speaker wire is fine for that task too, but you can pick up some blue 18-22 gauge specifically for that job if you want it to look cleaner.

For fusing, you can buy distribution blocks with built in fuse holders that would be easiest, but you'll want a fuse inline near the battery for your main power wire. For 0 gauge, I'd recommend something in the 150-200 amp range for that fuse. Lower is safer, but that limits your maximum current draw to the amps. Each amp should have a recommended fusing, and may have onboard fusing too.

For a guide on snaking wires through hard to fit places, you'll probably want to check out Honda specific forums as they'll know the tricks. A coathanger and duct/electrical tape are what I typically use. Push the coat hanger through from the destination to the origin, tape the wires to the hanger with a conical front edge to it so it can slide through easier and then tug it through. It can get frustrating your first time, so don't destroy your car.

As for deadening the doors, there are plenty of FAQs and tutorials on the correct amplications of various material types available on deadener websites and forums. It's probably best to seek one of those out for the minutia. Sealing the inner door card is highly recommended to isolate the front and rear waves of your midbass, which usually requires a little creativity on your part. I've used chicken wire with deadener applied, MDF, plexiglass, and meltable plastics depending on the shape I need to seal. I like chicken wire best since I can shape it to the desired contour and it's pretty easy to work with, but you've got to secure it somehow which means extra holes in your inner door sheet metal for screws/bolts. The upside is the screws are easy to take out if you need to service the inside of the door (for window related problems for instance). Depending on how thorough you want to treat them, you'll probably want to at least look into and understand how deadener (butyl based only) works, and how closed cell foam (closed cell only for cars) is best used. Mass loaders such as vinyl will add considerable weight to your car, so keep that in mind if you're rocking the 4 cylinder. They can be effective in going that extra mile with acoustic treatment, but aren't necessary to see dramatic results from treatment. Budget weeks for a good deadening job. You might be able to do both doors solidly in a weekend, but if you want to consider the roof and floor, expect the car to be out of commission for 2 weeks. Pulling seats and headliners can eat up a lot of time, but you can also run wiring that way, so it's not all bad.

For the charging system, if you run into voltage drops (dimming headlights) then the first step in solving it is to upgrade the big 3. Again a google search will be most effective in explaining what's involved with that, but basically you run larger wiring to the alternator, battery, and vehicle frame so they can carry more current, thereby increasing the efficiency of what you've got. The next step for dimming while driving would be an alternator upgrade. I would guess there are plenty of options for a Honda available there. Just make sure it's putting out more power at idle engine rpms. A 300 amp alternator that makes it's power at 4k rpms isn't going to fix dimming at a stop light, and could make it even worse depending on it's performance around 600 rpms. Batteries shouldn't be required for this system. All they'd provide you would be extra reserves when the alternator isn't running (engine off). SPL comp systems can benefit from having storage elements near the monster amps. SQ/daily driver systems, not so much.

As for wiring runs, keep your big wires away from your smaller wires. Run the signal wires at least 2 feet away from anything else. If you have to cross them with something carrying large amounts of power, make it a 90* intersection to minimize the time they're near any other outside interference. Don't coil signal wires up. You'll make an electromagnet out of them and induce noise. Try to avoid doubling them back on themselves too for the same reason. If you've got slack, find a nice big open spot you can spend up the excess without them paralleling or coiling each other. Under the rear seats is worth investigating.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
699 Posts
Def looks like a legit setup, Id go Hertz over the Audison.... they just seemed a tad better with good tuning avail, which you will have.

Amp selection is fine as well, clean true rated power or 50w/ch is really all ya need rest is what you like.

The sub tho... I wouldnt put any of that prefabbed powerwedge crap in it. Tight punchy bass is more than just what sub you have its front stage also. Which you said you dont want to deaden and seal your doors... this is a huge mistake which would be one of your biggest gains of quality and midbass.

So that being said. just deaden your damn doors you don't have to go crazy for it to perform. On the sub, if you like JL run JL... just not some powerwedge crap.

Finally, I know you want to just do it yourself which is fine, but you seem realllly new to this kind of thing. I would suggest finding someone KNOWLEDGEABLE off here that is local and offering like $100 to look over stuff after each part of your build and give hands on pointers. This way you learn what to do and how to do it, and he doesn't feel freeloaded for his time.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
33 Posts
Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Equipment selection is ........................................................
........................................................

nice big open spot you can spend up the excess without them paralleling or coiling each other. Under the rear seats is worth investigating.
Def looks like a legit setup, Id go Hertz over the Audison.... ....................
....................................
................each part of your build and give hands on pointers. This way you learn what to do and how to do it, and he doesn't feel freeloaded for his time.
Thank you so much for your response ceri23.
As I mentioned earlier, the main reason why I’m sticking to BA A/B is because they’re super cheap and I haven’t heard a bad thing about them.

GT475 for front tweeters and rear fill – 4 x 75w @ 4ohms
GT2125 for front mid-bass – 2 x 125w @ 4ohms
GT24 for the subwoofer – 1 x 600w @ 4ohms (coupling the 2 channels)

Yes, I plan to run my front components active, and the rear is just gonna be a set of coaxials.
Could you please tell me a little more about these signal wires and speaker wires? In fact links to probably what I should be buying (brands and quality) would be of great help. Also I’m not sure about what gauge wire I should be going in for and why.

I’m really sorry but I’m a little unclear on “Many people like to buy a power and/or ground distribution block for their amp power and ground wiring. It's optional, but convenient in a 3 amplifier system.”

Like I said, I know very less about wiring at this point. It took me days to come up with the configuration I’m at right now. I’ve been watching and reading a lot of DIY videos and instructions to do all that I need to do.

Also, given my setup which distribution blocks do you recommend?

And with regard to deadening, I just plan to work on my front doors only for now. Maybe a little bit in the trunk while I’m there anyway. Nothing else.


And thank you cruzinbill for your response as well. I have the Audison Voce comps (AV 6.5 and Av 1.1, without passive crossover set) available to me for $450 (new). Are you recommending the Hertz HSK 165XL or the Hertz Mille over the Audison Voce?

And with respect to the sub enclosure, what do you recommend? And why not powerwedge (made by JL Audio for their own subs)? And I learnt JL subs are good at that price point for good SQ, don’t necessarily need SPL. I was also interested in AudioMobile now that they’re back, but just can’t seem to find where to buy ‘em.

And I agree with your last suggestion. Any pointers?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
699 Posts
Thank you so much for your response ceri23.
As I mentioned earlier, the main reason why I’m sticking to BA A/B is because they’re super cheap and I haven’t heard a bad thing about them.

GT475 for front tweeters and rear fill – 4 x 75w @ 4ohms
GT2125 for front mid-bass – 2 x 125w @ 4ohms
GT24 for the subwoofer – 1 x 600w @ 4ohms (coupling the 2 channels)

Yes, I plan to run my front components active, and the rear is just gonna be a set of coaxials.
Could you please tell me a little more about these signal wires and speaker wires? In fact links to probably what I should be buying (brands and quality) would be of great help. Also I’m not sure about what gauge wire I should be going in for and why.

I’m really sorry but I’m a little unclear on “Many people like to buy a power and/or ground distribution block for their amp power and ground wiring. It's optional, but convenient in a 3 amplifier system.”

Like I said, I know very less about wiring at this point. It took me days to come up with the configuration I’m at right now. I’ve been watching and reading a lot of DIY videos and instructions to do all that I need to do.

Also, given my setup which distribution blocks do you recommend?

And with regard to deadening, I just plan to work on my front doors only for now. Maybe a little bit in the trunk while I’m there anyway. Nothing else.


And thank you cruzinbill for your response as well. I have the Audison Voce comps (AV 6.5 and Av 1.1, without passive crossover set) available to me for $450 (new). Are you recommending the Hertz HSK 165XL or the Hertz Mille over the Audison Voce?

And with respect to the sub enclosure, what do you recommend? And why not powerwedge (made by JL Audio for their own subs)? And I learnt JL subs are good at that price point for good SQ, don’t necessarily need SPL. I was also interested in AudioMobile now that they’re back, but just can’t seem to find where to buy ‘em.

And I agree with your last suggestion. Any pointers?
I was talking about the HSK's I just think for the price the hertz are better than the voce's. But at 450 I wouldnt really know I would lean toward the Voce at that price.

As for the sub, JL are good sounding subs. Its just in my opinion JL made these quick and easy powerwedges that will fit nearly anywhere because they can get people like you(no offense) to buy them thinking this is the most optimized box for this sub. When really, its usually barely decent at best and you could have built or had built a really nice box that fits better and even more into it tuned for your system.

So that being said, will it be a pile of ****... no its not a fleamarket box. I just feel its wasted money that could have been put towards a proper box.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
33 Posts
Discussion Starter · #7 ·

·
Registered
Joined
·
699 Posts
I know I wont be able to make one. Any pointers to how or where can I get a proper box?

Also, any inputs on this link:

Audison Voce AV K6 2 Way 165 Speaker Component System Brand New Free Shipping | eBay

I am considering to make this purchase, but any thoughts about the seller/product give the low price?
For the box find a local shop that knows there stuff. Im sure somone local on here should be able to help you on that.

As for the speakers on ebay, I will just say that to me personally its never worth the risk to by electronics from there vs an authorized dealer. It may be different for you as plenty of other people do it. I also wear my seatbelt all the time tho too and know plenty of people that dont lol. Its gonna just be your call if its worth the risk for the price for you.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
186 Posts
Could you please tell me a little more about these signal wires and speaker wires? In fact links to probably what I should be buying (brands and quality) would be of great help. Also I’m not sure about what gauge wire I should be going in for and why.
Well, I'm not too big on recommending what someone should buy, but I purchase most of my wiring from Knukonceptz. Here's a link to their signal wires section. I've had good luck with the Krystal Kable line. They're very large by signal wire standards, but that's because they're triple shielded. They also tend to be as cheap or cheaper than many of the bigger name brands. Gauge doesn't typically factor into the equation for RCA signal wires. They don't need to be big, but shielding adds thickness. They won't ever be carrying high currents. Signal wires in your case will run from the head unit (3 pairs) to the JBL MS-8. From there, you'll need 4 pair to run from the MS-8 to your amplifiers. Assuming you put the MS-8 in the trunk somewhere, that means you'll need 3 pairs of RCA signal wires that are something like 12-16 feet (measure before you buy) to go from your dash at the head unit to the trunk with your processor. The other 4 pairs will be shorter runs assuming the MS-8 is in the trunk for this. You'll just need to run them from the MS-8 to the individual BA amps. 2 pairs for the 4 channel, 1 pair for the 2 channel, 1 more pair for the sub amp.

Speaker wire is just how you get the amplified signals from the amps to the speakers. I recommended 16-12 gauge (wire sizes get larger the lower in number you go). 16 will do you fine for this install at these power levels. Bigger never hurts in these things. If you were giving your midbasses 300 watts each for instance, I'd be recommending 12 or even 10 gauge. Here's a useful chart to give you a ballpark idea on what matters there:


It will be useful for power wire sizing too.


I’m really sorry but I’m a little unclear on “Many people like to buy a power and/or ground distribution block for their amp power and ground wiring. It's optional, but convenient in a 3 amplifier system.”

Like I said, I know very less about wiring at this point. It took me days to come up with the configuration I’m at right now. I’ve been watching and reading a lot of DIY videos and instructions to do all that I need to do.

Also, given my setup which distribution blocks do you recommend?
Knu sells some distro blocks so you can check out what they look like and what sort of specifications they typically have. It's pretty much just a "wiring node" where multiple wire runs come together and share a common input or output. Some power blocks have onboard fuse holders making it further convenient. Don't feel restricted to Knu for those. If they don't have the configuration you need, shop around. You can find these from nearly every wire retailer. Some of the bigger distributors might be a good bet, like Car Audio Stereo - Car Subwoofers - Car Amplifiers and Speakers for instance so you can see what everybody has to offer. You can't use a distribution block for things like speaker wire, or anything else that has a signal running on it. Splitters might be a better bet for signal wires if you needed them, which I don't think you do.


And with regard to deadening, I just plan to work on my front doors only for now. Maybe a little bit in the trunk while I’m there anyway. Nothing else.
That's where you'll see the most gains. Trunk and doors. The trunk for your sub(s) and the doors for your fronts.


And with respect to the sub enclosure, what do you recommend? And why not powerwedge (made by JL Audio for their own subs)? And I learnt JL subs are good at that price point for good SQ, don’t necessarily need SPL. I was also interested in AudioMobile now that they’re back, but just can’t seem to find where to buy ‘em.

And I agree with your last suggestion. Any pointers?
He's right in that JL tends to consider convenience along with sound quality when they design their boxes. Most of their subs that I've looked at tend to desire a larger box than what JL offers. That said, if you want to take some of the variables out of the equation, it's doubtful you'll be disappointed in a premade JL box. Just know it could be a little better with a purpose built box. For instance, the powerwedge JL has for sale on their website for the 12w3v3 is only 1.28 cu. ft. WinISD (a box modeling program) recommends 2.0 cu. ft. It's easier to find a place to install a 1.28 ct. ft. box, but it's not optimal for the woofer. Ideally, a ported box can maintain flat amplitude better for that sub, but it's more like 4.34 cu. ft. At that point, you're starting to fill up your trunk completely.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
699 Posts
Well, I'm not too big on recommending what someone should buy, but I purchase most of my wiring from Knukonceptz. Here's a link to their signal wires section. I've had good luck with the Krystal Kable line. They're very large by signal wire standards, but that's because they're triple shielded. They also tend to be as cheap or cheaper than many of the bigger name brands. Gauge doesn't typically factor into the equation for RCA signal wires. They don't need to be big, but shielding adds thickness. They won't ever be carrying high currents. Signal wires in your case will run from the head unit (3 pairs) to the JBL MS-8. From there, you'll need 4 pair to run from the MS-8 to your amplifiers. Assuming you put the MS-8 in the trunk somewhere, that means you'll need 3 pairs of RCA signal wires that are something like 12-16 feet (measure before you buy) to go from your dash at the head unit to the trunk with your processor. The other 4 pairs will be shorter runs assuming the MS-8 is in the trunk for this. You'll just need to run them from the MS-8 to the individual BA amps. 2 pairs for the 4 channel, 1 pair for the 2 channel, 1 more pair for the sub amp.

Speaker wire is just how you get the amplified signals from the amps to the speakers. I recommended 16-12 gauge (wire sizes get larger the lower in number you go). 16 will do you fine for this install at these power levels. Bigger never hurts in these things. If you were giving your midbasses 300 watts each for instance, I'd be recommending 12 or even 10 gauge. Here's a useful chart to give you a ballpark idea on what matters there:


It will be useful for power wire sizing too.




Knu sells some distro blocks so you can check out what they look like and what sort of specifications they typically have. It's pretty much just a "wiring node" where multiple wire runs come together and share a common input or output. Some power blocks have onboard fuse holders making it further convenient. Don't feel restricted to Knu for those. If they don't have the configuration you need, shop around. You can find these from nearly every wire retailer. Some of the bigger distributors might be a good bet, like Car Audio Stereo - Car Subwoofers - Car Amplifiers and Speakers for instance so you can see what everybody has to offer. You can't use a distribution block for things like speaker wire, or anything else that has a signal running on it. Splitters might be a better bet for signal wires if you needed them, which I don't think you do.




That's where you'll see the most gains. Trunk and doors. The trunk for your sub(s) and the doors for your fronts.




He's right in that JL tends to consider convenience along with sound quality when they design their boxes. Most of their subs that I've looked at tend to desire a larger box than what JL offers. That said, if you want to take some of the variables out of the equation, it's doubtful you'll be disappointed in a premade JL box. Just know it could be a little better with a purpose built box. For instance, the powerwedge JL has for sale on their website for the 12w3v3 is only 1.28 cu. ft. WinISD (a box modeling program) recommends 2.0 cu. ft. It's easier to find a place to install a 1.28 ct. ft. box, but it's not optimal for the woofer. Ideally, a ported box can maintain flat amplitude better for that sub, but it's more like 4.34 cu. ft. At that point, you're starting to fill up your trunk completely.
pretty much agree with all that, i ddint read through all his wire mumbo jumbo but im sure its correct from what I did read.

Basically tho to play it safe, always use OFC wire and use a chart like he posted to determine size required for your install. My thoughts on a fuse block is this. FOR THE LOVE OF GOD..... get a decent block. get something that is well made non glass fused, and easy access if you need to pull it. If you need to pinch pennies somewhere dont do it on the fuse block.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
33 Posts
Discussion Starter · #11 ·
The whole wiring aspect is starting to make a lot more sense.

But before anything, I need to pull the trigger on my front stage. And the more I read, the greater dilemma I'm facing. Unfortunately I've been able to demo only Hertz, Audison, and HAT. But I'm finding myself strongly inclined towards Dynaudio and Scan Speak based on what I've been reading about them, in comparison to what I've demo'ed so far!

I'm tearing my hair out over this. Now looking at Dynaudio 242 GT and Scan Speak Illuminator (both around $900 for a pair of comps) as strong contenders.

Please help me out with any inputs on these! You already know where they're gonna be setup - '00 Accord EX with an MS-8 and I'll give them as much juice as needed with the BA GT line.

Please Help! :confused:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
33 Posts
Discussion Starter · #12 ·
The whole wiring aspect is starting to make a lot more sense.

But before anything, I need to pull the trigger on my front stage. And the more I read, the greater dilemma I'm facing. Unfortunately I've been able to demo only Hertz, Audison, and HAT. But I'm finding myself strongly inclined towards Dynaudio and Scan Speak based on what I've been reading about them, in comparison to what I've demo'ed so far!

I'm tearing my hair out over this. Now looking at Dynaudio 242 GT and Scan Speak Illuminator (both around $900 for a pair of comps) as strong contenders.

Please help me out with any inputs on these! You already know where they're gonna be setup - '00 Accord EX with an MS-8 and I'll give them as much juice as needed with the BA GT line.

Please Help! :confused:
Kinda tending towards the Dynas right now for 2 reasons:
1. Ease of installation vs. scan speak.
2. I loved the mid bass from Audison, but did not like the tweets very much. My ears tend to find most of the tweeters too harsh or bright easily.

The Dyna 242GT is listed for $830 on Woofersetc.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
699 Posts
Kinda tending towards the Dynas right now for 2 reasons:
1. Ease of installation vs. scan speak.
2. I loved the mid bass from Audison, but did not like the tweets very much. My ears tend to find most of the tweeters too harsh or bright easily.

The Dyna 242GT is listed for $830 on Woofersetc.
Well you cant exactly go wrong with those either
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
186 Posts
Kinda tending towards the Dynas right now for 2 reasons:
1. Ease of installation vs. scan speak.
2. I loved the mid bass from Audison, but did not like the tweets very much. My ears tend to find most of the tweeters too harsh or bright easily.

The Dyna 242GT is listed for $830 on Woofersetc.
It does sound like your tastes would be suited to dyns. The tweeters are very laid back, but accurate. Never heard the 162GT midbass, but I run the 172 8" in my car. Best midbass I've ever heard. Plenty of hit with plenty of warmth, without giving up on clarity. I can nit pick the tweeters and midranges, but I can't find anything wrong with dyns midbass.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4 Posts
great choice on the Boston acoustics gt line they are great amps , I have the gt2200 wired at 2 ohms mono and the gta704 3 ohms stereo and both sound beautiful and for the price they can't be beat.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
33 Posts
Discussion Starter · #16 ·
It does sound like your tastes would be suited to dyns. The tweeters are very laid back, but accurate. Never heard the 162GT midbass, but I run the 172 8" in my car. Best midbass I've ever heard. Plenty of hit with plenty of warmth, without giving up on clarity. I can nit pick the tweeters and midranges, but I can't find anything wrong with dyns midbass.
I listened to the Dyna 242 GT. Pretty good, absolutely non fatiguing but tweeters felt a bit lacking. Probably because they were passive crossovers at 100w RMS at each side?


great choice on the Boston acoustics gt line they are great amps , I have the gt2200 wired at 2 ohms mono and the gta704 3 ohms stereo and both sound beautiful and for the price they can't be beat.
Thanks! Very less inputs about the GT's out there. Could you share your experience with them or any comparisons?

-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Also a quick update. I have ordered the Pioneer AVH-X8500BHS head unit which should arrive in a month's time. And ordered the JBL MS-8, ETA 2 weeks.

Still working on finalizing the Front speakers and the Rear speakers.

I'll order the BA GT's accordingly once I've finalized the speakers.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
186 Posts
I listened to the Dyna 242 GT. Pretty good, absolutely non fatiguing but tweeters felt a bit lacking. Probably because they were passive crossovers at 100w RMS at each side?
I wouldn't rule the passives out, but the tweeters in the 242GT should be the same as my 362s (MD102s). If that's true, they are very laid back. I never ran mine passive to tell the difference. I've got the MD142 midranges complementing them in between the midbass and tweeter. Great for certain types of music, but if I had to point out the weak spot, the treble would be it. They've got up to 190 watts RMS on tap. My setup isn't ideal at the moment. My midranges and tweeters aren't sharing a plane (about 6" stagger), but they are sharing TA due to a lack of processing from my current deck (crossed on the amp). I can't give a full sense of how much of what I'm hearing is the drivers and how much is the lack of correct processing. They're still very solid performers for the music I like, but there are some tracks I know have bright treble that seem more neutral with these. My car is a warm acoustic environment to boot. I'm typically a soft dome fan, so take what you will from this little mini-review. You mentioned not liking bright and harsh tweeters, but liking warmer "European" midbass, so this sounded right up your alley.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
33 Posts
Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Also, will be replacing the car battery asap. I don't need the battery to last long, might be selling the car in less than 2 years. Probably after 1 year. But I need the batt to perform well while I have it and still give me breathing room to add more amplifiers if and when I do.

Suggestions? :confused:

(I know i need to take care of the big 3 and opt for a HO alt, but the battery is something I know less about - kindly help)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
186 Posts
The big 3 would be cheaper, and probably more effective in your case. For a dedicated car audio style battery, you'll want to stick to marine grade (deep cycle). It's made to discharge and recharge, whereas a starter type battery (like most oem batteries) is meant to stay topped off at all times. The chemistry is different. There are brands that market to the car audio crowd. Kinetik for instance. Batteries tend to have a touch of the "flavor of the month" reputation. Optima's yellow top used to be a big favorite, and now it's not. A search might pull up some useful brand names and get you started down that path.

A battery with a higher CCA rating is going to be better off for high current demands. It doesn't translate directly to car audio use, but you can use the numbers relative to one another to make some assumptions about performance. There's something called Peukert's Law that governs the chemistry of power draw for a battery. I'm afraid I'm not as well versed in batteries as I'd like to be.
 
1 - 20 of 33 Posts
Top