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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
ALLL PICTURES OF MY INSTALL ARE HERE: White Civic Install pictures by krisfnbs - Photobucket

THERE ARE 3 PAGES


Okay so a brief about my vehicle and the equipment/install I have done to it thus far:

-92 civic.
Deadening: Both front doors fully dynamated with double layers, trunk completely dynamated. I have even used dynaliner in certain areas. Probably about 80sqft throughout the car. I plan on doing the floor soon.
Wiring: I have ran KNU Konceptz high quality RCA's(4 and 2 channel), along with JL 9 wire for an easy simple run of speaker wire/remote.(down the driver side panel)
Power Wiring/Electrical upgrades: I have done the big 3 with 1/0, I have a kinetik HC1400 up front, I ran 1/0 to the rear directly into a digital volt splitter.(Nothing done to the alternator)

Now onto the equipment that I have.


Deck: Pioneer Premier Deh-p880prs running active.
Front mids: CDT ES-600's(roughly 90w each mid)
Front Tweeters: Rainbow Cal 20's(Roughly 20-25w per tweet)
Rear: No rears
Sub: MB Quart 15" RWE-352(700x1 @ 1ohm)
Main Amplifier: Memphis Big Belle
Amplifier I may install to add additional 2/4 channels: Memphis 16-MCA3004

What I need your help on:

I seriously feel that I could get more out of my frontstage. With the amp power that I have available(If I bridge my memphis belle amplifier, and the memphis 3004 amplifier, I could have 150 watts by 4 channels @ 4 ohm. I could even have MORE power if I were to find speakers that run at 2 ohm. But I dont know much about speakers that run at 2 ohm, or 8 ohm at that matter.) That should be almost plenty of power for what I am looking for. I mean I am barely using any of the power on my BELLE right now. I am just simply providing the power I do have available.

I mean I have not heard many great frontstages or anything, I only know some basic things that I have heard in the past. I am not the best installer, however with the pics I will be providing you guys at the bottom, I think I have overall done a good job. I wouldnt call myself a newbie, but definately not a guru either.

So with that being said, I have my mids in the door, and I have my tweeters in the dash installed in a non factory location, off axis(see picture). I have heard mixed reviews about installing tweeters off axis. I personally like the way it sounds, and it looks good in the car with the way I have it installed. BUT I am somewhat limited in what tweeters I can put in that location without having to customize it completely. I am working with a relatively small area(The rainbow cal 20 I have now is pretty darn small).

I am completely happy with my substage. I get a great response in the 1.5 sealed enclosure me and a friend made for it. 700w sealed is enough for me for when I feel the need to bump.


I listen to Alternative, Rock, Rap, R&B, I pretty much listen to everything except techno and country(but still even listen to that from time to time.)

So with having the ability with all of this amp power, 150x4 @ 4 ohms, 150x2 @ 4 ohms AND 75wx2 @ 4 ohms, I mean you name it I pretty much have it. I have the sub completely set where I want it

WHAT MIDS AND TWEETERS WOULD YOU USE IN AN ACTIVE 2 WAY FRONTSTAGE WITH THE AMAZING CAPABILITIES OF THE 880PRS?

One last thing. I am a HUGE fan of silk tweeters, I HATE metal based tweeters. I have a pair of the Seas textile dome tweeters here:
THE ART OF SOUND PERFECTION BY SEAS - H1396-04 27TFFNC/G

Based on what I have read on here, these are great tweeters(havnt had a chance to install them yet, too cold outside). These are about the biggest tweeters I can fit in my current tweeter location.(and it might be a bit tough)

Anyways I appreciate all of the input I can get from you guys. please comment on ANYTHING you feel the need that can make my system better!

IF I do end up using the seas tweeters, they were about $70, so I would be willing to spend $100-200 on mid drivers/ each

THANKS!!!!
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
I was thinking something along the lines of the Peerless HDS 830883, Seas Excel W18NX...
 

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Do you mean an active three way front stage with the addition of a mid bass? Thus, the cdt's as midrange and seas as the tweets? Or do you want to replace the cdt with lets say the w18nx?
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Do you mean an active three way front stage with the addition of a mid bass? Thus, the cdt's as midrange and seas as the tweets? Or do you want to replace the cdt with lets say the w18nx?
No, I wont be running an active 3 way frontstage. I dont believe I am ready to do that with kicks etc. A bit more wiring to do with getting the sub a signal. I would be replacing the CDT with something like the w18nx yes.

I just want to upgrade my midrange driver. the CDT is nice, I have never had a problem with it, but I want to experience some raw drivers because from what I am reading, they are as good as mids in "name brand" 200-1000 sets.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I have also been reading information from this website:

Zaph|Audio

But I cant seem to make up my damn mind.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I have narrowed it down to either the Seas P18RNXP, Peerless HDS 830883, Seas CA18RNX, Seas Excel W18NX or something along the lines of that.

I will end up sticking with the SEAS - H1396-04 27TFFNC/G tweeter.
 

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Well, I'll offer my opinion of course :)

I ran the W18NX driver for a good amount of time and loved it. The ability to cleanly play to 2.5 Khz was ideal in a two way setup, however, I did have a tweeter capable of playing down that low as well.

I recently just replaced my woofer, and surely thought it would be another pair of w18nx. However, I had some great help from the forum on a cost effective alternate, and actually like it MORE then the w18nx.

Heres a link to the thread, it has some great info: http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum...ak-illuminator-18wu-87-a.html?highlight=w18nx


Also, these drivers are 8 ohm, so will roughly see half the rated power at 4 ohms. I ran the w18nx at 210 rms watts at 4 ohms, and they did just fine. I'm now running the 8 ohm Usher's at 380 watts at 4 ohms, and their really shining.

EDIT: Saw your post above. Is cost a factor at all?
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Do you have channels available to bridge to the woofers?
yes. I can bridge the 4 channels on the memphis belle and get 150x2 @4 ohm for the mids, I then have a Memphis 3004 I can use for the tweeters, Would definately be overkill because I will have an extra 2 channels I wouldnt be using but I have enough Power.

Cost is ehhh.... yeah I guess it is an issue. I really wouldnt want to drop $400 on a pair of drivers. as much as I would want to try those higher end seas, Id be more comfortable around the $70-120 per driver.
 

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hhmmmmm....well ****. I have no problem suggesting the Usher drivers. They are as highly regarded in Home Audio as are the w18nx in car audio.

I mean, they almost even look alike :)

Ushers....




Seas.....




But before I go and say I think XXXX will go, whats your max depth and magent diameter (check the size on the Usher, its a BIG momma) ?


Also, how would you say your tweeters sound in terms of warm or cold, crisp or smooth, ect....and how low will you cross them?

I see no reason droppng $400 on the mids unless its absolutely neccessary
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
I will have to check my depth and magnet diameter tomorrow afternoon as its dark outside and COLD which is always a pain in the ass. Do you have a link for these usher mids? They do look similar
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Yup, those are them....my build thread towards the end has some closeups of the cone.
What is the main difference between the Usher 8945A and Usher 8945P? They seem to cost the same. I am seeing that the A version has a better upper midrange?
 

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From what I understand, the P version has the better upper range/capability. Its ironic that you mention the A, as I intended to purchase those, however, they are back ordered and parts express only has one, not a pair. They are supposedly better in the low end as they have more cone area to move air (lack of phase plug).

Either way, I was told the P have are better for 2 way setups.
 

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From what I understand, the P version has the better upper range/capability. Its ironic that you mention the A, as I intended to purchase those, however, they are back ordered and parts express only has one, not a pair. They are supposedly better in the low end as they have more cone area to move air (lack of phase plug).

Either way, I was told the P are better for 2 way setups.


Regardless, all the drivers discussed are good. If I were you, I would see exactly what you can fit, the airspace you have available, and then critically determine the best performer for that application. Also, there isn't really much to lose to try them as the resale value would hold should you not like anything mentioned, however, thats highly unlikely :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
From what I understand, the P version has the better upper range/capability. Its ironic that you mention the A, as I intended to purchase those, however, they are back ordered and parts express only has one, not a pair. They are supposedly better in the low end as they have more cone area to move air (lack of phase plug).

Either way, I was told the P are better for 2 way setups.


Regardless, all the drivers discussed are good. If I were you, I would see exactly what you can fit, the airspace you have available, and then critically determine the best performer for that application. Also, there isn't really much to lose to try them as the resale value would hold should you not like anything mentioned, however, thats highly unlikely :)
check ebay..... the usher drivers are there, and they seem cheaper than parts express.

Im gonna check the area which I am working with tomorrow and measure. I really hope I can directly fit the ushers, if not looks like I will be doing some cutting :)
 

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I'll be anxious to here your opinion should you choose them :)

I cranked mine the other day and they sounded so good. More importantly, their "sound" didn't change with volume.

And to have the w18nx as the backup plan....****, you can't go wrong
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
I'll be anxious to here your opinion should you choose them :)

I cranked mine the other day and they sounded so good. More importantly, their "sound" didn't change with volume.
what do you have them crossed at?....if you dont mind me asking.
 
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