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Thought I might share a little bit of my lockdown project with everyone.

Visit my YouTube if you are bored to hear about more, try to be nice haha:

Of course the stock Bose had nothing to be desired and after a couple years I had enough.
Essentially, I wanted to build a simple SQ build for the Z. I usually go all out with big power amps, 10 channels etc. Because I still wanted to keep the car somewhat less complicated and "light" I opted for a Helix Psix Dsp mk2 to do the front stage and separate subwoofer amp.

Unfortunately, I didn't take a lot of pictures of the build, but here it goes:
Front stage
Tweeter: Brax ML1
Midrange: Audible Physics Nz3AlBe wideband changed to the current NZ3 (orange dustcap)
Midbass: Morel Admw 10"
Subwoofers: 2 Audiomobile Evo 10s @1ohm

Processing/amplification:
Clarion Nx807 Optical out to Helix, no rcas
Helix Dsp Psix Mk2 with Bluetooh direct
Taramps MD3000.1

I hadn't built a set of pillars in a couple years, so i was hoping I still had some skill left. Speakers were aimed to have the most linear response in their respective passbands. The aim was to have as large enclosure for the midrange to ensure playability down to 250hz. I can say i am very impressed with the Ap nz3s. They play the low end extremely well, and being on axis they are able to play fully to 20khz no problem. They required very little eqing which i was happy to see.

Building the pillars are straight forward. Flush mount mdf rings were made the aimed on the pillars. Grill cloth was then fiberglassed on after getting the initial shape. Then fiberglass mat was used to reinforce the shape. Evercoat fiberglass filler with microspheres and milled mat was used. The body filler was used to fill in any pinholes thereafter. A milkshake mixture was poured inside into the enclosure and the pillar hole for the vent was filled with fiberglass and remilkshaked.
Gm ebony vinyl was tailor fit to the panel. The nice thing about vinyl is it covers quite a lot, so a perfect finish isn't super necessary.
Soundskins deadner along with Noico was used to help panel resonance.

Here are the pillars today:
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I then proceeded to gut the car to run all the wiring and put on the Soundskins and Noico deadner. I forgot to take any pictures of the process though.

Since I was going to utilize the doors for the mid bass, which I don't like to do, I wanted to make sure they were solid. The doors were deadned extensively. A custom wood birch panel was used for the service hole. A custom speaker ring was then made for the 10 inch Morels. I honestly have to say if you aren't doing bigger then an 8" you are wasting your time. These doors are excellent for a great midbass if you reinforce the doors correctly. I have very minimal resonance and rattle. The door panels inards where the speaker meets the panel was completely ground out to help clearance the woofer. Its amazing how much GM covered them for no real reason. Sorry no pics of the panels though






After that the front stage was wired up with separate wire colors for tweeter, midrange, and midbass. All wires were tesa taped to the hatch..


 

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I don't have much pictures of the enclosure for the subs but they are .75ish ft3 each upfiring. If it wasn't for my airtank, the enclosure would have been there downfiring. The enclosure has separate chambers instead of sharing one. The box was built with .75 inch mdf all around.





In my experience, since there is no way to reinforce the hatch and to prevent rattling of the hatch lid, a loading board is a useful technique. Although its not the pretty solution, it pays dividends to prevent rattles. The subs needed minimal eq after time alignment and have near perfect response matching my house curve from 50hz to 20hz thanks to cabin gain. Cabin gain is so good in these cars, but thanks to the higher qtc, no subsonic filter is needed as the box helps quell the sub with an acoustic crossover right after 20hz. The 4th order lr slope was near perfect which is an important difference to check from your electrical crossover point. Of course approx. 1lb of fiber fill was used as well.




For the amp rack, I opted for something simple that I could later build beauty panels for. As of right now, I just built a simple cover, but plan to do a metal mesh window in a few weeks.
Oversized 0 gauge ofc wire was lugged, loomed, and heat shrinked to a circuit breaker by the top of the wheel well close to the battery. Same was done for the ground to the battery.
The amp rack was then neatly put together over the course of a few days. You'd be surprised how long stripping, heat shrinking, and looming wire takes.




Ill try to post more tomorrow :)
 

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Nice install!
 
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Nice install. What do you think of the taramps 3k? I was thinking about grabbing one to downsize my gigantic class AB 2 channel amp.
 

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And thats pretty much it. I'm still doing some minor tweaks to the tuning after doing the initial. If anyone knows there's always something to tweak, but overall I am very happy.

Tuning was done with a Umik 90* mic. Not much to say other than rew was used.

I forgot to mention the Director controller that I installed on the center console seen above. I upholstered it to match my Alcantara steering wheel with anthracite 9002 $$$ ouch.

Here is how the trunk sits atm until I start the beauty panels. Will be redoing the trunk panels once I get a router hopefully. Its a little ugly to say the least.




Charging system upgrade was done earlier as well:


 

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Got my hands on the latest set of Audible Physics NZ3s a week ago to replace my AlBe's. Very happy with the swap, not a drastic difference but definitely a great move.

I ended up testing out the Focal 3w2Be's in place of the Audible Physics for a good month. Definitely a step backwards. Sometimes because something costs more doesn't necessitate to being better. They are still great speakers though!

Tried the new NZ3s at 200hz 4th order, pretty amazing to seem them play even lower than the AlBe's did. Truly amazed at their performance. Decided to stick with a 300hz-8khz 4th order LR. Seems to be the sweet spot in the car.

I will commend Focal for always being very true to their FR charts. They are always spot on when I test them out. The Focals were a nightmare for me to tune though, not exactly sure why. Probably because of the crazy response after 2khz. would most definitely love to swap a TBM tweeter in the car because the sound of Beryllium is just down right amazing. So much more "creamy" and "clear" than any silk dome I have ever tried.


Focal's 3w2Be installed

New NZ3s

Not a huge fan of the copper color dust cap meh.

New pressed grills were made, what a nightmare!
I ended up recarpeting the trunk with a much pusher nice looking carpet as well.
275531
 

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Nice install. What do you think of the taramps 3k? I was thinking about grabbing one to downsize my gigantic class AB 2 channel amp.


To me the amp is a great cheap alternative. It does whats asked of it. The fan is kind of noisy and it does look cheap. I also hate the 4g terminals which is stupid. Well its undersized 4g actually.

I also noticed it does not like low voltage. I was tuning and my battery charger stopped and battery hit 11.5v. The amp with the fan started making some really weird loud sounds. I hear its common on low voltage that they like to blow up, take it with a grain of salt.

I would buy another one though. 1
 

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10" midbass in front doors is what dreams are made of lol

So how much power is going to everything now?
 

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10" midbass in front doors is what dreams are made of lol

So how much power is going to everything now?
Go big or go home haha! They are an absolute joy to have.

Front stage is powered by the P six, so around 120w per channel. Allegedly, the Taramps is 3000w @ 1ohm, its probably +-500w i'm guessing.
 

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After reading "I would buy another one though" I looked into them. They dyno really well! I'm thinking about trying their 1200W 2 ohm amp on a pair of GB12's.
Is there a dyno run of the md3000.1?
I mean hey I totally dig it for the price. Its a crazy bargain amp and hasnt skipped a beat. Just wish they had better terminals!
 
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