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I limited this to 0/1 AWG Cables to maintain perspective

I would prefer welding/ battery cables to CCA, especially given the skin effect, but with the amount of money that is spent on your car audio system, the power and ground cables and procedures are not the areas to cut corners especially given that the power and grounds are where the system begins and ends. I believe in getting the most out of my equipment for the longest amount of time.

I personally like tinned OFC to help avoid corrosion on your end points. Not sure if the silver tinning helps with resistance. "Good" car audio cables are normally larger than the AWG rating. I prefer to run cables which specify "car audio" vs "battery or power cables/ welding". Also, check ratings, temperature and amps. Welding cable is rated around 285 amps while many "good quality" car audio cables are rated about 350 amps. The "KnuKoncept" cables that I listed below are rated at 375 amps. Obviously, its not the best idea to run a constant current at the cables rating, but chances are, if your system specs draw 350 amps, it is rarely continuously. A good note on cables never run lesser ground cables then power cables.

It never hurts to run an extra ground, and always remove paint first. This works great with a drill to clear paint:
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Avanti-Pro-3-in-Wire-Cup-Brush-PWW030CUPD01G/202831066

You don't have to follow these extra options, but they won't hurt.

When grounding, the little things can help out alot. Its a good idea to try and run solid aluminum bolts/ screws if possible, brass, then finally, zinc plated (very easy to find). Using these types of bolts not only ground to the surface but also along the entire contact of the bolt. Also, use of "star" washers are a good idea to help "edge in" to the conductive metals. Personally I wouldn't waste the money on copper if they are even available.

Using a di-electric grease isn't a bad idea either. NO, it is not conductive, but it helps keep moisture away, helps avoid seizing, helps to clear away contaminants from your connections, and helps to avoid corrosion. The same stuff used on spark plugs. Basically, it doesn't conduct electricity, but it helps to aid in the conductive surfaces. Very cheap and will help to extend life and avoid headaches. Some claim to "insulate" from external EFI fields, but who knows.
Di-electric from Autozone:
https://www.autozone.com/greases-and-gear-oil/lubricant-grease/permatex-33-oz-9-355-g-dielectric-tune-up-grease/125419_0_0

The following is a personal list of the best per cost car audio cables (based on cable alone not insulation)

+1/0 AWG

"KnuKoncepts Flex or Candy": Largest Cable/ Super Flexible/ Decent Price + Deals/ Tinned OFC (about $3.50/ft + shipping)/ Multiple Color Choices/thin PVC insulation rated about normal though
http://www.knukonceptz.com/mobile-audio/power-wire/kolossus-fleks-kable/sp/kolossus-fleks-kable-10-black-powerground-wire/
http://www.knukonceptz.com/mobile-audio/power-wire/kolossus-kandy-kable/sp/kolossus-kandy-10-blue-powerground-wire/

"Conext Link" - {Brand** always check the details on ebay "Conext Link" Store} Cable (Amazon and Ebay): Large/NVX size/ Good Price + Deals/average insulation/ Tinned OFC/ Decent Color Choices/ Pretty-Flexible ($3.00/ft + Free Shipping) Definitely a favorite/(Not sure about the unbranded, at your own risk, never had a problem with Conext Link store though
https://www.amazon.com/Conext-Link-Battery-Ground-Copper/dp/B06XDCHLZH/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1511752619&sr=8-6&keywords=conext+cable+0+awg
Try Conext Link store first for deals:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/20ft-Feet-1-0-GA-Gauge-AWG-Power-Cable-Wire-Tinned-OFC-Copper-Ground-Frost-Blue-/122473391730?hash=item1c83fba672
**This is unbranded, but I've never had a problem with the store and the specs state more strands (doesn't necessarily mean a bigger cable)

"Funkin Audio" (Pops Up sometimes): Negligibly smaller than Conext Link, very close/ Pretty-Flexible (normally $3.00/ft + crazy deals if you can find it (super affordable car audio power cable/ Tinned OFC
Mostly Ebay was sold by Conext Link Ebay Seller for %30 off, but goes quick
Also, try Amazon (sorry, no direct links)

"NVX True Spec 100% OFC" (Always check to make sure its the 100% OFC): Great Flexibility/ Silver Tinned %100 OFC/ Decent Color Choices/(around $4.00/ft +MSRP strict**) Same or slightly larger than Conext link/ NVX brand has a great deal on their %100 OFC BIG 3 Set/ Nice Build Quality
https://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_105307_NVX-XW0BK20.html
**The trick save money on this or other Sonic Electronix items (works most of the time, but not always, mostly with accessories, but you can always try amps and speakers)
1. Set Up a sign-in email account
2. Login
3. Place whatever accessory you would like in the cart
4. Leave the cart and wait 24-72 hours for an email with a discount code
**You may get an email for a %5 off your cart code, but I have gotten up to %15 (I think it took about 5 days)

1/0 AWG - Welding/ Power Cable

Tempco Brand Amazon and Ebay: 100% OFC no tin/ Exact Specs AWG/ Smaller than the previously listed and not tinned (moisture issues may arise)/ around $2.40/ft - May get lucky with deal / not very flexibly/ Very heavy insulation for durability/ Limited color/ Bland Appearance



Feel free to add some other quality cables or thoughts and opinions which you may believe could be helpful to others. I hope this helps someone out.
 

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Discussion Starter #2
Final Note:

This is my personal preference, but when it comes to "Monster" brand cables, I try and steer clear. I do believe that most of what you're paying for is the name. Even though that point is probably the same with regards to JL Audio, Fosgate, etc. Monster tries to trick people by using long plastic inserts in the middle of their power cables to try and make the copper cabling itself "look" thicker, and although many companies from time to time try some type of gimmick, this to me is nothing more than an attempt to scam people out of their hard earned money and should not be tolerated.
 

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i use knukonceptz kolossus fleks.

i did buy that funkin stuff when diyma had that sale. couldnt bead it at 30 or less i think, but man, i kinda wish i didnt buy it. felt like it was more 8 guage than 4 gauge when i bought it. compared to the wire mount from knukonceptz. the knukonceptz has more.
 

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Re: Cost and Effectiveness: Welding vs. Car Audio Cables & Ground Pointers

Not having read the entire first post, only commenting on your first sentence. Skin effect is only a product of ac, it isn't a part of dc current.

Sent from my LG-V20 using Tapatalk
 

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Re: Cost and Effectiveness: Welding vs. Car Audio Cables & Ground Pointers

Not having read the entire first post, only commenting on your first sentence. Skin effect is only a product of ac, it isn't a part of dc current.

Sent from my LG-V20 using Tapatalk
Yep. So you don't need to worry about it at all for power cables (not that you really need to worry about it on speaker wire either).

The material that the power cable is made out of isn't really important. OFC is great, but CCA will do just as well as long as it's sized larger to account for resistance. Welding cable is usually the best value, as long as you get the stuff that is flexible enough.
 

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Re: Cost and Effectiveness: Welding vs. Car Audio Cables & Ground Pointers

Yep. So you don't need to worry about it at all for power cables (not that you really need to worry about it on speaker wire either).

The material that the power cable is made out of isn't really important. OFC is great, but CCA will do just as well as long as it's sized larger to account for resistance. Welding cable is usually the best value, as long as you get the stuff that is flexible enough.
Sure, CCA is usable, as long as you make up for it in the gauge of the wire, but given that this post is about the "quality" of cables, I had no desire to research the "quality" of CCA.
 

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The major problem I've had with CCA is corrosion. The last 2 vehicles I've owned I've used the cheaper Knu Konceptz super flex CCA wire because it's so flexible. But I've had corroded ends on my ground connections to my truck frame and I've experienced a melting Alternator wire. A few months ago, I switched all Big 4, power, and ground cables to Knu Konceptz tinned OFC with soldered terminals and have had no issues with corrosion. But believe me folks, you do not want corroded ends on your vehicles battery, alternator, or ground wires. Aside from having your stereo not work, corroded ends could leave your vehicle stranded somewhere. ALWAYS use OFC.
 

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I use some brand of welding cable, I can’t think of the name. The reason being, I can get larger sizes, and they are held to much stricter standards. I’ve seen to many ‘car audio’ cabling write what ever they feel like on it. My friend does welding on sub marines and other sensitive jobs like that where there can be zero mistakes, and gets welding cable from a specific company.

TLDR: guy uses huge cable that falls into his lap, and is of high quality to avoid over hyper ‘car audio’ cable. Cool story bro.
 

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I’ve been using “Sky High Car Audio” OFC for my power, ground and speaker wires. It seems to be pretty high quality at a reasonable price.
Hashtag me too.;) The Sky High cables I've bought over the past year has been some of the easiest I've ever used due to the softer jacket material. It's very similar to some of the more flexible welding cables I've seen.
 

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Final Note:

This is my personal preference, but when it comes to "Monster" brand cables, I try and steer clear. I do believe that most of what you're paying for is the name. Even though that point is probably the same with regards to JL Audio, Fosgate, etc. Monster tries to trick people by using long plastic inserts in the middle of their power cables to try and make the copper cabling itself "look" thicker, and although many companies from time to time try some type of gimmick, this to me is nothing more than an attempt to scam people out of their hard earned money and should not be tolerated.
Monster makes cable for musicians / studios as well. It's widely regarded as overpriced crap by any professional in those fields (well, I can't claim to speak for all but I've never heard anyone bragging on their monster cables, nor have I ever seen "monster" listed on any gear list. It's always Canare, Mogami, maybe Gepco, many others, but no Monster. It's Best Buy / Guitar Center's frivolous markup brand in my opinion.

It's one of the "Beats Headphones" of cables. (They put weights inside some of their headphones to make them feel higher quality - nice work guys).
 
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