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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey, I’m pretty new to this stuff and looking for some advice. I have standard 4 speaker, dash(tweeters) and door(2way) setup for my camper (VW Transporter T5 2005). The only upgrade is a Sony XAV-601BT head unit.
I want to change the speakers and add my old sub and 1 amp.
I’m not very experienced though and have a few questions. I will probably go for a plug and play upgrade kit, so I don’t have to go down a loom and adapter rabbit hole. Here are the two kits I’m thinking about:
  • Blam 20cm Plug and Play KIT VW Transporter speaker upgrade
  • Audiofrog G60S Plug and play VW Transporter speaker upgrade

  • Here are my questions:

  • The ‘Blam’ bundle includes 8” upgrade with collars which apparently still fit behind the door card. As I have no rear speakers getting the most power out of these door speakers makes sense, and so (to me) upgrading to max size is easiest way to do this. Am I wrong? Would the standard 6.5” ‘Audiofrog’ setup just sound a lot better? Or would you just direct me to different bundles over these?
  • It’s meant to be a simple swap over, plug and play. Is this actually nonsense? Should I be changing the speaker wires for an upgrade like this? Any other changes (assuming I want to keep the head unit)?
  • What sort of amp would people suggest for this setup? The sub I have from when I was younger (actually 20 years old) is still working well. It’s a really nice reference class Alpine 12”, boxed with the right dimensions. I’m assuming it would be a 4-channel amp, with two for the L/R and bridging two into the sub? Any recommendations?
  • Is this head unit capable of running the changes above, including the sub and amp? I read the specs but they go down like hot banana… https://www.sony.co.uk/electronics/...a-players-xav-series/xav-601bt/specifications
  • Any other tips or advice for this upgrade? I intend to install sound deadening sheets in both doors while I’m there.
Thanks a lot for reading, and for your time guys (n’gurls)
Chris
 

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2018 Honda Accord EXL 2.0 GB 3way doors GB40/10 centre Helix M4dsp/M6 Sundown salt MMats + more
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My gut instinct goes towards the blam. But in a 2 way configuration the 8" and the 1" tweeter will not pair properly. The 8" hits beaming before the 6" and the 1" tweeter will not mate with either properly. The blam will play lower but in car doors you may not get the benefits. I still think in my opinion that the blam is higher quality the the audiofrog.

As far as amp choice a 4 channel would work if you are using the provided passive crossover the speakers come with. But bridging to a sub will get you very little power to your sub. You could consider a 5 channel amp and run your front active. But the 4 channel will be the easier way.
 

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2018 Honda Accord EXL 2.0 GB 3way doors GB40/10 centre Helix M4dsp/M6 Sundown salt MMats + more
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And just glancing at your head unit it has the capability to run your front stage active. I believe you can set your crossovers through your head unit. It says 4.1 I'm assuming left/right front/rear and sub. But possibly you could use front midbass rear tweeter but the fader will lower the volume of the set instead of rear and front. Just a thought, I like to over complicate things so take my advice with a grain of salt.
 

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2018 Honda Accord EXL 2.0 GB 3way doors GB40/10 centre Helix M4dsp/M6 Sundown salt MMats + more
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You know what that head unit only has a high pass filter I think so forget about what I said about it being able to run your set active. Lol like I said I like to over complicate things
 

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I've installed many different sets of speakers in T5/T6 Transporters, both universal and plug+play, 6,5" and 8" of both kinds. The speaker cutout is closer to 9", so a spacer/adapter is needed even when using 8" drivers. Plug+play sets usually has this integrated into the woofer. Some don't, Focal ISU200 for T5 comes with regular drivers + spacers, and connectors between the OEM speaker plug and the inputs on the drivers.

OEM speaker placement is compromised anyway, so the extra low end output from an 8" is far more noticable in a positive way than negative effects of beaming.

This sounds great and would be my recommendation, especially since you're planning to run a proper amplifier, not just head unit power.

Ground Zero GZCS 200.2VW-T5/T6

Output device Camera lens Camera accessory Gadget Flash photography




Here you can see the install process on speakers pretty much the same in construction.

 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Thanks for replies so far. So what's your opinion on the importance of changing VW standard speaker wires for better quality? Is this necessary part of the upgrade or pointless?
 

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It's not pointless. Really depends on the quality of the factory speaker wire. I would change it out. Your gonna have to run wire regardless unless you mount you amp where the factory amp or head unit is. Might as well put some OFC speaker wire. Especially since your amplifying those new speakers.
 

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VW t5s Have decent speaker wire to the doors (mine is also a 2005) - I didn't measure, but I'd guess close to 16g - plenty for anything you're likely to run. on the plus side, it's also a really simple job on these to run cable to the doors - no connectors to worry about.

As Haakono said, the door speakers are in a terrible position, so go for bigger midbass and don't worry about the beaming.

The biggest gain for me was getting a headunit that allowed me to run it active (each speaker (2x midbass & 2x tweeters) can be adjusted for both time alignment and crossover etc). really improved the staging.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
VW t5s Have decent speaker wire to the doors (mine is also a 2005) - I didn't measure, but I'd guess close to 16g - plenty for anything you're likely to run. on the plus side, it's also a really simple job on these to run cable to the doors - no connectors to worry about.

As Haakono said, the door speakers are in a terrible position, so go for bigger midbass and don't worry about the beaming.

The biggest gain for me was getting a headunit that allowed me to run it active (each speaker (2x midbass & 2x tweeters) can be adjusted for both time alignment and crossover etc). really improved the staging.
Great thanks a lot for this help. Im not sure what you mean in your last paragraph, but I have a friend that might. Any idea if my head unit is capable of 'running it active'? https://www.sony.co.uk/electronics/...a-players-xav-series/xav-601bt/specifications
 

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The best transporter I’ve heard was a set of hybrid audio unity 6x9 fitted into collars and a set of unity 2 full ranges fitted on the dash corners on axis roughly, give a very wide and uniform stage, far superior to a two way system with a tweeter

Look up subtronix near Mansfield, Nottinghamshire for where I heard the last one I heard, you might also end up with me tuning the vehicle if it has a dsp fitted 😉 I don’t work there but I am team subtronix for sound off SQ competition
 
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