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Discussion Starter #1
Hey guys. After months of research I've come up with this list of stuff. What do you think? Am I missing anything?

Couple questions:

1. I plan on bridging the 4ch amp's rear channel to my sub. Is this an okay practice over a dedicated mono amp? This should give me 320w RMS @ 4Ohms to the sub. Only problem is the Polk speakers are 2.7Ohms. Is it bad to run the front @ 2.7Ohms and the rear @ 4Ohms? I just really want to keep it to one amp for simplicity and price...

2. The head unit has 3 sets of RCA outs. Would I use the rear outs or the sub outs going to the amp on the subs bridged channel?

3. Should I do the big 3 for a 640w amp? My stock alternator does 80A. Seems like a good upgrade for not too much money.


Components


Polk Audio MM6501. For the front doors. I heard these in person and fell in love. It matches well with the amp I want as well since they're 2.7Ohms.


Head Unit


Pioneer DEH-X9600BHS. Has all the features I need and want and has 4V RCA preouts which is a bonus.


Amplifier


hifonics BRX616.4. I know it's cheaper, but I've read nothing but great things about this amp on every review site I've been too. If I calculated right, it should do 132W RMS at 2.7Ohms. That gives me the slightest bit of headroom over the 125W RMS of the MM6501's. And the bridged rear channel will do 320W to the sub, which is more than enough for my needs.


Sub + Enclosure


Kicker 40CWS124. Is this an okay sub?

1.5 Cu.Ft Sealed Enclosure.


Installation/Accessories


Scosche HA1561DGB Single or Double DIN Installation Dash Kit.

Scosche HA10B Wiring Harness.

Scosche HAAB Antenna Adapter.

Scosche SAHC634 Speaker Brackets.

Belva BAK44 Amp Install Kit.
Is this install kit okay? I know it's cheap but it's got good reviews.

NVX Sound Dampening. For dampening the doors.

I'm a complete noob to car audio. Thanks in advance for your help.
 

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Hey Parkdaddy,
Welcome to the almost endless posibilities of car audio where as like anything else in life is dependent on the amount of disposable income one has. Lol.
I'm learning myself so, I will not be of great assistance to you But, through my countless hours of research I have picked up on a thing or 2.
First thing I would ask is what's your budget?
IMHO, if you are going w an aftermarket HU and i would invest in one that will provide you w greater control of your audio. Time alignment, the more bands of EQ the better, built in cross overs is a plus ( In case in the future you want greater control of your audio you can run your components w the "active" crossover )
For $50 or 60 more you should check out pioneers 80prs
Has all this minus HD and sirrus.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Hey Parkdaddy,
Welcome to the almost endless posibilities of car audio where as like anything else in life is dependent on the amount of disposable income one has. Lol.
I'm learning myself so, I will not be of great assistance to you But, through my countless hours of research I have picked up on a thing or 2.
First thing I would ask is what's your budget?
IMHO, if you are going w an aftermarket HU and i would invest in one that will provide you w greater control of your audio. Time alignment, the more bands of EQ the better, built in cross overs is a plus ( In case in the future you want greater control of your audio you can run your components w the "active" crossover )
For $50 or 60 more you should check out pioneers 80prs
Has all this minus HD and sirrus.
I'm trying to keep it under $1k, including all accessories and install parts.

That head unit looks great.. I might have to pick it up..
 

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Nice to see another MN'er on here.

Yes, you can use a 4-channel amp and bridge the rears for a sub. That was how my first car audio system was setup and I was pleased with it at the time.

I would recommend this amp kit over the one you have listed:
Complete 4 Gauge 4 Channel Amplifier Installation Kit - Merchandise

It uses oxygen free copper (OFC) vs copper clad aluminum (CCA) like the Belva kit you have picked out. 4 gauge CCA conductivity is similar to 8 gauge OFC.

Knukonceptz also sells sound dampener, which has been tested as a very high performer:
Kno Knoise Kolossus Edition 2 Door Kit 14sq ft - Merchandise

I owned a Civic up until last year. I made the mistake of buying the Scosche dash kit first time around... it sucks and doesn't quite match the dash.

Its worth the extra money to buy the OEM Navi Dash piece and the Honda Element 1-din pocket.
 

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An 80prs is a great idea except your budget would also have to include a separate amp for the sub to take full advantage of the 80PRSs active crossover capabilities. You would need your 4 channel amp to feed one channel per driver, so two for your tweets, two for your mids, none for your sub. Of course it will probably sound way better than going passive but you gotta pay to play.

Kicker comp subs suck! Please don't buy that sub. Is $130 your budget for sub + enclosure?
 

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Discussion Starter #7 (Edited)
I have a used 80PRS. I can take pics tonight if you're interested.

Awesome HU, I just ended up going another route..can't beat it's EQ.
PM'd you brah. Thanks for the heads up.

Nice to see another MN'er on here.

Yes, you can use a 4-channel amp and bridge the rears for a sub. That was how my first car audio system was setup and I was pleased with it at the time.

I would recommend this amp kit over the one you have listed:
Complete 4 Gauge 4 Channel Amplifier Installation Kit - Merchandise

It uses oxygen free copper (OFC) vs copper clad aluminum (CCA) like the Belva kit you have picked out. 4 gauge CCA conductivity is similar to 8 gauge OFC.

Knukonceptz also sells sound dampener, which has been tested as a very high performer:
Kno Knoise Kolossus Edition 2 Door Kit 14sq ft - Merchandise

I owned a Civic up until last year. I made the mistake of buying the Scosche dash kit first time around... it sucks and doesn't quite match the dash.

Its worth the extra money to buy the OEM Navi Dash piece and the Honda Element 1-din pocket.
Hell yeah dude! MN FTW! Can the Twins make the wildcard?....

Awesome advice. Thank you! Do you happen to have a direct link to the Honda Navigation Dashboard? I definitely read some concerning things about the Scosche Dash Adapter such as it not matching the color right. I'd like to do it right so any input is helpful.

An 80prs is a great idea except your budget would also have to include a separate amp for the sub to take full advantage of the 80PRSs active crossover capabilities. You would need your 4 channel amp to feed one channel per driver, so two for your tweets, two for your mids, none for your sub. Of course it will probably sound way better than going passive but you gotta pay to play.

Kicker comp subs suck! Please don't buy that sub. Is $130 your budget for sub + enclosure?
Also awesome advice. Thank you! At this point I'm just worried about powering 2 amps with my stock 80A alternator. I would LOVE to get a DC Power alternator soon, but at this point in time my budget doesn't allow a $400 alternator. I may get the 80PRS with the knowledge of upgrading to 2 amps later.

What do you set the HPF at for tweeters? Do they run at the same RMS as the components they belong to? And when you use the active crossover capabilities of the HU, you disable or don't use the crossovers on the amp, right?

Also, I'm realizing more and more every day how I would like a really nice sub. I'm more into SQ subs I think. I want quality over quantity... I can definitely build an enclosure, I'm pretty woodworking savvy. If I had $200 to spend on a sub without the enclosure, and it was an SVC @ 4Ohms, or a DVC @ 2Ohms, what would you recommend?

Also, I just bought a NVX JAD 800.4 amp from babs on the classified subforum. Super excited! Seems like it will meet all my needs for now. I've decided to go with the Image Dynamics CTX 6.5 components.
 

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The part I ordered 77250-SNA-A01ZA (atlas gray).

But it looks like the current production part is 77222-SNA-A02ZA.

You should read through this thread for all the parts needed:
DIY: Aftermarket radio Install in an EX - 8th Generation Honda Civic Forum

It might give some insight between the differences if any of the part numbers, like how well the new part number color matches (mine matched great from what IIRC).

You might check 8thCivic's classifieds or eBay as well.
 

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As far as multiple amps go, I ran 2 class D amps on the stock alternator with a Group 34R AGM battery and upgraded battery grounds: JL HD600/4 and JLHD750/1.

If you get that power wire I suggested, you'll be able to add like a 500+ watt mono amp later on for your sub and run your front speakers active, so it gives you some flexibility.

Your tweeters won't come close to using all the power running active as they will get extremely loud with 25 watts.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Your tweeters won't come close to using all the power running active as they will get extremely loud with 25 watts.
So, pardon my noobishness, but do speakers only draw what they need or do amps push what they have? I mean, If I'm running active with a 4 channel amp that can do 150w RMS, it wouldn't damage the tweeters? Why or why not? Assuming I had the HPF set at say 4k for the tweeters.
 

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Here's the basic gist:

The signal sent to an amplifier will dictate how much power it should put out.

Since music is dynamic, the signal sent to the amplifier is going to fluctuate and so will the output power.

Your amplifier will not put out a steady 150wpc while listening to music.

You may only hit 150wpc during the loudest peaks in a song with the volume knob near maximum depending on how you set your gains on your amplifier.

Gain is used to match the sensitivity of the input source fed to the amplifier... its basically a ratio.

The higher you turn your gain up on a channel, the more amount of power it will put out at the given signal amount.

In the case of running active, if you turn your volume knob on your head unit to maximum, you can set your gains on your mids to put out 150wpc and set your gains on your tweeters to put out about 25wpc at a musical peak.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
In the case of running active, if you turn your volume knob on your head unit to maximum, you can set your gains on your mids to put out 150wpc and set your gains on your tweeters to put out about 25wpc at a musical peak.
Going active is really starting to look like the way to go... It'd be nice to not have to mount passive crossovers somewhere..

I should just spring for some raw drivers and tweeters then? What's the point in paying for components if I don't use the crossovers.

I've been looking and everybody seems to like the Silver Flute 6.5" mids and the Vifa xt25 tweeters. It'd be cheaper, too. Am I biting off more than I can chew for my first system? I don't mind the work.
 

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Choosing raw drivers / mixing and matching are one of the benefits of running active.

It depends on you if its too much for a first system. It adds additional install complexity (more RCA's, more speaker wire runs, multiple amps...).

Where most people struggle is once they get everything in they don't know how to setup the crossovers, gains and EQ. Just gets easier overtime.
 
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