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Guys,
I'd like to add some midbass speakers to my MBQ components to fatten them up a bit, and im trying to figure out the best way to get a 3 way active front with subs (4-way) without spending a lot on a DSP (H701, DXE, etc.).

There doesn't appear to be a regular crossover with a HP-BP-BP-LP set up - nothing made in the past few years anyway (looks like PPI made one a while back). The trouble is trying to get that second BP crossover to feed the midbasses with.

I can run the sub stage directly off the deck (9887) and use F+R from the deck to feed a 3 way crossover similar to the AudioControl 6XS (HP-BP-LP). For the midbass, I can set the LP crossover pretty high (250hz), then on the amp set the HP really low (80hz), in effect creating a bandpass. Will that work, or am I asking for trouble?

I have two 4 channel amps and one mono amp for the sub, so I have some flexibility there. Any suggestions on how I should do this?

Thanks!
Jason
 

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Without time alignment you run into pathlength issues. Long story short you're best off sticking with what you have. Doing what you're wanting to do with time alignment for each channel will only cause you to regret your choices. This is probably why your questions in this thread have been ignorned because there really isn't a good "cheap" option out there for going 4-way.
 

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I have a mint PPI frx-456 that I may be talked into selling. It is capable of running 4 way active.
 

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wait until may and get the Bitone. Should have all the bugs fixed by then.
 

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I'm thinking about getting a 3way active capable HU w/ T/A and running the High Preouts obviously to the Tweeters, the Mid Preouts to the Midrange, and the Sub outs to the midbass, and going from the Aux outs of the Midbass amp to the Sub amp and maybe sticking a sub control unit (Audio Control Epicenter or similar) between that signal. You only lose T/A on the sub but you keep all your Frontstage w/ decent tuning.
 

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I'm thinking about getting a 3way active capable HU w/ T/A and running the High Preouts obviously to the Tweeters, the Mid Preouts to the Midrange, and the Sub outs to the midbass, and going from the Aux outs of the Midbass amp to the Sub amp and maybe sticking a sub control unit (Audio Control Epicenter or similar) between that signal. You only lose T/A on the sub but you keep all your Frontstage w/ decent tuning.
Your frontstage would have decent tuning but you would have T/A on your sub. It would be whatever your midbass had since the signal change is in line before the amp and you are passing that signal on to the sub. If you were going to go that route, I would pick whichever speaker set had the least amount of delay added to it (usually the tweets) for the sub input since the sub sound is usually delayed from the other speakers anyway. Just thinking out loud for you there.
 

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Your frontstage would have decent tuning but you would have T/A on your sub. It would be whatever your midbass had since the signal change is in line before the amp and you are passing that signal on to the sub. If you were going to go that route, I would pick whichever speaker set had the least amount of delay added to it (usually the tweets) for the sub input since the sub sound is usually delayed from the other speakers anyway. Just thinking out loud for you there.
Ahhh, okay that makes sense. Thanks for the info. The reason I wanted to use the midbass was because the signal I would be sending them would be below 250hz-300hz and then I could HP them through the amp and I figured I could LP the sub amp to 63hz or so.
 

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That would work if you turned off t/a for the midbass and used a kenwood x4r on it and an x1r on the sub, since they both have their own t/a ability. :)
 
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