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I'm not saying they do hit the floor. Maybe there is no chance. I hope not. Wow a 1/4" ! Hard to believe that is all they move and sound so great !
Yup, a high shallow excursion is around 15mm. The TW3 is around 15mm and the SI BM MK's are around 15mm.

A high sub excursion in general is around high 20mm's. A JL w6 only has 19mm, the w7 has 29mm. The GB12D4 has 19mm. The SI SQL 12 and RM 12 both have around 29mm.

Also I did this with a single 10" TW3 sub in my truck (14 F150) testing out different locations and upfiring vs. downfiring. Downfiring on the passenger side was the best results. Second best was downfiring in the center seat area. Worst was upfiring and drivers side (the big dips)
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I think it says alot about Pioneer and their engineers.
I also had JCS model some shallows over on the better site: The pioneer is definitely a great budget pick, but it can't keep up with the better subs.
 

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This will be my last OT post on the subject, but the Pioneer is actually one of the last shallow mounts I would choose for a small sealed enclosure. The best thing about the Pioneer TS-SW is the price. Beyond that, it doesn't have a lot of redeeming value compared to other shallow mounts, in my opninion.

I understand that there are some people who like them, but I have to wonder how many other shallow mount subwoofers they have heard? Or if they have the same goals as most of the people around here with a focus on SQ vs punchy upper bass. I've modeled a ton in looking for options for my own vehicle as well as some for my brother. Alternates I would consider in order of ascending price...

Cadence SLW10
Dayton LS10
Kicker 43CWRT10
Pioneer TS-Z10LS
Oncore SM10
 

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My system is totally SQ and has 2 of them. I have heard several different shallow mounts in small sealed enclosures and I think these are close to the best for relatively low power, 300 watts RMS, and SQ.
 

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Can one one point me to the right capacitors to buy to protect my tweeters against the possibility of turn-off pop? A link to something at partsexpress would be much appreciated.
 

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Can one one point me to the right capacitors to buy to protect my tweeters against the possibility of turn-off pop? A link to something at partsexpress would be much appreciated.
I believe you want to pick a frequency at or below your tweeters Fs.


 

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Can one one point me to the right capacitors to buy to protect my tweeters against the possibility of turn-off pop? A link to something at partsexpress would be much appreciated.

You want a capacitor around 700-800hz.
A 47uf or 68uf cap are the normal ones to use as they give a 800hz or 600hz respectively for a 6db/oct cutoff on a 4ohm speaker. I went 47uf.
You don't want it too close to your dsp crossover cutoff otherwise it will impact that performance, but 600hz is plenty of protection for stupid on your tweeters for a couple of seconds.
 

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You want a capacitor around 700-800hz.
A 47uf or 68uf cap are the normal ones to use as they give a 800hz or 600hz respectively for a 6db/oct cutoff on a 4ohm speaker. I went 47uf.
You don't want it too close to your dsp crossover cutoff otherwise it will impact that performance, but 600hz is plenty of protection for stupid on your tweeters for a couple of seconds.
Thank you!


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So if you get a call, then you're answering it through the speaker phone or bringing it to your face basically?
It should. On android anyway, you have two BT setting. "Audio streams" and "phone calls" you can set different devices for either/or or both. It will only utilize one at a time (so if you get a call, music stops)

Sent from my LG-LS998 using Tapatalk
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because the phone connection is usually handled by the head unit (going out through the high level or analog inputs), does the dsp switch from the bluetooth stream back to the analog inputs in order to output the phone audio (when the audio pauses in the phone for the incomming call)? it seems like as long as you are streaming audio BT, the analog phone signal from the head unit (phone call) will be overridden...
for example my 2013 silverado has phone BT, but not audio BT..
 

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i was reluctant on doing that because on their manual, it said 'using this may cause popping and can damage speakers. please install resistor'

do you have that problem with the popping?
i bought an lc2i to avoid that
my read on that was that using the high level turn on would cause the popping... but you could use high level inputs, along side of the remote wire turn on and avoid that. maybe i'm wrong.
 

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Depends on input volume, eq setting. I have mine set to 60. It's clean

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Does the red backlighting on the master volume number (in the app) correspond to anything real? or does it just mean it's at the top of the range? mine starts shading at 57 I think, and increases to bold red at 66.
 

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60 is 0db and 66 is +6db. Each change is 1db. I scoped the signal and even at 66db it was a clean signal. That was with a 0db sine wave.

Theoretically at 66 you would be adding 6db to the whatever was input to the dsp and if it was any greater than -6db signal (usually only 20hz to 80hz have this chance), it would then be clipping. But this didn't happen for me when I scoped it so I don't really know the point of it.....
 

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Thanks for that.

I finally got my dsp hooked up (replaced a lc7i that was acting up). The bluetooth streaming is working well, and jumps back and forth appropriately, as my phone is connected to the vehicle BT and the audio to the DSP(my 2013 chevy has no BT audio, only phone).

I have the basics working, but i am struggling to get a reasonable output from the DSP. When i use the aux in or a cd from my head unit to play a 1khz 0db tone, at max voltage i'm getting about 2V peak to peak (oscope), so not even 1V rms.. I am using the high level inputs from the factory head unit. DSP EQ's are all default, with channel volumes at 60 and overall volume at 60.

When i use the bluetooth of the DSP, i only get about half of that. using the same track on my galaxy s10+, or via aptx bluetooth from my laptop, with the device at max volume, i only get about 1V peak to peak on my oscope.

is there some criteria for getting a reasonable output voltage from the DSP? what am i missing? can you only get 3.5V from via the rca inputs?
 

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Do you have the switch on the side set properly? There is a switch for remote, speaker, rca. There are three settings if I remember correctly.
 

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So, I do have the switch set line li e level turn on, but my understanding is that that only controls the remote turn on. The qa on the PE site have people saying they use remote wire position for speaker level inputs as well.
 

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Try it. There is plenty of signal coming from the dsp. Turn the volume up to 66 on the main volume and roll from there.
 

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I have a dsp 408 on it way. So a couple questions....
1. What tones should I use for each of my components? Subs, active 3 way separates up front. (Where should I get clean tones from?)
2. What db for those tones (loud hard rock listener.)
3. Quick set of xover settings for a 3 way up front and a 2 way up front. I keep getting multiple suggestions on the net.
 
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