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The d4 needs a bigger box than the s4. No clue why but it just does. I will tell you this...my ho10d4 was the perfect sq sub until the truck started moving. Always thought going ported with this sub would do the trick by lowering the f3. As you probably know well getting LOW bass in a single cab truck can be a challenge which is why I'm going to switch to a smaller box sub and give it the ported box it needs. Actually Nasty, ygpm!
 

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Discussion Starter #22
The d4 needs a bigger box than the s4. No clue why but it just does. I will tell you this...my ho10d4 was the perfect sq sub until the truck started moving. Always thought going ported with this sub would do the trick by lowering the f3. As you probably know well getting LOW bass in a single cab truck can be a challenge which is why I'm going to switch to a smaller box sub and give it the ported box it needs. Actually Nasty, ygpm!
What is ygpm?

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Discussion Starter #24
I just noticed dayton has passive radiators as well. I am buying a dayton 10 from hillbilly. And im thinking adding a PR will help output a bit if its lacking

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Discussion Starter #25
I have a design in mind for 1 ported. But it might be easier to do 2 sealed. Only issue is with 2 sealed. Theyd be on lower power with 1 firing back and 1 firing down

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It would be a single 10 in a regular cab in the configuration below. 600 watts to the single sub. Parts express says .44 for an f3 of about 46 hz. So i think id go .6 cubes to bring that down some

This is an example of what im doing. In a regular cab. But sealed. Sub would be about 8" away from the rear wall


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My friend, that is a great looking center console. If I ever move to a pick up, which is likely on the next purchase. i would want something like that.
 

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Discussion Starter #27
Dayton driver specs usually are pretty spot on. You can play around with the nifty mobile app Speaker Box Lite. Just enter the parameters from the PE product page. I use it when I'm away from home and find it easy to use and accurate enough to be valid.

Man & Machine... Power Extreme!
Question for you I'm going to build a test box. You say you have yours in .35 cubes. Is that not of gross? If I have to add sub displacement with it I'll build one about .45 cubes. Just going to test it out in the truck before I waste the time to build one ported

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That spot would be perfect for an isobaric enclosure
 

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Explain please? It's been about 4 5 years since I've done anything audio

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JL audio has a really good white pages on the topic.
https://jlaudio.zendesk.com/hc/en-us/articles/204374170-Isobaric-Enclosure-Types

The main advantage is a smaller enclosure.
The biggest disadvantage is loss of efficiency and the fact that you have to buy two drivers.
Personally I would find a woofer that is optimal for your application versus going the isobaric route with two drivers.
 

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I took a Sundown SD3-10 which is a semi shallow subwoofer with an underhung coil designed for a small sealed box and put it in a .98 cu ft ported box tuned to 30.5 Hz and man let me tell you it sounds very good. Also, I have a regular cab truck too and this thing hits the lows very well. The ported box is a custom built slanted box that just fits behind the seats of my truck and takes up half the space back there. It’s not designed for this application but it works well and the 550 watt JBL mono amplifier is more than enough to fill the space with good solid clean lows.
 

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Discussion Starter #33
I took a Sundown SD3-10 which is a semi shallow subwoofer with an underhung coil designed for a small sealed box and put it in a .98 cu ft ported box tuned to 30.5 Hz and man let me tell you it sounds very good. Also, I have a regular cab truck too and this thing hits the lows very well. The ported box is a custom built slanted box that just fits behind the seats of my truck and takes up half the space back there. It’s not designed for this application but it works well and the 550 watt JBL mono amplifier is more than enough to fill the space with good solid clean lows.
I've used every single sundown sub made (I used to nothing but sundown for years) but in this case I want to try something different. If it comes down to it I will get an sd3 of wait for the sd4

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Discussion Starter #34
What would be the proper size aero port for this? Reason I ask is I'm going to build a few test boxes in different configurations
 

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What would be the proper size aero port for this? Reason I ask is I'm going to build a few test boxes in different configurations
Shall I assume by "aero port" you mean an off-the-shelf flared port?

If so, one of these should do the trick: https://www.parts-express.com/precision-port-3-flared-speaker-cabinet-port-tube-kit--268-350

One of these (4") would probably be ideal in terms of output potential (i.e. low vent compression): https://www.parts-express.com/precision-port-4-flared-speaker-cabinet-port-tube-kit--268-352#!
...but you'll be hard pressed to fit the 3" version in a suitably small box for this driver - in which case a slot port or external port would probably be best.

How large can you go? I could model it (RSS265HO-44, right?) for you later this evening.
 

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Discussion Starter #36
Shall I assume by "aero port" you mean an off-the-shelf flared port?



If so, one of these should do the trick: https://www.parts-express.com/precision-port-3-flared-speaker-cabinet-port-tube-kit--268-350



One of these (4") would probably be ideal in terms of output potential (i.e. low vent compression): https://www.parts-express.com/precision-port-4-flared-speaker-cabinet-port-tube-kit--268-352#!

...but you'll be hard pressed to fit the 3" version in a suitably small box for this driver - in which case a slot port or external port would probably be best.



How large can you go? I could model it (RSS265HO-44, right?) for you later this evening.
Yes please? It's the ho 10 dvc

A trusted guy who uses the sub told me 1.2 cubes 17" of port tuned to 30hz. But I want to maybe make it easier and use an aero since i haven't built a box in a few years. It's a funky configuration so I'd have to use PVC and bends. But the PVC I was going to hopefully use has a 3.5" ID

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Yes please? It's the ho 10 dvc

A trusted guy who uses the sub told me 1.2 cubes 17" of port tuned to 30hz. But I want to maybe make it easier and use an aero since i haven't built a box in a few years. It's a funky configuration so I'd have to use PVC and bends. But the PVC I was going to hopefully use has a 3.5" ID

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Okay, I'll get back to you with WinISD results later this evening.
 

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1.2 cubes, 30 Hz, 3.5” dia. X 21.5” vent, 500 W (for 13.1 mm of 13.25 mm Xmax), 40 m/s vent velocity, 27.3 Hz F3, 112.54 dB at 42.67 Hz.


40 m/s is a bit high and would likely produce audible chuffing without flared ends, but should be quiet with nicely flared ends.

By way of comparison, a 4” diameter (x 28.3”) vent would drop to 30.6 m/s. I don’t know whether or not that would be low enough to do without flared ends though (in terms of vent noise potential).

22 m/s seems to be the point at which port compression begins to be an issue (though WinISD does not seem to recognize/factor vent compression), reducing vent efficiency/output potential to that extent. Also, vent noise is not an issue at or near 22 m/s.

If you can fit it in the box, a 3.5 dia port with flared ends should be a good compromise.

Of course, a larger box would reduce vent length to that extent. I can variations if you like.

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Discussion Starter #39
I could increase the box size no problem. And I can pretty much use whatever size pvc I want. And I can make flared ends for them

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I could increase the box size no problem. And I can pretty much use whatever size pvc I want. And I can make flared ends for them

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Wow, got any other tricks up your sleeve? ;)

Seriously though... :)

...are you looking to maximize output?

...how large a box can you fit?
 
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