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Discussion Starter #41
Wow, got any other tricks up your sleeve? ;)



Seriously though... :)



...are you looking to maximize output?



...how large a box can you fit?
Musical (but keep in mind I do like my bass once in awhile. But I prefer musical

Also making a flared end on pvc is easy. Get a metal mixing bowl (old one the wife doesn't use) and a heat gun. Heat the edges of 1 side and slowly push the heated end of the pvc down on the bottom of the bowl until you get the flare you want

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Musical (but keep in mind I do like my bass once in awhile. But I prefer musical

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I'm not sure what that means.

Bear in mind that I'm not much more than a trained monkey when it comes to this stuff. I sort of know my way around WinISD, and can discuss some of its results in general terms; however, I'll be of little or no use to you in terms of interpreting or predicting how any particular alignment might sound.

For starters, do you think 112 dB should be more than enough, merely adequate, or possibly insufficient?

...and how large can we go? For example, would 2 cubes be too large?
 

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Discussion Starter #43
I'm not sure what that means.



Bear in mind that I'm not much more than a trained monkey when it comes to this stuff. I sort of know my way around WinISD, and can discuss some of its results in general terms; however, I'll be of little or no use to you in terms of interpreting or predicting how any particular alignment might sound.



For starters, do you think 112 dB should be more than enough, merely adequate, or possibly insufficient?
Probably not. I'm used to driving in a vehicle that's does 50s on music all day. I know this is totally different and I wont be anywhere close to that.

But I'm ok with that asking as the bandwidth is wide

I hope im explaining it right

I do also have 1 more sub I was going to try. Which is the dayton UM 10. With the VC configuration it would receive 800 watts. The ho 10 would be getting 600 watts

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Probably not. I'm used to driving in a vehicle that's does 50s on music all day. I know this is totally different and I wont be anywhere close to that.

But I'm ok with that asking as the bandwidth is wide

I hope im explaining it right

Sorry, I don't understand any of ^that^

I do also have 1 more sub I was going to try. Which is the dayton UM 10. With the VC configuration it would receive 800 watts. The ho 10 would be getting 600 watts

The UM seems better suited to sealed in a vehicle (maybe vented at home), but I could easily be wrong. Vented HO will outperform (SPL and extension) sealed UM.

According to WinISD results posted above, the HO will handle up to 500 watts in 1.2 cubes (based on Xmax).

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....
 

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Discussion Starter #45
I could most likely squeeze 2 cubes but some of the port would have to be external which is possible. About 8-10 inches of it
 

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I could most likely squeeze 2 cubes but some of the port would have to be external which is possible. About 8-10 inches of it
Bear in mind that at 2 cubes a 3.5" dia. port would be just 11.8" long (or just a bit longer than that for flared). This is the benefit of greater cabinet volume - that, and/or the option of increasing vent area without crazy length.
 

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Discussion Starter #47
I could most likely squeeze 2 cubes but some of the port would have to be external which is possible. About 8-10 inches of it
Bear in mind that at 2 cubes a 3.5" dia. port would be just 11.8" long (or just a bit longer than that for flared). This is the benefit of greater cabinet volume - that, and/or the option of increasing vent area without crazy length.
I could fit that easily. At that point I can even get a precision port with flared ends and go up to a 4" if that would make a difference. As long as I dont get any port noise.

But the port will be firing under the dash so i shouldn't hear it anyways
 

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I could fit that easily. At that point I can even get a precision port with flared ends and go up to a 4" if that would make a difference. As long as I dont get any port noise.

But the port will be firing under the dash so i shouldn't hear it anyways
According to Precision Ports calculator, 2 cubes, 30 Hz, 4" port would be 16.9" long. Power drops to 420 watts (excursion limited); vent velocity stays at 40 m/s (despite increased vent area, due to increased cabinet volume); peak SPL is slightly up to 113.3 dB, at 34 Hz (due to commensurately peakier response); F3 is 25.13 Hz.

You should have zero noise with ^this^ and a 4" precision Port.

Assuming you've got DSP or PEQ (to tailor response) this looks like a winner.
 

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Discussion Starter #49
This is going to be a pain in the ass. I also think making the box bigger will bring the qtc way up

I guess I just have to go buy a bunch of ply wood and start building test boxes
 

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It will limit the mechanical limitations of the sub. It's been a few years since I've done anything audio so bare with me

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Understood. However, it would just be a matter of setting the gains.

Bear in mind that at just one cube it's nearly 1 mm over Xmax at 600 watts
 

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Discussion Starter #56
Understood. However, it would just be a matter of setting the gains.



Bear in mind that at just one cube it's nearly 1 mm over Xmax at 600 watts
That would be fine. Making the box smaller will be easier because I'd have more room for the port to be external. I could eq it down

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1.5 cubes, 30 Hz, 3.5" x 17.6" (based on flared P.P.P. vent calculator), 470 W (at Xmax), 45 m/s (should be noise free with adequately flared vent), 112.74 dB at ~38 Hz, 26 Hz F3.

Looks like a winner.
 

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Discussion Starter #58
1.5 cubes, 30 Hz, 3.5" x 17.6" (based on flared P.P.P. vent calculator), 470 W (at Xmax), 45 m/s (should be noise free with adequately flared vent), 112.74 dB at ~38 Hz, 26 Hz F3.

Looks like a winner.
I'm going to try that this week.
 
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