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Discussion Starter #1
I remember a long time ago, Keep_Hope_Alive said this: "I love an active 3-way. Dayton Audio Reference 7" midbass, 4" midrange, 1.125" tweeter front stage, with 4" full/mid rear fill is the best performance for the money, IMO." I actually copied and pasted him to make sure I had the quote right.

Anyway, I do want to go active and I do want to run a 3 way system. Which model numbers of Dayton is he talking about? Do the Daytons get loud? Is there still anything out there that is still the best performance for the money? As far as DSP goes and I'm looking at JL or Dayton. I already have subwoofers, Boston G2 15"s. I actually have six of them but will only be using one or two for this build. Amps will probably be Rockford Fosgate just because I'm old school.

My goal is to put all of that in this Cadillac posted below once I get it painted and do air ride. I'm looking for thoughts, suggestions, or opinions...

Y'all let me know something.

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The aluminum RS180-4 has better specs for a door. From there you can opt for the paper version of the 4" RS100P-4 for less breakup.

Loud? That's subjective of course, but having ran a whole Dayton setup utilizing the RS75-4 instead, it got loud enough. The weak point is the softer suspension across the line except for the subs so you'll probably have to cross a little higher with a steep filter to help negate power compression. Great bang for the buck, but not block rockers.

Man & Machine... Power Extreme!
 

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The aluminum RS180-4 has better specs for a door. From there you can opt for the paper version of the 4" RS100P-4 for less breakup.

Loud? That's subjective of course, but having ran a whole Dayton setup utilizing the RS75-4 instead, it got loud enough. The weak point is the softer suspension across the line except for the subs so you'll probably have to cross a little higher with a steep filter to help negate power compression. Great bang for the buck, but not block rockers.

Man & Machine... Power Extreme!
The paper version does play higher, and is better for a 2-way, but the paper in the doors might be an issue down the road, and since his build is 3-way he won't need the midbass to play too high. I think you're first suggestion of the aluminum version is best.

I would use this tweeter:


I don't have any experience with their midrange drivers, but I'm sure they're just as good of a value as the rest of their speakers.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I think I'm liking the Daytons more and more. To clarify though, can the Daytons keep up with one or two 15"s?
 

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I think I'm liking the Daytons more and more. To clarify though, can the Daytons keep up with one or two 15"s?
"Keeping up" depends on how much power you throw at the 15's. If you want a balanced system with strong, but not obnoxious bass, yes they will "keep up". A speaker's sensitivity determines how loud it will get off of a single watt, so look at the sensitivity numbers to give you a good idea of the output you can expect.

I'm assuming that since you are using a DSP that sound quality is a primary goal, and most any speaker can provide more than enough output for enthusiastic listening.
 

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With my 6 channel amp and DSP, I'll be putting 350W each to the the 8's, 170W each to the 4's, and 170W each to the tweets. Wish me luck.
20190814_193745.jpg
 

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The paper version does play higher, and is better for a 2-way, but the paper in the doors might be an issue down the road, and since his build is 3-way he won't need the midbass to play too high. I think you're first suggestion of the aluminum version is best.

I would use this tweeter:


I don't have any experience with their midrange drivers, but I'm sure they're just as good of a value as the rest of their speakers.
I suggested the paper blend 4", not the paper 7". Unless he's doing custom work to put the 4" RS100P-4 in the doors, they shouldn't be a problem. That year Cadillac has dash locations for a 4". Mounting depth could be an issue though. A lot of old cars didn't have much room in the dash.

Man & Machine... Power Extreme!
 

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I suggested the paper blend 4", not the paper 7". Unless he's doing custom work to put the 4" RS100P-4 in the doors, they shouldn't be a problem. That year Cadillac has dash locations for a 4". Mounting depth could be an issue though. A lot of old cars didn't have much room in the dash.

Man & Machine... Power Extreme!
Gotcha, if they aren't in the doors, I'd go with the paper version. Even in the doors, it depends on where you live, I'm in Denver, it's bone dry here, and you could probably get away having the paper midbass in the doors. I put some in a buddies car, but never got to see how they held up over time. But, in a 3-way you wouldn't need the better high frequency response, so there'd be no reason to risk it.
 

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What year Cadillac is that ?

I have a killer system in a 92 Deville, which while a "late model" was one of the last of the classic shape sedans and has that vintage vibe.

(I'm running 5" Satoris in modified dash locations, Scan speak tweeters in the pillars, and Satori 9.5" in aperiodic boxes in the doors with an Acoustic Elegance 15" IB in the trunk wall).

As far as your original query, I will mention I"m running the "Dayton Audio ES180TiA-8 7" Esoteric Series Woofer 8 Ohm" from www.parts-express.com!
ES180TIA-esoteric series 7" woofer in my truck and it sounds really tight, but it works best in a small air space (Its also in a sealed door box).
Its also 8 ohm, so while it may not work for you I"m confident you'd be happy with Dayton audio drivers especially if you stick to their higher budget models.
 

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not at all, because i cant afford it does NOT mean its wrong lol. Lighten up.
I have a similar imbalance, £1300 head unit (P99RS) with amp, subs and components costing less than £300 combined! Apologies for prices in GBP.
Install, tuning and deadening is key, mine sounds pretty good for what it is
 

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Discussion Starter #16
I'm sorry I've been missing y'all. I was out of town this weekend. Anyway, so the speakers I should go with are the RS180-4, RS75-4 and, some Dayton tweeters (?). I'm trying to build my Cadillac as a low budget build. I'm trying to show people "you don't have to spend a lot to get a lot" sort of thing.
 

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I'll just pull a quote from a similar thread I responded to. One thing that you may take into consideration is how/where you plan to install your midrange and tweeter. That could affect the size, brand and model I would specifically recommend.

Looks like you've already received some good advice. If I were wanting to go three way in the LS, I would go with a 6.5"-7" midbass in the door and use a small format mid and tweeter built out from the sail panels in a vertical orientation. Many now call these "sail monitors."

Somthing like what you see below, on a smaller scale. Photo courtesy of Nick Adams and his 2012 GTI Build...


To do this, you will want to use include a DSP in your plans as well as enough amplification to have one channel per speaker. So, 6 channels for the 3-way up front plus whatever you want/need for a subwoofer. Keeping budget in mind, I would consider a pair of US Acoustic Lisas with one bridged for the midbasses and one powering the mids and tweeters. And then the Mike for the sub(s) of choice.

On a budget, my drivers of choice would probably be the following ($176)...
GR Research M-165X
Tectonic TEBM46C20N-4B
SB Acoustics SB14ST-C000-4

Alternately, I would consider these ($168-206)...
Dayton RS180-4
Fountek FR59EXE
Tymphany NE65W-04
Dayton ND16FA-6

And beyond the recommendations, I can provide you my reasoning. Both the M-165X and the RS180-4 have a reasonably high Qts and should perform well in a door IB install. They also have enough excursion to give you solid midbass output. Even though it is an 8 Ohm driver, I give the nod to the M-165X because it does have more excursion and the efficiency makes up for the higher resistance.

The three midrange drivers were selected because they are a few of the only "budget" drivers that work well in a TINY sealed enclosure you could build off of your sail panels. I modeled them in just 0.2l and they both kept Qtc in check and allowed for a fairly low crossover (300-500Hz depending on power/output). The TEBM46C20N-4B and FR59EXE are more efficient and have a lower Qtc in the small enclosure, so they are pretty even on that front. The TEBM driver is also a Balance Mode Radiator (BMR) which means the dispersion characteristics are pretty outstanding. So good in fact, that you could potentially pair it with your midbass and no tweeter for a "full range" 2-way configuration. That is one of the reasons it would be my choice over the Fountek. The Fountek is also a copy of a design by Audible Physics which also kept it from being my first choice.

For the tweeters, I was looking for something compact and inexpensive that still has decent performance. With any of the mids, you will not need a low crossover point. The overall size, flatter response and superior dispersion characteristics of the SB14ST-C000-4 are what made me choose it over the ND16FA-6. The ND16FA-6 might be simpler to mount though.

With the Tectonic and Tymphany mids as well as the Dayton tweeter, you'll probably want to make some sort of grill for the combination to help protect things and/or keep them hidden. If you elected to go with the Fountek mid and SB Acoustic tweeter, both have integrated grills so an additional grill would not be necessary. Though, the grill designs are different between the two.

Lastly, if you aren't up for building your sails out similar to the photo above, consider getting in touch with Geoff at Printed Acoustics. He can design and 3D print an enclosure for your specific needs. He also works at Parts Express, so he has access to many of the drivers listed above for quick reference.
Printed Acoustics

I almost forgot. I also recommend checking out ResoNix Sound Solutions for all of your sound treatment needs. Nick (Skizer) is the owner and he is a big contributor to this site and others. The products also appear to perform extremely well. Independent testing will be coming soon.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
I just saved this post to my favorites! Awesome!!! Alright so based on the comments here, I think I know what I want to go with. I'll do the M-165X, TEBM and SB Acoustics tweets. This is the combo to go with right? Will the combination work the same for the pillars? I planned on going custom. I just have one other question: How loud will it get?
 

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I just saved this post to my favorites! Awesome!!! Alright so based on the comments here, I think I know what I want to go with. I'll do the M-165X, TEBM and SB Acoustics tweets. This is the combo to go with right? Will the combination work the same for the pillars? I planned on going custom. I just have one other question: How loud will it get?
That is the combo I would choose for the scenario from the other post. If you're building A-pillars similar to the sail monitors I described in my post, yes, I do think they are a good choice on a budget. If you decide to build sealed kicks for the midbasses, I would probably switch over to the DIY Sound Group Anarchy 7". They will work better in a small sealed enclosure.

There are too many factors to say for sure how loud your system might get. In my opinion, the only answer you really need is "loud enough." But exactly how loud it gets depends on the rest of the equipment you use (namely amplifiers), how you configure your system (enclosures, crossovers, etc.) and how you measure your SPL (peak regardless of frequency, A-weighted, etc.).
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Well I'm thinking now of going with 3 of the Boston G2 15"s since I can fit them. When I say loud, I need something loud enough to keep up with three 15"s. Albeit these 15"s are not extremely powerful and more entry level, I want to use three because they have symmetry. I will probably do two of the US Acoustics Barbara Ann's and a Big Ben. For the price of one Rockford T2500 I could just about get all three amps and it would stay with the theme of being "budget". So when I say loud, I'm wondering could they keep up?
 
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