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Well I'm thinking now of going with 3 of the Boston G2 15"s since I can fit them. When I say loud, I need something loud enough to keep up with three 15"s. Albeit these 15"s are not extremely powerful and more entry level, I want to use three because they have symmetry. I will probably do two of the US Acoustics Barbara Ann's and a Big Ben. For the price of one Rockford T2500 I could just about get all three amps and it would stay with the theme of being "budget". So when I say loud, I'm wondering could they keep up?
I always wonder what people mean when they want their front stage to "keep up". If you push those 3 15's to their limits, your front stage would be so loud that you couldn't possibly stand it. This concept of people thinking they need to keep up with their subs is terribly flawed.
 

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Could they keep up? As much as anything else in a 6.5"-7" size as you'll be able to find. Arguably at any price, not just in budget drivers. Yes, they will be plenty loud.

As gijoe stated, you'll drive yourself out of the car sooner that the drivers will let you down. So long as you have them crossed over and tuned properly.
 

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Discussion Starter #23
I guess when I say keep up, sometimes on bass heavy songs, the 12"s that I do have over power my Focal 165 V30 component set. I would assume three 15"s of any variety could possibly put out a lot of bass and I want some components that could be heard when I jam it out but also keeping it on a budget. I'm not a bass head. I not a sound quality guy. I like my music loud and I like it to sound really good at the same time. I'm not sure what terminology to use or the relationship between mids/highs keeping up. I do know that when I turn up the volume I want it to get louder and sound dam good at the same time. I do know this, I don't want any pro audio stuff in my ride!
 

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Discussion Starter #24
Please explain to me what it means when you say the front stage keeping up with their subs is terribly flawed???
 

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Very simply put, subs should not take lead. They only need to fill out the bottom end to follow a common curve. There's no need in a SQ or even daily driver system to have subs that play at maximum output levels that far exceed the rest of the system. Therefore the rest of the system does not need to keep up.. the subs only need to blend in to make the sound realistic

Man & Machine... Power Extreme!
 

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Please explain to me what it means when you say the front stage keeping up with their subs is terribly flawed???
As I mentioned in my first post. The music will be too loud for the listener to want the front stage to keep up with 3 15's. The subs have way more SPL potential, and if you think you'll find a front stage that can keep up you need pro audio, and HLCD, and your ears won't be happy with you. Your front stage will get loud enough to hurt your ears, and the subs will go even louder. Trying for a front stage that will "keep up" is pointless because any decent front stage will already play louder than you'll want to listen to.
 

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Yep. The more I read, the more I thought "'pro audio' is where this guys needs to go." Skip all of the raw driver brands and get in contact with Eric Stevens at Stevens Audio. A pair of his MB6 or MB8 drivers and some horns and you'll be set.
 

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Discussion Starter #28
Oh no... NO PRO AUDIO!!! I was just thinking that with three 15"s the system can still sound good with a 3 way right? If the subs fill out the bottom end to follow a common curve I want the top end to be good too. I'm not sure if I'm saying the right things but if I put 500 watts on each sub (x3) for a total of 1500 watts, I need to be able to hear the mids and highs.
 

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First, Stevens Audio isn't the commonplace car audio version of "Pro Audio."

Second, the GR Research have the potential to easily reach over 115dB on a bridged Barbara Ann. That is LOUD.
 

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Oh no... NO PRO AUDIO!!! I was just thinking that with three 15"s the system can still sound good with a 3 way right? If the subs fill out the bottom end to follow a common curve I want the top end to be good too. I'm not sure if I'm saying the right things but if I put 500 watts on each sub (x3) for a total of 1500 watts, I need to be able to hear the mids and highs.
You're thinking backwards. The mains determine the needed level from the subs to follow the curve. Of course you can dial back the subs so that's achieved, but that's not being stated, nor is there a reason to have that many subs or power to do so with most gear that has been suggested. Just take note of the systems in some of the build logs and also (if noted) just how little sub output is demanded to attain a natural response.

If you want a block blaster, then most of the drivers suggested aren't going to do it... except pro audio

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Oh no... NO PRO AUDIO!!! I was just thinking that with three 15"s the system can still sound good with a 3 way right? If the subs fill out the bottom end to follow a common curve I want the top end to be good too. I'm not sure if I'm saying the right things but if I put 500 watts on each sub (x3) for a total of 1500 watts, I need to be able to hear the mids and highs.
Of course you can get it to sound good and follow a nice curve, that's not a problem.

What you won't be able to do is use max output from your subs while still maintaining that curve. Even if your subs are 10dB louder than the midbass, the midbass will already be too loud before you reach the sub's max.

If you want to max out those sub's output and still maintain your target curve, then you will need speakers designed for high SPL, and you won't be able to stand listening to them at those levels.

Make sense?
 

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Discussion Starter #32
I understand what y'all are saying...the system should be balanced. The top and bottom end should be equal. I was just thinking that with three 15"s you might need "more" from the mids and highs. No, I don't plan on blasting my music all day and no I'm not a basser. I bought the 15"s because they were on sale for about $50-$60 bucks a piece. I bought 6. My plan was to put them in a SUV but that a'int happened yet. I figure I might as well throw them in the Caddi and when I measured, three will fit. So I figured why not! I guess I want three 15"s because they not only look impressive, but they should hit. The reason why I don't want pro-audio speakers is because they get stupid loud and not necessarily sound good. Can't you have multiple subs in a SQ(L) system?
 

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Sure you can have multiple subs, but shouldn't it only be enough to reach the desired target output without excessive distortion when nearing the limits? In all honesty , two would probably be more than enough for a daily driver. In a SQ system... one could be enough. I think the issue is you bought more than you actually need albeit the sale price was too tempting, but now you feel the need to use as many as can fit to justify the purchase which is probably audibly impractical.

Perhaps you can sell a set to fund something of more importance, or store them for backup in the chance of damaging one in use?

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I understand what y'all are saying...the system should be balanced. The top and bottom end should be equal. I was just thinking that with three 15"s you might need "more" from the mids and highs. No, I don't plan on blasting my music all day and no I'm not a basser. I bought the 15"s because they were on sale for about $50-$60 bucks a piece. I bought 6. My plan was to put them in a SUV but that a'int happened yet. I figure I might as well throw them in the Caddi and when I measured, three will fit. So I figured why not! I guess I want three 15"s because they not only look impressive, but they should hit. The reason why I don't want pro-audio speakers is because they get stupid loud and not necessarily sound good. Can't you have multiple subs in a SQ(L) system?
I think you're still missing the point, maybe I'm doing a poor job communicating.

You can absolutely have multiple subs in a system focused on sound quality, but don't expect to use all of the output that the subs are capable of and still retain balance. The subs will the potential to get much louder than the rest of the speakers, if you use them to their potential, the rest of the speakers probably will not be able to "keep up", but the point is they don't have to. They will already get loud enough to hurt your ears, why would you want them to do more than that?
 

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Discussion Starter #35
Y'all aren't doing a poor job communicating. Yes I do have six subs and a need to do something with them. I don't think I will do less than three. I don't have to have them turned up as they could overpower the rest of the system. My thoughts that if three 15"s are played normally in unison, I didn't want them drowning out the rest of the sound. Nor do i want them turned down so low, there wouldn't be a point in having three. But y'all haven't lost me nor are y'all talking over my head. I'm the one doing a poor job communicating. What it be better if said if you have three 15"s would components would y'all choose?
 

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. Still, I think we're going in circles here. It doesn't matter how many subs you have.. you're going to find that you'll just be keeping them dialed back to achieve the target curve. So that being said, stop stressing over output and find something that fits where you need and mates to each other in response.

Budget and mounting constraints would determine what I'd go for with Dayton always being my first choice if funds are severely limited. Willing to spend a bit more would just be to include drivers of somewhat higher quality. Start there.... size, mounting depth limitations, and needed bandwidth.




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Discussion Starter #37
I sorry if this conversation went in circles. That's not what I was trying to do. Understand I'm still learning about car audio. Reason why I wanted it to be a budget build is because I didn't spend a lot on the subs so I thought that maybe I could get a front stage that's affordable too. And I wanted to show others you don't have to spend a lot to get a lot. I wasn't opposed to getting JL C5's, JL C7's, Audiofrogs, Morel, but I know I can do just as good for much much cheaper without being cheap.
 
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