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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
I received My 10"HO yesterday just as the test enclosure was completed. The enclosure is .673CuFe Including bracing but not including basket/cone displacement. I roughly estimated that I would have 2/3 CuFu to play with in a fiberglass enclosure later down the road. Its cold out now so opening the garage door and whipping up glass is out of the question. I needed tunes and wanted to see how the driver would sound in those confines.

Here's some pics of the enclosure both finished and unfinished. The bottle in the last pic is to give a size approximation and to convey my favorite nightcap :) I really need to get a circle jig for my router as you can see, but it's a test box right?







Now for the driver:

I have held some substantial drivers before, some costing upwards of a thousand bucks. I must admit that for $100 that this is the best bang for the buck. There is great attention to detail and no rubber boot or other cosmetic ********, just a no frills driver. The rubber surround is thick, the cone is stiff and the construction is quite solid. Here are some pics of the driver.






And mounted up ready to go. Prior to mounting the enclosure was stuffed with just a tad less than 1Lb of polyfill. (sorry no pics of the white stuffing :) ) Again, lets keep any comments about my inadequacies of cutting a perfectly round hole to ourselves :)







So it went inside to the studio, I have no amp yet for the car, it's on the way, I may try it in the truck though this weekend if weather permits.

The unit is comparison is really "no comparison". My studio sub is an Electrovoice EVX180B in an Uber HUGE TL enclosure, it's very efficient and can handle anything I care to throw at from current available from a standard 20A AC wall outlet. It's X max is pretty close to that of the 10" Dayton so I have lots more air moving with it. Powering the low end is a bridged carver PM350 supplying 1KW into an 8 ohm load. I would suspect not much more into a 4 Ohm load due to commutator loss on the Carver design. The top end is powered with a Crown DC300A and consists of a pair of Urei 809A's. Crossover is Modified Rane AC22B (modified for a /2 crossover freq, and quieter op amps.)

I parked the Dayton next to the blehemoth, and turned to tops all the way off to listen for air leaks. I did a damn good job, the cab did not whisper at all. During big excursion I noticed NO foul noises from the driver and it did a good job rattling everything in the house. With music it was tight and accurate, it mated up nicely with the Urei's but I had to raise the XO a tad due to it's comparison's sensitivity in the upper bass. I also had to obviously turn the tops down too, by quite a lot to make up for the efficiency difference. The enclosure had great low end extension for it's size and I would not hesitate downsizing to a pair of these and a lot more power for the studio app. Main problem wiht the small enclosure is overall efficiency it took an incredible amount of umph to get it to roll, as in, the EV would be making you sick. But in retrospect I built it for the car and I expect it to do much better there. There is absolutely NO room gain in the studio as it is in the loft of a log home and there are also no parallel surfaces.

I'll post more about in-car results soon.

So the 10" strengths:

1. Ability to handle uber power with stride
2. Engineering in build
3. Build quality (materials and assembly)
4. Ability to operate in a small enclosure and still kick it out in a big room.

Weaknesses:

1. Bigger frame than most 10" drivers. The grille I ordered would not fit.
2. 6 mounting holes instead of 8. WTF? Tougher retrofit, again have to modify any grille kit to fit.
3. NO DOCUMENTATION, the box had a driver and packing in it, nothing for my reference later or for the "reference notebook" Never seen this before? No parameter/dimension sheet included. The cutout diameter supplied in the catalog was too big, it barely made it (see photo's coming up) it will fit in a hole about 1/4" smaller if not more. Absolutely no engineering drawings or specs. A MUST for DIY work!

Now for the one and only bloodshed. I decided to cut the remainder of the t-nuts off because (I felt) the mounting hole was too big and did not like the nuts sticking out (who likes their nuts sticking out) so I had a 3" Pneumatic cutoff wheel and was on the last one when it bucked. My finger was in the way :( FYI skin does not spark like metal when it's being cut :) the pics do not convey the depth of the wound well, it actually did not bleed much due to the cauterization effect of the wheel, but the missing skin swath is a pain in the ass. It still thumps a little if I use it too much :)




AND while on a rant, when the -F- did T-nuts become sooo expensive? $3.59 for a 2 pack at Lowe's? Christ on a V-Rod! I'll buy elsewhere in bulk on the next project :) Maybe a T-Nut group buy! Too bad I bought 8 assuming the driver had either 4 or 8 holes like every other driver out there :)


Chad
 

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cool... but i thought the HO liked smaller boxes. thats about the size for a 10HF
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Yep, I can always make it smaller with wood scraps, they are a bit of a ***** to make larger :) It's a test box to see how small I can go with glass. I drive an 04 Civic Si, I need hatch space, glass will be into the spare area and floor built up (with spare still in it) or if amp does not fit under seat the amp will be in a false floor and the sub in a wheel well.

Chad
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
BTW the glue that was used is Polyester glue on the box. I WILL use it again, good sticky stuff, it expands like spray foam to seal and will stick ANYTHING, including your hands, wear gloves or wear it for 3 days! After it dries just trim off with a blade and sand. There are 3 1.5" screws per joint countersunk and bondo'ed over, (not enough clamps or work time at "Casa De Chad"

Silica sand from a pool filter/ashtray will help remove it from your hands, but it's rough stuff.

Chad
 

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probond?
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Like probond, Gorilla grip (glue?) is another name. If you live in a dry climate they recommend spraying the wood down with a sprtitz of water and quickliy wiping. The adhesive uses weater in the wood/air as the "catylist" Elmer's makes some too... dammit hold on, I'll run out and look.......

Herre we go...

Titebond:
Polyurethane:
Liquid Glue:

4 Oz bottle was cheap and I used exactly half on that project, wasted a bunch on my hands too :) Way better than the standard wood glue on the project 2 weeks before.

There ain't one ounce of caulk or silicone in that cab and after punishment again tonight (I got it to distort, different amp) the cab is happy. Listening to it now, power hungry but very smooth.

Chad
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Well, I have had the Dayton in tha car now for 1 week and am ready to share some opinions. First off it's not a SPL sub if you want to use a conservative amount of power. I initially was concerned with it's output but now have decided that I love it! It is running off the high power channel of a Next VRz5.500. It is a very smooth, high fidelity sub. Although it is now mated to the stock speakers it blends nicely.

My first words to describe it is "dry" and "Effortless" It does not have that bumpy "car sub" sound. For example a kick drum has a wonderful initial attack, you can feel the batter hit the head and it GONE! Very uber cool to me! If the kick is ringy it does not over do the ring. Hip-hop is neat, if you are a musician you can damn near tell what synth or process they are using to make the drone. Lower bass guitar is clean and again effortless, the sustain in no way gets in the way of the pluck, you can hear great definition. In fact I may try the sub full range soon in the studio on an upright bass just to hear it :)

Just a quick note. I'll post again when it gets mated up to some real speakers!

Chad
 

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How much power is the sub seeing again?
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
240W from the 5th Channel of a Next VRz5.500. I have not benched this amp to see if it's really doing that though. Manual says it does. BTW my pics of the inside is at the Ampguts website.

Chad
 

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If someone is wanting more BOOM factor, the 12" would be a nice step up from the 10"...
 

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btw...you do know that the wood you used is not mdf but pressed particle board right? Sometimes that will yield some nasty vibrations...
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
AzGrower said:
btw...you do know that the wood you used is not mdf but pressed particle board right? Sometimes that will yield some nasty vibrations...
Yeah, it's a temp situation, did not vibrate with 1KW of power going into it :)

Sometimes my fingers race to type MDF, we should all get into the habbit of seeing PFB :)

Chad
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
AzGrower said:
If someone is wanting more BOOM factor, the 12" would be a nice step up from the 10"...

The car is quite small, and I feel that I could not accomodate the 12" in my plans of a stealthy install. The cab would be so small I think my gains with a larger driver would be wasted in lack of Cubic feet. The 10" does fine for me, you can feel it quite well, I get boom every weekend playing Rokstar with a big PA and a DBX 120XP among other goodies :) I need to retain nearly the entire hatch (for the goodies) and it's quite a squeeze! My CA18's will arrive today! Na Na NA Na :) I'll let you know my impression on them and the Morel's. Got a lot of work to do! Have a great weekend AZ!
 

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Hey Chad, by the way you need a router and a circle jig. :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
YES! I have a router and plan on buying a jig from PE.. Mine is not a plunge router though, that gets a little tricky but works. I lost my home brew Jig in the divorce/move. That's what you get when non-crafty friends help you pack :)

Got one for sale? I was going to go the harbor freight route, they have a couple in there for the right price for as often (not) as I use a plunge router.

Chad
 

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chad said:
Got one for sale? I was going to go the harbor freight route, they have a couple in there for the right price for as often (not) as I use a plunge router.

Chad
I like the Skil Plunge/Standard base combo...only $105 from amazon.com and the shipping is free. Its strong enough to handle anything you need it to, 2.25 HP, 11 amps. I made my own jig from plexiglass. Here is a link to the Skil router...
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...4957-8887351?_encoding=UTF8&v=glance&n=228013

Or they also offer a refurbed one, with the same warranty for only $78.77 (thats the one I bought)
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
I'm ALWAYS hip to a refurb, sometimes trust them more. Thanks for the link!!!

Got the package today. Morels are in the pods after MUCHO tweeter flange grinding. And DAMN those CA18's are deep! Getting spooked. Home with a sick kid today so it all worked out. Pulling the car in now after a break to see if I can squeeze them in :)

I made my circle jug out of old metal parts and some metal dowel. Not graduated but infinitely variable :)

Chad
 
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