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Courtesy of Mark Nickel.

Hi guys. I experienced and learned a little with removing the bucking magnet on the new Dayton reference line. This is a guide on what to and what not to do.


Stage 1- first try (More work, "what not to do")
For the first driver i made it harder than it had to be.
I thought the black shield would have been glued on quite alot. I taped a line around the top part of the shield, then protected the speaker with a towel and duct tape. Then i cut off the top part of the shield with a grinder. The piece then sucked right to the magnet. Took me a while to get it off. But what also happend is the glue broke loose at the top where it meets the basket. The entire shield then came off.
Here are some pics of what happened for the first one.

Speaker Before:


Taped edge:


Cutting the shield:



Stage 1 second try: Easy as pie
Okay, so after cutting the first one, i found the glue on the shield is not that strong at all. Give the shield several wacks with the hammer. Suggested hammering places: Directly on the bottom going down, from the side close to the bottom. Basically all around trying to break the glue loose.

Hit here:


So after a few wacks in the right place you'll notice the glue break loose a bit, then simply give the shield a couple tugs, maybe stick something in the hole and pry a bit, but nothing that will break the thing.
I got it off in about 30 seconds after hammering for a minute or so...and not full out hammering that will wreck anything.
heres the pics from this stage:




Stage 2:
do not cut the magnet at all...nothing will cut it... fairly hard.
All that is required is a bigish chissle and a hammer.
Hit like this: place the metal base on an edge, not the magnet as you don't want the chip the motor magnet. Place chissle at base of bucking magnet.



It looks like the thing is glued down like a mother, but the glue only goes on the edge. Give it a few SOLID wacks and it should break off no problem.
here's picks of the end result:

First speaker:

(note: i tried cutting what whatnot first, probably why it didnt' all come off in one piece. I'm sure this last bit would come off no problem)

Second speaker:

Beautiful

Now all that's left is to take the sticker off the shield and put it on the magnet...don't forget to black out the S which stands for shielding


And here's some more pics of new unshielded Dayton Ref:



BTW, the new dimensions are as follows:

Depth: 2 7/8" to the bottom of the flange
Width at base: 3 7/8"

That makes this thing much easier to fit in most cars...a lot smaller than my CSS drivers (Basket/Motor same as a koda)

Hope this helps some of you.
 

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I have an easier trick to offer: use your stove.

Wrap the basket in aluminum foil. Place the driver's back side on an electric stove (Ceran, plain steel or induction should work fine). Apply full power (setting 9, usually) for maybe half a minute. Turn down to maybe 5 (on my stove, this means the heater is time modulated, going fully on for a few seconds every half minute). Let it sit for about 2 minutes (enough for the heat to travel to the glue joint but not to the spider).

But lower side of bucking cup in vise and pull on basket. If it does not come off, let cool completely and then use longer heating time (5 min?). The bucking magnet can be removed as whole in the same way.

I did this on an Audax AM170G8, and as I had heated for about 10 min., the bucking magnet came off without reheating. Looking at your pics, the Dayton seems to use even less glue, and probably Epoxy or even PVA based glue.


I have even used this technique to successfully remove the back plate including phase plug (on a Peerless HDS) without damaging the VC.

The temperature can be "adjusted" by the soak time on the heater. Most European drivers manufactured until the late 90s use PU or CA glue which needs about 200°C and is a bit smelly. Newer drivers use Epoxy or even water based stuff, which softens below. Chinese and Taiwanese drivers still use nasty stuff, so I am surprised the Dayton seems to use more harmless glues.
 

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I debucked some 125's last night. I don't see how it could get much easier. The only issue I had was that one of the magnets sheered where the glue was. It left a sliver of magnet, similar to what is seen in the "sticker" pic above. But after a few hits with the chisel, it was gone as well. Thx for the pics! :)
 

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what is the intended purpose of the magnet that is being removed? what changes does this have to the performance of the driver being modified?

I know that with neodymium heat kills the magnet strength, does it apply to these mags as well
 
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Um,

forgive me for the dumb question, but why is it rear vented - with a phase plug? Or is that an access hole for the (screwed in) plug? Is there ventilation under the spider that I just can't see? Should I just buy one and shut the hell up :rolleyes: ?


cheers,

AJ :)
 

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- Heat: you will demagnetize most ferrites only above 400°C, which is why you shouldn't leave your driver on the stove for more than a couple of minutes.

- Venting: the spiders are unvented

- Hole: Maybe they use the same iron parts for a different driver that has a dustcap?
 

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Adding a bucking magnet will usually increase the Bxl by about 1-5%. Adding the cup will return it nearly to its original value. So removing both shouldn't make much of a difference.
 

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im about to try this tonight

when taking the magnet off (with the chisel)

how do you brace the rest of the driver? and also what are the WHAT NOT TO DO's so the cone or coil is not shifted

something about wacking my driver has me concerned lol as I read somewhere that the glue is tronger??
 

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If I may bring some details to everyones attention...

i have debucked an RS125, RS150 & RS180. In the process I have learned that the glue is only applied to the bottom of the magnets, so...

In this picture...


It tells you to hit the shield near the top of the basket... This I believe could be the cause of the fatalities reported (just a guess).

I have had great success just hitting the bottom side\edge of the shield (with a plastic mallet) all the way around until it breaks the bond of the glue. You'll know because it will be an audible difference.

Good Luck ;)
 

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lol, I just came here to post the exact same thing. I just use 3-4 firm hits with a ball pein hammer. And just so people realize, the cup stays on due to the magnet, so don't keep hammering away expecting it to pop off.

Also, I've had a lot more success getting the magnet to pop by having the speaker on an approx 60 degree angle, and the chisle verticle. I also have someone else hold the speaker while I hammer the chisle.

And wear safety glasses. The magnets like to sheer, and due to the magnetic forces the shrapnel flies off in funky directions. I had a friend holding the 8" and half the magnet sheered and flew UP into his forehead. It's very sharp, and gave him a pretty good cut.

Edit:
Be sure to support the driver by the back plate. If the lip on the frame, or the magnet, is taking the load you have a much higher chance of shifting the assembly.
 

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wow much easier than I thought took five minutes lol

I was all scared

only thing different I did was hit the cover right at the botton edges all around the cirle with a hammer, then took a screw driver inside the hole to wedge it out and it came right off--you have to pull a bit as the lower magnet holds it down a little

as far as the lower magnet , took a masonry chisel 3/4"--wide mouth but very sharp edge--wedged it in one spotat a 40 degree angle hit it maybe three times, and the entire magnet came off in one peice

maybe they are using less glue after all

THX GUYS FOR TH HEADS UP!!!
 

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yeah im sticking with the 8" for now, dayton tweets in the pillars

Will see how it works out--I knwo one thing they sound nice off the hoem receiver, the black cone look way better in person IMO

suprised they are so cheap, they be running off 250w as I have a 8 ohm to 4 ohm veritas accumatch transformer I picked up

not sure how they chage the actual dynamics of the sound (the transformers), but figured I could at least try them
 

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i just had to reply to this.

i tried hammering my dayton 7" to the point where the shield was looking mangled. i tried a rubber hammer all the way to a 48 oz sledge! nothing would break the glue.

so it tried twice to heat the driver with no success UNTIL!

I tried doing what he said exactly: heat for 30 seconds at a time full setting. i tried 8 minutes. and stuck it in the vice HARD.... it popped off easy as pie!


thanks to whoever suggested it. couldnt be happier.
 

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id also like to mention that i used a regular stove and the second one took almost 13 minutes to soften the glue.

it was much easier and safer on the speaker then hammering it. plus if you do it quick enough it helps in removing the bottom magnet too!
 
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