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Yep, I used the heating method last night to get the back cover off my 180's too. Still haven't got the bottom magnet off yet, but the cover plate came of surprisingly easy this way. Magnets will be tomorrow night's project.

-Ben
 

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i just debucked 4 of them. from reading this thread i thought it would be a lot easier. i couldn't get the cups off by just hammering. i heated it up on medium heat for about 5 minutes and then i banged the cup with a hammer to break the glue. i did the same for the magnet, but since i don't have a vice or a chisel it was a bit messier than it could have been. looking back at the project it was pretty easy, but at the time i didn't think i was going to be able to do it. all turned out well tho. these speakers look great.
thanks for all the ideas.

rob
 

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This was going to be the fourth Dayton that I have debucked and then the entire backplate and voicecoil came off. I heated it up on the stove as I did the other three and hit if with a hammer in the direction it comes off. The glue is very firm and the same glue holds all the componenets together, magnet, backing plate, bucking magnet, shield. I'll try again on a fifth Dayton.
 

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WOW

first of man there is no glue that high (looking at your hammer contact points from the pic)

all you need to do it hit all around the bottom EDGE of the metal backing (make a circle with your hammer) and it will pull off by hand

turn it over in your hand so your looking at the bottom, and then just tape the edge in a circle

guess you cant return that one huh WOW

seems like theheating method is not the best idea???

cant believe the entire voice coil came out too?
 

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After debucking one of my daytons the cone was froze. a close look showed the phase plug off center pressed into the voice coil jamming it in place. today I tried beating on it with a dead blow to knock it back on center. It worked (without too much force either I must add), it was hard to get it just right, but eventually I got it and the driver sounds fine.

Its kind of distressing how easily the motor moves around, but don't toss your daytons if the same thing happens to you!

-Jeff
 

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I used a big screw driver and a sledge. I chipped a little off the main magnet too, but I doubt it has any real effect as long as its not a big chunk. I think removing all the shielding magnet is impossible, its glued on there way too strong - I sheared most of it off and it cleared the glass, so I left it at that...
 

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zalgoh said:
This was going to be the fourth Dayton that I have debucked and then the entire backplate and voicecoil came off. I heated it up on the stove as I did the other three and hit if with a hammer in the direction it comes off. The glue is very firm and the same glue holds all the componenets together, magnet, backing plate, bucking magnet, shield. I'll try again on a fifth Dayton.

Yes, if you heat for too long, the heat travels up and softens the other glue joints, too. Also, as somebody pointed out, hitting the shield too far up will exert a torque force that stresses the motor more than the shield.

The copper thing you see is not the voice coil but the lower shorting ring. It sits inside the VC on the stem of the pole piece in Scan Speak and Excel drivers, and on the outside of the VC in Peerless drivers.

Can you post some more pictures of the pole piece itself? It love to see if it is undercut or not.

Regards,

Eric
 

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I don't thing heating it up is a good idea.... I had the stove on medium and timed it for like 3 mins. Sure the shield come off easy but the it also heats up the motor housing causing it to shift freezing your cone. I manged to shift it back into place and get the cone moving again but it looks like crap and I think iot will effect performance too. I think the best way is to pound the crap out of the shield...Be very careful just to hit the edges on the bottom. HEating might work for some people but I thing hammering is the way to go. As for the fist pic on this thread with the arrows, follow the bottom arrows only. Hitting it at the top will or in the middle will pinch the housing to the magnet...thats a bad idea. Hit it with a downward motion and you really have to hit...don't be afraid. I messed one of mine up by heating it so I practiced on it and I found out that if you follow what I said you should be alright. Just wanted to post this so I could help any new guys out. Now I have to order another dayton and I get raped on shipping cause I am in Hawaii. GOOD LUCK
 

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well it tryed the hammering methed and my hole fu$%%$# magnet broke lose with the shield still atatched :mad: i dont know what happend i was hitting it on the very bottom and on the bottom of the sides :confused: and it still shifted now i can shift the hole thing just with my hand :mad: you can see were i was hitting it in the pics
 

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well i got the back plate free from the shield, and stuck it back on but i cant get it centered, theres no way. you give it alittle tap to one side and it just shifts and sticks on that other side :mad: . im thinking glue, glue the back plate back on wait till it gets super tacky and then try and center it, do you guys think that will work? if that will work what kind of glue should i use?
 

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I had a similar problem, you could try this:

Lay the mid backplate-down on a table. Use a screwdriver and hammer and slightly tap the backplate where needed to get it centered. I found it easiest when i could look at the pole-piece as reference. It takes some time, but you'll get it. It will hold its position at rest.

I ran a bead of gorrilla glue around the edge of the backplate, and i expect that to hold well enough. I have not had the drivers in-car yet, but the cone moves freely and i noticed no problems after a brief check free-air off the home stereo.

Keep us updated on your progress.
 

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ok i dont know how you guys are doing this but my 2nd one is f'ed up now [email protected]##[email protected]@$!. and i wasent even hitting the sides!!!, it got screewed up just from hitting the bottom!! :mad:. its like the mother fu#$*)@ backplate isent even glued on i can take it and move it around by hand :confused: wtf. theres 60+ buxes down the drain it may not seam bad but im a fuc#&@! poor ass and now im stuck with to shot speakers [email protected]#[email protected]!#@#[email protected] :mad: :mad: !!
 

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Yeah, I killed one too (the only one I tried to debuck). So it isn't as easy as everyone makes it out to be. An autopsy showed that the bottom is glued like crazy now, so maybe dayton QC caught up with the fact that the shields were too easy to get off and forced usher or whoever makes the drivers to start gluing them more to spec? There was definitely a lot more glue between the shield and the bucking magnet than there was between the frame and the magnet.

I'm really not that impressed with the overall build quality of the drivers either- they sound great, as long as they are crossed really low, but really have that "cut corners for cost" feel to them. Maybe I'm just not used to metal coned drivers but I expected more from all the rave reviews.
 
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