Dayton reference debucking guide
41 - 60 of 78 Posts
Joined
·
1,389 Posts
I bought 4 RS180's for my HT and a pair of rs270's to try as midbass in my bronco.
Anyway I didn't say they look like crap. I actually really like the way they look, once mounted, especially the 270's, and double especially for the price. Although the anodized cone is not dyed as deeply black as i would have hoped. They just aren't as sturdily built as I expected, given the reviews. I am disappointed by how easily the cone deforms, by the globs of glue in strange places on the back of the cone and the poor quality of the glue used, by the way the voice coil is attached (apparently glued) to the cone with a ~1/8" overlap, and by the way the magnet was attached to the frame with glue + 4 cast iron pins. These pins are clearly inadequate and seem to be what are failing in shear when people hit the speakers with a hammer or in my case drop them, causing the voice coil misalignments.
Anyway I didn't say they look like crap. I actually really like the way they look, once mounted, especially the 270's, and double especially for the price. Although the anodized cone is not dyed as deeply black as i would have hoped. They just aren't as sturdily built as I expected, given the reviews. I am disappointed by how easily the cone deforms, by the globs of glue in strange places on the back of the cone and the poor quality of the glue used, by the way the voice coil is attached (apparently glued) to the cone with a ~1/8" overlap, and by the way the magnet was attached to the frame with glue + 4 cast iron pins. These pins are clearly inadequate and seem to be what are failing in shear when people hit the speakers with a hammer or in my case drop them, causing the voice coil misalignments.
Joined
·
1,389 Posts
Yeah, I've had a long day too... I can tell that crankiness is getting the best of me. I'm going to modify the "strange places" comment because upon closer inspection it is actually on the inside of the voice coil former/cone attach point which is a reasonable place for glue to be. however it is still very unevenly applied. I couldn't get a picture of it to come out but there is ~1" where there is no glue and then glue the rest of the way around in a thin strip that is 100% on the voice coil former in some places, 100% on the cone in others, and in some places actually gluing the two together.
Here are some pictures of what I meant by "different amounts of glue on the shield/magnet compared to what was earlier posted". It is very heavily gooped on the shield/bucking magnet attachment point, and very thinly and unevenly applied to the frame/motor magnet. You can also clearly see the holes for the alignment pins i was talking about- if they had used brass or steel bolts through the magnet into these, they would be much more effective than glue alone.
Here are some pictures of what I meant by "different amounts of glue on the shield/magnet compared to what was earlier posted". It is very heavily gooped on the shield/bucking magnet attachment point, and very thinly and unevenly applied to the frame/motor magnet. You can also clearly see the holes for the alignment pins i was talking about- if they had used brass or steel bolts through the magnet into these, they would be much more effective than glue alone.
Attachments
Joined
·
1,389 Posts
I don't mean to diss dayton or parts express or these drivers- I spend more money at parts express each month than I do on food, and I really do think they are some of the best values out there for the money and some fine speakers regardless of cost. If you search here and ECA I was one of, if not THE, first people to recommend them and their cousins, and still do very highly. I just don't recommend you hit them witha hammer, drop them, or touch the cones with long fingernails.
The main point of this whole thing was to try to explain why some people have problems getting the bucking magnets and shields to come off of the drivers...
The main point of this whole thing was to try to explain why some people have problems getting the bucking magnets and shields to come off of the drivers...
Joined
·
176 Posts
well i got one of them fixed and it plays. but one doesent work any more 
its not locked up the cone moves freely with out rubbing, but i think i might of messed the voice coil up from having the back plate off and on .
its not locked up the cone moves freely with out rubbing, but i think i might of messed the voice coil up from having the back plate off and on .Yeah I just installed the 7 inch daytons and the one I messed up on is the one that works. The other dayton which the sheild came off quite easy does not work(has to be the voice coil...no resistance). Go figure. I had to order 3 more of the drivers just incase I mess up again and you know what....I live in hawaii and that free shipping crap don't apply here. I get them monday and paid 45 dollars for shipping...BAh Right now I get 2 rs tweets up front and 1 dayton on the left door. I don't know if you have to break these speakers in but they sound alright I guess. I got the Rs280 tweets and 7 inch rs. What are you guys crossing at...got mine at 1.8 k was thinking of going lower but I am scared.
I wrote the original guide for these things. Nothing you couldn't really figure out yourself, but i guess it was requested.
ANyways, I have a set of 8" on the way, so i'll let you guys know if construction has changed. I'm a little nervous i'll break one now that i've seen the horror stories.
I may have to cut the shield off instead of beat it off. Later guys.
ANyways, I have a set of 8" on the way, so i'll let you guys know if construction has changed. I'm a little nervous i'll break one now that i've seen the horror stories.
I may have to cut the shield off instead of beat it off. Later guys.
Joined
·
40 Posts
Have any of you tried debucking the rs-125 5"?
I've debucked all of them. The 7" is the only one to give me issues. The rest went easily. I've debucked 11 of the 7" now, and had 3 failures. All of those that failed had a lot of excess glue holding the bucking magnet on. Now I just cut off the excess and havn't had any issues.
Well i destroyed one of my RS225's.
I think a lot of care must be taken when applying a force or hitting in any direction.
With the 8", the magnet is larger than the metal part of the basket, soooo, i attempted to just hit the magnet with the magnet resting on the table. the first one worked nicely and the magnet cracked in half and fell off. With the second, it came off but the other magnet came loose.
Not too sure what i could have done differently. Perhaps put a small block in between bucking and motor magnet so it presses against the metal frame. Then hit just the magnet.
WEll there's my input.
I think a lot of care must be taken when applying a force or hitting in any direction.
With the 8", the magnet is larger than the metal part of the basket, soooo, i attempted to just hit the magnet with the magnet resting on the table. the first one worked nicely and the magnet cracked in half and fell off. With the second, it came off but the other magnet came loose.
Not too sure what i could have done differently. Perhaps put a small block in between bucking and motor magnet so it presses against the metal frame. Then hit just the magnet.
WEll there's my input.
Joined
·
2,346 Posts
i guess we won't need this sticky anymore .
.
G
Guest
·hey doods sorry to resurrect an old thread, especially since the debucking need has largely been eliminated
... but alas, not completely eliminated Let's say someone is interested in the little 125mm (5 inch) driver, but has limited mounting room behind. Seems like the "hammer" method has been covered, as well as the "heat" method.
Let's discuss the "glue dissolving" method Here's my thought : pour some kind of glue dissolver (acetone, paint thinner, ??) into a pan, maybe 1" deep. The depth is critical, because you want it reach the glue joint to be disolved ... but no higher. Then put the driver, cup and all, into the pan. I'm thinking that the dissolver won't be high enough to reach the top of the cup's outer perimeter, of course, but might just be able to seep into the joint through that hole in the bottom Know what I mean?
What do you think? Any hope? If it works, it promises to be the most "gentle" technique, least likely to cause any unwanted harm. Any clue what type of dissolver would be best suited to the type of glue used?
... but alas, not completely eliminated
Let's say someone is interested in the little 125mm (5 inch) driver, but has limited mounting room behind. Seems like the "hammer" method has been covered, as well as the "heat" method.Let's discuss the "glue dissolving" method
Here's my thought : pour some kind of glue dissolver (acetone, paint thinner, ??) into a pan, maybe 1" deep. The depth is critical, because you want it reach the glue joint to be disolved ... but no higher. Then put the driver, cup and all, into the pan. I'm thinking that the dissolver won't be high enough to reach the top of the cup's outer perimeter, of course, but might just be able to seep into the joint through that hole in the bottom Know what I mean?What do you think? Any hope? If it works, it promises to be the most "gentle" technique, least likely to cause any unwanted harm. Any clue what type of dissolver would be best suited to the type of glue used?
Joined
·
2,511 Posts
Mr. Wolf,
I think that is very dangerous method...?
The fume from Acetone can weaken the glue joint else where.
And it also not good for surrounds. It actually can harden the rubber/foam.
I could be wrong, but I am pretty sure about fumes and glue joint, though..
I think that is very dangerous method...?
The fume from Acetone can weaken the glue joint else where.
And it also not good for surrounds. It actually can harden the rubber/foam.
I could be wrong, but I am pretty sure about fumes and glue joint, though..
G
Guest
·dual ... if the fumes alone are bad, then I agree But of course the fluid would never come in contact with anything other than the cup, magnets, and glue joint to be dissolved.
Maybe there's a "low fume" dissolving agent ?????
Heck it's gotta be worth an experiment. I just might give it a try ...
But of course the fluid would never come in contact with anything other than the cup, magnets, and glue joint to be dissolved.Maybe there's a "low fume" dissolving agent ?????
Heck it's gotta be worth an experiment. I just might give it a try ...
41 - 60 of 78 Posts
