[MIAaron]

I know in paint applications the fumes can be very harmful, but I don't know about adhesive applications. The fumes can be dealt with though. For a minute I was thinking something fancy like a physical barrier, for example cutting a hole in the bottom of a bucket and slipping the bucking magnet through the hole, but IIRC the bucking magnet on the rs125 has a larger diameter than the backing plate.



The more traditional method would be to use a small fan, or maybe even something like a shopvac, and just suck the fumes away. Just be sure to get a good airflow over the surface of the dissolver. You can easily check this with the smoke of a cigarette/cigar. Just don't get any kind of flame close to the dissolver as the majority are very flammable. The pole of the RS drivers isn't vented. You may get a small amount of vapor through the joints but I don't think it is enough to worry about.

The only problem I see with this is that you will have to be very careful with the depth of the dissolver. I think the thickness of the backplate on the rs125 is about an 1/8". Maybe if you had a thin rubber sheet(anything stretchable and non-pourous) that you could cut a small hole in and stretch over the bucking magnet to help seal it off?

Edit:
Jeff, YGM.

 

[Guest]

thanks for the thoughts! But I'm thinking the dissolver depth needs to attack the plate/cup, as well as the bucking magnet joint as well ... ??

hey send me an email at :

[email protected]

PM's in this forum make my computer explode

 

[kappa546]

hey send me an email at :

[email protected]

PM's in this forum make my computer explode

GAY! i've been patiently waiting for ur response to two of my pm's lol. can i send an email as well? cuz i'm gonna

 

[Guest]

kappa yes, of course ... don't know that I'll respond much quicker though

 

[MIAaron]

The bucking magnet is glued to the plate, and the shielding cup is glued to the bucking magnet. So a very very shallow pool is all that you would to work at the cup glue joint, but you would get a bit of vapor behind the cup.

Very little of the force from hammering at the cup sees the speaker. I have yet to damage one from removing the cup. The damage always comes from removing the bucking magnet, and I've only had that issue with the rs180's. And to be honest, I only had one shifted assembly. The other 2 I dropped when they were being hammered and the baskets broke. :blush:

Edit:
I resent the email to the address you listed above.

 

[capslock]

My experience with speaker magnet glue is that solvents won't dissolve the glue, just weaken the bond slightly.

As a matter of fact, most modern non-toxic glues with the exception of epoxy will absorb some water, the fumes of which are not so much of a problem. Add some detergent.

The really adventurous could experiment with a dab of alcohol, citric acid, or sodium hydroxide (dishwasher agent). Please don't combine the acid and the hydroxide, though...

 

[Guest]

acid plus hydroxide .... check Can't wait to mix them

I'm gonna have to try this asap now. Who cares about debucking at this point ... let's have some fun with chemistry !!!

 

[Thoraudio]

bah... just a little salt and heat....

 

[lightspeed]

I just debucked a couple of HiVi B3n. wOOt!
Was it easy? NO! I cranked on the bottom edge in a vice, replace the impact of the hammer with some squishing until I heard a slight pop. Then the back came off with little effort. The magnet was a different story. Not only is the HiVi magnet and driver very small (hard to hold onto) but it is glued like a bastard. All manner of hammering and chiseling and pouding was employed.
Just to reiterate what other have said: MAN that glue stinks. WOW those pieces of magnet fly off at odd angles and extremely high speed. WOW is a magnet hard. I ended up taking the last third off with a grinder. Havent tried them yet, but I believe they should work fine. Dont really ever want to do that again.

 

[Excelsior]

I have an easier trick to offer: use your stove.

Wrap the basket in aluminum foil. Place the driver's back side on an electric stove (Ceran, plain steel or induction should work fine). Apply full power (setting 9, usually) for maybe half a minute. Turn down to maybe 5 (on my stove, this means the heater is time modulated, going fully on for a few seconds every half minute). Let it sit for about 2 minutes (enough for the heat to travel to the glue joint but not to the spider).

But lower side of bucking cup in vise and pull on basket. If it does not come off, let cool completely and then use longer heating time (5 min?). The bucking magnet can be removed as whole in the same way.

I did this on an Audax AM170G8, and as I had heated for about 10 min., the bucking magnet came off without reheating. Looking at your pics, the Dayton seems to use even less glue, and probably Epoxy or even PVA based glue.


I have even used this technique to successfully remove the back plate including phase plug (on a Peerless HDS) without damaging the VC.

The temperature can be "adjusted" by the soak time on the heater. Most European drivers manufactured until the late 90s use PU or CA glue which needs about 200°C and is a bit smelly. Newer drivers use Epoxy or even water based stuff, which softens below. Chinese and Taiwanese drivers still use nasty stuff, so I am surprised the Dayton seems to use more harmless glues.

I would not recommend that at all.. too much heat and you can permanently demagnetize the ferrite magnets or worse, permanently weaken the adhesives that attach the coil to the former

Also any type of irregular heating could easily cause "demagnetized" spots in the permanent magnet

 

[cotdt]

yeah removing that hivi 3BN bucking magnet is a *****. but the idea is not to heat it, but to freeze it. Freezing it makes the resinous glue very brittle and the simple shock from a hammer will shatter the glue. Freezer works fine, but supercold freezers or dry ice works even better since the colder the more brittle.

 

[matdotcom2000]

yeah removing that hivi 3BN bucking magnet is a *****. but the idea is not to heat it, but to freeze it. Freezing it makes the resinous glue very brittle and the simple shock from a hammer will shatter the glue. Freezer works fine, but supercold freezers or dry ice works even better since the colder the more brittle.

Are you sure this will work?

 

[chad]

lot of these guys are long gone.

 

[alachua]

lot of these guys are long gone.

I would disagree. The thread is 5 years old, of the 21 people in the thread with more than 100 posts, 12 of them have been logged in over the past 3 months. Not exactly a huge rate of attrition for a niche forum dedicated to a niche hobby that is shrinking as a whole and dependent on disposable income. I'm sure in that time the forum has picked up some quality members (bikinpunk signed up after the last post in this thread prior to today for example).

Or, maybe you are onto the new craze in car audio? Are old school posters the new old school power amps? :laugh:

 

[chad]

bigass difference between logging in and participating

 

[roseda91]

Nice thread

 

[rape_ape]

Both heat and impact destroys magnets.

 

[chad]

Both heat and impact destroys magnets.

that's why they came out with a non shielded one YEARS AGO...

But that being said, yeah car doors.