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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Not sure if anyone ever checks these links:

http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum/showthread.php?t=5

But here ya go:

http://www.mfk-projects.com/dayton_rs.htm

And for the lazy here is a summary:

"
The RS drivers are not perfect but they are pretty good for the money. There are a lot of distortion components that are -50 and -60 db down or better where the fundamental is above about 100 Hz at least. Below 100 Hz -40 db is more typical but that is still a very good result for lower frequency where the cone excursion is higher. These results are not $30 ~ $40 driver territory. This is $100+ driver territory. These drivers look great and measure great. Just listening to them on the tone generator they sound very pure so I have to think they will sound good on music. I'm planning to build several projects using these including a low cost dipole. I'm also planning a number of conventional box speakers. For the money, these drivers are going to be really hard to beat. Dayton really out did themselves this time. Way to go guys.

It should be mentioned that any rules of thumb you may have about cost of associated drivers will be skewed by these. If like me, you would normally choose a $20 tweeter to go with a $30 mid-bass you will end up with a quality mismatch. Until an "RS" tweeter is introduced that can keep up with these you're going to want to spend probably double of the mid-bass to get a matching tweeter. So, the RS line is not a total solution for building an inexpensive system it's just a way of reducing the cost of a more expensive system. Hopefully an RS tweeter will arrive soon and will live up to the RS line quality to price ratio. If so then you will have the ultimate solution for a very low cost speaker with high-end performance. "
 

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cool, I was hoping you'd say something about the daytons.

I remember reading the when I first came on the site, funny I seem to undertand it a lot better know, but still need some more. like I'm still not sure how much distortion is audible distortion.

although one way to tell, is to pretend you have one speaker playing at sound level and another at 50 dbs below that. I'll see if I can test that.
 

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Well, I believe the RS tweeter lived up to the performance its RS midrange siblings are capable of... I had no trouble deciding on the switch to the RS28 Tweeter from the LPG 25nfa I currently use.

I am only a weekend away from modifying my kicks to make the Dayton RS28 fit. After listening to them on the dash, a-pillars & kicks I decided to go with them on the kicks.

It is by far one of the best tweeters I have heard ( Scan 6000 series, Dayton DC28, LPG 25nfa\26na, Morel MDT-104, Infinity Polycel, JL VR-XR, ADS 34x is series, Brax Graphic HT6, Helix HXS1 ). And better by a good margin I might add.

The best way I can describe it is that it is a metal dome with all you want out of a metal dome without the fatigue & harshness often associated with metal domes. This is probably due to the soft roll-off @ around 17khz... trust me, this is not an issue because the automobile's environment probably flattens this out...
 

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What I cant understand is why dont more people use the Dayton RS drivers?? Seems as though most have a hard on for the Seas CA18rnx when the RS is cheaper and has better performance characteristics...That being said, I have my Daytons on order from PE, and plan on doing some testing with the tweeters I have now (Vifa 26 and the LPG)everything will be run off of a spare Autotek 4 ch amp I have sitting in me office.
 

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I have the CA18's and have been seriously considering swapping them for the daytons... I think my main attraction to the CA18's is that they have a paper cone which is resistant to breakup, which is good because in my sail panel system I have to cross my mids higher than I would normally to mesh with the tweets. The last mids I had were carbon cone and just didn't work. With much less upper end response than the seas the it is questionable if the aluminum coned daytons would work in my setup. Honestly, if I had the mids/tweets in the same spot I probably would have gone for something a little different. The LPG's work out well for me because I am powering them with a little baby Zapco 25Wx2 and they do perfect with that power. Plus, high powered tweets are ear killers mounted up high.
 

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I heard the Daytons have issues when crossed over 2khz or something like that. its got a metal cone. many metal cones have issues when being crossed higher than their none metal counterparts. tweeters extending down to 2khz tend to be 4" in diameter from what I've seen.


you can see the frequency response of Seas, Dayton and some others here...

http://206.13.113.199/ncdiyaudio/mark/Testing/Woofer5/L18vRS180.htm


this is what the post looked like before....

DearS said:
I heard the Daytons have issues when crossed over 2khz or something like that. its got a metal cone. which tend to have issues when crossed to high. so a tweeter that can be crossed low is important. and those then to be a 4" wide.
 

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AzGrower said:
What I cant understand is why dont more people use the Dayton RS drivers?? Seems as though most have a hard on for the Seas CA18rnx when the RS is cheaper and has better performance characteristics...That being said, I have my Daytons on order from PE, and plan on doing some testing with the tweeters I have now (Vifa 26 and the LPG)everything will be run off of a spare Autotek 4 ch amp I have sitting in me office.
imo, those choosing the seas over the dayton in the car enviroment are doing so based on asthetics and build quality. I would readily pick the dayton over the seas in the doors but not for kicks. The dayton are just big and bulky...even with the bucket removed it still towers at about 3inches.
 

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daitrong said:
imo, those choosing the seas over the dayton in the car enviroment are doing so based on asthetics and build quality. I would readily pick the dayton over the seas in the doors but not for kicks. The dayton are just big and bulky...even with the bucket removed it still towers at about 3inches.
Is this Dayton that's being talked about 3 5/8" deep? At least that's what I think I'm seeing at PartsExpress.

What's all is involved in removing the bucket and what does it actually do? Is it just a shield for the magnet?
 

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i dont even have everything for my new system and im already planning the next 1. ive made up my mind and im getting the 7" RS's and the RS tweeters. specs look great and the price cant be beat. im not a fan of metal dome tweeters but ive read alot of great stuff about the RS tweeter. i might as well give them a try.
 

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DearS said:
I heard the Daytons have issues when crossed over 2khz or something like that. its got a metal cone. which tend to have issues when crossed to high.
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I got mine crossed at 2.2khz 12db/oct and i got no problems with break ups or anything...
I think people are forgeting about listening and passing judgement only based on other people observations...
 

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I meant to say a word of caution, and a likely fix. which is how I started, but I ended up saying something dinitive without hearing the speakers myself. but then again 2.2 khz isnt way over 2khz. anyhow, Excuse me for that, I was not aware I was being so strict. I'll fix that one.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Imho though, the 8" is the real king of the Dayton lineup. I haven't tried the 6" and 7", but the efficiency looks a bit low on those as well as the excursion compared to the Seas drivers.
 

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Bobo said:
Is this Dayton that's being talked about 3 5/8" deep? At least that's what I think I'm seeing at PartsExpress.

What's all is involved in removing the bucket and what does it actually do? Is it just a shield for the magnet?
you're correct, they're 3 5/8" with the shild. about half an inch is chopped off once the bucket is removed. I haven't A/B'd a unshielded dayton with a sheilded one but from what i heard..there isn't all that much of a difference.
 

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daitrong said:
you're correct, they're 3 5/8" with the shild. about half an inch is chopped off once the bucket is removed. I haven't A/B'd a unshielded dayton with a sheilded one but from what i heard..there isn't all that much of a difference.
Is removing the shield a very difficult or risky procedure?
 

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daitrong said:
you're correct, they're 3 5/8" with the shild. about half an inch is chopped off once the bucket is removed. I haven't A/B'd a unshielded dayton with a sheilded one but from what i heard..there isn't all that much of a difference.
There's no audible difference...
 

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cam2Xrunner said:
I can recall 3 different people who locked up the speakers from debucking.
What are these people doing to their mids? using a sledgehammer or something?

I had mine done yesterday and it took us ~6-7min to do both... Thanks to Raul... :)

Leo
 

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Bobo said:
Is removing the shield a very difficult or risky procedure?
yes, i would highly suggest wearing a breathing mask in case you mess up and hyperventilate (freak out! ) and some eye protectiong in case small chips come flying in your face. :)
 
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