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Discussion Starter #1
1) What's the mounting depth of the Dayton 7" after it has been de-bucked?

2) Is there a how-to on removing the shielding magnet (de-buck)?

3) I've read the Dayton RS180 is good up to 2k, and the LPG 25NFA is good from 3k. Would crossing them at 2500Hz be the best approach in an active setup? Higher or Lower?

The Seas drivers won't fit. So I'm hoping the Dayton is within my 3" max after removing the secondary magnet.

Thanks
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I was banned from ECA after questioning the similarities between TRU and Abyss. So I can't view any threads there.

If it's a simple copy and paste, that'd be great.

Or another site.

Thanks
 

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FocusInCali said:
I was banned from ECA after questioning the similarities between TRU and Abyss. So I can't view any threads there.
You're kidding. I never really have spent much time over there. Is there a mod with a chip on his shoulder or did you get in the middle of an e-argument?
 

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OMG they banned you for that? Yeah ECA is filled with easily impressionable fanboys (by high prices and copper paint) that have the ability to hear things that I dont think are really there. The fact that because you revealed a secret of tru you were banned should say it all and I will not speak on this matter any longer. And yes there are mods with power trips on that board :roll:
 

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sucks you got banned for that?? I was wondering about those abyss amps, shoot if I coudl get oen I try it. the build qaulity/QA cant be THAT mcuh difference :?: :?: :?: :?:


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here ya go


mtnickel said:
Hi guys. I experienced and learned a little with removing the bucking magnet on the new Dayton reference line. This is a guide on what to and what not to do.


Stage 1- first try (More work, "what not to do")
For the first driver i made it harder than it had to be.
I thought the black shield would have been glued on quite alot. I taped a line around the top part of the shield, then protected the speaker with a towel and duct tape. Then i cut off the top part of the shield with a grinder. The piece then sucked right to the magnet. Took me a while to get it off. But what also happend is the glue broke loose at the top where it meets the basket. The entire shield then came off.
Here are some pics of what happened for the first one.

Speaker Before:
http://www.sfu.ca/~mtnickel/DaytonDebucking/before.JPG

Taped edge:
http://www.sfu.ca/~mtnickel/DaytonDebucking/taped.JPG

Cutting the shield:
http://www.sfu.ca/~mtnickel/DaytonDebucking/cut.JPG


Stage 1 second try: Easy as pie
Okay, so after cutting the first one, i found the glue on the shield is not that strong at all. Give the shield several wacks with the hammer. Suggested hammering places: Directly on the bottom going down, from the side close to the bottom. Basically all around trying to break the glue loose.
Hit here: http://www.sfu.ca/~mtnickel/DaytonDebucking/hit here.JPG
So after a few wacks in the right place you'll notice the glue break loose a bit, then simply give the shield a couple tugs, maybe stick something in the hole and pry a bit, but nothing that will break the thing.
I got it off in about 30 seconds after hammering for a minute or so...and not full out hammering that will wreck anything.
heres the pics from this stage:
http://www.sfu.ca/~mtnickel/DaytonDebucking/remove 2.JPG


Stage 2:
do not cut the magnet at all...nothing will cut it... fairly hard.
All that is required is a bigish chissle and a hammer.
Hit like this: place the metal base on an edge, not the magnet as you don't want the chip the motor magnet. Place chissle at base of bucking magnet.
See photo: http://www.sfu.ca/~mtnickel/DaytonDebucking/chissling.JPG

It looks like the thing is glued down like a mother, but the glue only goes on the edge. Give it a few SOLID wacks and it should break off no problem.
here's picks of the end result:

First speaker:
http://www.sfu.ca/~mtnickel/DaytonDebucking/after.JPG
(note: i tried cutting what whatnot first, probably why it didnt' all come off in one piece. I'm sure this last bit would come off no problem)

Second speaker:
http://www.sfu.ca/~mtnickel/DaytonDebucking/after2.JPG
Beautiful :)

Now all that's left is to take the sticker off the shield and put it on the magnet...don't forget to black out the S which stands for shielding ;)
http://www.sfu.ca/~mtnickel/DaytonDebucking/sticker.JPG

And here's some more pics of new unshielded Dayton Ref:
http://www.sfu.ca/~mtnickel/DaytonDebucking/after3.JPG
http://www.sfu.ca/~mtnickel/DaytonDebucking/after all.JPG

In my next MTM cabinet (not for these drivers):
http://www.sfu.ca/~mtnickel/DaytonDebucking/in box.JPG

And here's me not looking so good after the last long late nights studying. no time for personal maintenance :p
http://www.sfu.ca/~mtnickel/DaytonDebucking/me_sporting_1 week shadow and safty goggles.JPG


BTW, the new dimensions are as follows:

Depth: 2 7/8" to the bottom of the flange
Width at base: 3 7/8"

That makes this thing much easier to fit in most cars...a lot smaller than my CSS drivers (Basket/Motor same as a koda)

Hope this helps some of you.

Mark

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Hey FocusInCali, I had the chance to read your post on ECA before it was removed. It was a great post and I would have liked to see what John Yi from TRU would have said. I am sorry it went down like it did!

In response to your inquiry about the Dayton drivers. I purchased two 7" RS drivers and attempted to remove the bucking magnet. I read the post on how to remove the magnet many times before my attempts. I was unable to remove the magnet as described in the post. What happened was the magnet kept breaking into small pieces and made a mess. I think I ended up shifting the driver's magnet on both causing the cone to be frozen, the speakers had no suspension. It was strange.

I didn't have a bench to use like the post said to use, I assumed I could just knock it off. My advice is to do it exactly as described and whack it good!
 

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FocusInCali said:
I was banned from ECA after questioning the similarities between TRU and Abyss. So I can't view any threads there.
Man that sucks how lame. I see someone pasted that here for you already.
Sorry about that.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Yeah, that info has been covered up fast on a few forums.

In the long run, I sold 3 TRU amps and now have a Zed Audio that I'm very happy with. There's a noticeable improvement. I'll have to drive over and have new pappa Eng check it out.

If I go active, I'll probably use the 4ch for the front, and get a Minilith for the sub. Or hold out for a new 6ch Leviathan.

Thanks for the de-buck info.

*Any thoughts on the crossover point for the Dayton/LPG ??
 
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I wonder if there's enough interest (from a group of crazy car audio diyer's, for example 8) ), maybe Dayton could do a small production run of the drivers without the bucking mags. I mean, how hard can it be? Just don't glue the shyt on.
 

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LOL...

I got tired of waiting... so I took a chance debucking the drivers. Man, for the price of these things... I am going to have a hard time justifying ever replacing them... :)
 

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FocusInCali said:
...and the LPG 25NFA is good from 3k. Would crossing them at 2500Hz be the best approach in an active setup? Higher or Lower?
From what i hear, the LPG's wont like that very well.

The Seas Lotus RT25S, however, will take a 2.5khz very well.

most other choices will have to be large format tweeters.

maybe you should consider the Seas G18RNX woofer with LPG tweeters.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
werewolf said:
I wonder if there's enough interest (from a group of crazy car audio diyer's, for example 8) ), maybe Dayton could do a small production run of the drivers without the bucking mags. I mean, how hard can it be? Just don't glue the shyt on.
That'd be great. I'm sure a lot of people are hesitant to take a chisel and hammer to their new speakers.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
10K2HVN said:
maybe you should consider the Seas G18RNX woofer with LPG tweeters.
I'd like to, but I have 3" max depth using a 1/2 baffle.
A thicker baffle puts the driver into the door panel.
 

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Lrg. mounting flange on tweeters....Possible to trim a bit?

I noticed that alot of the DIY tweeters have large 3-5" mounting plates. I realize that I will be limited based on the size of the magnet underneath, but is it possible to square off some of these oversized mounting flanges to reduce the width?
 
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