Dayton RS225 high frequency cutoff?

2990 Views 23 Replies 10 Participants Last post by fish, Mar 14, 2009

fish

Discussion Starter · Mar 10, 2009

I'm tetering on the idea to run a pair of RS225's in EACH door of my 03 Civic sedan in a 2-way with some ID horns. The horns I'm looking at (CD1eV.3 full) are recommended to be crossed at either 1000 or 1200 IIRC. At what point do the RS225's begin to breakup?

1 - 20 of 24 Posts

Boostedrex

· #2 · Mar 10, 2009

Looking at the graph on PE for them they have a rise in response around 1KHz that goes back down a bit until 1.5KHz. It drops off pretty fast after that though. Keep in mind those are on axis plots too.

fish

Discussion Starter · #3 · Mar 10, 2009

That's my bad not looking at the graph initially. I noticed there's two response curves on that graph... what's the other one represent?

94VG30DE

· #4 · Mar 10, 2009

I think it is off-axis response. It doesn't specify 15 deg or 30 deg off axis though.

old_skool_noma

· #5 · Mar 10, 2009

i was actualy thinking about the same speakers in my sonoma, but i was told to watch out for the high end resonance that comes with the aluminum cone, so i was thinking about using them in a 3 way with the reference 4" driver

King Nothing

· #6 · Mar 10, 2009

I dont think Im gonna use mine past 250 hz. It will be a dedicated midbass with RS100s and Kicker r19 tweeters

fish

Discussion Starter · #7 · Mar 11, 2009

King Nothing said:
I dont think Im gonna use mine past 250 hz. It will be a dedicated midbass with RS100s and Kicker r19 tweeters

I was hoping I wouldn't have to use them as midbass/sub, because all I have for processing is the 800PRS. Any suggestions on 8" midbass that can play well up to 1500hz?

SD_R/T

· #8 · Mar 11, 2009

kfish323 said:
I was hoping I wouldn't have to use them as midbass/sub, because all I have for processing is the 800PRS. Any suggestions on 8" midbass that can play well up to 1500hz?

I'm not gonna claim I know everything about every 8" out there, but I think an 8" that plays (well) up to 1500 might be tough to come by. Any possibility of maybe using a 7"?

Boostedrex

· #9 · Mar 11, 2009

If you need an 8" midbass that will play a bit higher up as well as have greater effeciency to mate up well with horns, have you considered any of the pro audio offerings? B&C, Faital Pro, 18Sound, and JBL all make KILLER 8's that will play up to 2KHz easily. Just some food for thought. The "limitation" with these is that they fall off pretty quick below 80Hz. But if you are running a good enough sub(s) then that won't be a problem anyway. My subs are LP'd at 100Hz with a 12db/oct slope and all my bass is dead center on the windshield.

fish

Discussion Starter · #10 · Mar 11, 2009

Boostedrex said:
If you need an 8" midbass that will play a bit higher up as well as have greater effeciency to mate up well with horns, have you considered any of the pro audio offerings? B&C, Faital Pro, 18Sound, and JBL all make KILLER 8's that will play up to 2KHz easily. Just some food for thought. The "limitation" with these is that they fall off pretty quick below 80Hz. But if you are running a good enough sub(s) then that won't be a problem anyway. My subs are LP'd at 100Hz with a 12db/oct slope and all my bass is dead center on the windshield.

I've looked at some of the B&C drivers, & everything looked good til I saw the QTS. All of them were around .21-.28. Maybe I'm mistaken (probably am), but I thought low Q speakers were better suited for vented enclosures.

I'm trying to get alot more midbass along with some strong bass down to 40-45hz up front, because i have rattles on/in my rear deck I just can't seem to get rid of. I did some deadening myself, THEN took it to a shop to have them try their luck. Much better, but still not satisfied. What I've discovered is if I lower subs (2 DD 1510's) x-over to 50hz the rattles almost disappear.

Boostedrex

· #11 · Mar 11, 2009

You are going to be really hard pressed to find an 8" midbass that can extend down to 50Hz with decent output and still reach high enough up to mate with your horns. Also, 8's that can extend down that low usually aren't going to have the greatest effeciency and that will only further complicate a horn install. It's one of those things where you can't have your cake and eat it too. You are going to have to decide if you want low extension or better midbass/midrange out of the 8" you choose. And if I were you, I would try to get as sensitive a driver as you can since they're mating to horns.

If it were my install, I'd go with the PA drivers and find a way to work the 50-80Hz area back into the system with tuning. The midbass impact you'll get from PA drivers are sick! But you CANNOT cross them low and expect any decent output from them.

chijioke penny

· #12 · Mar 11, 2009

JBL2118H/J but the FR is 70-7khz

kfish323 said:
I was hoping I wouldn't have to use them as midbass/sub, because all I have for processing is the 800PRS. Any suggestions on 8" midbass that can play well up to 1500hz?

Boostedrex

· #13 · Mar 11, 2009

chijioke penny said:
JBL2118H/J

MMMMMM, tasty!! And that's what I would run in my car if I could ever find a pair for a decent price. They're just so expensive!

King Nothing

· #14 · Mar 11, 2009

Are there any good pro audio offerings for around 150 a pair?

Boostedrex

· #15 · Mar 12, 2009

King Nothing said:
Are there any good pro audio offerings for around 150 a pair?

These are really nice ones. Just a bit higher than your $150, but still worth it IMHO. I have heard the neo magnet version of these and LOVED them. From what I've heard/read/discussed these are just like the neo's with a tad less excursion. Sound wise they should be identical though. IIRC FoxPro5 has used these exact drivers.

Parts Express:B&C 8PS21 8" Woofer

fish

Discussion Starter · #16 · Mar 13, 2009

Boostedrex said:
You are going to be really hard pressed to find an 8" midbass that can extend down to 50Hz with decent output and still reach high enough up to mate with your horns. Also, 8's that can extend down that low usually aren't going to have the greatest effeciency and that will only further complicate a horn install. It's one of those things where you can't have your cake and eat it too. You are going to have to decide if you want low extension or better midbass/midrange out of the 8" you choose. And if I were you, I would try to get as sensitive a driver as you can since they're mating to horns.

If it were my install, I'd go with the PA drivers and find a way to work the 50-80Hz area back into the system with tuning. The midbass impact you'll get from PA drivers are sick! But you CANNOT cross them low and expect any decent output from them.

I checked out some PA speakers at usspeakers website. There's some pretty nice looking midbass's on there. I think I might want to bump it up to 10" instead. One thing I did notice is the low QTS, should I be concerned with this in my selection?

cubdenno

· #17 · Mar 13, 2009

I am running the RS225 in a two way right now. [email protected]/oct. They sound great. My tweeters are crossed at [email protected]/oct. Remember you do not necessarily need to have the crossover points match. A lot of passives from components are under lapped.

Boostedrex

· #18 · Mar 13, 2009

kfish323 said:
I checked out some PA speakers at usspeakers website. There's some pretty nice looking midbass's on there. I think I might want to bump it up to 10" instead. One thing I did notice is the low QTS, should I be concerned with this in my selection?

Is there anyway that you could build a ported/sealed/AP pod for the midbass drivers? That would surely improve the situation quite a bit. IIRC, that 8" B&C from parts express I posted up would work beautifullly in .6 ft^3 ported tuned to 70Hz.

Or at least modeling would suggest that.

cubdenno said:
I am running the RS225 in a two way right now. [email protected]/oct. They sound great. My tweeters are crossed at [email protected]/oct. Remember you do not necessarily need to have the crossover points match. A lot of passives from components are under lapped.

Amen to that! Knowing that you can use a X-over underlap or overlap to your advantage was a foreign thought to me 2 years ago. I'm starting construction on my .75 ft^3 sealed door pods for some RS225's as soon as I get home from FL.

eficalibrator

· #19 · Mar 13, 2009

I'm using a pair of RS225's in my C6 corvette install along with a set of horns. (I have a thread in the build logs area) My plan was to start with the same low pass crossover point I used with the 6's in my previous M3 of about [email protected] I don't see why these shouldn't work fine.

elvisjer

· #20 · Mar 13, 2009

Whoa, you have your RS225s running all the way up to 1100hz?! Hmm interesting...i might have to play with thisa bit. My RS100s sound a little harsh, shrill, and NOT warm to me (which is totally normal for a metal cone) but the RS225s do indeed have a warmer flavor. Maybe ill play with some weird crossover points for fun...maybe crossing the 225s and 100s around 800ish as opposed to the approx 250hz they are at now!

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