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Discussion Starter #1
Each of my doors has ~4"x12" opening. Only problem being the surface is pretty curved. What should I use to cover the hole? Will cardboard work, assuming I'm covering it with a couple layers of Raammat?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
good tip. that would be easy to work with- and certainly cheap!
 

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I was sold on cardboard until I was made fun of relentlessly enough to try 1/4" MDF. I'll just say that cardboard was indeed a stupid idea; at least in terms of structural rigidity. Now, for simply sealing holes, it's fine. For small holes it would probably serve well. But in my car the access hole is at least 2.5x2'.

If my fiberglass skills were up to par, however, I'd have done it in fiberglass and screwed it into the door skin. Much better seal and fit.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
agreed- the holes i am dealing with are a tad too big for cardboard to be a good idea. i think the flashing idea mentioned above is a happy medium between ease of use and structure/seal. i have little to know fiberglass skills and I don't think I've got enough space to fit mdf in there. the door panels on the mercedes fit pretty tight against the door skin. i think some flashing, sealed up with silicone or something of the sort followed by a layer or two of deadener should do it well. i was quite happy with the sound of my JBL GTi midbass in the door with just deadening and clay on it- unsealed. But, now i've got everything apart in order to swap out the GTi's with Rainbow- so I figure I may as well do it up right while i'm at it.
 

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I used masking tape to make a stensile... then I traced it on the alum flashing with a perma marker... then cut it with metal cutting snips (I used the omnidirectional ones -yellow handles)...

Still haven't sealed my doors up all the way yet -BUT I have'm already to go!
 

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Discussion Starter #10
that seems like a good idea also. I think I've got ~30sf of deadener. that should be enough to seal the holes and add a second layer on the door skin. then again, flashing is cheap. might go with a deadener sandwich- something like you did, minus the foam and add flashing:D
 

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Discussion Starter #11
I used masking tape to make a stensile... then I traced it on the alum flashing with a perma marker... then cut it with metal cutting snips (I used the omnidirectional ones -yellow handles)...

Still haven't sealed my doors up all the way yet -BUT I have'm already to go!

i've got reds, greens, and yellows...pops is a sheet metal worker. i get all of his hand-me-down tools when they are no longer up to his standards:D
 

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that seems like a good idea also. I think I've got ~30sf of deadener. that should be enough to seal the holes and add a second layer on the door skin. then again, flashing is cheap. might go with a deadener sandwich- something like you did, minus the foam and add flashing:D
You will find it is really useful to do this in such a way that you can easily remove and replace the covers. This isn't the finished product - vinyl tubing on the actuator rods, etc., but you'll get the idea.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
i picked up a 14" x 10' roll of aluminum flashing from Lowes for about $7.00. i cut the pieces out, trimmed/bent them to fit perfectly, then ran a bead of silicone around the outside edge and mashed it on. while the silicone was still setting up- i started with a layer of dynamat extreme followed up with some raammat bxt. overall- i think it worked out great. it feels pretty stiff and it's not leaking air.

i also installed my deflex pads and another layer of deadener on the outter door skin.
 

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Well, I'm about to pull my doors apart again. More powerful midbass = more work to doors. I might just try sandwiching some LLP on my mdf sheet. though, the aluminum flashing seems like it might work better since it would contour to the door more easily.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
me, the two pitbulls, and my cat discovered something though.....

i decided to create my panels in the comfort of the living room. it was blazing hot outside in the garage and the girlfriend wasn't home to yell at me for making a mess in the house.....i brought the stock foam pieces inside as a template as well as the flashing, a marker, and snips. the 10' roll of flashing was just that- a roll. it was about 4" in diamter with something that looked like scotch tape holding the roll in place. as i was taking the tape off- i thought the roll might expand a little, but more or less keep its shape since it's so thin. good lord was i wrong. that [email protected] thing exploded like a coiled up spring. scared the hell out of me and the rest of the zoo that is my two pits and a cat. one of my dogs got smoked in the head with the roll of aluminum that went blazing towards him something like a red carpet rolling out. on the plus side, it was easier to work with than i had expected. i thought it was going to be something like a map that had been rolled up- impossible to keep flat.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
without a doubt, that would have been my best bet. however, the shape of the skin would have made that next to impossible. not to mention the fact that i don't think there would have been enough room for even the most thin mdf, and still fit the door panel back on.
 

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without a doubt, that would have been my best bet. however, the shape of the skin would have made that next to impossible. not to mention the fact that i don't think there would have been enough room for even the most thin mdf, and still fit the door panel back on.
I'm in the same boat. I had to cut my MDF about 3" shy of the bottom; the skin starts out with about 5" depth up top, but toward the bottom has about 4" depth (distance from skin to outer skin). So, that taper gives me all sorts of issues.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
what were the engineers thinking- building a car w/ no reguard to the fact we would come along, rip them down, then fill them full of wires, mdf, and deadener:D
 

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I've used 1/4" hardboard and plexiglass, of course in conjunction w/other noise killer materials....

I didn't go far w/the plexi use in the van though...I simply used a bead of silicone around the edges and then sealed any uneven gaps w/more. I'd typically but something over the plexi but wanted to be able to see inside the door in case the windows malfunction (common on the Grand Voyager)...

Jeremy
 
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