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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I've installed several stereos over the years, but have never wired for a relay. I installed a Pioneer AppRadio3 (SPH-DA210) which works fine. Since I mirror my Android phone as well, I'm looking to install this delay relay so my HU will stay on for up to 30 minutes (delay OFF) while I make quick stops in/out of the car and turn the car off. Can someone tell me which wires specifically get hooked up to input and output of the relay? I think I understand the input side, but not understanding the output side to HU. Any assistance is appreciated. http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItemVersion&item=251610979003&view=all&tid=1533673258015

http://i1054.photobucket.com/albums/s492/chenyao19870517/1234_zps3eecb3cb.jpg
 

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Wave Shepherd
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The link this ebay auction has ended and is no longer available to view.
The photo you attached is only somewhat helpful and while we could guess how the device works, it would be better if we had some more information about it.

If you can link to, or attach some instructions that came with that unit, we can help you out!
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Thanx for the response. Scroll down on the ebay auction for ALL the pictures and documentation for the device.

Also, the photobucket link has all the pictures as well.

The link this ebay auction has ended and is no longer available to view.
The photo you attached is only somewhat helpful and while we could guess how the device works, it would be better if we had some more information about it.

If you can link to, or attach some instructions that came with that unit, we can help you out!
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
http://i1054.photobucket.com/albums/s492/chenyao19870517/1234_zps3eecb3cb.jpg
http://i1054.photobucket.com/albums/s492/chenyao19870517/123_zps8ff6a49b.jpg
http://i1054.photobucket.com/albums/s492/chenyao19870517/1232_zps16fd0ea4.jpg
http://i1054.photobucket.com/albums/s492/chenyao19870517/1235_zpsbebef931.jpg
http://i1054.photobucket.com/albums/s492/chenyao19870517/1231_zps3904c903.jpg
http://i1054.photobucket.com/albums/s492/chenyao19870517/1236_zpsa1a1eac5.jpg

Description :

12V delay turn on or delay off module

1. With 8 time ranges selected shortest 0.1s most up to 1 hour
2. Protection against power reversal protection diode, better protection module
3. Can be accessed by a large current load (250V ac 10A or 30V dc 10A)
4. With delay adjustment potentiometer clockwise adjustment time longer


Function:

Plug On S6 ,delay turn off
Plug on S7, delay turn on
 

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You only need switched power delayed. ACin this case is i believe accessory not alternating current.
yellow from HU to ac +. DC+ to the same wire your yellow wire currently connected.
to be in a safe side I`d use test bulb or something to verify functionality before connecting HU.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
hmmmm.....interesting, but, not making sense to me. If switched power must be delayed (I agree), then wouldn't the RED wire have to be connected somehow? I really didn't think it would be this difficult to figure it out.

You only need switched power delayed. ACin this case is i believe accessory not alternating current.
yellow from HU to ac +. DC+ to the same wire your yellow wire currently connected.
to be in a safe side I`d use test bulb or something to verify functionality before connecting HU.
 

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I think you right red wire, not yellow, leave yellow as is. when you turn car on red wire firing up HU. yellow wire keep presets/clock, etc. my bad. Ground must be connected to delay as well.
 

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Maybe try this method described further below.
This is sometimes known as a ground triggered relay. People sometimes have to do this when adding accessories/add-on to car alarms. On the surface it looks like whoa why 2 positive going into the relay but that's how it works when one side drops to zero. Hopefully it works for you too. You will need to find or buy some parts (fuses, diodes, capacitor, etc).

That module/board looks like it will only hold the signal for 30 minutes each time power is applied, and then it cuts the power if we set it to 30 minutes. So... what we will do is only enable/boot this module/board when we turn off the ignition to hold that signal for 30 minutes. It'll always be on (small usage of car battery like other car devices like alarms, etc). For normal use the ignition still sends the signal to the headunit. This module/board intercepts and then hold the line for 30 minutes when we turn off the ignition/key.

Depending on some cars/vehicles it may also cut the 12V constant line when it cranks the starter (be sure to be on a look out for this if troubleshooting anything)



The fuses F1 and F2 are for protection.

The diodes D1 and D2 are required to correctly point the voltage/signal to the headunit (or amp)

The capacitor C1 is just to hold the voltage up when we turn off the ignition and that board/module is booting up. A small or medium value will work. May have to experiment with it.

Sometimes people add another flyback diode near that C1 junction area (optional, not shown on the drawing).

When we turn off the key/ignition, the DC-/F2 circuit goes low and so the module starts up and provides the signal to D1 and then the headunit for this 30 extra minutes.

When we turn on the key/ignition, the DC-/F2 circuit goes high and this module does not do anything since F2 and F1 are at the same potential/voltage. However that ignition circuit sends the voltage thru F2 to D2 and then to the headunit so that the headunit stays on for long drives.

Please experiment with this circuit on a bench/desk and only if it works then install it in the vehicle.
Have fun there!!
 

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i looked at those same little eBay units recently and decided to go with a Hella Delayed-Off 996152131 Relay instead: Amazon.com: HELLA 996152131 12 Volt 5 Pin 0-900s Delay Off Time Control Unit: Automotive

more expensive, but dead simple to use with a standard relay harness and if it ever dies you can just swap in a regular relay and still have the system work (just without delay).

haven't ordered it yet, but my understanding is it will do what you want.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Excellent. I thank you very much. Definitely makes more sense now. Is there a way to eliminate the Diodes as the seller's diagram isn't showing any add'l components (fuses, caps, diodes, etc.). Surely will put fuses as suggested.

What's the difference between the AC and DC methods?

Maybe try this method described further below.
This is sometimes known as a ground triggered relay. People sometimes have to do this when adding accessories/add-on to car alarms. On the surface it looks like whoa why 2 positive going into the relay but that's how it works when one side drops to zero. Hopefully it works for you too. You will need to find or buy some parts (fuses, diodes, capacitor, etc).

That module/board looks like it will only hold the signal for 30 minutes each time power is applied, and then it cuts the power if we set it to 30 minutes. So... what we will do is only enable/boot this module/board when we turn off the ignition to hold that signal for 30 minutes. It'll always be on (small usage of car battery like other car devices like alarms, etc). For normal use the ignition still sends the signal to the headunit. This module/board intercepts and then hold the line for 30 minutes when we turn off the ignition/key.

Depending on some cars/vehicles it may also cut the 12V constant line when it cranks the starter (be sure to be on a look out for this if troubleshooting anything)



The fuses F1 and F2 are for protection.

The diodes D1 and D2 are required to correctly point the voltage/signal to the headunit (or amp)

The capacitor C1 is just to hold the voltage up when we turn off the ignition and that board/module is booting up. A small or medium value will work. May have to experiment with it.

Sometimes people add another flyback diode near that C1 junction area (optional, not shown on the drawing).

When we turn off the key/ignition, the DC-/F2 circuit goes low and so the module starts up and provides the signal to D1 and then the headunit for this 30 extra minutes.

When we turn on the key/ignition, the DC-/F2 circuit goes high and this module does not do anything since F2 and F1 are at the same potential/voltage. However that ignition circuit sends the voltage thru F2 to D2 and then to the headunit so that the headunit stays on for long drives.

Please experiment with this circuit on a bench/desk and only if it works then install it in the vehicle.
Have fun there!!
 

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The 2 diodes are absolutely required since we have 2 "power" going in the left side. If we don't have thee diodes, it will cause a big/serious problem with the car's ignition system. Since these diodes are critical also be sure these diodes have to be installed/pointed correctly... the bar/line on the diode towards the cap/headunit. Caps are even more funny... we all mark + (positive) on the schematics but the cap manufacturer always mark - (negative) on the electrolytic caps... so be sure the - (negative) goes to ground.

(If we just have power and ground on the left side then we don't need the diodes.)

From looking at their pictures/diagrams, the DC method adds the S5 jumper. This looks like it connects the left (12V input) to the right side so that 12V shows up after the relay on the output side. If it's the AC method the left and right sides are not connected -- the S5 is open/removed and we can hook up some other AC circuit/parts (a separate DC circuit here will work just fine too since it's basically just going thru the relay).

So... out of curiosity, can you tell me what happens if we go back to basic (no extra parts, like when you first receive/tried it... just hook up 12V and ground, use DC/S5 method, and set for maybe 30 minutes or just 1 minute...? Will it just provide 12V power/signal for 1 minute and stops (and not restart)? Or what do you see there when you do this? thanks
 
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