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I have narrowed my problem down to that it has to be a wire I disconnected while removing my previous head unit. I've reversed the rcas, and tonight i reversed the speaker wires in to the amp.

I FINALLY fiddled enough with the setting to where it sounds comparable to my previous setups best.

I was thinking about selling my rear speakers and getting some midranges but then I got speaker fever and now I want to try out some hertz hsk 165's :S

It's cool trying out speakers and shit but god damn is it an expensive hobby/interest :[

Rainbow Vanadiums may or may not end up on sale soon haha
 

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Okay so my problem is solved and the rears are up and running. I will probably end up selling them sometime soon for some midrange speakers and get some custom a-pillar pods made for relocating the tweets and mounting the midranges.
 

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Mine should be here in about 12 hours depending on if USPS comes at their usual time. Want to hear a real bummer? I was looking at some previous sales of the ebay seller and I saw he sold 2 other units of this product within the past year and he accepted $750 and $800 from the "best offer" feature. That very feature was an option which I didn't try out of fear of someone else buying it first. God dammit -_- if shipping wasn't so annoying I could just return it, and buy it under a different name . (But whats done is done I suppose)
If u have any info of the seller.
Been lookin on the bay but nothing listed.
 

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If u have any info of the seller.
Been lookin on the bay but nothing listed.
Message this guy to see if he's got anything eBay My World - ehoff12179 .


On a separate note, my installer is starting my project this week with modifying my door panels to have door pods to house my front stage in better locations and also to have spots for my 4" midranges I purchased. Going to have he doors deadened also. And lastly will be going active. Apparently the door modifications will take a while due to having to wait for things to dry and set.
 

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I found that if upper midrange (2-4kHz) is bright I would use a gap, [email protected] and [email protected], between mid and tweeter (I have tweeter on pillar), to smooth out the upper midrange.
I was just happening to re-tune my car last week by playing with crossover points and tried something very similar to this (2 kHz @ 18 db / 4 kHz @ 18db )... sounded surprisingly good!
 

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I now completely dumped auto settings, not even auto TA. But I found the auto gain is useful though, so I can check it against my amp's setting to get best S/N ratio.

My current setup is all 6dB/octave. Sub at [email protected], mid [email protected], [email protected], tweeter [email protected] My car sound exceptionally harsh in 2000-4000 range (verified with individual tone) so I let the woofers roll-off and then tweeter take over, to minimize use of EQ. I align each driver by playing tones at the crossover frequency. Fun to hear the noise going around my head when increasing/decreasing length.

I have always worried that 4000/6 is a little too dangerous so I've never use it before. But several days have passed my tweeters (Dynaudio MD102) are still good. And I feel that 1st order filter actually minimizes phase change and is very smooth compared to 18 or 24. My subwoofer doesn't have a spike now around 63Hz, as it would happen if I use [email protected]

Any comment on my set up is appreciated.
 

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I was just happening to re-tune my car last week by playing with crossover points and tried something very similar to this (2 kHz @ 18 db / 4 kHz @ 18db )... sounded surprisingly good!
It's likely not the woofer is harsh on that frequenies, but the tweeter, especially if they are mounted high up on the dash. I found that crossing tweeters up high would tame the region from 2k-4k and it does. My tweeters have peak freq at 1350Hz (resonance) and roll down -3dB at 4k, then go up again. My woofers start to roll-off at around 2k and they are >10dB down at 4k. So I think my choice of slope and freq is resonable.
 

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what exactly is auto gain?

interesting slope setup
When doing auto EQ it also change the output of each channel to -1, -2, up to -24dB. You do it once, then figure out which channel they cut (ie. tweeter), then you either raise the tweeter's gain on the amp, or lower mid or sub. Then redo it until you find your output to be around -1, -2 and you can use it as your baseline. I now have my tweeter at 0dB and woofer at 0dB.

But it seems like it won't work if you have a gap.
 

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DEX-P-99RS Hook-Up Recommendations

Newbie here with little experience in terms of hook-up and installation of high-end and complex car audio systems.

I am seeking advice and recommendations on how to hook-up my new car audio system which I have purchased to place into my vintage 1988 Mercedes 560SL 2-dr roadster convertible.

I am particularly interested to learn and gain advice experienced forum members, including you professional installers on how best to "maximize" my system hook-up, principally the amps, and obtain the absolute best sound quality possible (consider its a convertible).

Here is the equipment I have purchased and are preparing to install:

1- Pioneer DEX-P99RS Stage 4 Head Unit
1- Pioneer GEX=P20HD HD Tuner Module
1- Pioneer CD-SB10 Sirius Sat Radi Module
2- Pioneer PRS-D4200F Stage 4 Amps (Bridgeable 4-channel amps)
1- Pair Focal 100KRS 4" Component, Low depth profile speakers, with crossovers and tweeters
1- Pair Focal 165 KRX2 6-3/4 Components w/crossovers and tweeters
1 - Pioneer TS-SW2501S4 Low Profile 10" Subwoofer
1 - Tsunami 5-Farad Capacitor
Streetwire 4channel RCA connecting cabling + 120ft UCT14 Streetwire

Because the vehicle is vintage (1988) and I want to maintain it near OEM condition (car has been fully restored with over $60k invested);

- Front speakers will include the L&R 4" Focals mounted into the front of the dash replacing factory OEM speakers; front L&R tweeters will be custom mounted into the windshield header moulding that runs horizontally across the top of the A-Pillar/top of windshield. (image next to the inner ends of each sun visor);

- Subwoofer will be installed in a floor well area behind the passenger seat to include fabrication of a fiberglass/MDF enclosure (all to be hidden by rear cargo deck top cover).

- Rear Speakers will be the pair of Focal 6-3/4" components wiith the woofers installed in the top side of the rear cargo deck cover and with the tweeters installed at the top edge of the vertical rear cargo area side panels near the back of the 2 front seats (hope you can envision this).

- Amps, and Capacitor will be mounted in the trunk (same location of the car's battery).

My Question:

Since I will have 2-pairs of Component speakers as well as the sub, and 2-separate 4-Channel Amps (remember the DEX-P99RS head unit features 8 separate pre-amp channels)- how should I connect the speakers and do I need a third amp for the subwoofer?

I know I can use the crossovers that come with each pair of speakers (but should want to avoid that and wire directly using each of the available channels the HU offers, besides the DEX-P99RS features indicate I can and should) If I do this - I don't think I have enough amps to connect all (4 tweeters, 4-woofers and 1-sub?)

Any recommendations will be appreciated; and some already recieved including:

- Wire front tweeters and 4 woofers independently using 4-channels
- Bridge rear component speakers (tweeter/woofer) into 2 channels of amp no 2 and the bridge subwoofer to remaining 2-channels of amp no. 2

Alternative:
Buy a 2 channel amp (3rd amp) to host the subwoofer
 

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I see 2 options:

Headunit ch1&2 --> Amp1 ch1&2 --> front tweeters
Headunit ch3&4 --> Amp1 ch3&4 --> front mids
Headunit ch5&6 --> Amp2 ch1&2 --> rear components passive (tweeters attenuated as much as possible on the passives)
Headunit ch7&8 --> Amp2 ch3&4 --> bridged subwoofer

OR

Don't use the rear-tweeters and actually create a 4-ways setup instead of 2-ways+2-ways+sub:
Headunit ch1&2 --> Amp1 ch1&2 --> front tweeters
Headunit ch3&4 --> Amp1 ch3&4 --> front mids
Headunit ch5&6 --> Amp2 ch1&2 --> rear midwoofers
Headunit ch7&8 --> Amp2 ch3&4 --> bridged subwoofer

Personally, I'd prefer the last option. This way you'll be able to cross the front mids higher, playing better and louder, and use the rear midwoofers to fill the gap between sub and mids and get some dedicated attack in the midbass-range...

You might consider getting a pair of 8" dedicated midbasswoofers instead of that rear component-set. It'll save you money (no need to buy crossovers and tweeters you won't use anyways) ànd improve midbass output (because you're using bigger midbasswoofers instead of smaller midwoofers)...

Isabelle
 

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Discussion Starter #132
Re: DEX-P-99RS Hook-Up Recommendations

I would run the front 4" off of the (2) mid channels, the front tweeters off of the (2) high channels, the rear component mids and tweeters passive off of the (2) low channels and the sub off of the (2) sub channels, bridged into one from your amplifier.
please be advised that a 4" driver will not provide much bass and will act as more of a midrange, which could be OK but in a (2) seater you will definitely get competition from the rear (2) tweeters for stage localization.
If this is the case you can run the DEX with a low pass to the rear components from the (2) low channels and cut out all of the mid / high frequency content. In other words, your rear components may want to be cut off above 400 Hz or so as to not cause stage pull to the rear.


Newbie here with little experience in terms of hook-up and installation of high-end and complex car audio systems.

I am seeking advice and recommendations on how to hook-up my new car audio system which I have purchased to place into my vintage 1988 Mercedes 560SL 2-dr roadster convertible.

I am particularly interested to learn and gain advice experienced forum members, including you professional installers on how best to "maximize" my system hook-up, principally the amps, and obtain the absolute best sound quality possible (consider its a convertible).

Here is the equipment I have purchased and are preparing to install:

1- Pioneer DEX-P99RS Stage 4 Head Unit
1- Pioneer GEX=P20HD HD Tuner Module
1- Pioneer CD-SB10 Sirius Sat Radi Module
2- Pioneer PRS-D4200F Stage 4 Amps (Bridgeable 4-channel amps)
1- Pair Focal 100KRS 4" Component, Low depth profile speakers, with crossovers and tweeters
1- Pair Focal 165 KRX2 6-3/4 Components w/crossovers and tweeters
1 - Pioneer TS-SW2501S4 Low Profile 10" Subwoofer
1 - Tsunami 5-Farad Capacitor
Streetwire 4channel RCA connecting cabling + 120ft UCT14 Streetwire

Because the vehicle is vintage (1988) and I want to maintain it near OEM condition (car has been fully restored with over $60k invested);

- Front speakers will include the L&R 4" Focals mounted into the front of the dash replacing factory OEM speakers; front L&R tweeters will be custom mounted into the windshield header moulding that runs horizontally across the top of the A-Pillar/top of windshield. (image next to the inner ends of each sun visor);

- Subwoofer will be installed in a floor well area behind the passenger seat to include fabrication of a fiberglass/MDF enclosure (all to be hidden by rear cargo deck top cover).

- Rear Speakers will be the pair of Focal 6-3/4" components wiith the woofers installed in the top side of the rear cargo deck cover and with the tweeters installed at the top edge of the vertical rear cargo area side panels near the back of the 2 front seats (hope you can envision this).

- Amps, and Capacitor will be mounted in the trunk (same location of the car's battery).

My Question:

Since I will have 2-pairs of Component speakers as well as the sub, and 2-separate 4-Channel Amps (remember the DEX-P99RS head unit features 8 separate pre-amp channels)- how should I connect the speakers and do I need a third amp for the subwoofer?

I know I can use the crossovers that come with each pair of speakers (but should want to avoid that and wire directly using each of the available channels the HU offers, besides the DEX-P99RS features indicate I can and should) If I do this - I don't think I have enough amps to connect all (4 tweeters, 4-woofers and 1-sub?)

Any recommendations will be appreciated; and some already recieved including:

- Wire front tweeters and 4 woofers independently using 4-channels
- Bridge rear component speakers (tweeter/woofer) into 2 channels of amp no 2 and the bridge subwoofer to remaining 2-channels of amp no. 2

Alternative:
Buy a 2 channel amp (3rd amp) to host the subwoofer
 

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Re: DEX-P-99RS Hook-Up Recommendations

A-1960, appreciate you're advice/input....I am at loss given that I know nothing about the gains/low pass settings, etc....just looking for the best sound I can get....thats why I bought the Stage 4 equipment. I will likely seek out a professional installer to do the hook up...I can with confiidence install the speakers in the placements indicated...but again, will need to seek out an expert for hook ups to the amps, etc. and final tuning/setting. Know I have a lot to learn about the features of the Stage 4 HU and all the options it provides for setting speaker performance ranges, etc.

I also like your advice on the 8" midranges in the rear in lieu of the component set...but do feel I'll want the front tweeters so again, still abit stumped on the speaker arrangement. I can put anything larger than the 4"'s + tweeters up front (won't cut doors and dash / kick panels are a no go (remember its a classic/vintage car so I don't want to devalue it by doing any such mods)....i.e. cutting holes in doors, etc (besides the doors on the car can't accept anything larger than a 2-3" tweeter).



I would run the front 4" off of the (2) mid channels, the front tweeters off of the (2) high channels, the rear component mids and tweeters passive off of the (2) low channels and the sub off of the (2) sub channels, bridged into one from your amplifier.
please be advised that a 4" driver will not provide much bass and will act as more of a midrange, which could be OK but in a (2) seater you will definitely get competition from the rear (2) tweeters for stage localization.
If this is the case you can run the DEX with a low pass to the rear components from the (2) low channels and cut out all of the mid / high frequency content. In other words, your rear components may want to be cut off above 400 Hz or so as to not cause stage pull to the rear.
 

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Finally got the project of proper speaker placement started and going 3-way active to get full use out of this head-unit. Now I have to figure out a way to do the rta, as I only have a sick-ass desktop and don't feel like getting a 1-use laptop. Perhaps I'll find a old one through a friend.
 

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If you have an iPhone or iPad, see if you can get the iTestMic from Studio Six Digital. With an RTA app, you've got a killer accurate RTA. :)

Details here: iTestMic | Studio Six Digital
 

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Finally got the project of proper speaker placement started and going 3-way active to get full use out of this head-unit. Now I have to figure out a way to do the rta, as I only have a sick-ass desktop and don't feel like getting a 1-use laptop. Perhaps I'll find a old one through a friend.
Get a netbook and use it just for your car audio. $100 used and in good shape.

Chuck
 

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Get a netbook and use it just for your car audio. $100 used and in good shape.

Chuck
I'm just going to use my mother or sisters laptop. I'm currently having my door pods fiberglassed onto my door panels, but the damn Hurricane delayed shit for the time being with my installer. So currently I have no door panels or speakers until this project gets finished. Perhaps in the mean time I should read up on active crossovers
 

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Having problems with my p99rs... Started to get a lot of distortion when I switched the deck over to active. We will see what united radio has to say about it.
 

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Got a question for you guys. Im new to this forum but not high end audio gear. Anyway. I just bought the Dex p99rs. It's not installed yet, but it's on the bench being tested against my Alpine DVA 9965. Tuning both, I would say the Pioneer sounds better. My question is, many of my CD's are worn, I know but the Alpine plays them all without skipping, the DEX skips on known CD's that I know skips in cheaper factory radios. Does anyone else notice this? Thanks
 

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I have owned both of those units. Both are fantastic. With that said, I have never noticed the P99 having issues reading discs. I've had mine since 09' now, and haven't come across a disc it had issues with.
 
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