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My washing machine started giving me issues and it is 3 months out of warranty. When it comes to draining, it does not drain the water and makes a really weird clicking/gear sound. I took the back panel apart and started looking at the basic stuff for wear... everything visually looks good. I did notice the pump slightly warm after about 30 seconds of listening to the problem while visually inspecting the bottom of the washer.

I took off the drain hose in hopes of obstruction but it was clear. Removed the pump and the top housing in hopes of obstruction... clear.

I took out my MM and set it to lowest ohms and here is where I am a bit thrown off due to lack of knowledge. The pump reads 19 when touching both ends, if it gives a reading, the pump is good, right?

I also set the MM to read continuity touched the leads together to hear the sound. When I touch the pump, it gives a weak sound as if my batteries on the MM are dying. I touch anything else for continuity (drill battery, drills, L brackets, paper clip) and it gives the nice solid sound I am used to hearing.

I did order a replacement pump but just figured there are wiser men and women in this community that could give me some feedback.



Tyvm!
 

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It would be nice to fix the bad one and have it as a back up. Looks like if you try to open it, it may break being all plastic, it may have some hot melted bonding in some areas.

I hope the new one was not so much. I had to throw away an 9 year Samsung front loading washing machine, they are the worst, and the water savings is more of a sales pitch compared to top loaders, if anything the clothes come with less water after the spinning cycle, Anyway the spider arm flange is aluminum that corrodes, if caught on time no bearing needed, a lot of work, just under $200 worth of parts, I just bought a new whirlpool top loader for over $500.

And if you have a Samsung front loader over 5 years old, you may want to sell it before that spider fails.

Make sure the filter is clear also besides the drain lines.
 

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It would be nice to fix the bad one and have it as a back up. Looks like if you try to open it, it may break being all plastic, it may have some hot melted bonding in some areas.

I hope the new one was not so much. I had to throw away an 9 year Samsung front loading washing machine, they are the worst, and the water savings is more of a sales pitch compared to top loaders, if anything the clothes come with less water after the spinning cycle, Anyway the spider arm flange is aluminum that corrodes, if caught on time no bearing needed, a lot of work, just under $200 worth of parts, I just bought a new whirlpool top loader for over $500.

And if you have a Samsung front loader over 5 years old, you may want to sell it before that spider fails.

Make sure the filter is clear also besides the drain lines.
9yrs is not to bad imo and hopefully your new one will last +13yrs.

The new OEM pump was 55 on amazon and it was same day delivery (unfortunately the local shops needed a 2 day wait period).

When referring to the spider arm, is this something that needs to be replaced often, recommended in my scenario or was it a reference from your DIY fix?

This is also a whirlpool and I paid 649.99 three yrs ago. At my other place, I have an LG front loader from Costco that I purchased last year... we love it. If the whirlpool ends up being trashed, I'll look for another LG.

I am just a little confused on how to test a pump with a multimeter. Or, how one would classify a malfunctioning pump with a MM.
Tyvm!
 

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9yrs is not to bad imo and hopefully your new one will last +13yrs.

The new OEM pump was 55 on amazon and it was same day delivery (unfortunately the local shops needed a 2 day wait period).

When referring to the spider arm, is this something that needs to be replaced often, recommended in my scenario or was it a reference from your DIY fix?

This is also a whirlpool and I paid 649.99 three yrs ago. At my other place, I have an LG front loader from Costco that I purchased last year... we love it. If the whirlpool ends up being trashed, I'll look for another LG.

I am just a little confused on how to test a pump with a multimeter. Or, how one would classify a malfunctioning pump with a MM.
Tyvm!
The spider is a Samsung system from what I know. It attaches to the big drum 3 arms and connects to the motor with a long shaft. Eventually an arm cracks, burning smell due to uneven pressure on the bearing bushing.

I'm sure any other brands may go 12-15 years without major issues.

The Samsung dryer, I fixed 3-4 times, easy fixes, heat element, belt and pulley.
Washers are tough, the shocks, springs drum etc, I hope I don't have to fix my new one for along time.


LG's are good, I could have picked one, very globalist looking with electronic display push buttons and all that, many settings and almost the same price on sale, but I picked the whirlpool, it looks old school retro like from the 80's even the dials and everything, except the push start button. I thought
The dials were gonna make that GRRRRRRRR sound with every turn but that is how you can tell is new, soft dials and only 2 small lights green and another one when it is finished, once I open the the cover, no lights. No fancy things just enough cycles and temps, 7 months and going strong, wives like the LG's some neighbors told me.

I would Try to search on YouTube or internet searching, to see if the pump can be diagnosed without taking it apart, if not it would be fun to see how they are inside and what failed, a burned motor, I doubt you can buy separate from the whole unit.
 

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My LG was around 10 years old (came with the house) when its spider broke. I think most front loaders have spiders or something similar. When I called the parts house about prices, he said most new machines last 8-10 years. I am used to the old Maytags that were super simple and easy to repair. They would last 30 years. We got another LG front load for around 650 on sale but I think we should have gone with a top load
 

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Yes, all front loaders have the spider, Samsung has the lowest quality one, the others are either stainless steel or higher quality smooth aluminum.
I took it apart and looked at it myself it was just cracked and the screws holding it were so corroded 3 out of 6 I think could not come off.

And as mentioned the only advantage of the front loader is the clothes come ou with less water and take less time to dry, specially towels and other heavy clothes.
 

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Interesting how China keeps buying US companies
They had some issues with some phone models catching fire, and the washers having a low life span, and who knows what else, but not everything is bad, many companies get purchased and continue to be independent and the owners just collect the profits, things could get better and not always worse, I hope we can survive the globalist take over.
 

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I had always heard about how great front loading washers were so I bought one about 20 years ago. It lasted about 4 years before becoming prohibitively expensive to fix. Thinking I got a lemon, I bought another one, and it went out in about 4-5 years.

Then we bought a really cheap top load that was probably less than half the price of the front load and we got about 7 years out of it. Bought another cheap topload and we're on year 5-6 with no issues so far.

Considering we were told how the front loaders were just so much more reliable, and they cost 2x as much. We're done with them. They don't last longer and the savings in water are probably negligible in your monthly bill.
 

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Here is a short video, showing how the spider looks, mine looked 100% better, just one arm cracked and material starting to corrode deep in some areas.

Reading the comments, some make sense. " use only HE soap, and never more than recommended, less is better, less than 2 table spoons
Run a clean washer cycle once a month, I would every 10 days.

We use those pillow shape pods, they choose them for convenience and perhaps the several HE liquid soaps we used didn't wash the clothes well.

As with anything else, everything breaks when it's abused, overloading it , use more soap, pushing the limits. They loved softener and I had to clear the dryer exhaust pipe, the worse shit you can do is use softener, not only it fuks up certain athletic clothing material making it loose its ability to block air while staying cool but also clogs lint in areas that can make the dryer fail or cause a freaking fire. Lucky me, one was on my side and I won the softener argument, it it went in the trash.

if I lived alone, everything we replaced, most likely I would still be using, except an old fridge replaced 10 years ago that was maybe 15 plus years old at the time we moved in, the new one by the way had some issues recently and took me hours to fix and troubleshoot, lucky that no parts were needed yet.



https://youtu.be/QGGhmKknKXo


 

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Discussion Starter #11
quick update... replaced the drain pump and she started up like a champ! Thanks guys.

@Alrojoca
How does softner damage clothing? I'd love some key points to win my argument at home! Lol.

Time to google this topic :)
 

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quick update... replaced the drain pump and she started up like a champ! Thanks guys.

@Alrojoca
How does softner damage clothing? I'd love some key points to win my argument at home! Lol.

Time to google this topic :)
Glad you fixed it??
Some athletic clothing use high tech polyester fabrics, that almost fully shield you from cold wind and while you sweat it also allow breathing to keep the body dry and warm. The softener destroys the clothing ability to do that, not the fabric itself, just the chemical or whatever is involved in the fabric to shield you better while breathing to keep you dry.

The ducts get clogged with lint due to the fabric softener, check your dryer duct, if you use softener it should be checked every 6-12 months, it affects the dryer' performance and sometimes give an error for safety extreme heat issues.
 
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