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Have you tried specifically with a DDRC24? I know it is literally the same hardware as 2x4HD but the firmware upgrade apparently causes it to draw even more current than the 2x4HD:
https://www.minidsp.com/forum/hardware-support/14275-ddrc24-not-work-with-minidc-isolator
Have one running one now as we speak . No issues

I have the ddrc24 and two HDs and a ddrc22d

All of them I have there own dedicated minidc no issues no noise
Works great!

It draws such little power.

The ddrc24 and the 2x4hds when operating get warm, pretty warm almost hot but just warm. That’s normal and they all seem to get the same temp.
Thanks for clarifying. Ide rather use that than a relay and a dif DC-DC
 

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how much is too much when doing eq on my system before I put in the DDRC-24? Ive eqd each driver minimally and here is my left right response graphs, Ive separated them by 5 db so they are easier to see. hoping by adding the DDRC-24 before my helix cleans stuff up a bit. Not caring so much on the curve but how it sounds. Of course ill add my sub in the mix first.


You don’t need much

If you have a peak in a stop band , knock it down before DLC
That’s about it. Do tape measure distance on TA before DLC
And if two speakers are within 5” of taps measure distance I usually settle on the the halfway for both , you’ll get better crossover behavior after Dirac in some instances that way.

Meaning. If RF tweeter is 50” and the RF mid is 54” set both to 52.5” .
For example. And this trick is really a big deal on lower frequencies, to a tweeter it may not be a issue but a mid to midbass it would be huge.


What happens at crossover in low frequency is the wavelength is much larger than the distance between the two drivers, have odd delays can cause cancellations in the stop band (crossover interaction area where critical blending occurs ) and Dirac when it moved the sum of the phase if there not playing as one speaker , one will have cancellations in the crossover region.


But really, that’s about it. That and some trial and auditions of diffrent eq on drivers crossover regions so the after DLC has both at levels that compliment your stage.

That meaning: do the DLC and listen , if the mid to tweet sounds like one is playing louder than the other or you intentionally want one to play louder you can eq down the other beforehand and can help shape the stage

After DLCT, don’t use manual TA or manual EQ on low frequencies, it messes with the ambiance and the correction all together
The after should only need maybe some level adjustments like maybe turn left down a little to get the center stronger and good balance between left and right


Changing a little bit of levels won’t hurt much
That helps allot. I appreciate your feedback big time.
 

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Does Dirac live need network to connect. I got it all working inside my house but now I'm in the garage and can't get it to connect. Says selsvt device and never shows up.
 

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Discussion Starter #44
Does Dirac live need network to connect. I got it all working inside my house but now I'm in the garage and can't get it to connect. Says selsvt device and never shows up.


You have to be online yes

And

You have to hit “start Dirac live” from the plug in

You can’t open app it won’t find it

If you hit that from the plug in it send the app the IP address so can connect
 

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Does Dirac live need network to connect. I got it all working inside my house but now I'm in the garage and can't get it to connect. Says selsvt device and never shows up.


You have to be online yes

And

You have to hit “start Dirac live” from the plug in

You can’t open app it won’t find it

If you hit that from the plug in it send the app the IP address so can connect
Got it. I figured I needed the network to connect because I did it inside my house and worked fine. I did open it from the ddrc application. I had to tether my phone. I live in a condo and garage is pretty far away. Thanks man.

So far it sounds about like my own tune. But I know it can be better. I need to play with my curve.

Does anybody else have any curves they wanna share so I know if mine is too steep in the sub bass area?


Oh and for everyone who is worried about the minidc working. It works fine. I hooked mine up inside to test using the supplied power supply into the minidc and it worked. So after installing it in my car so far so good.
 

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For everyone who is worried about the minidc working. It works fine. I hooked mine up inside to test using the supplied power supply into the minidc and it worked. So after installing it in my car so far so good.
Good News! I must have had the ‘older’ miniDC product.
 

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I have about a hundred questions about Dirac and what the best way to get good results, but I'm gonna make a little list before I start asking.
 

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I have about a hundred questions about Dirac and what the best way to get good results, but I'm gonna make a little list before I start asking.
Honestly. Its one of those things that sounds complicated but it isn't. Just get one and dive in. You'll have the whole process figured out in a day or two tops.

Sent from my XT1710-02 using Tapatalk
 

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This is the way amps are bridged. One has reverse polarity. So when one side swings up the other swings down. In effect doubling voltage.i copied this from Wikipedia for reference.

I was thinking that bacause the ddrc 24 only puts out 2 volts.
An amp is designed to be bridged though, it’s made so it uses half the power rails voltage for each channel (min to gnd and gnd to max) and then you bridge it and the voltage swings from max to min hence getting more power

You can’t just take any signal and reverse a second signal and sum it as the signal if not done correctly will then in effect be grounded and won’t end nicely!

So no you can’t ‘bridge’ RCA’s like that, they are both grounded to the chassis so connecting them up as you describe would put the centre pin of one to the ground of the other and definitely end in tears, sorry bud ☹
 

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I have about a hundred questions about Dirac and what the best way to get good results, but I'm gonna make a little list before I start asking.
Honestly. Its one of those things that sounds complicated but it isn't. Just get one and dive in. You'll have the whole process figured out in a day or two tops.

Sent from my XT1710-02 using Tapatalk
I got one. It's in. Did 1 quick measurement and rough curve. Pretty happy w it. I just have small questions that popped up during the first tune I did. But your right. I usually try and answer all my own questions then ask advice if my thoughts are correct. I guess I'm mostly excited to talk about it.

My biggest question is I'm running it with the sub playing summed on both channels. How loud do I want my sub compared to the rest of the system while measuring. My thought was exactly where it sounds right. That's how I did it so far.
 

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Discussion Starter #51
I got one. It's in. Did 1 quick measurement and rough curve. Pretty happy w it. I just have small questions that popped up during the first tune I did. But your right. I usually try and answer all my own questions then ask advice if my thoughts are correct. I guess I'm mostly excited to talk about it.

My biggest question is I'm running it with the sub playing summed on both channels. How loud do I want my sub compared to the rest of the system while measuring. My thought was exactly where it sounds right. That's how I did it so far.


You want your sub barley turned on. So that the response is mostly flat or a tiny bit more sub like maybe 2 or 3db. After Dirac use a bass knob or gain back up the sub to where you like it. You will surly clip during measurements if it’s too loud and it will cut all your bass signal so you can’t turn it up where you like it


By having the sub just cracked so it’s even with midbass let’s it do a good measurement, than you can use a bass knob if you like more bass when appropriate
 

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I got one. It's in. Did 1 quick measurement and rough curve. Pretty happy w it. I just have small questions that popped up during the first tune I did. But your right. I usually try and answer all my own questions then ask advice if my thoughts are correct. I guess I'm mostly excited to talk about it.

My biggest question is I'm running it with the sub playing summed on both channels. How loud do I want my sub compared to the rest of the system while measuring. My thought was exactly where it sounds right. That's how I did it so far.


You want your sub barley turned on. So that the response is mostly flat or a tiny bit more sub like maybe 2 or 3db. After Dirac use a bass knob or gain back up the sub to where you like it. You will surly clip during measurements if it’s too loud and it will cut all your bass signal so you can’t turn it up where you like it


By having the sub just cracked so it’s even with midbass let’s it do a good measurement, than you can use a bass knob if you like more bass when appropriate
Got ya. I was worried it would mess w the crossover after turning it back up. But I just ran 1 more with the sub allot lower and it's pretty damn good. I'm really happy your thread talked me into buying this piece. No regrets.
 

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Discussion Starter #53
If you have a null in the 65-110hz range like most ppl do
The sub is going to be used to fill some of that null

Depending on how much sub you give it when you run DLCT will also be how much eq and stuff is put on that null.

Meaning; if you have a hole at 75hz that’s 10db deep and your crossover is at 80hz and run DLCT it’s goung to use the sub response to fill that hole

If you have the sub up quite a bit it will apply less eq to that hole
If you have the sub down it may apply a lot of eq to that hole

You have to find the spot that makes it to where the system isn’t using all its available power to fill a 10hz bandwidth null.

Or after DLCT you can make a V in the target over that hole and stop it from trying to boost too much

Or after DLCT you can go to your sub and midbass and define a peq to cut that if you only want to do it to one speaker. Like if the midbass sounds bad with that much boost but the sub is fine you can park a peq that cuts that out of the midbass only over that hole.


So a couple things to do after DLCT and before to plan your crossovers , and overall volume of the system so your not running anything into distortion
And getting the bass response you like to hear
 

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Discussion Starter #54 (Edited)
Got ya. I was worried it would mess w the crossover after turning it back up. But I just ran 1 more with the sub allot lower and it's pretty damn good. I'm really happy your thread talked me into buying this piece. No regrets.

It will move the crossover up a few hz after tuning (who cares)

The bass region is mostly minimum phase so it’s not going to have any weird timing issues.


And that’s what I mean by a little pre planning.

Get your crossovers dialed to where you like the bass at and the level of bass you like, than do DLCT and than add back the sub with gain or bass knob
It should go right back to where you had it as long as the levels are close to where you were.

A little ore planning. That’s all . Me personally (I don’t care I use a bass knob and put it where I like it it works just fine)


If you don’t use a bass knob it will be a little tinkering to get it dialed.
And if you want that crossover point to stay , by all means.
To me if I cross at 75 and it moves to 79 I could care less.

I don’t run the sub up so loud that it’s crossover is like 120 or something

You can clearly easily hear when the bass gets too loud. And if the crossover moves up a tiny bit.. either pre plan for that or don’t worry
 

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Got ya. I was worried it would mess w the crossover after turning it back up. But I just ran 1 more with the sub allot lower and it's pretty damn good. I'm really happy your thread talked me into buying this piece. No regrets.

It will move the crossover up a few hz after tuning (who cares)

The bass region is mostly minimum phase so it’s not going to have any weird timing issues.


And that’s what I mean by a little pre planning.

Get your crossovers dialed to where you like the bass at and the level of bass you like, than do DLCT and than add back the sub with gain or bass knob
It should go right back to where you had it as long as the levels are close to where you were.

A little ore planning. That’s all . Me personally (I don’t care I use a bass knob and put it where I like it it works just fine)
That's good to know. I'm gonna listen to my last run for about a day and think about what I'd like dif. For the 5 mins I listened though I was quite happy. Like you mentioned in that video though. I'm always worried when I go back out it's gonna sound like shit. I'm using couch with the smaller layout. Can't remeber what it's called.
 

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Discussion Starter #56
That's good to know. I'm gonna listen to my last run for about a day and think about what I'd like dif. For the 5 mins I listened though I was quite happy. Like you mentioned in that video though. I'm always worried when I go back out it's gonna sound like shit. I'm using couch with the smaller layout. Can't remeber what it's called.

Sofa focused is my favorite for 13 measurements

Adds 4 measurements points but works like chair
And adds two measurements to passenger seat area which is awesome while keeping all the chair measurements and adds one next to my left ear and next to glass on left side (love it ?




“Sofawide” is a two seat tune. And works decently. (Imaging sucks but eq is very good ) and that has 19 measurements
 

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That's good to know. I'm gonna listen to my last run for about a day and think about what I'd like dif. For the 5 mins I listened though I was quite happy. Like you mentioned in that video though. I'm always worried when I go back out it's gonna sound like shit. I'm using couch with the smaller layout. Can't remeber what it's called.

Sofa focused is my favorite for 13 measurements

Adds 4 measurements points but works like chair




“Sofawide” is a two seat tune. And works decently. (Imaging sucks but eq is very good ) and that has 19 measurements
Sofa focused. That's it. It seemed more reasonable than the sofa wide did. The only other person that rides w me is my 13yr old. Hes not a big critic. He is used to wearing 1 earpod. Music has 0 impact with 1 headphone in.
 

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Discussion Starter #60
Whats the best way to set the output level and mic gain? Am I looking to have it as loud as I normally listen and then set mic gain to compensate?
Mic gain at 0 or below

And output gain at about -40 or so ,

On the next screen when you take measurements you want the audio seismic graph to be about 1/2 to 3/4 full of audio signal.

You do not want itty bitty little traces of audio in that.
Make it fairly gilled up ideally.


You want the measurements to be fairly loud tho , about 95db or so
Not screaming loud but fairly loud.

After calibration on screen you put filters into go shrewd and max out the output there and leave it
 
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